Mountain Biking

Did it on my full suss. Front wheel worked perfectly first time. Rear wheel took 2 attempts and still isn't right as it is sometimes flat when I go into the garage if it's been a week between rides.

The main reason I did it was because I found it so difficult to get the tyres off the tubeless compatible wheels that I was genuinely worried about getting stuck in the middle of nowhere with a punctured tube unable to get the wheel off to put in a replacement! (dodgy thumb so I can't apply full pressure with my left but I've been on group rides where its taken a team effort to get it off before) Obviously the risk is still there if I slash a tyre but hopefully less likely.

I haven't bothered with the hardtail as its running slime tubes and has done 4 figure mileage without any punctures
 
Tubeless is the first thing anyone with a new mtb should do.

I use Tesa 4289 tape (various widths available), orange seal endurance sealant (tested and confirmed to seal a puncture after a year of being in a tyre), and for valves - either a cheap set of eBay tubeless valves, or on my mtb which has rimpact inserts, the excellent rimpact valves.

If you can't seat the tyre, and it's a bit too easy to fit onto the rim, put a couple more wraps of tape on.
 
dtokez said:
What products do you recommended, sealant and valve wise?
Click to expand...

I've done about 5+ wheelsets all with gorrila tape and stans sealant. I normally use stans valves, but I've used others on friends.

The biggest thing is lubricating the rim and tyre and using a tank type pump.

iMacMart said:
Thanks gents, how do I know if my rims and tyres are “tubeless ready” as they call it?
Click to expand...


Have a google. Also the tyres will say TR on them, the rims should have a code etc to google it.

TallPaul_S said:
Tubeless is the first thing anyone with a new mtb should do.

I use Tesa 4289 tape (various widths available), orange seal endurance sealant (tested and confirmed to seal a puncture after a year of being in a tyre), and for valves - either a cheap set of eBay tubeless valves, or on my mtb which has rimpact inserts, the excellent rimpact valves.

If you can't seat the tyre, and it's a bit too easy to fit onto the rim, put a couple more wraps of tape on.
Click to expand...


How are you getting on with rimpact? I'm very tempted.
 
Begbie said:
How are you getting on with rimpact? I'm very tempted.
Click to expand...
I've only done 100 miles on the bike so not really tested them out yet, they were quite tricky to fit though.

They seem good so far, at low pressure the tyres feel solid, I don't see any reason why they won't do thier job, and there's almost no weight penalty.
 
kefkef said:
New bike ordered on C2W scheme today! :eek:

Orbea Rallon M20 with Fox factory shock/forks upgrade. Delivery early February!
Click to expand...

wish they had delivery times like that when i got my Rallon, was 4 months i had to wait.
just uped the fork travel and fitted the new shock linkage to make it 2020 spec. new linkage is much better with the coil shock.
 
TallPaul_S said:
I've only done 100 miles on the bike so not really tested them out yet, they were quite tricky to fit though.

They seem good so far, at low pressure the tyres feel solid, I don't see any reason why they won't do thier job, and there's almost no weight penalty.
Click to expand...

sound similar to my vittoria airliner i use in being a bit tricky to fit the tyre onto the rim.
wouldn't be without it now, rear rim has no dings in it at all after 18 months and i had a reputation as being a wheelwrecker before fitting it. run nice low pressures and even rode a mile or so back to the van with a sliced tyre no problem.
 
TallPaul_S said:
I've only done 100 miles on the bike so not really tested them out yet, they were quite tricky to fit though.

They seem good so far, at low pressure the tyres feel solid, I don't see any reason why they won't do thier job, and there's almost no weight penalty.
Click to expand...

Did you go for the pro version or the orginal?
 
It was only the original version when I bought mine, tbh I probably don't need the pro version - time will tell as I'm planning some more gnarly riding this year - wales/peaks, lakes, scotland etc. natural and trail centres.

It's nice to be able to run around 20psi (in 2.35 tyres) with no worries, I regard 25psi as high pressure now :D
 
living in the lakes and its rocky riding i usually run about 23psi in the rear just to be on the safe side but anytime i'm racing drop down to 20. used to have to run high 20's before i fitted the liner and was still always doing tyres and rims.
 
Must be the tyres. I'm using Nobby nic performance. Though I'm not finding them a particular great tyre they don't seem to give me any confidence in the corners.
Probably go back to high roller on the front dhr2 on the rear.
 
Begbie said:
I've done about 5+ wheelsets all with gorrila tape and stans sealant. I normally use stans valves, but I've used others on friends.
Click to expand...

Thanks man. What is the gorilla tape for? I was under the impression if the rims were tubeless ready, they were just ready to go?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom