I got me 3D printer, awesome!

Unless there was resistance against the turn, or does the stepper report it's position back usually?

Either way I've swapped out the Z nut for the one I printed and lubricated the rod (titter) to ensure it's moving properly.

Recalibrated the Z height and bed level tonight, and it's all ready for a print run tomorrow. Missed my window tonight as the Mrs is home and the little fella is asleep. Also thinking of relocating the printer to the garage as a result. :D
 
haha probably for the best, seen some people 12+ hour prints on the facebook group.

I have just been reading that a bit of lube goes a long way to making things a lot smoother!! :eek:
 
It's totally worth doing, even with the short z-nut bracket it still squeals a bit when you get to the lower part of the rod (damn these double entendres).

As a side point I ordered some filament from RigidInk's Amazon store. £28 delivered for 1KG of their white PLA. Looks like nice stuff, and very impressed with the overall service received. Will make sure everything is dialled in on the cheapo supplied filament before going for a big print with it.
 
So, works just got a 3d printer....I know each is different? Is there a 'general setup' in terms of printing that yields good results? It's a makerbot replicator 2x
 
Balance the print bed.
Home axis.
Print nozzle should be a sheet of paper's thickness off the bed with a small bit of resistance when pulled between them.
PLA heat to about 210, bed to 60-70.
Print.
Drink tea, observe.
Report back findings. :D
 
Ta for quick reply.

I believe it only uses ABS resin/plastic, I believe they're set to 230...print bed is 114? Lol
 
I can't comment too much on ABS from experience, that is to say I have none. :)

114 sounds quite toasty, I think I've read 80 degrees for ABS printing. Then turn it right down after the first couple of layers to prevent warping.

There's also a technique where you disolve ABS scraps in acetone and paint it on to the bed, and allow to dry. Then print on a cool bed, allowing for better adhesion. Only from what I've read though as I'm yet to try it.
 
No idea to be honest, other tech from work only delivered it yesterday.

What would the decreased bed temp potentially achieve?
 
Ok some progress. I'm only missing about 2mm worth of layers now since replacing that bracket and lubricating the threaded rod. Infill had been upped from 20 to 25% and base/top layers from 6 to 8 at 0.01mm. Still getting pillowing though.

Tomorrow night I'll tweak it a bit more and report back. Nearly there though :)
 
Dialling in nicely now.

Two part print, from left to right:

image1_zpsvdiulux7.jpg


Before Z-Nut bracket fix
After Z-Nut bracket fix
After Z-Nut bracket fix, re-level + 30% infill, and 8 base/top layers.

Still a bit light in height though, missing about 2mm off the calibration prints. 18mm instead of 20mm, 8mm instead of 10mm etc.

IMG_4863_zpsy0c9ekdz.jpg


IMG_4862_zpsiloqfxvf.jpg


IMG_4861_zps60myupch.jpg

Tomorrow I'll get those measurements taken and set the z-steps configured properly, put that to bed once and for all. :)

Really happy with the 30% infill quality, just about doubles the print time but totally worth it to see the pillowing gone.
 
Last edited:
randal said:
Dialling in nicely now.

Two part print, from left to right:

image1_zpsvdiulux7.jpg


Before Z-Nut bracket fix
After Z-Nut bracket fix
After Z-Nut bracket fix, re-level + 30% infill, and 8 base/top layers.

Still a bit light in height though, missing about 2mm off the calibration prints. 18mm instead of 20mm, 8mm instead of 10mm etc.

IMG_4863_zpsy0c9ekdz.jpg


IMG_4862_zpsiloqfxvf.jpg


IMG_4861_zps60myupch.jpg

Tomorrow I'll get those measurements taken and set the z-steps configured properly, put that to bed once and for all. :)

Really happy with the 30% infill quality, just about doubles the print time but totally worth it to see the pillowing gone.
Click to expand...

What layer height are you printing at, you quoted 0.01mm that's why to low even if that's a typo and you meant 0.1mm. 0.2mm - 0.3mm is just fine and a 3-4 top/bottom layers should be all you need.

Once you sort the steps per mm, recheck everything.

What controller does the printer use, RAMPS?

J.
 
Yep, that was a typo. Doh.

I am printing at 0.1mm layer height, shell thickness 0.8mm, bottom/top thickness 0.8mm so 8 layers.

I've upped my z-steps from 1600 to 1777.7 working on the premise that my prints were 90% of what they should be.

Calibration block heights just came out at:

40mm piece: 41.69mm
20mm piece: 19.64mm
10mm piece: 8.5mm

It is a RAMPS v1.2 controller yep. Migbot job.

I'm going to reset my z-steps back to 1600 and try slicing at the settings you recommended, will report back in a bit. Thanks for the pointers. :)
 
randal said:
Yep, that was a typo. Doh.

I am printing at 0.1mm layer height, shell thickness 0.8mm, bottom/top thickness 0.8mm so 8 layers.

I've upped my z-steps from 1600 to 1777.7 working on the premise that my prints were 90% of what they should be.

Calibration block heights just came out at:

40mm piece: 41.69mm
20mm piece: 19.64mm
10mm piece: 8.5mm

It is a RAMPS v1.2 controller yep. Migbot job.

I'm going to reset my z-steps back to 1600 and try slicing at the settings you recommended, will report back in a bit. Thanks for the pointers. :)
Click to expand...

Calibrate your Z, correctly guessing won't help :-), check out this page for some calculators http://prusaprinters.org/calculator/

Also calibrate your E steps to, with this guide

J.
 
Will do, you're right. :)

Looking at those numbers above, it would seem to suggest inconsistent movement at differing Z heights? I'm not convinced I've got even movement which would suggest either the frame isn't square, or there's movement in the frame?
 
J - cracked it. Z steps were right, problem was caused by movement in the frame when the Z axis got to a certain height. Have reinforced the frame, and now prints are coming out as they should. :) More to follow!
 
silversurfer said:
Thats nuts, something small and quite humble like that is what I expect to change the world more then the bigger stuff. Im amazed if it is that simple and works
Click to expand...

BACKED, lol. I have a 3D printing problem :-).

The tech is already out there but uses a standalone LCD screen rather than a phone's screen.

J.
 
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