I got me 3D printer, awesome!

@bulb66 what would you consider to be one of the best self built printers for circa 250x250x250 build volume?

I keep checking out the prusa kit build but it’s a fairly big £wedge. I have an ender3 and cr10 which are good but I’d like something a bit more robust.

I can do design work and have a laser cutter and manual lathe & milling machine so I can make most things.

I remember checking out a Dbot? ages ago is that still decent?

There is an ender 3 upgrade kit that will expand the size you can print.. Teaching Tech on youtube has just done a review about 1 month ago.. Been tinkng about getting the version that will expand the X Y print size.

 
Some stuff:
{Pictures removed}

To be honest I can't really see a lot in those pictures as they are a little dark but If I was sold something as genuine and it was clearly a clone I'd be sending it back. My thoughts also are why is the heat block black? looks powder coated. Did it come assembled, as the nozzle should be so close to the block like that. Why have they put crimp terminals on the thermistor? Do they tell what thermistor it is?

Anyway just my two cents on it.
 
@bulb66 what would you consider to be one of the best self built printers for circa 250x250x250 build volume?

I keep checking out the prusa kit build but it’s a fairly big £wedge. I have an ender3 and cr10 which are good but I’d like something a bit more robust.

I can do design work and have a laser cutter and manual lathe & milling machine so I can make most things.

I remember checking out a Dbot? ages ago is that still decent?

So at the moment sourcing aluminium extrusion is impossible but to be honest I would either build a coreXY (D-Bot, HyperCube, etc) or as suggested upgrade one of your printers but source the stuff yourself it will be much cheaper than that kit and the fact the say they can't give you a flat bed is a joke.
 
So at the moment sourcing aluminium extrusion is impossible but to be honest I would either build a coreXY (D-Bot, HyperCube, etc) or as suggested upgrade one of your printers but source the stuff yourself it will be much cheaper than that kit and the fact the say they can't give you a flat bed is a joke.

It's far from impossible - I have bought a ton of extrusion in the last few weeks from various different places cnc planet have a load of the stuff and a ton of stock. If you call em up and want a good amount they will cut you a deal :)
 
It's far from impossible - I have bought a ton of extrusion in the last few weeks from various different places cnc planet have a load of the stuff and a ton of stock. If you call em up and want a good amount they will cut you a deal :)

OK, maybe not impossible.

I was out in most places I looked a few weeks ago. I see where I would purchase is showing in stock now too.
 
To be honest I can't really see a lot in those pictures as they are a little dark but If I was sold something as genuine and it was clearly a clone I'd be sending it back. My thoughts also are why is the heat block black? looks powder coated. Did it come assembled, as the nozzle should be so close to the block like that. Why have they put crimp terminals on the thermistor? Do they tell what thermistor it is?

Anyway just my two cents on it.

I was actually going to say that the Thermistor in particular looks of much better quality than anything I have played with yet, its all nicely braided in a metal braid and is of a much more significant grade cable than the 3 or so other thermistors I have been playing with. Here are a few better pics:





To answer other questions yes it came pre assembled, it does all look powder coated but that should have little to no impact on its thermal performance. The thermistor is apparently a HUA LON GX.
 
It sounds as if you’re in two minds about sending it back. If it was sold as a genuine part, I’d be a tad miffed myself. However, you seem to be quite happy with the part and how it’s been out together so why not try it out and report back? Obviously you won’t be able to send it back after using it but sometimes trying new things is half the fun!
 
If your happy with it, keep it. I'd rebuild it to set the nozzle in the correct place.

The thermistor will need to be set in the firmware which Is why I asked, googled what you said and nothing comes up about it.

**Edit**

So it appears that a HUA LON GX thermistor is a K Type thermocouple

**/Edit**

What wattage is the heater?

Got a link for it, maybe via trust if it's a competitor.
 
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If your happy with it, keep it. I'd rebuild it to set the nozzle in the correct place.

The thermistor will need to be set in the firmware which Is why I asked, googled what you said and nothing comes up about it. What wattage is the heater?

Got a link for it, maybe via trust if it's a competitor.

Many questions and of course I know nothing! The thing was bought on an auction site (yea I know) but did come from Makers Hut. I browsed to their site and I can see this kit up for £90 under the title (Titan Aero Prusa), there isn't stock now and no more info than that. Right next to it is the real one at £140 ish, I really am in two minds, over the years I have had some awesome clone stuff and some pretty shockingly bad stuff. No info on wattage etc however I can put a meter across it and see what sort of ohms it is, I will also know as I have a load meter between the supply and the load for while I am building this thing. Firmware wise "Franken Printer" is on marlin 2.0 and I have spent days messing about getting it exactly right so firmware wise I can flash it in no time at all. Ohh also - I took your advice in my build thread and have some 32bit stuff coming. I bought a SKR 1.4 turbo along with 5x 2209 and 5x5160 drivers to play with alongside all the 8bit boards I purchased. What is nice about the 1.4 is that I can configure the tft for full touch screen goodness so thanks for the heads up on that stuff.

Edit: I measured resistance and compared this against some other heaters I have and all of them show 4.5 ohms, 4.5ohms @ 12v is 30w/2.7amps. I assume these come in different standards so 30w/40w/etc. The power supply I will be using is a 40amp unit as I will be using a 150w gel heat pad (or at least I think I will as I bought quite a few different ones to test). I tested the GEL pad to also compare and that shows 1ohm resistance, 1 ohm resistance @12v is 144w/12a so it works out :) - I did also buy some beefed up Mosfets for the bed as it's pushing the boards at 150w I think, most of them are rated at 11amps on the bed and 5amps to the board.
 
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Hi guys

Has anyone used the "PLA+" filament from hobbyking? Is it OK as it seems to be the only reasonably priced roll I can find
Just looking to get some PLA to start my ender 3 pro with when I get it in a couple of weeks.
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/pla-pro...knaEaAlVLEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds&___store=en_us

Thanks

PLA+ (I am also a noob) depending on what is baked in may need a hardened nozzel. PLA + Carbon Fibre which I have a couple of rolls of does at the very least. :) Eidt: Mind you that link it just seems like a normal pla so im none the wiser!
 
PLA+ (I am also a noob) depending on what is baked in may need a hardened nozzel. PLA + Carbon Fibre which I have a couple of rolls of does at the very least. :)
Aaah OK, I see. I thought '+' was just branding.

Seems I have got in at the wrongtime - prices are much higher for material that what it was!
 
Aaah OK, I see. I thought '+' was just branding.

Seems I have got in at the wrongtime - prices are much higher for material that what it was!

In this instance it well could be. Seems the + means it has some better adhesion and strength qualities. Honestly don't take what I am saying as gospel as I don't really have a clue myself.
 
PLA+ is essentially just a modified PLA, better heat resistant, stronger etc. It doesn't have any other materials in it, so no need for a hardened steel nozzle.

With everyone printing PPE at the moment manufacturers are putting prices up and there is probably a shortage of raw PLA too.
 
Many questions and of course I know nothing! The thing was bought on an auction site (yea I know) but did come from Makers Hut. I browsed to their site and I can see this kit up for £90 under the title (Titan Aero Prusa), there isn't stock now and no more info than that. Right next to it is the real one at £140 ish, I really am in two minds, over the years I have had some awesome clone stuff and some pretty shockingly bad stuff. No info on wattage etc however I can put a meter across it and see what sort of ohms it is, I will also know as I have a load meter between the supply and the load for while I am building this thing. Firmware wise "Franken Printer" is on marlin 2.0 and I have spent days messing about getting it exactly right so firmware wise I can flash it in no time at all. Ohh also - I took your advice in my build thread and have some 32bit stuff coming. I bought a SKR 1.4 turbo along with 5x 2209 and 5x5160 drivers to play with alongside all the 8bit boards I purchased. What is nice about the 1.4 is that I can configure the tft for full touch screen goodness so thanks for the heads up on that stuff.

Edit: I measured resistance and compared this against some other heaters I have and all of them show 4.5 ohms, 4.5ohms @ 12v is 30w/2.7amps. I assume these come in different standards so 30w/40w/etc. The power supply I will be using is a 40amp unit as I will be using a 150w gel heat pad (or at least I think I will as I bought quite a few different ones to test). I tested the GEL pad to also compare and that shows 1ohm resistance, 1 ohm resistance @12v is 144w/12a so it works out :) - I did also buy some beefed up Mosfets for the bed as it's pushing the boards at 150w I think, most of them are rated at 11amps on the bed and 5amps to the board.

Just so you know if it's a K type thermocouple it will require a amp to work correctly.

The SKR boards are nice, cheap but good quality and easy to setup.

Yeah 30w sounds good, and yeah they come in a few wattages 30 & 40 being the most common. And I'm glad to hear you got a MOSFET for your heated bed it's what I do on my 12v heated beds, my Keenovo AC bed has a quality SSR.

J
 
Just so you know if it's a K type thermocouple it will require a amp to work correctly.

The SKR boards are nice, cheap but good quality and easy to setup.

Yeah 30w sounds good, and yeah they come in a few wattages 30 & 40 being the most common. And I'm glad to hear you got a MOSFET for your heated bed it's what I do on my 12v heated beds, my Keenovo AC bed has a quality SSR.

J

An amp? Got a link?
 

Ordered one (not from amazon because of the June/July Delivery). I will have a little play and see what happens. Looks like ill need to do some digging to properly set the firmware up but will wait until that SKR board and the drivers appear. I now have about 4 sets of drivers to test out :)
 
Ordered one (not from amazon because of the June/July Delivery). I will have a little play and see what happens. Looks like ill need to do some digging to properly set the firmware up but will wait until that SKR board and the drivers appear. I now have about 4 sets of drivers to test out :)

As long as the thing you purchased has a MAX6675 chip, it will be easy to set up that in the firmware you would just select it in the temp sensor settings.
 
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