May have bitten off more than I can chew...MR2 Winter project

Thanks for letting me know - I have had a look on their web site and it's a little bit cheaper than other places! I might try reconditioning them again, the issue I had was I couldn't get the piston to push out on the hydraulics of the motorbike, perhaps it will be easier on the MR2 to push the pistons out and replace the rubber parts if I decide to recondition them myself, but I am still trying to decide!
 
Refurbing is easy. I used a refurb kit from big redd and genuine pistons from Toyota. You can also get pistons from Big Redd but didn't want to mix OEM with pattern as i only needed two as the other six were perfect.

Kit was £20 for the seals and £20 (GT-Four Tax) each for the genuine pistons.

I bought a full big redd kit for the rear though as they are only twin piston and that was £40 for the whole lot.

The calipers were cleaned thoroughly and panel wiped before being sprayed with high temp caliper paint. Then cooked at 150 degrees for a couple of hours in the oven to harden them up. Still good three months on. You can get all the fancy gloss finishes aswell but wanted OEM look.

BCEdxcT.jpg

£100 and a bit of patience and elbow grease to do all your MR2 calipers I would have thought.

To get the pistons out I just used a car foot pump connected to the back of the caliper and some blocks of wood to "direct" the air to which piston I wanted to push. Once they were all sitting proud it was just a case of using screw drivers to lever them out. If you were to replace the pistons then just grab them with a set of mole grips if they are going in the bin.
 
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Many thanks for your reply Adam Cool Dude!

Thinking about it, I will likely rebuild the calipers after all, because it costs four times less to do things that way. When the welding is all done, I will be looking at the calipers to see what state they are in - I am hoping that the pistons are okay - but if there is any pitting on any that means replacements unfortunately! Plus if my ZR-7 calipers are anything to go by, the pistons on those calipers had to be replaced; I ended up spending three figures getting them done because I couldn't get the pistons out myself and they're still good.

I have tried to find a Toyota supplier but haven't been able to locate any yet who might be able to supply OEM pistons should the need arise - unless I contact the local dealership, there is one nearby.

Once I ascertain the extent of the corrosion, I can buy the relevant kits and then paint them up. I will probably paint my ones in a matt black high temperature paint - just for contrast reasons.

Hopefully tomorrow, my headlights will arrive then I can put those in over the Friday/Saturday, drop the bumper and put the horns in their correct places. I also need to spend some time putting new panels on my garage roof as it is leaky :(

The carpet removal itself might involve removal of the drivers seat, as well as the various boot/fuel cap/bonnet/front trunk levers. If there is thread-lock on the seat bolts (as is normally the case) I will probably struggle as I don't much fancy waving my blow torch around the underside of the car as the fuel pipes, tank and pump are somewhere between the seats and the centre console. My friend says the sill could probably be welded with the carpet in, as long as it is done one bit at a time to prevent heat build up. But there will be a fire extinguisher and loads of water to hand anyway. I will try to lift as much of it away as I can and get rid of the foam pieces at the same time.

Just to go off-piste a little bit - my Corsa is due it's MoT in the next few weeks and so is my ZR-7 so I will be selling the Corsa once it's got a full MoT on it because the MR2 is more my kind of car :D if that makes sense haha.
 
I used a complete big red kit on my rear calipers with pistons and seals and they fitted absolutely fine. Only reason is used OEM Toyota on the fronts was I didn't want to mix and match incase there were any manufacturing differences. MR2's are only twin piston up front so might as well replace the lot.
 
Thanks Adam Cool Dude - it seems like I don't need to worry about the big red kit or even the brake parts kits - I will do a price comparison between the two with shipping and figure out who works out cheaper once I get all the calipers off and determine the piston health.

The way I'm going to do it is take one of the calipers off and hang it with some string or cable ties (so as not to pull at the brake hose) pump the brake until the piston(s) pops out and block it with a spanner or piece of wood, once that one is out, I'll pinch that pipe off with some cardboard and my vice grips, then work my way round to the next caliper and do the same thing. Eventually I should get them all out with hydraulic pressure but at the first sign of pitting, I'll literally yank the piston out because it won't be any good. I have a 12 v tyre inflator, but I am not convinced that I will get a good enough seal on the back of the caliper to push the piston out.

Should hopefully take me half a day to get all the pistons out and a week or so to get the parts and fit them.
 
I've also used a bike bump to push them out before if non threaded - it doesn't take much effort, just remember to block their exit from the other side of the caliper!
 
Thanks for your replies Adam Cool Dude & Rodenal!

I guess the only way to find out is to give it a go with my bike pump, it goes to 140 PSI or something crazy like that, but I shouldn't think that more than 20 or 30 PSI is needed to be honest! Means I can do it out in the back garden with a washing up bowl and block the exit with some scrap wood.

I managed to replace my headlight units before it got too dark, but lo and behold - none of my H4 bulbs actually match, so the colour is slightly off still! I got a new set of H4 bulbs which I am going to fit tomorrow morning before work, if I can get out of bed early enough! The headlight units themselves do match now though and I had no issues fitting them.

One of the units I took out was full of rust - the bracket in which the chrome trim mounts on was all rusty and falling apart - so I need to source replacements of these. The other isn't as bad, but I would like to find a replacement set. I'm not having much luck so far - it may be a case of treating the rust and then painting them and hoping for the best until I can get a new set made up perhaps - but fortunately, they're still keeping my headlights secure - which is another MoT failure if they weren't secured.

Also, I still haven't lifted any of the carpets, or taken the foam out, Saturday afternoon is my last opportunity to do those and to fix the garage roof.

That leaves this lot to do before the MoT:

1). Lift the interior carpets.
2). Removing foam sections.
3). Welding.
4). Rebuild calipers, replace hoses.

I am going to try and think of another way to get the old horns out - I have already sheared one or two of the bumper bolts, so I am half tempted to just leave the horns where they are for the MoT - it looks like an absolute pita to remove!

I haven't phoned the people down the road yet. So I'm going to get their number and phone them up on Tuesday to get an MoT booked in the next few weeks - by that time my brakes should be done. I may as well get them to do my Corsa as well.
 
I spoke to a friend who had a look at my car today...I have an idle/cold start issue on the MR2 (idle is too high).

I've looked around and it seems a common issue - the ICSV and ICV get bunged up with crap, they stick and they don't work properly. Or the wiring just fails.

At present, on cold, my engine is at 2000 RPM...which is far too high - it should be 1500 at the most. I mostly ignored this behaviour because my car was running and not misfiring or anything.

Eventually, it drops down to 1500 then after a more minutes have passed, it goes down to 850-900 RPM which is normal - possibly. Perhaps 750-850 is where it should be, but I don't know the specification.

Apparently, if I take the throttle body off and cut slots into the ICSV screws (as the heads chew up easily) and remove with a slotted screw driver, I can run some bench tests.

Given that an idle of 2000 RPM is probably an MoT failure and my MR2 will almost certainly fail on emissions as a result, I definitely need to get this issue resolved.

Has anyone else come across this problem? My other concern is that with the engine - if the idle is high, could I possibly be looking at bore wash as a potential symptom of a high cold start idle?
 
Have you tried unplugging the icv to see if it makes any difference ?

Also check for vac leaks, spray some wd40 around and see if there's a leak anywhere.
But it could easily e a gummed up TB allowing excess air in.


One culprit I've read is the power steering hose check that.

Also try to reset the ecu after u plugging the isv do the simple things first.
 
Thanks for your reply The Running Man!

I haven't tried unplugging the icv yet - I'll give it a try tonight or tomorrow - I was going to use the WD40 trick, but it was so damn dark by the time I got back to my garage last night. Cleaning the throttle body is a good shout, why didn't I even think about that ha ha :o I did it to all my previous cars ha ha

The power steering hose I will check as well tonight or tomorrow, be good to get that screaming idle down to normal levels, one less potential MoT failure.
 
Thanks for your reply Sigma!

I did once have a head torch, but it wasn't very good - I never got round to replacing it so I'll look around for one since I need to do some shopping today anyway.

Also, welding should be getting done today, so I'm going to try to get an MoT booked for Friday giving me the next few days to sort out any glaring problems, if anything, I expect it might fail on something I have missed - but I'll get it tested, see what it fails on, sort the other issues out in the week or so and then book it in again for MoT.

Fingers crossed for Friday!
 
Gamefreak501 said:
Thanks for your reply Sigma!

I did once have a head torch, but it wasn't very good - I never got round to replacing it so I'll look around for one since I need to do some shopping today anyway.

Also, welding should be getting done today, so I'm going to try to get an MoT booked for Friday giving me the next few days to sort out any glaring problems, if anything, I expect it might fail on something I have missed - but I'll get it tested, see what it fails on, sort the other issues out in the week or so and then book it in again for MoT.

Fingers crossed for Friday!
Click to expand...

Have a look in B&M for a cheap and cheerful one :)

I must admit I didn't expect this project to move so quickly!!
 
Thanks for your replies!

Spaceman - I agree - it is so much nicer without the scoops. I now have literally a boot full of spare parts to sell ha ha! I remember coming across that post after using a search engine - I have added it to favourites so I don't lose it!

Adam Cool Dude - I do like the 300ZX turbo wheels, some are finishing on eBay - but there is nothing about them being staggered, so I can't take the risk with such little time remaining. But they are nice - not too 'busy' - I think anything up to 5 spoke will look the part. I will set up a search alert on my phone so every time they come up I know about it!

Sigma - There is a B&M near me, I will try to have a look on Wednesday :D It has been quite quick! I wanted to get it running as soon as possible - as the Corsa will be getting sold as soon as this one is roadworthy, can't wait to drive it round properly, I'll get some breakdown cover, just in case, but it's the only way I can actually identify any potential problems. As it's going to be my only car, it will be a running restoration as time goes on, no doubt I will have a whole more jobs to do to it!

The Running Man - those are really nice alloys - do you know who makes those? I had a look on the Rim Style web site but there is nothing quite like those on there!

*****Today's update******

So I got back about an hour and a bit ago from my garage; we had to run a long extension lead to a friends house, as I don't live near my garage and we got started.

I literally did none of the welding or cutting because I don't know how to! Apart from a few hiccups, the rusty panel has been removed.

(1) Here is how it looked when it was being taken off by a friend of mine:

Sill_rust.jpg


When we took it off, the inner sill looked remarkably clean - I've been really lucky! It's not to say the rest of the inner sill will be as corrosion free, but it's a good start. I need to find a new set of straws for my Bilt Hamber cavity wax, I'll order some shortly - I want to make use of the grommet hole before I put the grommet back in and really fill the area with all my cavity wax to protect it at least for the next 3-5 years when I will need to probably replace the whole outer sill panel.

(2) This is the panel removed:

Sill_rust_2.jpg


(3) This is the new panel in, with a skim of filler I have put in to just reduce the low/dented spots and imperfections on the patch:


Sill_rust_3.jpg


I need to just smooth it over, prime it and then I will MoT it as is, I'll get the correct paint for it, but I want to make this nice and smooth first.

However I do have a few concerns before MoT:

(1) After doing an ECU reset, it looks like my idle is now at 1800 going down to 950 or so eventually. This is better than 2000, but still on the high side. I couldn't get at the ICV and might need to remove some of the intake system; so I am going to try again Wednesday.

(2) For the second time, whilst being parked on my hill and idling, the MR2 stalled out. This happened previously before the new fuel filter was put in and before the above ECU reset and was one of the reasons I replaced the fuel filter. This tells me that the fuel filter and the ECU reset have not resolved the problem and I am now looking at a fuel pump, or fuel pressure regulator issue, or both. I think Redex treatment for the injectors should clear any blockages and might resolve the problem - but running the old fuel filter may have already affected these and irreversibly damaged them, depending on how much the fuel inside the filter had lacquered. On the flat, it seems to idle with no issues. I don't like idling the vehicle for long periods, but it's the only way for the coolant to make a full heat cycle and for me to be able to check the cars functionality, check for leaks and niggling stalling problems on hills haha

(3) The car has had roughly 15 litres of fuel in it since I purchased it, but there is no way to tell with it how much is left and how long the car will run for - I need to get the fuel sender working or perhaps fill it to the brim once it is road worthy and has an MoT and see if this 'jogs' it.

If I can't resolve the fuelling issue before Friday, with the Redex treatment, then no MoT test for me :(

The petrol gauge issue I can live with a bit longer - I'll just stick another 5 Litre can of petrol in it which should be plenty enough for the MoT - provided I do resolve the high idle issue and the fuelling issue.

I am going to check the pressure of the fuel pump through the fuel pressure return pipe (once I find where it is!). It has been suggested to use a bucket to measure the litres a minute from a fuel pipe, but that doesn't seem terribly safe!

I may well be looking at a new pressure regulator, or a new fuel pump, or both. I am definitely not comfortable taking the car to any MoT station, regardless of how close it is until the fuelling issue is resolved because it could conk out anywhere and there are a lot of hills here! Whilst I have been able to get it going again and driven it up the ramp and in to my garage, after it has stalled, I don't have that privilege on roads with traffic on them! I could be looking at three figures to replace both the pump and regulator - but I'll have to wait and see after the Redex treatment. I have seen both of these parts for as little as £20 each on eBay, but I don't know how genuine or good they might be for that sort of money and will need to look around once I have got to the bottom of this problem.

My plan and intention is to drive the car to the MoT station, once I am satisfied with the fuelling. I haven't actually booked my MoT yet, as it depends on how Wednesday goes with my idle and fuelling issue. The idle might not be as much of a problem at the MoT test - perhaps the car just needs a good run once I have resolved the fuelling issue and got an MoT certificate!!

New longer to do list :( (In no particular order).

(1). Smooth filler and prime it on repaired area.
(2). Redex treatment, fuel pressure test, possible fuel flow rate test, potential fuel hose replacement all round.
(3). Brake caliper rebuild all round, new hoses and new fluid.
(4). Replace/bypass hoses from hell.
(5). Remove foam.
(6). Source and install spare wheel cowling.
(7). Inspect suspension for any corrosion issues.
(8). Check for play on steering wheel and if within manufacturers recommendations.
(9). Check timing belt for any cracks or fraying and replace if necessary.
(10). Check engine, exhaust and gearbox mounts for any signs of wear or damage.
(11). New Tyres all round.
(12). ICV bench testing inside vehicle to check functionality.
(13). Check for air leaks with WD40 in case these are causing the high idle issue, replace any bad hoses.
(14). Check fuel sender functionality and fuel low light functionality, replace these units if necessary.
(15). Remove bumper and move the new horns to where the old horns currently are.


Phew, plenty still left to do!!
 
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Thanks for your reply The Running Man, they are particularly nice!

Whether its a bad idea or not, I have booked my MoT for tomorrow morning, I expect the tyres and emissions to cause problems - especially due to not being run properly for over three years.

But the garage can replace tyres if necessary - everything else I will have to fix, if I am allowed to drive the car away!

Fingers crossed!!
 
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