I got me 3D printer, awesome!

It's so I can tune the Z offset easier with each print, trying to get the first layer spot on without constantly winding the sensor up and down. Unless there's a better way? :)
 
M212 didn't do it for me, but M206/M500 did by writing to the EEPROM. Less than ideal, but at least I have a potential workaround for now.

However, I think the more pressing issue is working out why my home values are all over the place. My current understanding isn't much better. :D

When I auto home the read out on the LCD gives me:

X: 80
Y: 100
Z: 1.82

Y I get, it's dead in the middle of the Y plane (200x200 print area). Happy days.

X is off to the left looking at the printer, so something is offsetting it 20mm. Just had a quick look through my Marlin config and I can't see anything that would offset -20mm off home apart from the Z probe location points. But that shouldn't have a bearing on the X home position should it?

Looking through my configuration.h I can see I've got my "Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER" value (in the auto levelling section) set to -.82, and I had an M206 Z1 committed to EEPROM at the time which I assume gives me my 1.82?

M501 gives me X0 Y0 Z1 (Z set by myself during testing).

I'm not ashamed to admit that I really don't understand what's going on!
 
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I had a nightmare trying to get auto levelling working as well, I ended up changing the marlin firmware to Marlin 1.1 RC6(BugFix) from the facebook group and following the rather well written instructions provided .. all worked fine!
 
That's what I'm running. :( I think I followed that guide too (the PDF).

I'm going to sit down with it tonight and start investigating it properly. First port is to change that lose offset values to see what bearing they have on the home values. From there I should be able to tune. I hope.

Really want to get my head around this before the 2nd Z stepper parts arrive.

In the back of my mind I'm considering building a D-Bot too, but I'll need PETG for the parts. And a working Tevo!
 
you shouldnt need to set an offet in the gcde then, as the offset is written to the eeprom from your setup :)

Once it works you will just sit back in bliss ... no more levelling!

I dont even have springs for mey bed now, replaced them with 15mm spacers.
 
Agreed, seems to be the way to go!

How did you get your Y carriage level? The supplied instructions say to use a plastic spacer and a washer, which puts it about 2mm out of whack. I've used a 5mm nut and a washer to balance out the adjustable nut on the other side but it's not perfect so am using the bed level to balance it out. :-/
 
Well I have a linear rail now, but the solution is the same.

I just removed the springs, and put a chrome spacer in between the heated and the y mount and then fastened them with a screw as normal.

Without the variance of the springs it seems more level from the start, and then with the sensor to take care of the rest it just works :)
 
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Pics. :)

Well after much fettling of Marlin, compiling and uploading this evening I can say with almost absolute certainty that the "Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER" value in the FW does Jack for nozzle start height during print... I went +/- 2mm at one point and nothing.

So I guess I'm down to M851/M500 trial and error to get the Z offset EEPROM values in using PrinterRun, job for tomorrow night but it was good to get my head around the finer points of Marlin tonight.
 
In work so cant take any, but I do already have this one :)

IMG_1661.JPG


I used these as a spacer (12mm apparently).

I have the following in my config.h file and it works! :

#define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 40 // X offset: -left +right [of the nozzle]
#define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -18 // Y offset: -front +behind [the nozzle]
#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -2.5 // Z offset: -below +above [the nozzle]
Click to expand...
 
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Awesome looking setup, nice to see it close up. That linear rail looks great too, much better than the stock one.

Have you got an STL for that probe holder? Looks infinitely sturdier than the one on the FB group. Cheers!
 
Iirc this firmware allows you to go negative on your z axis, so you do a g28 to home the axis, then using Pronterface or something lower your Z axis until you have the nozzle at the correct level (scraping the paper), then read your Z value back and set it as your offset in configuration.h.

Upload, do M502 then M500 to update the eeprom.
 
randal said:
Awesome looking setup, nice to see it close up. That linear rail looks great too, much better than the stock one.

Have you got an STL for that probe holder? Looks infinitely sturdier than the one on the FB group. Cheers!
Click to expand...

Stupidly I never saved the stl after making from another part I got from somewhere ... will take a look and see if I can find the original part again :)
 

Doesnt look like this at the mo though, its in pieces whilst I work on my wiring and new MKS Gen 1.4 board.
 
Glad you guys are having fun :)

I'm about to buy and try a E3D 1.75mm x 0.35mm Hardened Steel nozzle.
 
deuse said:
Glad you guys are having fun :)

I'm about to buy and try a E3D 1.75mm x 0.35mm Hardened Steel nozzle.
Click to expand...

Not sure about "fun" but progress being made. :)

E3D v6 is on my shopping list too so I can print PETG. :D

-

Nearly there, it's printing at the moment and so far so good. I'm printing that probe holder STL as the flex in the one I've got is part of the problem. There's slight movement in it when the X carriage drags the cable, and that's screwing with my G29 levelling. It's being printed on it's side, and at the moment I have zero banding on the flat edges which has been a while since I've seen that! Using Rigid Ink's PLA at 190/55 with a radial blower. Pics to follow.

Reckon I need to dial the Z offset in a little more to get that first layer perfect as it's a bit close at the moment but at least I'm getting good adhesion to a glass bed with no tape/glue!
 
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randal said:
Not sure about "fun" but progress being made. :)

E3D v6 is on my shopping list too so I can print PETG. :D

-

Nearly there, it's printing at the moment and so far so good. I'm printing that probe holder STL as the flex in the one I've got is part of the problem. There's slight movement in it when the X carriage drags the cable, and that's screwing with my G29 levelling. It's being printed on it's side, and at the moment I have zero banding on the flat edges which has been a while since I've seen that! Using Rigid Ink's PLA at 190/55 with a radial blower. Pics to follow.

Reckon I need to dial the Z offset in a little more to get that first layer perfect as it's a bit close at the moment but at least I'm getting good adhesion to a glass bed with no tape/glue!
Click to expand...

It's all coming together now :)
Are you going to swop the PLA parts for ABS at one point?

I've got to admit that the £10 V6 clone is doing a great job. Printing flexi filament at full speed is easy now.
 
I think I'll hold out with the PLA for now as I'm going to use the Tevo to print the D-Bot parts in PETG, then cannibalise the Tevo for the parts needed to make the D-Bot. Just about everything can be used save for the bed and the extruded alu.

Al - want me to ship it over to you for spares/Tevo mods? :D

Nice! What temps have you had it up to? Any pics of prints etc?
 
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