I got me 3D printer, awesome!

I've tried it with ground from the PSU, and ground from the Z stop socket. Both no dice. Although I'm heading out to the garage in a minute to redo the whole circuit with a fresh head on.

I was previously using the bundled inductive sensor which is wired the same way as the new capacitive sensor, so the firmware is setup correctly. I'm assuming that even if the FW wasn't setup correctly the Z axis would stop immediately because it received a signal from the probe as soon as it started to home that axis?
 
Deffo plugging in the single wire into D18 for the Z- endstop? nothing else in there?

(I think the original sensor used 5v so could just use the standard connector, as the new one needs 12v, only the sensor pin is connected, 12v + ground is from the PSU)
 
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Well M119 shows the probe open no matter what the LED says on the top of it.

Yep, it's definitely going into D18 (Z min plug, bottom pin as you're looking at the board)

Taking ground from the PSU the sensor light just flickers when there's a detection, so something isn't right there.
 
OK so if I just power the sensor from the PSU, I get 1.2v between ground and the trigger wire. That should be 0v closed and 12v open shouldn't it?
 
randal said:
OK so if I just power the sensor from the PSU, I get 1.2v between ground and the trigger wire. That should be 0v closed and 12v open shouldn't it?
Click to expand...

I would think so yes, I'll try hooking mine up temporary and see what I get.

J.
 
OK so when I power on the sensor (connected to 12v only from a RAMPS board) I get 9.9V when not detecting (LED off) and 2.2V when detecting (LED On).

Maybe the small screw on top of the sensor is to change the detected V out?

J
 
I get no discernible change when just powering the sensor. Hmm. I think it's borked.

I've pinged the seller for a replacement/refund, looks like it's back to mechanical Z stop for me for the time being.

Thanks for checking, much appreciated.
 
Shame, the increased range is useful so you can keep glass on top :(

I am just trying to design a x mount to attach to a linear rail.

What are the wire colours on yours?
 
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Aye, was looking forward to having the glass bed and auto levelling. Soon enough though.

Brown, blue and black on mine.

Ah nice, that's what I was thinking rather than have a separate mount or something attaching to the hot end. Only that Blender beat me lol.
 
I've now upgraded my printer so now I can print every filament out there.

I took this out

9520e369-fea3-4d88-a9d9-3966d3f2fae1.jpg


Two motors\hot ends\extruder and metal back plate, and replaced it with this ghetto mod.

eb16b664-ecfb-4309-9344-2c5ea7b874a5.jpg


It's a £10 V6 clone all cleaned up, with great but cheap extruder.
 
xxalxx said:
How did you get on with the sensor Randal?

Deuse, did you not use the dual nozzles?
Click to expand...



Yes it had duel nozzles but now I'm only using one. But it's so much better.
I can print flexi filament a full speed, which was my aim.

Now I want a smaller carriage and make the bed larger. How's yours going?
 
xxalxx said:
How did you get on with the sensor Randal?

Deuse, did you not use the dual nozzles?
Click to expand...

The cap sensor was diagnosed as faulty, and the replacement I ordered arrived only to find they've sent an inductive. Fortunately it reads the bed through the glass base so I'm persevering with it.

Circuit wise I had to use an additional 10k in parallel (don't ask lol) and it started working. The voltages are still out of whack, but it's working and nothing is on fire. Ended up enabling the pull-up resistor in the firmware too iirc.

Just need to tidy the wiring up and I'll be ready to print again later.
 
At least it all works in the end, I still have the same things to do! Got a new MKS Gen board ready to replace my slightly fault MKS Base board, got a linear rail to replace the x-axis, and loads of other things but seem to spend my time printing Robber Rex models to test out different filaments :D
 
Interesting. Any additional features on that board? Keep us posted on the X rail upgrade too.

My next mod is another Z lifter. I read the other night that Marlin can use the second extruder motor as an addition Z or Y motor running in sync with the existing motor. So I'm going to grab another Nema17, 8mm rod and fittings later this month and give it a whirl. I've grown weary of trying to balance the 1mm from side to side on the X because of uneven lifting!
 
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