Man of Honour
You could go back through this thread and that sentiment gets echoed every couple of pages.
Start from the pitlane, stay out of trouble and pick up places as other drivers clash and drop out.
iRacing
- Thread starter Gimpymoo
- Start date
You could go back through this thread and that sentiment gets echoed every couple of pages.
Start from the pitlane, stay out of trouble and pick up places as other drivers clash and drop out.
Soldato
Exactly what I needed - thanks mate.
Muska - What is the rough total cost of your wheel then? Looking like about £6/700 from a rough total of what you put in the spreadsheet?
I was considering getting a Fanatec CSW but if an OSW can be built for similar money then I might go down that route
I was considering getting a Fanatec CSW but if an OSW can be built for similar money then I might go down that route
Soldato
I make it around that price too Howler, but don't forget that doesn't include a wheel. You're looking at least another £100 for a cheap wheel, up to £500 for a decent wheel and wheel plate.
Associate
I just updated the servo cost, it was quite a bit for shipping as its so heavy (nearly 12kg) $422 including postage.
Without a wheel mine cost me about £900, i had bought some extra things that i didnt need, and a different hub from australia etc so thats all in with import charges etc. You can save money splitting the servo shipping cost by buying 2 with someone else, not having a quick release etc. Around £750-800ish at a rough guess.
The kits Ollie offers are very good value, but I still have never heard from again, despite sending 3 emails and being originally told October week 1... He also uses a different power supply that is not as good and quite noisy, where as the one I've used is silent and would power any of the servo's out there once IONI release drive parts to make that a possibility, so there is an easy upgrade path should you want to upgrade the servo one day.
Spunkey, if you're ever seriously considering it you're welcome to try mine out.
What would a CSW v2 & rim cost at the minute? £850?
Without a wheel mine cost me about £900, i had bought some extra things that i didnt need, and a different hub from australia etc so thats all in with import charges etc. You can save money splitting the servo shipping cost by buying 2 with someone else, not having a quick release etc. Around £750-800ish at a rough guess.
The kits Ollie offers are very good value, but I still have never heard from again, despite sending 3 emails and being originally told October week 1... He also uses a different power supply that is not as good and quite noisy, where as the one I've used is silent and would power any of the servo's out there once IONI release drive parts to make that a possibility, so there is an easy upgrade path should you want to upgrade the servo one day.
Spunkey, if you're ever seriously considering it you're welcome to try mine out.
What would a CSW v2 & rim cost at the minute? £850?
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Can currently be had for £96 new if you're quick.
Soldato
I worked it out at £590 with the Black Friday Xbox rim offer.
I'll probably grab the BMW rim at a later date.
I'll probably grab the BMW rim at a later date.
Ok, I think I am in love 
Just reset my CV3 pedals, updated firmware and played Project Cars. Used the BMW Z4 and drove the West Coast full road. My god, the feeling of the tyres gripping the road coming through the pedals is amazing, you can feel the tyres lose it and then grip up. Drove the Merc GT car at the ring, and the xact same there. So much more confidence taking every corner knowing what the car is doing underneath your feet. The power of the motors isn't great, the sensitivity is the main driver here...
Bally & Magic.
If you cannot update the firmware for your pedals or wheels via the Fanatec control panel, then open up the devices control panel within the fanatec install folder, making sure you right click and open as admin. Mine would not even see my devices unless I did that.
Just reset my CV3 pedals, updated firmware and played Project Cars. Used the BMW Z4 and drove the West Coast full road. My god, the feeling of the tyres gripping the road coming through the pedals is amazing, you can feel the tyres lose it and then grip up. Drove the Merc GT car at the ring, and the xact same there. So much more confidence taking every corner knowing what the car is doing underneath your feet. The power of the motors isn't great, the sensitivity is the main driver here...
Bally & Magic.
If you cannot update the firmware for your pedals or wheels via the Fanatec control panel, then open up the devices control panel within the fanatec install folder, making sure you right click and open as admin. Mine would not even see my devices unless I did that.
Man of Honour
Glad you're enjoying the V3's, getting me all excited now.
All my Fanatec stuff arriving on Wednesday.
All my Fanatec stuff arriving on Wednesday.
Man of Honour
Will do.
Soldato
What's the fastest shifter setup for a G27?
Trying to get into consistent competative lap times in the MX5 on Okayama, currently doing 1:52s. Know where I can go faster, it's so difficult carrying momentumn in the MX5 but the shifting is confusing.
I guess the fastest method is no shift aids at all and to heel/toe. Will I be penalised for not using the H-Shifter? I cant mount it securely enough and it distracts my lap so use the paddles with clutch instead. Is that OK?
When is it OK to race? I can lap well enough, although it seems some people are lapping 1:50s with ease in most races. I've not yet entered one or a time trial as I hoped to hit the 1:50/51 mark but endless practising gets monotomous after a while especially when the times are going the wrong way.
No expectation of fighting at the front but I guess it's no harm to run races and stay out of trouble and then I at least get practice running in traffic? I am fairly savvy and mature so I can handle coming last and hopefully others will crash so I can take their places haha.
I'm hoping securing my pedals will help my lap times, carpet gripper is OK but sometimes they pivot a little so my braking force varies. I hope then I can at least be more consistent. That's a job for next week. Think just bolting them to some MDF that butts up against the wall is the way to go.
Trying to get into consistent competative lap times in the MX5 on Okayama, currently doing 1:52s. Know where I can go faster, it's so difficult carrying momentumn in the MX5 but the shifting is confusing.
I guess the fastest method is no shift aids at all and to heel/toe. Will I be penalised for not using the H-Shifter? I cant mount it securely enough and it distracts my lap so use the paddles with clutch instead. Is that OK?
When is it OK to race? I can lap well enough, although it seems some people are lapping 1:50s with ease in most races. I've not yet entered one or a time trial as I hoped to hit the 1:50/51 mark but endless practising gets monotomous after a while especially when the times are going the wrong way.
No expectation of fighting at the front but I guess it's no harm to run races and stay out of trouble and then I at least get practice running in traffic? I am fairly savvy and mature so I can handle coming last and hopefully others will crash so I can take their places haha.
I'm hoping securing my pedals will help my lap times, carpet gripper is OK but sometimes they pivot a little so my braking force varies. I hope then I can at least be more consistent. That's a job for next week. Think just bolting them to some MDF that butts up against the wall is the way to go.
Man of Honour
You'll gain more time with optimum braking and accelerating, than anything you can gain shifting quicker.
Soldato
Oh I know, especially in the MX5 as it loses momentumn so easily. I guess the real main issue for me is the pedals and securing them then.
I just want to make sure I'm not handicapping myself in any way using the sequential with the clutch. I can heel-toe etc fine done enough of that in my realy MX-5 when I had it!
Man of Honour
I think there's a few milliseconds difference between shifting correctly versus auto clutch and auto blip. But I'd say anything gained can be easily lost if you miss time the odd shift during a race.
Before I had my Obutto Revolution I fixed my pedals to some MDF and then fixed a long bolt facing upwards. Then removed one of the wheels from my office chair and hooked the chair onto the bolt where the wheel assembly was.
Before I had my Obutto Revolution I fixed my pedals to some MDF and then fixed a long bolt facing upwards. Then removed one of the wheels from my office chair and hooked the chair onto the bolt where the wheel assembly was.
Associate
I would highly getting a program called ispeed too. It's free and you can analyse your lap against any others people have set to see where you're losing the time against them. It's a great tool.
http://www.nessoft.com/ispeed/
http://www.nessoft.com/ispeed/
Associate
@Muska - great to see you have your OSW up and running, your Sam Maxwell wheel looks lovely! Liking that little LCD dash too, is it a Z1?
Trying to think if I should be asking the big red fat man Santa for anything sim related. Possibly a button box, sequential shifter or handbrake.
As I think the ffb implementation in Dirt Rally (for OSW wheels at least) is pretty poor, think I can rule out the handbrake.
Sequential shifter from DSD I like a lot. Also his button boxes. But as an iRacing newbie I hardly set up any buttons available on my Sam Maxwell, so just wondering how much really you guys use your buttons boxes?
Trying to think if I should be asking the big red fat man Santa for anything sim related. Possibly a button box, sequential shifter or handbrake.
As I think the ffb implementation in Dirt Rally (for OSW wheels at least) is pretty poor, think I can rule out the handbrake.
Sequential shifter from DSD I like a lot. Also his button boxes. But as an iRacing newbie I hardly set up any buttons available on my Sam Maxwell, so just wondering how much really you guys use your buttons boxes?
Do some time trials and make sure you can get round with little or no incidents, you can also join practice sessions that will have other cars in. Practice sessions have no bearing on your SR or iRating so you can see how you do driving with other people
If you can lap safely then enter into a race, don't expect to win. Focus on getting around safely and staying out of trouble
Man of Honour
Although I used to map most of the buttons on my T500 I basically used, pit limiter, push to talk, black box cycle up and down and that's about it. That's not to say I wouldn't buy a button box.
Associate
Thanks, I'm really pleased with it, just got to heal from an injury so I can use it properly! The dash is from sim Racing Hardware, their G-Force dash, I'm running their software but it will run Z1 too.
I've not tried Dirt Rally yet, it might get better with the next build, the Accuforce makers have that being added as a select able option in the config settings so it might work better for all DD wheels.
I find lots of uses for my DSD button box, I control all the iRacing black boxes, radio channels, FOV adjustments and I used it for BB/TC/ARB adjustment too before I got some rotaries on the wheel. If you like the DSD shifter you might like this one, http://www.manu-factory.it/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=24&Itemid=20 it costs a bit but it's definitely on my radar.
On the note of getting my OSW working I have to say I've been very lucky and had 0 issues with EMI. I've used a couple of ferrite cores on USB leads but that is all, I've not got around to adding the grounding cable that came with the HE pedals and no issues with spiking at all.
I've not tried Dirt Rally yet, it might get better with the next build, the Accuforce makers have that being added as a select able option in the config settings so it might work better for all DD wheels.
I find lots of uses for my DSD button box, I control all the iRacing black boxes, radio channels, FOV adjustments and I used it for BB/TC/ARB adjustment too before I got some rotaries on the wheel. If you like the DSD shifter you might like this one, http://www.manu-factory.it/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=24&Itemid=20 it costs a bit but it's definitely on my radar.
On the note of getting my OSW working I have to say I've been very lucky and had 0 issues with EMI. I've used a couple of ferrite cores on USB leads but that is all, I've not got around to adding the grounding cable that came with the HE pedals and no issues with spiking at all.