Mountain Biking

I'm riding mostly:

gravel 40%
hard pack mud 40%
soft forrest floor/rooty bits 20%

Maybe the Nobby Nic or the Hans Damf then.
 
Rode Black Mountain Cycle Centre yesterday, fork took a bit of adjusting but felt amazing towards mid day on-wards. Now im going to look into a rear shock, but need a custom one due to the eye to eye length!

As for BMCC - Awesome place, personally after 12 runs I got a little bored but some massive jumps there which you hit at stupid speeds. I chickened out of "full moto" because quite frankly they are massive!
 
Thinking about buying a tubeless kit (Joe's no flats A.M kit from CRC) as I have recently bought a new rear wheel (Nukeproof Generator AM)

Is it really worth it? For £30 I'm willing to give it a punt but a couple of the guys at work say it's not worth it.
Sealant goes dry and needs cleaned out/changed, messy tyre changes, difficult setup etc...
But the thought of no pinch flats and lower pressures/more grip is quite appealing
 
No

Gorilla tape + Superstar valves + Stans sealant = win

Tell the guys at work, they're retards. Anyone who can't get on with a tubeless set up, is a retard. Hardly effort once you get the hang, and adding new goo every now and again really aint hard.
 
Wow that sounds straight forward...

Will do some googling, cheers!

EDIT: Found a Tech Tuesday article on Pinkbike detailing this very method. Thanks again
 
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hey guys, some quick advice needed if possible. Trying to fit a new gear cable, iv'[e threaded it all through etc but once tightened when i try and shift it literally doesn't shift? then when i shift down the cassette then cable into the barrel adjuster was popping out. It felt like it wasn't holding the tension of the cable?

Does this mean my outer cables are to short? or the inner cable might of kinked?

its baffling me! thought it would be nice and simple, it threaded through the frame perfect and everything then boom! haha
 
hey guys, some quick advice needed if possible. Trying to fit a new gear cable, iv'[e threaded it all through etc but once tightened when i try and shift it literally doesn't shift? then when i shift down the cassette then cable into the barrel adjuster was popping out. It felt like it wasn't holding the tension of the cable?

Does this mean my outer cables are to short? or the inner cable might of kinked?

its baffling me! thought it would be nice and simple, it threaded through the frame perfect and everything then boom! haha

Sounds like the cable isnt tight.
Did you have the bottom gear selected on the shifter when you attached the cable?
Try unbolting the cable and flicking through the gears whilst holding the cable. You'll feel it pull the cable in when shifting one direction and letting out some slack when shifting the other direction. Keep shifting until you have maximum slack then pull tight and bolt the cable to the derailleur.
 
I did do that to start with yea! il try what you said when im home tonight from work. cheers.

hope i can sort it! want to learn to do these type of jobs myself!
 
Got offered an amazing deal on a 2015 Bronson C...going to turn it down and spend some cash lightening up the T2. Apparently the new 2016 Bronson is waaay better. Already got some Easton Haven Carbon bars and sub 30lbs. Next up is a Ti spring for the CCDB.:D
 
Right, so I haven't come in here before *waves* but I have a Ghost hardtail HTX 5800 but the shocks are leaking and a sack of crap.

They're Rockshox Reba RL shocks... is it worth repairing them, or getting some in the sale and replacing? What say you people?

Also, I have hella bad rubbing on my brakes. My front wheel is /slightly/ untrue but not enough for the brakes to literally stop the wheel when you spin it. Dead. Like really dead, after no time at all. It makes riding so hard.

Advice please!
 
800mm 35mm carbon bars and 35mm stem :)
Was that in response to me mate? What length steerer do you know? Is that BIRD's 35mm stem?

Basically I've got a chance of some 2 month old 2016 DP Pikes that will go on the Aeris, but the steerer is short at 180mm so trying to find out what kind of length people are running.
 
No point in replacing them if you're not unhappy with their performance.
There's a bunch of good suspension services that you can use, and while I'll usually recommend someone like TFTuned or Mojo, I think in this case Plush suspension or Jtech will work out cheaper / more economic vs the value of the fork, if that makes sense.
 
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