Just dropped a deposit on some M Power - Trackday Project Car
- Thread starter Gibbo
- Start date
No the CSL and regular M3 is identical, individual throttle bodies. The CSL has a map sensor on the air rail. The hose which runs from the air rail goes to the brake booster, so as stock M3 has no map sensor on the air rail it is just teed into the brake booster line as that is where the CSL is taking its readings from, some remove the stock air rail and replace with a CSL or modified run for a more OE look or they just tee in the map sensor, readings it gives are same.
BMW ran map sensor on CSL from factory, due to the air box deleting the maf sensor, I am now running BMW OEM CSL ECU, so need to plumb in the map sensor.
I am attaching the map sensor to a bracket now, once done will add a picture.
Please do not compare me to Turbotoaster, you insult me, because I am actually taking your advice and remove the sensor from the brake lines and locating somewhere where it won't cause damage and will look neater.
I am taking your advice and thank you for it, but do not compare me please.
Never really knew about heat cycles, learn something new everyday, can't wait for new tyres to be here.
Yes, wheels I have for slicks ready, but do not wish to run slicks until cage and harnesses are in correct positioning, just for safety really, again taking advice from others here which is well justified.
Advan V105 will be here this week and they will be my road and wet track tyres.
Jonny
Thanks for the advice, managed to secure it to a bracket already in place, it is very secure hardly any movement and is actually very hard to see, once wires are plumbed into the DME box which it is next to then to most they would never spot it:
Thanks for the advice and much happy with it now, far less cowboy!
Using the tubing that was supplied.
Thanks for the advice, managed to secure it to a bracket already in place, it is very secure hardly any movement and is actually very hard to see, once wires are plumbed into the DME box which it is next to then to most they would never spot it:
Thanks for the advice and much happy with it now, far less cowboy!
Using the tubing that was supplied.
I'm doing it as it works out much cheaper and all my mates with M3's being running slicks for years, the difference in grip over cups is rather mind boggling.
The main advantage however is cost, a set of 18" cups is now just shy of £1000 and based on 24 heat cycles will last me 3-4 track days.
Let say slicks only last me one track day, though most seem to get 2-3 with no issue, but a set cost me £100 so the savings are vast and the advantage if I have no risk of destroying my road tyres and having to drive home on illegal tyres.
Slicks are lethal on the first lap or two, very low grip but the way I drive I am very smooth and progressive so I never go out and try to set a lap time, I build speed up so I won't be pushing until 3rd or 4th lap anyway.
That looks better, wont be shook around and cause issues later with rusty pipes..... guess how I know about that one at the mo!
MAP is often used as a correction factor on Alpha N setups so its no suprise to see it feature on a calibration thats Throttle angle (Alpha) against numer of revs per min (N).
Makes sense with the ITB to need a rail or use the vac booster now. I thought it was only CSL for some reason. With a correction feature for MAP its less sensitive to pulses and fractional delays to readings than a pure speed density map ( rpm vs MAP lookup) which is why its not ideal to take from there but its certainly better than just using one cylinder reading!
Turbotoaster comparison removed. Just need a picture with Hovis BREAD to confirm theres nt toast
Finished:
Looks completely standard.
To help others I found this useful:
Mine were same colours, only difference is on the GM sensor pin 2 is the signal wire and goes into the blank pin 18 on the ECU block connector. The power and ground are as per above on pin/colours.
Hi there
Got the ECU's swapped over, pretty damn easy actually, reminded me of connecting up a modular power supply.
Bad news, I've being sold a tampered/bricked ECU, potentially un-aware by the seller as it was working, but my coolant guage goes to red on ignition and DSC remains on so tell tale sales of tampering.
Fortunately a chap called M3Carbon on M3cutters knows these ECU's inside out and has offered to open it up and unbrick it for me for a fee which is not to bad and I shall try to claim back from the seller. Because it is in this state it is not possible to talk to the ECU via OBD, so it has to be opened up.
But a further delay and cost.
Got the ECU's swapped over, pretty damn easy actually, reminded me of connecting up a modular power supply.
Bad news, I've being sold a tampered/bricked ECU, potentially un-aware by the seller as it was working, but my coolant guage goes to red on ignition and DSC remains on so tell tale sales of tampering.
Fortunately a chap called M3Carbon on M3cutters knows these ECU's inside out and has offered to open it up and unbrick it for me for a fee which is not to bad and I shall try to claim back from the seller. Because it is in this state it is not possible to talk to the ECU via OBD, so it has to be opened up.
But a further delay and cost.
Should be let me know who your booking via and when and I'll book on, will have to do it on normal road tyres as doubt have slicks organised by then but still up for it.
Big update time, only because I've being slacking with updates here:
The judder I was experiencing on up-changes in S6 in the 7000-8000rpm range, was definitely not wheelspin, jury is still out if it was wheel hop or not but I never experienced it on the stock heavier wheels with 255/40/18 and it only started on recent trackday at Anglesey. Never had an issue on previous track days, but they were admittedly warmer and I had tyres that still had rubber and were not hard plastic.
However the cups which gave me zero confidence and very little grip due to going through far to many heat cycles were also pretty knackered:
OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOPS!!
This judder I was still experiencing but I tried a clutch re-set using DIS/GT3 instead of INPA which made the gear changes rather lazy and subdued and caused slur, but after a few runs in S6 the judder seem to go away. So I am thinking maybe the last track day hot spotted the clutch or flywheel and the judder was coming from the clutch and being transmitted down the propshaft into the diff and hence the rear judder sensation. The cars clutch slur is all but gone now in S6 and the changes are going back to their usual firm but also car friendly and simply feel efficient yet firm.
After the reset I drove it around in S3 in full attack which incurred quite a bit of slur but suspect it was needed to burn any rubbish of the friction plate surfaces, I shall see how I go along and if it returns I shall refit the stock wheels to try and rule out wheel hop.
The car had a full inspection today, no lose bolts, nothing broken and the differential is very tight with only a very small amount of up and down play on the drivers side which is how the M differential should be, so all is well.
Whilst it was in the garage I had the front suspension refreshed, well new track rod ends as I've never done them in my ownership and as ECP had a great deal on Lemforder it made sense, I did lollipop bushes some months ago so now the front of the car is all brand new except the main front arms but they show no signs of wear/play. I also replaced both upper and lower steering column as at 100k miles I would expect some play, my car had no play but the steering wheel did not feel as tight as it could be.
New parts:
The old track rod ends that came out actually seemed fine, no play and the boots fine so shall keep as spare or sell. The steering column also had no play but the new parts had far higher resistance to the movement and after now driving the car the steering feels better for sure, a lot more positive on the straight ahead and feels better weighted, so a good shout to the people who mentioned it is worth doing. The Mechanic had the lower part done in like 20 minutes, the upper part took about an hour as was real fiddly but in short you can probably get away with just the lower part and as it cost so little from BMW it is well worth doing if your steering has play or feels very numb and light.
I also had the car aligned, the thrust angle in the rear was not straight ahead, only 3 minutes and camber was 30 minutes greater on one side, maybe these could have being contributing to the judder if the differential was getting upset by it though I feel my hunch on it being the clutch hot spotting is most likely more accurate.
With the new tyres, complete new suspension throughout the car and all bushes/mounts refreshed it feels bloody awesome to drive, so tight and the new tyres are nothing but impressive.
I also dropped the spare diff of with the powder coaters today to get it blasted and painted in a silly colour.
Then end of week I hope to drop it of with diff builder who shall put the 3.91 final ratio in which is REM treated which helps reduce transmission losses and noise along with a complete bearing/seal refresh. They will also check the LSD plates at same time and comment on lifespan, fingers crossed. I shall also get them to install the differential, I shall then post the ECU off for CSL conversion and I can finally flash Frank's TTFS tune to the car and enjoy how it is drive on map sensor along with a 3.91 ratio in the car. I cannot wait!
One question, will there be a running in period for the diff, if so does anyone know what it shall be and of course I shall ask the guys building it for their advice to.
The judder I was experiencing on up-changes in S6 in the 7000-8000rpm range, was definitely not wheelspin, jury is still out if it was wheel hop or not but I never experienced it on the stock heavier wheels with 255/40/18 and it only started on recent trackday at Anglesey. Never had an issue on previous track days, but they were admittedly warmer and I had tyres that still had rubber and were not hard plastic.
However the cups which gave me zero confidence and very little grip due to going through far to many heat cycles were also pretty knackered:
OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOPS!!
This judder I was still experiencing but I tried a clutch re-set using DIS/GT3 instead of INPA which made the gear changes rather lazy and subdued and caused slur, but after a few runs in S6 the judder seem to go away. So I am thinking maybe the last track day hot spotted the clutch or flywheel and the judder was coming from the clutch and being transmitted down the propshaft into the diff and hence the rear judder sensation. The cars clutch slur is all but gone now in S6 and the changes are going back to their usual firm but also car friendly and simply feel efficient yet firm.
After the reset I drove it around in S3 in full attack which incurred quite a bit of slur but suspect it was needed to burn any rubbish of the friction plate surfaces, I shall see how I go along and if it returns I shall refit the stock wheels to try and rule out wheel hop.
The car had a full inspection today, no lose bolts, nothing broken and the differential is very tight with only a very small amount of up and down play on the drivers side which is how the M differential should be, so all is well.
Whilst it was in the garage I had the front suspension refreshed, well new track rod ends as I've never done them in my ownership and as ECP had a great deal on Lemforder it made sense, I did lollipop bushes some months ago so now the front of the car is all brand new except the main front arms but they show no signs of wear/play. I also replaced both upper and lower steering column as at 100k miles I would expect some play, my car had no play but the steering wheel did not feel as tight as it could be.
New parts:
The old track rod ends that came out actually seemed fine, no play and the boots fine so shall keep as spare or sell. The steering column also had no play but the new parts had far higher resistance to the movement and after now driving the car the steering feels better for sure, a lot more positive on the straight ahead and feels better weighted, so a good shout to the people who mentioned it is worth doing. The Mechanic had the lower part done in like 20 minutes, the upper part took about an hour as was real fiddly but in short you can probably get away with just the lower part and as it cost so little from BMW it is well worth doing if your steering has play or feels very numb and light.
I also had the car aligned, the thrust angle in the rear was not straight ahead, only 3 minutes and camber was 30 minutes greater on one side, maybe these could have being contributing to the judder if the differential was getting upset by it though I feel my hunch on it being the clutch hot spotting is most likely more accurate.
With the new tyres, complete new suspension throughout the car and all bushes/mounts refreshed it feels bloody awesome to drive, so tight and the new tyres are nothing but impressive.
I also dropped the spare diff of with the powder coaters today to get it blasted and painted in a silly colour.
Then end of week I hope to drop it of with diff builder who shall put the 3.91 final ratio in which is REM treated which helps reduce transmission losses and noise along with a complete bearing/seal refresh. They will also check the LSD plates at same time and comment on lifespan, fingers crossed. I shall also get them to install the differential, I shall then post the ECU off for CSL conversion and I can finally flash Frank's TTFS tune to the car and enjoy how it is drive on map sensor along with a 3.91 ratio in the car. I cannot wait!
One question, will there be a running in period for the diff, if so does anyone know what it shall be and of course I shall ask the guys building it for their advice to.
Hi there
Purchased a spare diff in pretty much unknown condition, had it cleaned up and painted an obnoxious colour:
I have brand new cover plate to go on with three new diff mount bushes so don't worry about the paint being on cover plate as a new one will be going on.
Took the diff to Richard at Doritech today after shining recommendations and his attention to detail is great, very OCD like myself. He dismantled the diff in front of me and to both our horrors the diff had being jet washed inside, absolute idiots whoever did that. Fortunately nothing had corroded or rusted and as pretty much all the parts inside are getting replaced it will be more or less as new.
I've decided to stick with the stock M differential as for my use which is a road and track car it works well and the maintenance and longevity is good. I was very tempted by a carbonetics 1.5 way but it's an extra £1000 on the bill and comes with very high maintenance. So the LSD will be refreshed and then the diff put back together with new BMW Motorsport REM treated 3.91 ring and pinion along with all new seals and bearings.
Also awaiting the return of my converted to CSL spec ECU and steering wheel re-trim, at which point I can feedback on how car with map sensor runs and drive the car to Doritech to get the diff fitted.
That then just leaves the cage which Nick at Track-Tek informs me should be done by April.
What's next, not much, more cosmetic than game changer but a carbon roof would be nice along with looking at aero options and another set of lightweight 18x9 wheels to throw slicks on.
Purchased a spare diff in pretty much unknown condition, had it cleaned up and painted an obnoxious colour:
I have brand new cover plate to go on with three new diff mount bushes so don't worry about the paint being on cover plate as a new one will be going on.
Took the diff to Richard at Doritech today after shining recommendations and his attention to detail is great, very OCD like myself. He dismantled the diff in front of me and to both our horrors the diff had being jet washed inside, absolute idiots whoever did that. Fortunately nothing had corroded or rusted and as pretty much all the parts inside are getting replaced it will be more or less as new.
I've decided to stick with the stock M differential as for my use which is a road and track car it works well and the maintenance and longevity is good. I was very tempted by a carbonetics 1.5 way but it's an extra £1000 on the bill and comes with very high maintenance. So the LSD will be refreshed and then the diff put back together with new BMW Motorsport REM treated 3.91 ring and pinion along with all new seals and bearings.
Also awaiting the return of my converted to CSL spec ECU and steering wheel re-trim, at which point I can feedback on how car with map sensor runs and drive the car to Doritech to get the diff fitted.
That then just leaves the cage which Nick at Track-Tek informs me should be done by April.
What's next, not much, more cosmetic than game changer but a carbon roof would be nice along with looking at aero options and another set of lightweight 18x9 wheels to throw slicks on.
Hi there
I was going to send my wheel of to Jack at Royals for a re-trim but even though feedback on the whole was excellent a few people had poor experiences on stitching quality. So when I heard that several people had sent their wheels to Lovatt and everyone was amazed at the quality I decided to send him my wheel.
Sent it last Thursday, was leather and worn, here is a poor picture of how it looked, I was stupid and did not take any before photos:-
Got the wheel back today so very quick turn around, just two working days and the quality is superb and it feels awesome, some pictures:
The quality is superb, I compared it to my Porsche Sport/GT3 wheel which is genuine and this feels as good if not better. Everything is spot on and for £170 is money well spent, once the obnoxious bright yellow cage is fitted the car will look very purposeful.
I know it's just a wheel and has no impact on the cars performance but changing the wheel in my 911 to Alcantera transformed the driving experience, so I can't wait to drive the M3 with this fitted. Fingers crossed the ECU will be back with me in a few days and then I can get the tune flashed to it for map sensor and I can report back on driving. Very happy, great work by Lovatt.
I was going to send my wheel of to Jack at Royals for a re-trim but even though feedback on the whole was excellent a few people had poor experiences on stitching quality. So when I heard that several people had sent their wheels to Lovatt and everyone was amazed at the quality I decided to send him my wheel.
Sent it last Thursday, was leather and worn, here is a poor picture of how it looked, I was stupid and did not take any before photos:-
Got the wheel back today so very quick turn around, just two working days and the quality is superb and it feels awesome, some pictures:
The quality is superb, I compared it to my Porsche Sport/GT3 wheel which is genuine and this feels as good if not better. Everything is spot on and for £170 is money well spent, once the obnoxious bright yellow cage is fitted the car will look very purposeful.
I know it's just a wheel and has no impact on the cars performance but changing the wheel in my 911 to Alcantera transformed the driving experience, so I can't wait to drive the M3 with this fitted. Fingers crossed the ECU will be back with me in a few days and then I can get the tune flashed to it for map sensor and I can report back on driving. Very happy, great work by Lovatt.
Hi there
Chucked the wheel on, refit is far easier and no fiddly airbag to remove, took like two minutes, some better pictures, very happy with results:
Looking forward to getting ECU back in and driving the car on the map sensor and fingers crossed diff will be in ready for end of March trackday at Donnington.
Chucked the wheel on, refit is far easier and no fiddly airbag to remove, took like two minutes, some better pictures, very happy with results:
Looking forward to getting ECU back in and driving the car on the map sensor and fingers crossed diff will be in ready for end of March trackday at Donnington.
Aye but a nice place to be, very happy to drive it daily and do long trips in it, essentially it is club sport spec, once rear cage is installed.
The gearbox has six settings, 3/4 are perfect on the road, but even S6 is good fun and the harshness also depends on your throttle position during shift, a mild lift makes it a very smooth even in S6, but just better idea to use S3/S4 on the road which I do.
On 18" wheels with road tyres, the ride quality is actually better than a stock M3 on 19" wheels. The coilovers take me two minutes to adjust between road and track settings, it works very well on the road and there is no clearance issues as ride height is set for optimal handling, not the slammed wideboy barry look.
Depends what type of diff and what work is done I suppose.
I'm taking my diff down to Rich this afternoon as it happens, he doesn't know it yet though
Tell him to reply to my text, need the partcodes from him so I can order the parts for him to finish mine off, you will spot it, bright green thing on the floor.
Hi there
Well I am now up and running on BMW CSL map slightly altered to the scaling of the GM map sensor, but apart from that the map is standard, not remapped etc.
So apart from numerous error codes and my engine light being illuminated due to secondary air pump and de-cats I can conclude following:
- Oil level gauge does not work, my cluster is to old, need a C23/C24 version of the cluster present 2003 onwards, search shows these can be had for around £50 so might give one a try to satisfy my curiosity as I've have taught myself how to use NCS expert so know the code I need to add to get it displayed.
- Map sensor does exactly what it says, the slight/partial throttle drivability is a night and day improvement, no matter how hard I try I cannot get the car to stutter or cough, absolute silky smoothness and simply a nicer throttle.
- Performance it seems just a quick as the previous remap and the gear changes are the best they have ever being as my car now has both CSL SMG and CSL ECU software, an improvement there for sure.
- Idle at cold is a tad lumpy, almost like cams but the more cycles the car has done its pretty much spot on now, obviously because cams in CSL are different.
In short though the Alpha-N was good and made excellent power, it did have some drivability issues, for me they were minor but I knew they were there and in hindsight I'd never have gone with Alpha-N if I had known about the map sensor options, but we live and learn. In short if you have a CSL style air box on your M3, forget Alpha-N and go down the map sensor route and remap the cost is pretty much the same if you buy the kit from Frank Smith TTFS in America, was about £400ish including parts, cable and tune. If your on the older MSS54 ECU then you will need it converting to the newer MSS54HP as the CSL maps are twice the size due to higher resolution cam profiles and vanos tuning. Frank Smith TTFS also offer this service as do quite a few members on cutters such as M3Carbon.
So yeah its good, so now I cannot wait to get my actual TTFS remap and see how the car truly performs and to check all is OK running, I doubt the car will make any additional power but if it does then epic, but drivability is superb compared to Alpha-N and is also better than the stock M3 running of the MAF sensor, map sensor all the way.
Yes its a lot of money to spend but getting the throttle perfect transforms how a car is to drive and having to drive around potential issues caused by Alpha-N is never ideal so those of you who have a CSL style air box or CSL box your options are:
Frank Smith TTFS Kit (Includes GM sensor, harness, instructions, cable and remap)
If your ECU is the older type then you need it converting, you can send it to Frank for conversion and he will pre-load his map on for you.
Alternatively if you want to go only with OEM:-
BMW CSL air rail: £170-£200
BMW Map sensor: £350-£500
BMW CSL IAT sensor: £30-£40
Frank Smith TTFS tune: £300
Going oe route gets expensive and offers no gains on drivability or performance, confirmed by TTFS, but he can supply an air rail for those who want the oe look and are happy to pay extra for it.
So looking forward to trying out the remap when I get it and driving the car with the new finished wheel is absolute amazing I have to say also, as daft as it sounds it has transformed it, feels almost like driving a much newer model.
With the remap on and 3.91 final ratio in this car is going to be a rocket ship!
Well I am now up and running on BMW CSL map slightly altered to the scaling of the GM map sensor, but apart from that the map is standard, not remapped etc.
So apart from numerous error codes and my engine light being illuminated due to secondary air pump and de-cats I can conclude following:
- Oil level gauge does not work, my cluster is to old, need a C23/C24 version of the cluster present 2003 onwards, search shows these can be had for around £50 so might give one a try to satisfy my curiosity as I've have taught myself how to use NCS expert so know the code I need to add to get it displayed.
- Map sensor does exactly what it says, the slight/partial throttle drivability is a night and day improvement, no matter how hard I try I cannot get the car to stutter or cough, absolute silky smoothness and simply a nicer throttle.
- Performance it seems just a quick as the previous remap and the gear changes are the best they have ever being as my car now has both CSL SMG and CSL ECU software, an improvement there for sure.
- Idle at cold is a tad lumpy, almost like cams but the more cycles the car has done its pretty much spot on now, obviously because cams in CSL are different.
In short though the Alpha-N was good and made excellent power, it did have some drivability issues, for me they were minor but I knew they were there and in hindsight I'd never have gone with Alpha-N if I had known about the map sensor options, but we live and learn. In short if you have a CSL style air box on your M3, forget Alpha-N and go down the map sensor route and remap the cost is pretty much the same if you buy the kit from Frank Smith TTFS in America, was about £400ish including parts, cable and tune. If your on the older MSS54 ECU then you will need it converting to the newer MSS54HP as the CSL maps are twice the size due to higher resolution cam profiles and vanos tuning. Frank Smith TTFS also offer this service as do quite a few members on cutters such as M3Carbon.
So yeah its good, so now I cannot wait to get my actual TTFS remap and see how the car truly performs and to check all is OK running, I doubt the car will make any additional power but if it does then epic, but drivability is superb compared to Alpha-N and is also better than the stock M3 running of the MAF sensor, map sensor all the way.
Yes its a lot of money to spend but getting the throttle perfect transforms how a car is to drive and having to drive around potential issues caused by Alpha-N is never ideal so those of you who have a CSL style air box or CSL box your options are:
Frank Smith TTFS Kit (Includes GM sensor, harness, instructions, cable and remap)
If your ECU is the older type then you need it converting, you can send it to Frank for conversion and he will pre-load his map on for you.
Alternatively if you want to go only with OEM:-
BMW CSL air rail: £170-£200
BMW Map sensor: £350-£500
BMW CSL IAT sensor: £30-£40
Frank Smith TTFS tune: £300
Going oe route gets expensive and offers no gains on drivability or performance, confirmed by TTFS, but he can supply an air rail for those who want the oe look and are happy to pay extra for it.
So looking forward to trying out the remap when I get it and driving the car with the new finished wheel is absolute amazing I have to say also, as daft as it sounds it has transformed it, feels almost like driving a much newer model.
With the remap on and 3.91 final ratio in this car is going to be a rocket ship!
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So will it be ready for Powerstation?
Interior is a marked improvement over when I went out in it with you.
How long is a piece of string, I would hope the Americans can have my tune written within a month but I know they are super busy guys as they are doing a lot of tuning on the new BMW M4.
So fingers crossed, diff should be in by then though so worse case is I can still bring the car and maybe even run it, but suspect it would be around 360-370BHP without the remap on the stock BMW CSL map.
The interior is extremely basic but at least not bare metal showing or loads of road noise and it is a perfectly comfy place to be, the KW suspension really is excellent.
Hi there
Rich at Doritech has completely dissembled the read differential and LSD, cleaned all internals and assembled with XF modifier. After reassembly torque break away is 120ftlb which is perfect and it's now extremely smooth.
Some photos of it all in bits:
Rich has being keeping me informed with pictures along the way, great guy and now I'm just waiting for parts from BMW Germany.
Rich at Doritech has completely dissembled the read differential and LSD, cleaned all internals and assembled with XF modifier. After reassembly torque break away is 120ftlb which is perfect and it's now extremely smooth.
Some photos of it all in bits:
Rich has being keeping me informed with pictures along the way, great guy and now I'm just waiting for parts from BMW Germany.
Hi there
Had an odd noise for last month, that sounded like exhaust or brake/dust shield catching/tingling, decided best safe than sorry and took it to a garage I trust. Good job I did as the noise is coming from inside the driveshaft/propshaft so glad I got it checked in case it failed. The garage said it is most likely the propshaft or the CV joint, as such I decided to do my usual when replacing a part and well replace everything.
New driveshaft from BMW was £850
but luckily a fellow forum member had a 2005 one which had covered 60k miles in good working order, so I got that for a bargain £70 delivered.
So I am replacing:
- Driveshaft
- CV Joint
- Gasket
- Bolts
- Driveshaft centre bearing and support
- Guilbo (already new but will be re-inspected).
Cars service indicator is also stating oil service, last service was inspection 2 so I guess this is just a basic oil service and as such I've ordered:
- 8l Castrol 10W-60
- BMW oil filter
- BMW fuel filter (Don't think its ever being changed)
- Washers
So will change oil and fuel filter whilst mechanic is swapping out driveshaft.
Then will be all ready for the rolling road day on 25th of April.
Rich is still doing my differential as I am still yet to drop some parts of for him to finish it.
Lastly how can I reset the service indicator myself?
Had an odd noise for last month, that sounded like exhaust or brake/dust shield catching/tingling, decided best safe than sorry and took it to a garage I trust. Good job I did as the noise is coming from inside the driveshaft/propshaft so glad I got it checked in case it failed. The garage said it is most likely the propshaft or the CV joint, as such I decided to do my usual when replacing a part and well replace everything.
New driveshaft from BMW was £850
but luckily a fellow forum member had a 2005 one which had covered 60k miles in good working order, so I got that for a bargain £70 delivered. So I am replacing:
- Driveshaft
- CV Joint
- Gasket
- Bolts
- Driveshaft centre bearing and support
- Guilbo (already new but will be re-inspected).
Cars service indicator is also stating oil service, last service was inspection 2 so I guess this is just a basic oil service and as such I've ordered:
- 8l Castrol 10W-60
- BMW oil filter
- BMW fuel filter (Don't think its ever being changed)
- Washers
So will change oil and fuel filter whilst mechanic is swapping out driveshaft.
Then will be all ready for the rolling road day on 25th of April.
Rich is still doing my differential as I am still yet to drop some parts of for him to finish it.
Lastly how can I reset the service indicator myself?