Will you be videoing this Fluke?
Multirotor, multicopter and quadcopter discussion - The Drone thread
- Thread starter RomanNose
- Start date
Will you be videoing this Fluke?
Yeah gotta video a stand up paddle board competition... Will have some floats on skids just in case the worse happens and start filming cod
Good choice! I'm glad I made my own to start with as you pick up valuable knowledge and will be able to repair it which is an essential skill. The KK2.0 is also great, you learn fast as you either have control or you crash, no RTH or loiter to save you so you learn to fly out of necessity.
Looks posh Rilot! Going to be epic though
Looking forward to more video Flukester. Got a workmate who is wanting to lend me a gopro to try on mine, not sure what options I'll have for mounting it initially, will see what the gopros have by default nearer the time.
I've mock built up the frame on mine to get an idea of where I will place things. Thinking forwards to test flights. Would you say screw lock glue is utterly vital? Or should I be ok trying a flight or two as a test before going that far? I don't really want to glue things together then change my mind. Or is that sort of glue not actually that strong?
Currently thinking whether to fit the KK2 at the top exposed, or fit it between the layers to protect it. If the view angle on the lcd is ok I'll go straight for between I think.
Edit - think I might have a knackered motor. Bearings don't sound good when I spin it. There is also a bit of play between the base and the spinning outer body. Worth trying still? Or am I better off not risking trying to fly with it?
Looking forward to more video Flukester. Got a workmate who is wanting to lend me a gopro to try on mine, not sure what options I'll have for mounting it initially, will see what the gopros have by default nearer the time.
I've mock built up the frame on mine to get an idea of where I will place things. Thinking forwards to test flights. Would you say screw lock glue is utterly vital? Or should I be ok trying a flight or two as a test before going that far? I don't really want to glue things together then change my mind. Or is that sort of glue not actually that strong?
Currently thinking whether to fit the KK2 at the top exposed, or fit it between the layers to protect it. If the view angle on the lcd is ok I'll go straight for between I think.
Edit - think I might have a knackered motor. Bearings don't sound good when I spin it. There is also a bit of play between the base and the spinning outer body. Worth trying still? Or am I better off not risking trying to fly with it?
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See how it sounds when it spins up but I probably wouldn't risk it. A motor failure on a quad will initiate the high-speed RTE (return to earth) function.
I thought one of my new motors was duff too, I had a distinct click when turning it. However it was just the motor bell having moved on the shaft a little causing some play, I just needed to undo the grub screws, push the bell and base together while doing up the grub screws.
That's the plan, hopefully. I'll avoid the crashing as much as I can.
Shall be getting the kits and bits from HobbyKing probably. Maybe one or two things from GiantShark.
shall post a parts list if I get round to speccing it up on the weekend for you all to critique
Spent this evening planning how I'm going to do the layout and the power cabling: (ps.... props are there for show - not the final pairs)
(rest assured when I start building tomorrow I'll take some better pics)
White end being the front. ESCs all mounted under the arms, I've bought some triple block 3.5mm bullet connectors that I'll probably use on the end of the ESCs for the motors to plug into. Although I might drop the connector part and just stick with plain bullets - depends how fiddly it is
KK2.0 is just going to sit on top of the foam case it came with where I can see it easily, bit of stick tape to on the back to hold it roughly in place then either cable tied in place or use elastic bands to stop it moving in case of a jerky landing.
Battery is going sideways in between the 2 layers, need to get some velcro to wrap around it to hold it in place, but pretty sure I have some lying around from a computer cable tidying set.
The input ends of the ESCs will all be soldered onto some plates in the middle (above the battery) - if all goes well I might end up using the motor mount bits that came from the motor accessory packs. Nice cross shape with holes in it to solder into easily, add in some heatshrink and a bit of electrical tape and they should be nicely insulated from grounding anywhere.
Receiver will sit on the back with the aerial above it. Front is nice and empty for adding a camera/fpv kit in the future. I realised earlier that some of the Fat Shark all in one sets are actually a lot cheaper than I realised. Something for the xmas/bday wish list maybe!
Only worry (dodgy motor aside) I have is that I didn't buy any 12AWG cable to go from the plates to the 4mm connectors on the battery. Is anywhere like B&Q or Jewsons going to sell something suitable? Or will I need to hunt down a hobby shop / order online?
(rest assured when I start building tomorrow I'll take some better pics)
White end being the front. ESCs all mounted under the arms, I've bought some triple block 3.5mm bullet connectors that I'll probably use on the end of the ESCs for the motors to plug into. Although I might drop the connector part and just stick with plain bullets - depends how fiddly it is
KK2.0 is just going to sit on top of the foam case it came with where I can see it easily, bit of stick tape to on the back to hold it roughly in place then either cable tied in place or use elastic bands to stop it moving in case of a jerky landing.
Battery is going sideways in between the 2 layers, need to get some velcro to wrap around it to hold it in place, but pretty sure I have some lying around from a computer cable tidying set.
The input ends of the ESCs will all be soldered onto some plates in the middle (above the battery) - if all goes well I might end up using the motor mount bits that came from the motor accessory packs. Nice cross shape with holes in it to solder into easily, add in some heatshrink and a bit of electrical tape and they should be nicely insulated from grounding anywhere.
Receiver will sit on the back with the aerial above it. Front is nice and empty for adding a camera/fpv kit in the future. I realised earlier that some of the Fat Shark all in one sets are actually a lot cheaper than I realised. Something for the xmas/bday wish list maybe!
Only worry (dodgy motor aside) I have is that I didn't buy any 12AWG cable to go from the plates to the 4mm connectors on the battery. Is anywhere like B&Q or Jewsons going to sell something suitable? Or will I need to hunt down a hobby shop / order online?
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Looking good ^^
Quick question to those with the hubsan, does there hover properly? mine drifts a lot in doors. Wondering if i need to play with trim. Also finding it difficult to maintain a height. It'll either start going up or going down. Can get it pretty level about a foot off the ground. Could be me, or could just be that facts its a £30 coptor
Quick question to those with the hubsan, does there hover properly? mine drifts a lot in doors. Wondering if i need to play with trim. Also finding it difficult to maintain a height. It'll either start going up or going down. Can get it pretty level about a foot off the ground. Could be me, or could just be that facts its a £30 coptor
If you've calibrated the gyros (the wiggle the right stick with left stick at bottom right) on flat ground and have all the trims set straight it should stay pretty much still. It'll almost certainly start drifting a little despite this, but it shouldn't do so to the point of being difficult to catch.
As for the height, practise makes perfect. It's doable if you keep the input smooth.
As for the height, practise makes perfect. It's doable if you keep the input smooth.
Got my new props today, and back to trying to get the Y6 to fly. My question is do i need to connect up a channel to the AUX input of the KK2.0 to turn on the auto level, as I've been trying without it. Noticed on boot up that it says that there's no signal, so right now i have one of the pots on the Transmitter connected to it. I'm using the Hobbyking 6 channel transmitter, and the switches next to the pots don't seam to be changing the state of the channel on and off as id expect.
Hope i manage to explain that propperly.
Looking a little takky, but ill sort that out once its flying.
Hope i manage to explain that propperly.
Looking a little takky, but ill sort that out once its flying.
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I don't think you need to have the auto level configured to toggle on the aux channel, but it definitely seems to be the recommended thing to do.
When you say you've got no signal, is that just on that particular channel, or all? Maybe you need to program something into the controller.
Sorry I can't help more, I've not got that far on connecting mine yet! Re: the controller programming, it's half the reason I stumped out for the Turnigy 9x despite it having more channels than I'll ever need!
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Looking good ^^
Quick question to those with the hubsan, does there hover properly? mine drifts a lot in doors. Wondering if i need to play with trim. Also finding it difficult to maintain a height. It'll either start going up or going down. Can get it pretty level about a foot off the ground. Could be me, or could just be that facts its a £30 coptor
If you have calibrated it as others have said (I do mine in expert mode) and also calibrated the controller with the trims set too then it shouldn't drift a great deal.
The problem your probably having is due to flying indoors, The props create a lot of wind and inside it affects the hubsan. On a non windy day it should hover pretty level outside, Maintaining height comes with practice but you should also know that as the batteries run down you will need more stick input to control the hubsan as thats the way lipo batteries work from what I have read.
It's relatively easy to work out once you know
Say you have a 4000mAh (4Ah) 30C 3S battery, that means the maximum current it can discharge is 4A x 30 = 120A
If you know the power used by your motors and battery voltage you can find out the max current draw e.g. say the motors are 250W max. (from specs it seems the 2212-13 on 3S are about 200W so you have some safety margin) on a 3S that would be 250W/12.6V = ~20A per motor
You have six motors 20A x 6 = 120A
So a 4000mAh 20C should be fine as we factored in some safety in the motor power, under normal flying you'll never get near 120A anyway as you're unlikely to be WOT for an extended period of time.
It's relatively easy to work out once you know
Say you have a 4000mAh (4Ah) 30C 3S battery, that means the maximum current it can discharge is 4A x 30 = 120A
If you know the power used by your motors and battery voltage you can find out the max current draw e.g. say the motors are 250W max. (from specs it seems the 2212-13 on 3S are about 200W so you have some safety margin) on a 3S that would be 250W/12.6V = ~20A per motor
You have six motors 20A x 6 = 120A
So a 4000mAh 20C should be fine as we factored in some safety in the motor power, under normal flying you'll never get near 120A anyway as you're unlikely to be WOT for an extended period of time.
Excellent,thanks for that.