Mountain Biking

Has anyone ever put tapered forks on a straight head tube with an adaptor?

Interested to hear any success/fail stories.

I love the geometry on my hardtail (I can quite literally ride it all day whereas the long/slack generation of bikes don't do me much good) but the forks are crap so I want to upgrade but it doesn't seem like there are any decent options for 100-120mm 29" xc forks with a straight steerer.

If it's not possible to whack a set of good tapered forks on then it's new bike time but I'd rather spend a few hundred quid than a couple of grand if at all possible!
 
Skillmister said:
Has anyone ever put tapered forks on a straight head tube with an adaptor?

Interested to hear any success/fail stories.

I love the geometry on my hardtail (I can quite literally ride it all day whereas the long/slack generation of bikes don't do me much good) but the forks are crap so I want to upgrade but it doesn't seem like there are any decent options for 100-120mm 29" xc forks with a straight steerer.

If it's not possible to whack a set of good tapered forks on then it's new bike time but I'd rather spend a few hundred quid than a couple of grand if at all possible!
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My current bike has a straight tube and in using a tapered fork.
Just needed the correct hope top and bottom headset. No different to any other setup really.
 
How have people gone "Tubeless" if at all, a friend went tubeless on his Voodoo bizango and it cost him £90 for Halfords to do it plus tyres?

Tempted to do it myself
 
Did it on my full suss. Front wheel worked perfectly first time. Rear wheel took 2 attempts and still isn't right as it is sometimes flat when I go into the garage if it's been a week between rides.

The main reason I did it was because I found it so difficult to get the tyres off the tubeless compatible wheels that I was genuinely worried about getting stuck in the middle of nowhere with a punctured tube unable to get the wheel off to put in a replacement! (dodgy thumb so I can't apply full pressure with my left but I've been on group rides where its taken a team effort to get it off before) Obviously the risk is still there if I slash a tyre but hopefully less likely.

I haven't bothered with the hardtail as its running slime tubes and has done 4 figure mileage without any punctures
 
Tubeless is the first thing anyone with a new mtb should do.

I use Tesa 4289 tape (various widths available), orange seal endurance sealant (tested and confirmed to seal a puncture after a year of being in a tyre), and for valves - either a cheap set of eBay tubeless valves, or on my mtb which has rimpact inserts, the excellent rimpact valves.

If you can't seat the tyre, and it's a bit too easy to fit onto the rim, put a couple more wraps of tape on.
 
dtokez said:
What products do you recommended, sealant and valve wise?
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I've done about 5+ wheelsets all with gorrila tape and stans sealant. I normally use stans valves, but I've used others on friends.

The biggest thing is lubricating the rim and tyre and using a tank type pump.

iMacMart said:
Thanks gents, how do I know if my rims and tyres are “tubeless ready” as they call it?
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Have a google. Also the tyres will say TR on them, the rims should have a code etc to google it.

TallPaul_S said:
Tubeless is the first thing anyone with a new mtb should do.

I use Tesa 4289 tape (various widths available), orange seal endurance sealant (tested and confirmed to seal a puncture after a year of being in a tyre), and for valves - either a cheap set of eBay tubeless valves, or on my mtb which has rimpact inserts, the excellent rimpact valves.

If you can't seat the tyre, and it's a bit too easy to fit onto the rim, put a couple more wraps of tape on.
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How are you getting on with rimpact? I'm very tempted.
 
Begbie said:
How are you getting on with rimpact? I'm very tempted.
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I've only done 100 miles on the bike so not really tested them out yet, they were quite tricky to fit though.

They seem good so far, at low pressure the tyres feel solid, I don't see any reason why they won't do thier job, and there's almost no weight penalty.
 
kefkef said:
New bike ordered on C2W scheme today! :eek:

Orbea Rallon M20 with Fox factory shock/forks upgrade. Delivery early February!
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wish they had delivery times like that when i got my Rallon, was 4 months i had to wait.
just uped the fork travel and fitted the new shock linkage to make it 2020 spec. new linkage is much better with the coil shock.
 
TallPaul_S said:
I've only done 100 miles on the bike so not really tested them out yet, they were quite tricky to fit though.

They seem good so far, at low pressure the tyres feel solid, I don't see any reason why they won't do thier job, and there's almost no weight penalty.
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sound similar to my vittoria airliner i use in being a bit tricky to fit the tyre onto the rim.
wouldn't be without it now, rear rim has no dings in it at all after 18 months and i had a reputation as being a wheelwrecker before fitting it. run nice low pressures and even rode a mile or so back to the van with a sliced tyre no problem.
 
TallPaul_S said:
I've only done 100 miles on the bike so not really tested them out yet, they were quite tricky to fit though.

They seem good so far, at low pressure the tyres feel solid, I don't see any reason why they won't do thier job, and there's almost no weight penalty.
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Did you go for the pro version or the orginal?
 
It was only the original version when I bought mine, tbh I probably don't need the pro version - time will tell as I'm planning some more gnarly riding this year - wales/peaks, lakes, scotland etc. natural and trail centres.

It's nice to be able to run around 20psi (in 2.35 tyres) with no worries, I regard 25psi as high pressure now :D
 
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