I got me 3D printer, awesome!

I think it's the way to go, just mirror the existing bracket and you're away. I've got all the bits in my basket ready to go so I'll post them up later. Just need to find some M3 bolts and nuts for the threaded collar.

MKS board looks great too, loads of optional stuff on there.
 
Well I think I can finally post in this thread as I have this RepRap Prusa winging its way to me hopefully soon!

It should ship by next Monday, so I've spent the time reading too much and ordering a few filament samples - this thread has been very useful so thanks to everybody!

Now I'm deciding whether to remember how to use SketchUp or try some other tools. I started on TinkerCAD last night which seems pretty great for a start.
 
Griffo said:
Well I think I can finally post in this thread as I have this RepRap Prusa winging its way to me hopefully soon!

It should ship by next Monday, so I've spent the time reading too much and ordering a few filament samples - this thread has been very useful so thanks to everybody!

Now I'm deciding whether to remember how to use SketchUp or try some other tools. I started on TinkerCAD last night which seems pretty great for a start.
Click to expand...

Nice, keep us updated on it's arrival and first print :-).

J.
 
Griffo said:
......

Now I'm deciding whether to remember how to use SketchUp or try some other tools. I started on TinkerCAD last night which seems pretty great for a start.
Click to expand...

Very nice!

I like Tinkercad - its fun and easy to use, and you ca make some complex things with it.

I use onshape a lot now, but its a different beast entirely.


I need to delete my aliexpress account, its too easy to add things and buy them ....

4pcs 8mm KP08 kirksite bearing insert bearing shaft support spherical roller zinc alloy mount bearing pillow block #58-4
AU$ 9.61 X1

1pcs T8 8mm screw length 400mm picth 1mm lead 1mm trapezoidal screw with 1pcs brass copper nut #T8-1-D1-400-1
AU$ 4.70 X2

5pcs 3d printer makerbot silent radiator fan DC 3010 3cm extruder cooling fan 24V 30mm x 30mm x 10mm #1617-5
AU$ 7.96 X1

Long-distance, 3DPrinter J-head Hotend for 1.75mm/3.0mm E3D Bowden Extruder 0.2mm/0.3mm/0.4mm Nozzle with PTFE tube
AU$ 7.25 X2

ribbon cable 20 WAY Flat Color Rainbow Ribbon Cable wire Rainbow Cable 20P ribbon cable 1.27MM pitch 5meters/lot IN STOCK
AU$ 11.57 X1

Raspberry Pi 3 Model B Aluminum Heat Sink +CPU Copper Heat Sink RPI Cooling Sink support Raspberry Pi 2
AU$ 2.06 X2

Free Shipping, MK8 extruder aluminum block DIY kit, Makerbot dedicated single nozzle, extrusion head aluminum block For Reprapi3
AU$ 7.55 X1

CE certification 1pcs 4-lead Nema17 Stepper Motor 42 motor Nema 17 motor 42BYGH 1.5A (17HS4401) motor for CNC XYZ
AU$ 15.37 X2
 
I'm thinking of turning my cnc router to a 3d printer too.

How reliable is the printing process and does the head ever get blocked?
 
Griffo said:
Well I think I can finally post in this thread as I have this RepRap Prusa winging its way to me hopefully soon!

It should ship by next Monday, so I've spent the time reading too much and ordering a few filament samples - this thread has been very useful so thanks to everybody!

Now I'm deciding whether to remember how to use SketchUp or try some other tools. I started on TinkerCAD last night which seems pretty great for a start.
Click to expand...

I've found 3dsmax pretty decent, you can export straight to .STL also. Saying that you can do the same in sketchup, but I hate sketchup.
 
JanM said:
I'm thinking of turning my cnc router to a 3d printer too.

How reliable is the printing process and does the head ever get blocked?
Click to expand...

The nozzle will get blocked at some time or other. It's mostly caused by the "retract" setting in the software.

Once you have spent time setting the printer up and making sure the bed is level
you should not have many problems. My printer has Repetier and my print software is Simplify3D.

Unless your lucky get ready to throw it up the wall at some point :D
 
deuse said:
The nozzle will get blocked at some time or other. It's mostly caused by the "retract" setting in the software.

Once you have spent time setting the printer up and making sure the bed is level
you should not have many problems. My printer has Repetier and my print software is Simplify3D.

Unless your lucky get ready to throw it up the wall at some point :D
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info.

I think i'll give it a go in the next month. I've been putting it off for years but need want to do another hobby project this summer and this looks like a good
one to try.

It'll probably be too heavy to chuck at the wall but will deffo get a good kick in at some point hahaha
 
deuse said:
Unless your lucky get ready to throw it up the wall at some point :D
Click to expand...

Yep, that sums up this week nicely.

New Z probe installed. Set the bed up, auto levelling works a treat but when I send the G29 command via Cura's start gcode the G92 Z0.5 offset doesn't take and it decides to start printing 15mm above the bed. Rubbish. Code for reference:

G21
G28
G29
G92 Z0.5
G1 Z15.0 F{travel_speed}
G92 E0
G1 F200 E3
G92 E0
G1 F{travel_speed}
M117 Generating rage...
Click to expand...

I know what's causing it, it's the Z lift the gcode does to prevent the nozzle scraping on poorly levelled beds. For some reason the printer doesn't return to Z 0.5 when the print starts. Take that out and it works fine, but I end up with a thread of PLA across the bed which invariably interferes with the print or ends up globbed on the nozzle.

Marlin or Cura at fault... hmm.

Cura is driving me nuts anyway, gcode edits in Cura don't take effect until you restart the app or unplug the printer so I'm seriously tempted to give Slic3r a go next. Can't justify the cost of Simply at the moment unfortunately.
 
Last edited:
randal said:
Yep, that sums up this week nicely.

New Z probe installed. Set the bed up, auto levelling works a treat but when I send the G29 command via Cura's start gcode the G92 Z0.5 offset doesn't take and it decides to start printing 15mm above the bed. Rubbish. Code for reference:



I know what's causing it, it's the Z lift the gcode does to prevent the nozzle scraping on poorly levelled beds. For some reason the printer doesn't return to Z 0.5 when the print starts. Take that out and it works fine, but I end up with a thread of PLA across the bed which invariably interferes with the print or ends up globbed on the nozzle.

Marlin or Cura at fault... hmm.

Cura is driving me nuts anyway, gcode edits in Cura don't take effect until you restart the app or unplug the printer so I'm seriously tempted to give Slic3r a go next. Can't justify the cost of Simply at the moment unfortunately.
Click to expand...


Can you post your actually gcode file text? and your M501 output.

J.
 
Sure, the full gcode is here: http://s000.tinyupload.com/?file_id=78537504303691415513

Or the start up gcode is here:

;Basic settings: Layer height: {layer_height} Walls: {wall_thickness} Fill: {fill_density}
;Print time: {print_time}
;Filament used: {filament_amount}m {filament_weight}g
;Filament cost: {filament_cost}
;M190 S{print_bed_temperature} ;Uncomment to add your own bed temperature line
;M109 S{print_temperature} ;Uncomment to add your own temperature line
G21 ;metric values
G90 ;absolute positioning
M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode
M107 ;start with the fan off
G28 ;move X/Y to min endstops
G29 ;auto level
G92 Z1 ;Z offset
G1 Z15.0 F{travel_speed} ;move the platform down 15mm
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length
G1 F200 E3 ;extrude 3mm of feed stock
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again
G1 F{travel_speed}
;Put printing message on LCD screen
M117 Printing...
Click to expand...

Just about to head out, but I'll grab the EEPROM values when I get back and post up the results.

Thanks :)
 
I can't see anything in the Gcode, but doesn't Cura normally go from the last probe point and then with your start gcode to the raised 15mm and then slowly move across and down to the start of the print?

I can't see why you would need the G92 Z1 command?

J.
 
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