Iiyama ProLite B2888UHSU-B1 28" 4K 60Hz

I have this monitor and get no flickering with the cable supplied. Flickering where, games or even on desktop etc?

I remember Matt saying to use the 2nd DP port on the back of the monitor rather than port 1. Can't remember why but just thought I'd say for those not tried it. Though I had no issues on port 1 either.

I have my monitors brightness turned down low as I don't like anywhere near stock brightness levels. Even my work monitors are very low so the flat tn look I quite like. IPS is definately much more vibrant but even with my last IPS dell I had it down low on the brightness, especially in the eves when gaming to lessen the strain on my eyes.

I'm enjoying the monitor. Sometimes on boot it will show a max res of 1440p but a reboot soon sorts it and 1440 look a bit fluffy.

Any chance of your settings you used then matt if they are not to laborious and time consuming to post? Thanks muchly.

Certainly mate. Let me see if i can improve on it at all and get the colours more accurate before i share.
 
Sorry for hijacking the thread a bit, I'm thinking of buying one of these monitors.
I've got a thread in the GPU section regarding connection a 4K monitor to a GTX 690.
http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?t=18631441

and had some good responses, however I noticed this on the spec sheet for this monitor
Connectivity: 2x HDMI (30Hz), 2x DisplayPort (60Hz), 1x DVI, 1x Analogue
so does that mean my 690 can't be used at 60 Hz ? ( as I have only one mini display port 1.2 )
p.s. I know my gpu is limited, its all about having enough dough to do everything.

Thanks in Advance
 
Can't you use a mini dp to full dp adapter? Not sure though if these are 1.2 certified but if they are 1.2 certified all you will need is the supplied dp cable
 
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I have this monitor and get no flickering with the cable supplied. Flickering where, games or even on desktop etc?

I remember Matt saying to use the 2nd DP port on the back of the monitor rather than port 1. Can't remember why but just thought I'd say for those not tried it. Though I had no issues on port 1 either.

I have my monitors brightness turned down low as I don't like anywhere near stock brightness levels. Even my work monitors are very low so the flat tn look I quite like. IPS is definately much more vibrant but even with my last IPS dell I had it down low on the brightness, especially in the eves when gaming to lessen the strain on my eyes.

I'm enjoying the monitor. Sometimes on boot it will show a max res of 1440p but a reboot soon sorts it and 1440 look a bit fluffy.

Any chance of your settings you used then matt if they are not to laborious and time consuming to post? Thanks muchly.

Hi Woodsta,

Ok this is the best I've managed to come up with so far and slightly improves on the score i posted earlier. Truth be told Im far from an expert on this, just going off what the readme says in this Spyder program. However I've got it looking as good as possible so far and the colour accuracy has improved a bit. Blue is still way off apparently but what can you do. I will keep playing around (when i get time) and if i improve on my score further, i will post and let you know.


V3KofLI.jpg



Apply these monitor settings first.

Contrast 50
Brightness 51
Colour - Normal

Then apply the ICC colour profile I've created to Windows like in the screenshots below. If you're still unsure TFT central wrote a brief guide how to do it here. It sometimes takes a bit of fiddling to get it to stick when windows boots, so watch out for that. It can be fixed by going into the advanced tab and changing system defaults i think. Sometimes you have to add it twice. Good luck!

OS27Ifr.jpg

I actually don't need to apply it as the Spyder software does it for me automatically as Windows boots. Nonetheless i thought this would help.
 
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Can't you use a mini dp to full dp adapter? Not sure though if these are 1.2 certified but if they are 1.2 certified all you will need is the supplied dp cable

yeah, but the monitor specs say 2x DisplayPort (60Hz)

Does this mean it need 2 display ports connected?
 
There is no such thing as a DP 1.2 cable, DP 1.2A or DP 1.3 cable or a certification programme for such a thing. It's just marketing rubbish for manufacturers to sell things. Only the ports have a 'standard' (or revision).

If a cable is certified officially, carries all the relevant logos and has undergone official testing by VESA then none of that is relevant to its revision. In fact the intermittent flickering issues with these monitors occur no matter how 'great' the DP cable is. That's not the only cause of this flickering.

Obviously a rubbish cable won't help, but a great one won't mean it's plain sailing either. There are plenty of excellent DP cables not listed on the VESA list of certified cables. StarTech make some good ones, for example, that will work just as well as any cable on that list.

Got a Startech one, in fact I think that's what I'm currently using. It's pants.
So was their active Mini-DP to Dual-Link DVI adaptor I used. I'm thinking Startech are best avoided.
Although I'm also ready to accept that the monitor might just be ****. Maybe it's too early to pay this much for a 4K monitor and expect it to be any good.

I have this monitor and get no flickering with the cable supplied. Flickering where, games or even on desktop etc?

I remember Matt saying to use the 2nd DP port on the back of the monitor rather than port 1. Can't remember why but just thought I'd say for those not tried it. Though I had no issues on port 1 either.

I have my monitors brightness turned down low as I don't like anywhere near stock brightness levels. Even my work monitors are very low so the flat tn look I quite like. IPS is definately much more vibrant but even with my last IPS dell I had it down low on the brightness, especially in the eves when gaming to lessen the strain on my eyes.

I'm enjoying the monitor. Sometimes on boot it will show a max res of 1440p but a reboot soon sorts it and 1440 look a bit fluffy.

Any chance of your settings you used then matt if they are not to laborious and time consuming to post? Thanks muchly.

Got 2 PCs connected, so really have to use both DisplayPorts.

Sorry for hijacking the thread a bit, I'm thinking of buying one of these monitors.
I've got a thread in the GPU section regarding connection a 4K monitor to a GTX 690.
http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?t=18631441

and had some good responses, however I noticed this on the spec sheet for this monitor
Connectivity: 2x HDMI (30Hz), 2x DisplayPort (60Hz), 1x DVI, 1x Analogue
so does that mean my 690 can't be used at 60 Hz ? ( as I have only one mini display port 1.2 )
p.s. I know my gpu is limited, its all about having enough dough to do everything.

Thanks in Advance

1 DisplayPort is all you need for 60Hz (and massive amounts of flickering, if it's anything like mine).
 
Got a Startech one, in fact I think that's what I'm currently using. It's pants.
So was their active Mini-DP to Dual-Link DVI adaptor I used. I'm thinking Startech are best avoided.
Although I'm also ready to accept that the monitor might just be ****. Maybe it's too early to pay this much for a 4K monitor and expect it to be any good.

Yes - as I said above, it's not necessarily a cable issue. StarTech cables are not pants in my experience. At least their MiniDP to DP cables aren't. I used several cables (including very expensive and thick/high gauge ones) when testing the Samsung U28D590D and none solved the occasional flickering. It didn't bother me personally but it seems an inherent issue with the 28" TN panels regardless of cable.
 
Hi Woodsta,

Ok this is the best I've managed to come up with so far and slightly improves on the score i posted earlier. Truth be told Im far from an expert on this, just going off what the readme says in this Spyder program. However I've got it looking as good as possible so far and the colour accuracy has improved a bit. Blue is still way off apparently but what can you do. I will keep playing around (when i get time) and if i improve on my score further, i will post and let you know.


V3KofLI.jpg



Apply these monitor settings first.

Thanks for this Matt.

As someone who with an infinate amount of settings and after a fiddle would normally never really know if it was better or not. I have to say that the profile you sent me was noticably better. It's lessened the backlight bleed for me or lessened the angle it's veiwable from. Certainly looks less 'tn soft' and has more IPS vividness.

Thanks very much!

Contrast 50
Brightness 51
Colour - Normal

Then apply the ICC colour profile I've created to Windows like in the screenshots below. If you're still unsure TFT central wrote a brief guide how to do it here. It sometimes takes a bit of fiddling to get it to stick when windows boots, so watch out for that. It can be fixed by going into the advanced tab and changing system defaults i think. Sometimes you have to add it twice. Good luck!

OS27Ifr.jpg

I actually don't need to apply it as the Spyder software does it for me automatically as Windows boots. Nonetheless i thought this would help.
 
Dunno how my thanks ended up IN the quote

Thanks for this Matt.

As someone who with an infinate amount of settings and after a fiddle would normally never really know if it was better or not. I have to say that the profile you sent me was noticably better. It's lessened the backlight bleed for me or lessened the angle it's veiwable from. Certainly looks less 'tn soft' and has more IPS vividness.

Thanks very much!
 
Dunno how my thanks ended up IN the quote

Thanks for this Matt.

As someone who with an infinate amount of settings and after a fiddle would normally never really know if it was better or not. I have to say that the profile you sent me was noticably better. It's lessened the backlight bleed for me or lessened the angle it's veiwable from. Certainly looks less 'tn soft' and has more IPS vividness.

Thanks very much!

Good news mate I've been hard at work and have an even better ICS colour profile for you to use. Got the colour accuracy up all round too. :cool:

Here's the new colour accuracy settings after hours spent calibrating and tweaking with Spyder.

SYV1uBH.jpg


Monitor Settings
Contrast 50
Brightness 59
Overdrive +2
Colour Normal

Colour Profile Download
https://www.sendspace.com/file/wz57wc
 
I've added the profile, set it up and set my monitor settings as mentioned yet for some reason I don't see a difference between normal settings and the profile settings, even after a reboot. Perhaps I'm doing something wrong? I followed the steps on TFT Central yet nothing. :\
 
I've added the profile, set it up and set my monitor settings as mentioned yet for some reason I don't see a difference between normal settings and the profile settings, even after a reboot. Perhaps I'm doing something wrong? I followed the steps on TFT Central yet nothing. :\

It sounds like the profile is not being applied, sometimes it can be a pain Varsh. It's hard for me to explain it.

Go to colour management, advanced, change system defaults and make sure it's applied to that second screen and it's not blank like it is in my screenshot below.

e5j4B7o.jpg



Then go to the advanced tab and make sure it's selected as the Device profile under each screen

SaUf8na.jpg


Then it should work and load automatically when windows boots. If you pay attention you should notice the colours change when things start loading in windows.
 
Well I tried it again and the same happened... nothing. But this time I thought "clich set as default" and it worked even though it said that it was set to default. But wow the colours look MUCH better now! The change in detail is amazing. I put the brightness down to 30 so that I don't feel blinded by the light so much but simply amazing stuff.

Thanks for the hard work and the profile Matt. :)
 
Well I tried it again and the same happened... nothing. But this time I thought "clich set as default" and it worked even though it said that it was set to default. But wow the colours look MUCH better now! The change in detail is amazing. I put the brightness down to 30 so that I don't feel blinded by the light so much but simply amazing stuff.

Thanks for the hard work and the profile Matt. :)

Varsh did you use the settings i suggested? It's recommended to use those otherwise the colour accuracy ratings change. Used the settings i posted of

Contrast 50
Brightness 51
Colour - Normal
 
Yes I used those settings though I had to turn the brightness down to 30 as I'm in a low level environment so having it too bright hurts my eyes. 30 seemed fine during the day and 0 at night time (which I'm running now). Thanks for the ICC though as the difference between what I had before was massive.

An annoying thing I have noticed though is that after coming back from dinner, moved the mouse and the colour settings reverted back! I had to go back to colour management, click "set as default" again for some odd reason and then set the brightness back down from 50. *shrugs*

Oh well, I'll be building a new PC soon so hopefully this problem won't happen.
 
Yes I used those settings though I had to turn the brightness down to 30 as I'm in a low level environment so having it too bright hurts my eyes. 30 seemed fine during the day and 0 at night time (which I'm running now). Thanks for the ICC though as the difference between what I had before was massive.

An annoying thing I have noticed though is that after coming back from dinner, moved the mouse and the colour settings reverted back! I had to go back to colour management, click "set as default" again for some odd reason and then set the brightness back down from 50. *shrugs*

Oh well, I'll be building a new PC soon so hopefully this problem won't happen.

Sounds like the profile might not be set as default. There are two different locations you need to set it as default, so double check. :)
 
They're definitely set at both locations as default. Had to do that trick again just now as I booted it up. I hope Microsoft sort this out in Windows 10 as it's so archaic in how it's done.
 
I too have my brightness very low as I'm light sensitive.

Whilst the colour accuracy will change it is still much better and less flat looking. It is more vibrant between the colours. It is still MUCH better. Awesome work thanks again.
 
They're definitely set at both locations as default. Had to do that trick again just now as I booted it up. I hope Microsoft sort this out in Windows 10 as it's so archaic in how it's done.

Keep fiddling, it does work eventually though maybe you have to change one and not the other. Can't remember exactly now but eventually i got it working so it was correct on boot. I wonder if your graphics card control panel could be interfering?

I too have my brightness very low as I'm light sensitive.

Whilst the colour accuracy will change it is still much better and less flat looking. It is more vibrant between the colours. It is still MUCH better. Awesome work thanks again.

Happy to help lads.

Can't wait to see what this can do on a non TN panel.
 
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