Multirotor, multicopter and quadcopter discussion - The Drone thread

pazza said:
This is everything you need to get started.
http://quadcopters.co.uk/fatshark-predator-video-goggles-v2-full-set-inc-camera-687-p.asp
It does require better antenna's though.
Your transmitter will work fine with this.
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Thanks.
Going to need to save a little for that if thats the best way to go (which it seems it is)

Narj said:
The FPV setup is standalone, it doesn't need to talk to your Tx. These systems work on 5.8GHz so make sure your controller isn't on that frequency.

The Fatshark battery can be charged by a standard Lipo charger - they don't give you a charger with the setup (despite the fact that the manual says use supplied charger only!).

The range seems fine on 250mW as long as there are no trees or other obstructions in the way. I've flown my P2 plenty far away and still had good video. About 400m out with FPV IIRC. I'm not that brave yet, and where I fly regularly means I can't go much further without getting to within about 300 metres of housing.
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Thanks Narj.
I shan't be doing anything extreme!
Col_M said:
One thing to remember about range; antenna type, quality and gain are far more important than outright transmitter power.

Anything from 200-600mw with some good skew planar antennas will see you out to 2km, far further than you need on a quad. I even have a video on youtube where I picked up some guy's plane on the same 5.8GHz VTx channel who was 4-5km away with one of Gav's antennas on my FatSharks.
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;) Thanks. Electronics degree comes in handy for this stuff!
 
Trying to find out why my quad is yawing, so ive take the motors off and shortened the shaft on the motor. Whilst off had a good look at all four motors found that 3 of them turn smoothly and the fourth was rough when turned. So ive cut the shaft down as i was building them back up, putting the props on this happened


i broke the prop holder, as they came with the motor you cannot buy them seperatly, so now ive got to buy a new motor which should also fix the other issue i had as well ;(
 
not the same ones, so i would have to change all four of them. But then i may need a new motor as one of them was rough to turn, will get a new complete kit so will motor spares
 
not the best time of day I know so the offer will probably be over before anyone sees this but you can pre order one of these nano quads for a huge £16! , and that's RTF :eek:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2032327

6% back on quidco as well http://www.quidco.com/tmart/

qIjCm0y.jpg.png
 
Been looking into and weighing up the RPQ-s training and because it's per craft we're considering on going all-in and future proofing ourselves with an octocopter.

Don't suppose anyone has, or has used, the DJI S1000?
 
What props is everyone using? I'm getting a little fed up with the quality (or lack of) with the generic Hobbyking slowflyers. A little while ago I got a bag of random unbranded 1047 props from a local hobby shop (they were hideously priced mind) which were fantastic, both balance and durability wise.
 
I use either graupners or xoar,not cheap though,ive also been trying out HQ props on my mini frames,they seem pretty good too
 
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9x5 RCTimer carbon on the Disco
9x4.7 things from HK on my 450

I have thought about paying more but I'd rather have fun breaking cheap props than being wary of flying too close to the ground/rocks/goalposts/trees etc. and damaging expensive props :)

In other news I have a CC3D arriving tomorrow which will go in a 250 size mini quad when the parts come :D
Because I want to do this...
 
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Not sure yet, I've ordered everything bar the frame.

There are some nice frames like the Blackout Mini H and QAV250 but they're way overpriced for what they are.
I'm leaning towards making my own out of G10 or CFRP, they're simple enough being flat sheet material.
 
I looked at both of them, overpriced like you said.

I've got some G10 sheets left over from the Tri I built so I was looking at going that way with a quad. Would a 250 size be too small for me? Not flown a quad before. Can't be no more difficult than a Tri / Heli? Has to be some plans on RCGROUPS for a decent 250 frame?
 
The Drq 250 is pretty nice,better price than the Blackout and Qav.

Heres mine:

drq5.jpg



Take a look at the website,its a great frame for the price compared to the others.

http://droneframes.com/shop/index.php?id_product=30&controller=product






Heres my Diy 250mm frame using plywood and 10mm x 10mm carbon fibre square tubes for arms.

pocket4.jpg


Designed it in libre cad,printed onto some cardboard then taped it to the plywood and used a
dremel to cut the shape out.
 
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Liking that DIY Wooden frame pazza! Very tidy. Would be easy to forget that's just made of wood with the paint job. What motor/prop combo is that on there?

Currently still intending to finish a build out of PVC piping but not had much time recently and motivation isn't too high what with the rubbish weather!
Think I just need to stock up with some CF/Aluminium tubing, various bolts and some plywood and play about as if I was a big kid with Lego :p
 
Thanks,

Im using these motors:Turnigy Aerodrive SK3 - 2122-2100kv Brushless Outrunner Motor

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=36817

There really powerfull,can carry a 3700 mah 3s battery and still hover at 50%,the battery is almost as big as the frame.

The only thing i dont like is the old rubber prop savers,but so far havent had any problems at all with them.

She flies just as good as the more expensive frames and cost around £8 to build.

This crappy weathers had the opposite effect on me,ive be building way too many quadcopters.
 
rishy said:
With the APM, do i need a power module to power it or can i come from the ESC
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You can, just set the jumper JP1

Using ESC UBEC - bridge JP1 jumper
Using Power Module - Don't use JP1

The jumper just connects the APM's 5V rail to the 5V supply from the ESC UBEC, if you're using a power module you break the circuit as the BEC and power module can interfere with each other.
 
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Col_M said:
You can, just set the jumper JP1

Using ESC UBEC - bridge JP1 jumper
Using Power Module - Don't use JP1

The jumper just connects the APM's 5V rail to the 5V supply from the ESC UBEC, if you're using a power module you break the circuit as the BEC and power module can interfere with each other.
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I havent got a power module so i need to connect JP1. All four of my ESC are UBEC. Do i need to only power via 1 ESC and cut the power leads on the other 3 ESC or do connect all 4 esc with power to the APM.

Just asking as i dont want to burn it out.

Should be gettting it delivered tomorrow
 
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