Mountain Biking

New wheels day!

I was looking at some DT Swiss M1900 / H1900 as a good value 370 hub + solid rims that would serve as a welcome upgrade over the standard Specialized wheels I have however I found an absolute bargain with the Roval Traverse with DT Swiss 350 hubs. The H1900 seem to be available in mullet at around £450, the Roval around £760 however they are 50% off at the moment so £380. Banging!

The Butchers with Trail walls are on the older wheels, these have been fitted with slightly grippier Cannibals with mavity walls.

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Soooo..

I have a spare stem, headset, crank with 32t, 11-52t Shimano cassette, 12 speed Deore XT, handle bars, Code Rs, wheel set in mullet, Fox 36, DMR death grips and a set of “questionable” pedals..

Bar a dropper post, seat, stack, BB and frame I essentially have a full bike.

What are peoples thoughts on a Nukeproof Scout 275 (or 290), Identiti AKA, Ragley Big Al or Pace RC627?

I might build up a thrasher to give me something to do over the summer.

Anyone have any experience or thoughts on this?
 
No idea but sounds like a fun project!

I'd like to do a build like that to improve my bike mechanic skills. I'm ok with jobs like replacing chain, quick brake bleed, realigning calipers, replacing pads and basic maintenance but I'm lost with gears and indexing.
 
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GuruJockStrap said:
No idea but sounds like a fun project!

I'd like to do a build like that to improve my bike mechanic skills. I'm ok with jobs like replacing chain, quick brake bleed, realigning calipers, replacing pads and basic maintenance but I'm lost with gears and indexing.
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I’m rubbish with the gears too but get it there abouts done in around a minute, it’s the fine tuning I suck at.

Outside of what you’ve mentioned there, what else really is there to building a bike? It’s pretty much all hex keys at this point and having the odd specialist tool to fix a cassette, the BB and to press in the headset etc. Give it a go!
 
robj20 said:
They're great frames for the money. Mines handled everything with ease.
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In terms of the parts I already have that are kicking about, it will give me a 90% built bike at a spec level that sits between the comp and the RS. Given the RS is £2999.99 and black and I think the frame and the odds and ends I need to make the bike won’t exceed around £400 all in I’d be mad not to get one built up.

I’m going mullet though, mullet is the future. Free rolling front, playful in the back.
 
Andrew Moore said:
In terms of the parts I already have that are kicking about, it will give me a 90% built bike at a spec level that sits between the comp and the RS. Given the RS is £2999.99 and black and I think the frame and the odds and ends I need to make the bike won’t exceed around £400 all in I’d be mad not to get one built up.

I’m going mullet though, mullet is the future. Free rolling front, playful in the back.
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Prefer full 29er myself.
I'll be selling my Scout frame in a few months I imagine, moving onto better things.
 
robj20 said:
Prefer full 29er myself.
I'll be selling my Scout frame in a few months I imagine, moving onto better things.
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I have my do it all bike with the fixer upper Charge Cooker from a few pages back. I don’t feel the full sus is going to be any use outside of doing proper days out so as far as hardtails go, m7100 spec drivetrain, codes, fox 36 and trinkets are all I’m going to push with this not that it’ll be a bad spec at all :)
 
Hey all. I'm in the market for a new second hand trail/enduro MTB. Looking for 650b from around 2014-2020 bikes to keep the price low.
Can anyone tell me if I am more likely to be a size L or a size XL in most frames? I am 6ft3 with shoes on, skinny/lanky and weigh about 12 stone wet.

Current bike is an ancient Specialized Stumpjumper from 2008 which is size L (Large). I looked at frame sizes today though and it seems a large is no longer err.... that large. For example, I pinged someone on an ebay ad about their height selling a Norco Sight 2015 bike in Large, and they were only 5ft8!
I don't want to get an XL and it feel like a bus. Equally I don't want to get an L and it feel like a kids bike. :)
 
Ah I forgot about this "plus" malarkey. If buying 27.5 inch bike now, should I care about buying frames/forks compatible with 27.5+ tyre sizes or are they not a popular thing anymore? I don't ideally want to buy into something that is dying out or going to be harder to get parts for going forward, like 26.
How does one differentiate between bikes that do accept 27.5 plus and those that don't? Ebay filter just has 27.5 as a size.
 
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jaybee said:
Can anyone tell me if I am more likely to be a size L or a size XL in most frames? I am 6ft3 with shoes on, skinny/lanky and weigh about 12 stone wet.
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Depends on the bike.
I'm 6"4 and went with an L


This was the size guide for my bike
Y2EdeRt.png


I had an XL hybrid years ago and it felt stupid big for me, no doubt an XL for my current EMTB would too.


my bikes a 29er though so idk if that makes any difference, the bike is pretty massive.

I wouldn't just assume you need an XL



jaybee said:
How does one differentiate between bikes that do accept 27.5 plus and those that don't? Ebay filter just has 27.5 as a size.
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Mullet is 650B (27.5) rear/ 29er front.


Mullet is the most common these days, followed by full 29ers
Bikes that can take a 29er/650b rear have a flip chip

There's no way to adjust the geometry to run a smaller/bigger front so if the bikes comes with a 650b front wheel, its never going to have a flip chip



They should either say flipchip or adjustable geometry in the description
 
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Yeah I'm 6'1" and have an L in Canyon sizes, and I'm near the bottom of the recommended height for that.

My son, who's within an inch of my height now, has an XL for his Cube, and that feels smaller than mine.
 
IF the bike is slightly too small though you might end up with too much weight over the front wheel.

that means you basically run higher air pressure in the front shock to compensate for the extra sag
which affects small bump performance or whatever the correct term is.
 
Today I decided I needed to fit a child seat to a bike, naturally it was decided that it was not under any circumstances going on my 4th child and I sure as hell wasn’t putting it on the 5th child when that I finally with us.

With this in mind the cooker has been modified one again. I’ve had to stop the thickness of the bar to a 31.8 so that I can fit the child handle bar and this means the old stem is back. I figured I’d rob the Deity grips off of it too and stick some “Funn” grips on that I found for a tenner.

Cooker transformation - Dad Machine.

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And then we we have a few bits thrown on to the Nukeproof.. the stem needs shortening about 2mm, once I’ve done that the headset with compress and it’ll all feel as it should, night and tight. I can then get the grips and the brakes on the bike.

Any recommendations on a dropper post? They seem to ship with a “Brand X - Ascend” in built bike form and they seem great value at around £100 inc lever. Once I have that and the seat post clamp purchased, all I need to do is wait for the drive train to turn up too and I can get it finished.

This thing looks very playful and rather slack in a mullet build!
:naughty:


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It was 1am, the picture is as good as it’s going to get!
 
So today I went and picked up a one-up dropper and a one-up lever to connect to the SRAM matchmaker on the brake lever mount.

As I was there I also picked up a seat post clamp from Burgtec however I do feel the hope one would probably have been a little better but it’s done now and I’m not complaining really.

The brakes are now mounted to the frame too, all I need now is the cassette to arrive and I can complete the bike by finalising that rear wheel and the drive train inc derailleur etc.

From bits knocking about the garage that I have re-used and parts purchased, I have built a bike that sits between the Elite (same drive train etc but better suspension, brakes, dropper) and the RS (slightly better drivetrain on RS but equal suspension, lesser brakes and lesser dropper post, alloy bar where as mine is carbon)..

All things considered, I’d say if one retails at £2500 and the other at £3k, I’d imagine this with the extras mine has and considering its with the worse drive train is probably on par. Not bad for a parts bin rummage and £480 spent on the frame and other bits it needed to get it built.

Proper chuffed!!
:grin:


I’ll get a pic up once I’ve throne it together without drivetrain.

Could do with a chain guide/bash guard though as I’ve gone mullet… will have to see.

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