My 200mph budget build

[turbotoaster]

its going reasonably well, there should hopefully be an update in the morning if some parts arrive, if not ill be updating it on monday.

start saving my friend, they are worth it, but if you ever go buy one check the compression of the engine and also if its on the original engine.

once they reach a certain age the water seals go brittle and break(normally around 70k miles)

to be fair its not really how many miles its done, its how many times its been brought up to temperature.

If the car was daily driver that had to be driven 150miles in one go every day then 70k isnt nothing to be worried about, but if the car only gets driven say 5miles a day then thats a lot of heat circuits the rubber water seals has been through to which cause brittleness and then you need to rebuild.

If you get to the point where you have £3k give me a shout and ill help you look for the right one.

£10k for 200mph/700bhp.....not that bad when you think about it, theres no way to go faster for less!!

 

[turbotoaster]

Rolling resistance isnt the problem compared to air resistance which is exponential and at these speeds it'll be like pushing a brick wall or another car in front, sideways http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jF6EiLn8bto


Whats the cd factor, frontal area, air resistance estimated for 200mph ?


Good idea on not doing standing starts but ultimately its this bit of maths which will determine success or not I think

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drag_(physics)#Drag_at_high_velocity

I think thats the right equation & fluid density is a constant . Im sure this must have been mentioned by someone or can be quite easily worked out now.
I'd be interested to know just how much power will be required anyhow, I didnt spot it on the thread


Will your car have a roll cage for this and might be best to wear proper head support also http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HANS_device




In case no one else mentions it, polish your car well before you do your attempt.
If you intend to go as fast as an aircraft then surface drag will count towards the power required just a bit I think, worth doing considering it only costs elbow grease
And take off the number plates also I think or tape up the front even, not sure, one for the boffins that but it does matter, probably more then tyre rolling resistances

http://www.kilowatt-house.com/kilowatt-car

Exactly, to do 200mph within the distance of the airfield will take about 650bhp to achieve, my aim for the car is 700bhp to give me a bit of lee-way so that i dont have to do loads of runs to hit my target figure.

A 4 door new shape toyota corolla that was running a 650bhp engine with 4x4, now that car will have a much larger frontal area that mine and have larger drivetrain losses so will be putting down less power to the wheels, hence why i think i should be pretty comfortable with my power figures

The drag co-efficient of my car is 0.31 and the total front area is 1.79m2 if that helps with your figures, but i dont know what the air resistance will be so if anyone wants to chip in with that im happy to hear it

The only thing with that is that this is a bit more of a sprint race because of the short distance, if i had unlimited distance then i think it could be achieve with around 550bhp(assuming gearing is spot on etc) but thats just a guess.

The car wont have a rollcage, i may wear a helmet if someone will lend me one, but due to the large amount of land i have to play with unless someone shoots me with a missle launcher(dons tin foil hat) then i should be fine.

In terms of extra 'slippyness' i do have some proven data from america to help with that.

Removing the door mirrors gained 2mph at 190mph+ Taping up all the seams agained another 1mph so they will be done on the day, also a good polish will be put on as even if it gains me 0.1mph then thats worth it.

I remember reading along time ago that the difference between a clean polished mini(old style) and a dirty one was 2mph topend.....cant remember where i read that and might be complete rubbish though.

 

[turbotoaster]

Little update, my quickshift arrived today, yes it wont have any benefits for top speed but just fancied one.

simple design

Its actually a B&M replica but its actually better than the real thing because the real ones are made out of aluminum, yes thats great for weight but there is a flaw in that the material isnt strong enough in my opinion, infact i snapped one in half at the drag strip so i know it isnt.

The replicas are made all steel so while they are heavier, they are also stronger.

ok time to install!!

stock

remove gearknob, just unscrews

remove covering

remove rubber sound deadening/wind resistance thingy

remove stick and bolts hold in, hit with hammer to break seal, becareful of gear oil going everywhere

pull plastic boot off original and fit to new quick shift

bolt new quickshift down with supplied washers and bolts

replace rubber covers, replace big plastic cover, reconnect switches, good as new

Well first impressions, my god!! Its so short and feels like im using a completely different box, gonna take some practice on the gear changes as it is very notchy, reminds me of a HKS dog box in a GTR that i once drove, it should settle down as i break it in but feels pretty made at the moment!

 

[turbotoaster]

Just a thought, but wouldnt it be easier for you to buy a second hand front bumper and fiber glass over all the cooling ducts/smooth the edges off, then just use the standard intercooler covered in ice for the duration of the run? The charge temps will easily be cool enough if you arent doing back to back runs and it will make a big difference to your aerodynamics.

Not a chance mate, putting 100lbs of air through a standard cooler wont be cool enough by a long way, being covered in ice wont make a difference enough to off set that kind of heat.

Also it will be a size restriction in the system, its like putting a resister in the circuit.

the option you may be thinking of is the bonnieville rx7 from racing beat that did the same thing with the front end by making it all one piece.

The difference is that they ran a compund charged triple rotor engine that made 900bhp, this was compound charged and also running a chargecooler setup so it could afford to have its front end closed off.

Rotarys run very hot so its not advisable to cover the cooling ducts for the oil coolers that the rotary engine heavierly relys upon(more than a piston engine) then staying at full throttle for 30secs+

In all honesty that would make next to no difference. Its not a solar racer where you can't even put stickers on them incase you breakup the laminar airflow over it.

The airflow over the car will be turblent with a significant boundary layer between the moving air and paint surface therefore the actual finish of the paint wont really make a difference.

Your probably right to be fair, but since the car is going to be in the magazine ill give it a wash and a polish anyway so cant really hurt it

 

[turbotoaster]

that may be useful, i have a co2 extinguisher in the house but depends whether im gonna use it, i dont think its really needed, maybe blast the intercooler for a few seconds before the run, it may help a tiny bit with accelaration before 120mph but doubt it will help a lot after

Ill be using a pre turbo water injection system which will spray pure water into the turbocharger to cool the air coming out of it before it enters the intercooler, that should help keep my temperatures where i want it.

also because it will be about 800cc/min of water, a lot of that water will pass through the intercooler and enter the engine to act to resist det.

Im not expecting the intercooler to do all the work even if it is massive

So overall it should be pretty effiecient

 

[turbotoaster]

god yeh thats going back a bit, yep, loved that massive cooler, 35psi of boost and 30c inlet temps was nice, i actually think i remember you from back then, though it is a little hazy.

What you driving around in now?

 

[turbotoaster]

cheers, ill put another update on monday hopefully

 

[turbotoaster]

its a place called bruntingthorpe, its an old RAF base, basically you get to use the 2mile runway to do whatever you like.

http://www.bruntingthorpe.com/index.html

because normally you go if your car is gonna appear in a magazine they pay for it, because of safety team there should the worse go wrong i think they charge £50 an hour to hire the place out.

Sounds a lot but only real place you can legally go for a top speed around here.

You dont have to have a mag to let you go, if you get a load of people you could hire it out for the day.

Say 7hrs is £450, split that between 10 of you and its worth it

 

[turbotoaster]

Well thats what one of the guys from a ford magazine told me that its £50 an hour as they use it a lot to test cars who claim big power etc and do features on them.

theres normally other vehicles there aswell, manufactures testing cars/bikes etc so you might get a chance to see cars that arnt in production aswell.

When i spoke to stav from redline(the mag im going in) he said he needs 24hrs notice and thats it, calls them to book for the next day and job done

 

[turbotoaster]

radiator arrived today so i did some marking up to see if my theory matched real life

Another ebay purchase

No damage

thickness of end tanks

thickness of core

Marking up placement

Pretty tight!!

Checking for leaks

One the issues with running an intercooler of 120mm thickness is that you struggle to cool the water temps due to the restriction of air getting to the radiator.

By only covering half the radiator with the rad you gain the benefit of a thick intercooler and a lot of air passing though the rad, thats my theory behind why this should work so fingers crossed.

Just need to get my intercooler over the local aluminum welding place to cut it to my specs

 

[turbotoaster]

That runway looks fun

bit safer than down the motorway i think

 

[turbotoaster]

yep i remember it, dick dastardly on the forums, he was a decent enough chap, i did always wonder what happened to the car.

Seems this forum is obsessed with either mondeos or 3 series bmws, must be half their national car sales just on here haha.

 

[turbotoaster]

Thought you might appreciate the tenacity of this guy, WRC $500 car

http://jalopnik.com/5497042/how-a-500-craigslist-car-beat-400k-rally-racers

yeh i read that, thought it was brilliant, love how he just fixes things and all the mexicans loving him because he was RWD, a man after my own heart!

 

[turbotoaster]

Since the car will run 60psi base pressure of fuel and the engine will need 6000cc/min of fuel at peak power i worked out id need 360 litres per hour worth of pumping power.

now pumps that you see the specs for arnt rated for that certain fuel pressure.

A 305LPH flows 230LPH at 60psi so im gonna run 2 pumps to give 460LPH

These are gonna be both intank strapped together

ill be using a Y piece to connect the to pumps together inside the tank....2x -6 to a -8 Y piece

Then -8 fuel line running to a -8 fuel filter, then -8 fuel line to a Y piece with 2x -6 to split to the 2 fuel rails.

the primary rail will be running the original 550cc injectors(obviously at 60psi fuel pressure they will be higher, maybe 600cc)

the secondary rail will be running ID 2200cc injectors(at 60psi will be 2500cc)

the reverse will be the same as above as a Y piece will connect them back up together before heading to the FPR, that line will be -8

Through the FPR and a -8 return line back the tank.


I know that might not be written very well but this is my first go at setting up a fuel system and im not really sure the easiest way to explain it so i have included a picture.

If someone can see if theres anything i have done wrong i would really appreciate it

For refence the reason the the rails connect back together with a Y piece before going to the FPR is because ill be using the stock FPR and injectors for a while until i buy my rail/injectors/FPR at a later date, at that time ill send each injector rail outlet into the 2 inlets on the adjustable FPR

thanks

 

[turbotoaster]

Got bored today so decided to put the battery in the boot, it needed doing to make room for my intercooler/rad setup

Sorry for lack of pics going through it all but it was raining hard and didnt want to spend forever outside

removed from engine bay and ran live feed to rear of car

bolted tray down to chassis then built everything else back up, connect live and ran earth wire to a bolt hole near by

 

[turbotoaster]

yeh, checked with earls and they are rated to 18000cc per minute and I only need 6000cc, so plenty good enough, not gonna run 2 as they are £50 each and they are rebuildable, just put new element once a year.....mazda stock ones are £50 so should save me some money in the future

 

[turbotoaster]

i prefer to get someone to do my wind tunnel testing for me

 

[turbotoaster]

i did wonder that, if i ran 2 separate fuel lines down the car id imagine it would but im using just one big line to make plumbing easier, like you say, even if i dont get that, i still have enough in hand to cover myself

Im gonna use an adjustable fuel pressure regulator to up the pressure

 

[turbotoaster]

i did consider that, infact that would work fine on stock fuel pressure and small injectors and i have seen it plumbed like that on another car, that might infact be a better option as it saves using a few Y pieces, the only concern is the flow.

Im going to be using 12.7mm fuel line from the pumps to the rails, because of the internal size of the stock small rail there would be a restriction in the flow of the system.

By running them in parellel with 2 9.65mm i wont get that restriction problem, the only restriction will be the FPR which is its job anyway.


There are many ways to break an egg and with unlimited budget this build would look completely different than it currently is, but due to the budget i have set myself i need to be very careful in my designs because every penny spent is a penny i cant get back.

 

[turbotoaster]

it really doesnt take a lot of time to do, its more planning than actually practical that spent most of my time and even that was just the odd hour a day researching and thinking.

I think anyone with a decent grasp of engineering, logical thinking and a bit of passion could achieve everything im going to do