Need for Speed Time Trial Championship ** Season 2 ** (Multiplatform)

grs_link said:
got off work early today.. so I finally managed to put a few laps in..
found it a bit boring to be honest.. but anyway..

by setting downforce to 0 and tunning a bit the gearbox.. gave me this:
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Very good time grs. In fact everybody sub 54.5 has a very good time.
grs has the right idea here, you need minimal downforce levels. Certainly the rear wing should be set no higher than level 2 to minimise drag once you get used to taking the corners.
T-1 - You should be braking from 6th down to 5th for this turn if your gearing is set right. On the approach DON'T whack on the brakes, dab the brakes whilst dropping to 5th. Off the brakes turn in & try to follow the racing line without scrubbing too much speed off. It doesn't matter too much if you run the wide curbing on the exit, try & take the corner with the least amount of resistance (tyres screeching). Accelerating towards the next turn you should be changing up to 6th around the pit exit on your right.
T-2 - Two ways to take this corner. 1. Brake early just as you enter the red zone dropping to 3rd, turn in & hug the curbing round the whole corner i.e. well inside the predicted racing line. 2. Brake later well into the red zone dropping to 3rd, as your coming off the brakes turn in & power round following the racing line. This is where you may be experiencing the juddering I mentioned in an earlier post. If you are, soften the rear suspension by one notch until it's eliminated.
T-3 - Again two ways to approach this turn. 1. On approach you should be red lining 6th gear. Brake late dropping to 4th & power round just missing the left curbing (if you take too much curb the front pushes out forcing you too wide for T-5). 2. Brake early dropping to 4th, (some may prefer 3rd for a little extra bite) aim to ride A LOT of the curbing on the left. (You can have ALL four wheels on this curb without incurring a penalty)
T-5 - Try not to run too wide of the apex. The racing line is a good indicator of the line you should take. You can be quite aggressive with the car here, power sliding round. Changing down from 4th to 3rd turn in (no brakes) & power round feathering the throttle when necessary until you see the exit then straighten the steering to maximise traction for the run up to the start/finish.
 
Marine Iguana said:
Yeah very happy with the way it went i should be able to get into the 53's i think seems reasonable had a few corners that could have been better and i will switch to manual to.
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Where I gain or adversely lose time is in the last sequence T-4 & T-5. I can green the first two sectors only to screw up that sequence & wreck my lap time.
I reckon with everything coming together I could see a 53.5 but not much better than that.
Also another point of note, we're getting so used to this game it's only taking a couple of days to get near your limit, where before we needed the whole week. Generally speaking of course.
 
Marine Iguana said:
Turn 2 into 3 is where i lose time i either don't brake enough or too much whilst dropping the gears and end up bogged down once i have a play with 3rd gear i might be a bit better it's just not in the right rev range for me at the moment.
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My brake balance is set to 62.5.
Gearing - Final drive is set one notch right of default
6th is one notch from full left. Spread the other gears in between evenly using the graph. Then tweak to your preference.
I'm doing this from memory so apologies for not being more accurate.

Edit - Sorry are you still using auto at the mo?
 
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Little quicker
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Uploading a vid of a Full session to mostly to show how hard it is to be consistent with this weeks combo. You'll see what I mean when you watch the vid.
All the laps bar one, are in the low mid 54's. The last lap is a 53.822

Dan is right. This combo & Fraps do not mix at all. God knows how fast the last lap would have been had I not been recording LOL. Judging by the 54 second laps in this vid I'm losing ~.4 of a second using Fraps.

 
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FINAL STANDINGS Season 2 Week 6 Leaderboard

Pos Lap--time Split-Tm Pts Driver
01. 00:53.620 +00.000 25 Wedge
02. 00:53.650 +00.030 20 danswan
03. 00:53.780 +00.160 16 NIKAZ
04. 00:54.010 +00.390 13 Marine Iguana
05. 00:54.280 +00.660 11 inam22
06. 00:54.300 +00.680 10 grs_link
07. 00:54.380 +00.760 09 Lt Goody
08. 00:54.490 +00.870 08 mercyless
09. 00:54.610 +00.990 07 lewdogga
10. 00:54.810 +01.190 06 CK61938
11. 00:54.870 +01.250 05 anihcniedam
12. 00:55.330 +01.710 04 utajoker
 
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My settings

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There's a couple of options regarding downforce. I've experimented with varying levels to find what's best.
1. With low settings as above you really have to nail every corner to achieve a time in the low 54's high 53's. Most of the time you'll be hitting mid 54's.
2. With max settings you'll be more consistent hitting low 54's but I've yet to break into the 53's. I have achieved a 54.040 though using max. What you lose in straight line speed you gain in the corners.
Also I found mid downforce levels 8 to 12 are of no use. You lose straight line speed but don't have enough downforce to make up the time in the corners
 
danswan said:
What does that 'Visco electronic lock' thing do? (In layman's terms :))
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The 'Visco Electronic Lock' or 'Viscous Electronic Lock' is of sorts a Limited Slip Differential that resides between the front & rear wheels. So only found on 4WD vehicles.

Why the need for a Limited Slip Differential (LSD)?

When a car is travelling in a straight line (perfect road conditions) ALL four wheels are rotating at the same speed, as it should be & NO differential is required (e.g Drag racing).
Now consider what happens when the car is negotiating a corner. The outer wheels have to travel (spin faster) a greater distance than the inner wheels. With NO differential the inner wheels spin at the same rate as the outer wheels resulting in the car wanting to go straight on, severe understeer (Being simplistic here). Hence we need a LSD on each driven axle, sitting between the Rear Near Side drive shaft & Rear Off Side drive shaft in a RWD car for example. This allows the outer & inner wheels to spin at a different rotational speed when negotiating a corner.

Yeah I know that, but what does the Viscous Electronic Lock do?

Firstly I think Shift is being simplistic with the term 'Visco Electronic Lock' probably to cover a variety of 4WD & AWD cars in Shift.

Where an LSD resides between the drive shafts on a driven axle, the Viscous Lock (deliberately omitted Electronic) resides between the the front & rear wheels (prop shafts). This controls the amount of power/torque distributed between the front & rear wheels. When power is applied the Viscous Lock constantly senses the spin speed of the front & rear wheels. If for example the front wheels are spinning faster (wheel spin/loss of traction) than the rear, the Viscous Lock applies more power to the rear wheels until the front wheels spin speed matches the rear wheels & so on. When front & rear wheels spin speed matches the Viscous Lock applies power evenly 50/50 front & rear.
The scale 'Low to High' in Shift tuning dictates the amount of power you want to distribute to the wheels with the most traction. This is the 'Electronic' (or software mapping) part of the term used by Shift IMO. As I see it Shift has merged two technologies into one to keep things relatively simple.
As we know the Lancer Evo's, Imprezza's & Skyline's have tremendous grip levels in this game. I believe this is due to this 'Electronic' setting. It could also be controlling wheel spin rate by applying the brakes to any wheel via the anti lock braking system without any user input.

You all still awake LOL
 
danswan said:
Ok cool! But does it make my car go faster? :)
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On this combo, smooth wide fast flowing track, no bumps, minimal corners etc combined with the Evo, a high Visco setting results in a faster car.
Adversely if we were racing on say a twisty undulating track like the one Wedge won the other week with the Lotus then a lower setting would be more suited with the Evo due to minimum straight sections & multiply turns/switch backs to maintain a more even spread of power distribution between all four wheels i.e maximum grip/traction in all weight transfer directions.

On a twisty track you don't want the power (high setting) switching constantly between front & rear. You'll understeer one moment as the rear receives more power then in a blink of an eye switch to oversteer as the power is suddenly sent to the front.
 
danswan said:
NIKAZ - thanks for taking the time to explain that, hopefully my small brain can soak some of it up. In practice, I seem to be a little slower with it on max, so I've toned it down to 80ish
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Dan, I personally would stick with what you feel is best as you've got the driving style in tune with AWD cars in Shift.


danswan said:
Incidentally, you seem to have Wedge on 53:751 when he has the same as me, 53:750. Maybe you docked .001 off him for falling asleep in your lesson ;) You can leave it like that if you want, but I think Wedge might have something to say about it :D
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Actually it's a way of maintaining a correctly ordered list. For each matched lap time I increase the last digit by one in the order they were posted.
 
Wedge said:
wtf? really?

laptime is a laptime, surely....
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Think of it this way. If everybody achieved the same lap time does that mean everybody is entitled to receive first place & 25 points?
In motor racing events where grid placing is dictated by the fastest lap time recorded in Pole Position, in the event of two (or more) matched lap times the first driver to achieve the matched time gets the higher grid placing.
In athletics, 100m sprint for example, two identical times share the position because they're sprinting against each other at the same time.
 
Let's get Season 2 Week 7 underway

Week 7: Volkswagen Scirocco 'Works Converted' @ Glendale West

Chosen by Marine Iguana
 
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This car is going to take some tuning. I can't get any traction. The rev meter is at max revs but the red change indicator doesn't appear. Weird
 
Wedge said:
Hmm, this is not right, once i hit the red line, i change gear, then all the next gears redline instantly, without picking up speed?

Vote to change cars :(

I have not driven them, but what about...Meguane sport, Leon or Scirocco? (all works convertable)
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Yeah it is annoying. From what I can make out from the little time I've had with this car is the dials (rev meter) are useless. Ignore it. Change gear when the red indicator appears.
Another disadvantage is tuning. I haven't a clue now whether the car is genuinely wheel spinning/ losing traction or it's this bug.

If Marine so chooses, he can select another car.
 
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