LG 48CX OLED - 4K 120 Hz
- Thread starter Vega
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Just finished setting up my 48CX. I have to say, coming from an AW3420DW I was expecting an upgrade, but not this. Going on youtube via the native app and watching 4K HDR Dolby Atmos videos simply took my breath away. This really is nothing short of perfection as far as picture quality goes.
I'm now on Windows, and I only have an RTX 2080 for the moment. It'll take some getting used to, especially the sheer size! Coming from a curved 34" ultrawide, I feel like the corners are actually curving away from me, although I'm sure I'll get used to it soon enough. Text doesn't seem quite as sharp, but I think part of that will be due to using 4:2:0 chroma subsampling. Interestingly, I'm limited in the NVidia Control Panel to 120hz or 100hz options at 4K resolution (under PC), but under "Ultra HD" I can select 4K 60Hz with full RGB and dynamic range. Just left it with the PC setting for the moment, 4K 120 4:2:0. I notice that the same 4K HDR videos which work perfectly via the TVs native app don't seem to trigger HDR when played on youtube via chrome on my PC. Perhaps another HDMI 2.0 issue
I have to admit I'm also very afraid of burn in, even though I purchased the warranty from JL. Even typing this, I'm conscious of how long my chrome window has been static on screen, and I just minimised my Outlook because it had been sitting static for a little while. I had a folder of lovely 4K wallpapers ready for this upgrade which were cycling every 1 minute, but the static colourful elements of them mean I just set a plain black background and this chrome window is currently floating in a sea of inky black. I'm sure with time I'll get lazy and stop caring so much, but it's absolutely something potential buyers should be aware of. It's in the back of your mind, whereas it never ever was on my ultrawide.
I'm now on Windows, and I only have an RTX 2080 for the moment. It'll take some getting used to, especially the sheer size! Coming from a curved 34" ultrawide, I feel like the corners are actually curving away from me, although I'm sure I'll get used to it soon enough. Text doesn't seem quite as sharp, but I think part of that will be due to using 4:2:0 chroma subsampling. Interestingly, I'm limited in the NVidia Control Panel to 120hz or 100hz options at 4K resolution (under PC), but under "Ultra HD" I can select 4K 60Hz with full RGB and dynamic range. Just left it with the PC setting for the moment, 4K 120 4:2:0. I notice that the same 4K HDR videos which work perfectly via the TVs native app don't seem to trigger HDR when played on youtube via chrome on my PC. Perhaps another HDMI 2.0 issue
I have to admit I'm also very afraid of burn in, even though I purchased the warranty from JL. Even typing this, I'm conscious of how long my chrome window has been static on screen, and I just minimised my Outlook because it had been sitting static for a little while. I had a folder of lovely 4K wallpapers ready for this upgrade which were cycling every 1 minute, but the static colourful elements of them mean I just set a plain black background and this chrome window is currently floating in a sea of inky black. I'm sure with time I'll get lazy and stop caring so much, but it's absolutely something potential buyers should be aware of. It's in the back of your mind, whereas it never ever was on my ultrawide.
As long as the right precautions are in place, it should be fine.... but I rather have mine last as long as possible so it's why I keep my 34" monitor for everything else except gaming and media.
Ah damn, that's a shame. What about the ISF presets? They are very similar to technicolor.
Is that a bug with free/g sync only working in game mode then? Makes no sense why you need to use a preset for that to work.
Consoles don't utilise RGB full like PCs do. Although again, perhaps, it is another weird setting that only applies to this particular model.
Just make sure you aren't crushing blacks as when using RGB full/signal, black setting should be on "high", if you're sending a "limited" signal, then it should be on "low".
If you're are using RGB full and have the TV set to "low", initially it does look better as in blacks are definitely blacker and the image on the whole is more punchy but you are losing incredible amount of detail since the black level isn't correctly set, good example for this I find is batman arkham knight, you just lose all detail in the cape/suit
@Nexus18 game mode is essential for Freesync/Gsync.
Your post has pretty much confirmed that my "guide" will be restricted to the CX models as e.g. preset Technicolour isn't an option with the CX models.
I'll have a look at the sharpness settings.
Ah damn, that's a shame. What about the ISF presets? They are very similar to technicolor.
Is that a bug with free/g sync only working in game mode then? Makes no sense why you need to use a preset for that to work.
One would have thought auto would be able to figure out how to auto black correctly
Vincent set it to low for hdr and sdr I believe, just going to leave it on low.
Consoles don't utilise RGB full like PCs do. Although again, perhaps, it is another weird setting that only applies to this particular model.
Just make sure you aren't crushing blacks as when using RGB full/signal, black setting should be on "high", if you're sending a "limited" signal, then it should be on "low".
If you're are using RGB full and have the TV set to "low", initially it does look better as in blacks are definitely blacker and the image on the whole is more punchy but you are losing incredible amount of detail since the black level isn't correctly set, good example for this I find is batman arkham knight, you just lose all detail in the cape/suit
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Soldato
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I've been doing some testing this morning while gaming, and I think you're right. Best settings are RGB full with blacks set to auto which seems to default it to high.
Lg has included so many software features to prevent burn in, I have the JL insurance just in case the world or LG is wrong so sleep comfortably but I ain't worried in the slightest we have screen shift, logo luminance, screen saver, ABL, ASBL features designed to prevent burn in.
I have not adjusted anything in the slightest but if you do feel you need to then you can adjust to prevent it.
Hmm so Vincent T one of the most popular Youtube TV calibrators well ex, saying you should put it in Pc mode for RGB for better improvement and set to black to low since auto/high gets it wrong and can introduce banding..... could be wrong ?
I guess the best way to test it is test it out myself and compare auto/low/high, will try and dig up some dark videos and see if the detail is lost.
Yeah I think it was just because it was new out of the box, I'm sure within a little while I'll be using as a normal monitor. I got wallpaper engine off steam and have a lovely dark galaxy moving wallpaper now, so that's a happy compromise - because there's so much screen real estate I always have some elements of the desktop wallpaper showing!
The big thing which I miss though is my desktop icons. I wish there was a way to hide them without having to remove them from the desktop altogether, because I found that very useful having a few regularly accessed documents etc sitting there.
Yeah, that is why I didn't bother with adjusting anything, I love my desktop icons and shortcuts for ease of use it feels overkill some guys have literally a black screen and black taskbar like a blank screen, is that even a computer any more.
The screen shift and ABL, ASBL kick in well so does the screen saver so really I don't care in the slightest, I watch some 6hr sporting events and sometimes see the Skysports logo dimming or moving off screen but now don't even bother to look at it.
Didn't watch the video but was that video of his not for the new xbox? If so, like I said, wouldn't go by that since consoles are very different with their signal processing compared to PC, I think consoles use/prefer a "limited" signal.
For PC GPUs and any type of display, it has always been RGB full setting wherever possible and then high black level on the display.
If in SDR mode, you can probably use this site to test if black levels are being crushed:
http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/black.php
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I still have a question which remains unanswered. Has anyone here done any color critical work? I'm speaking of photoshop, raw image files, sRGB etc.
In the past 6 months I have tried a multitude of gaming monitors, trying to find one (preferably a 32") which was color accurate. I cannot. There aren't any.
As I type this message I'm using a Samsung Odyssey 32" G7, which I will return shortly. Say no more!
My current set up involves two Asus PB328Q, these are professional monitors that are extremely color accurate, perfect contrast, near perfect blacks, but lack in the gaming department because they are older, slower, and only do 75hz. All of the above has led me to this CX48" oled "reasoning", which when (and if) I buy it, I want to ensure it is color accurate, and it could potentially replace one of my 32". Another school of thought, would be to use the Oled simply for gaming, and watching the occasional HDR your tube video and forget the PC monitor part. The problem with this, becomes, that then I have failed to replace my current monitors with a hybrid that can do everything well. Which is initially what I had set out to do.
Your thoughts?
In the past 6 months I have tried a multitude of gaming monitors, trying to find one (preferably a 32") which was color accurate. I cannot. There aren't any.
As I type this message I'm using a Samsung Odyssey 32" G7, which I will return shortly. Say no more!
My current set up involves two Asus PB328Q, these are professional monitors that are extremely color accurate, perfect contrast, near perfect blacks, but lack in the gaming department because they are older, slower, and only do 75hz. All of the above has led me to this CX48" oled "reasoning", which when (and if) I buy it, I want to ensure it is color accurate, and it could potentially replace one of my 32". Another school of thought, would be to use the Oled simply for gaming, and watching the occasional HDR your tube video and forget the PC monitor part. The problem with this, becomes, that then I have failed to replace my current monitors with a hybrid that can do everything well. Which is initially what I had set out to do.
Your thoughts?
Interesting to see how popular a higher-priced smaller OLED is:
The reason why the CX48 sales more is because it was made for gamers in mind and to be used on a desktop with limited space better than a large TV like the CX55/65, but for gamers who came from a 42inch like myself see no reason to just jump and paying £1500 to the CX48 been only 5inch bigger!
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if we all started this mind game of worrying we wouldn't buy anything, the Burn-in have always been a big debated topic between to sides some clam they have got it and some clam they haven't seen it and we can't just take the word of Ring.com on there burn-in test because they didn't use games only colours and who is going to use just colours? so who do we believe!
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thanks for the information and handy link, I gave it a good testing and you are right those settings are better suited for xbox consoles. General TV viewing connected via PC I tried your link and also I have Mark Sydows reference black/white pattern test, so the flashing bars are a quick give away same applies with your link, I am seeing more detail or flashing bars with high setting over low. So high setting is better for Video/film playback.
Only thing is on some content (HDR) the high setting makes blacks appear more greyish and not black black, while other videos its black black but no detail lost and no greyish blacks, guess maybe that is down to the source material though.
These settings is too high for a desktop OLED TV at 80cm gaming
- OLED Light: 100, I set to 80
- Contrast: 100 I set to 75
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Just got one of these yesterday. Hooked up to my 3090, I get the option for 120hz but when I select it, it immediately reverts back to 60 when I hit apply. Any idea?
Reinstall nvidia drivers perhaps.
When I had a long cable that didn't provide the full bandwidth, my screen would flicker continually until I reverted.
It's going back immediately for you though, so, not totally sure.
Maybe try changing the HDMI cable and try setting the connected device to PC mode. Home > Dashboard > cog > Edit > Select little icon next to input name and set it to PC.
When I had a long cable that didn't provide the full bandwidth, my screen would flicker continually until I reverted.
It's going back immediately for you though, so, not totally sure.
Maybe try changing the HDMI cable and try setting the connected device to PC mode. Home > Dashboard > cog > Edit > Select little icon next to input name and set it to PC.
I find 80 too bright even, I'm currently at 60 OLED light.
Also strongly agree with turning HDR off in windows, because it is blindingly bright (at least to me) - although it does look stunning. I've also changed to 4K 60Hz RGB full from 4K 120Hz 4:2:0 subsampling limited - I'll miss 120Hz a little undoubtedly, but the colours, text, and general desktop use experience is just garbage without full RGB. Happy to use 60Hz for a little longer.
Check Stardock Fences.
Can organise your icons on desktop by puting them in fences and than has option you need to quickly hide icons by double clicking any blank space on desktop. Double click again and icons are back