NR200 Owner's Thread

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Wow £52 is a steal! Hope the install goes smoothly.

Planning to install at the bottom and do vertical GPU?

Hey Richard, The CPU Cooler & rad install be very simply,
I plan on modding it under the bottom panel that way the 450mm Hoses
be facing down in the optimal position for the liquid, this takes a bit of planning & maybe tricky

Got Aluminium Legs on the way also :)
Side window for the Vertical GPU mounting in the early stages
 
Last edited:
Soldato
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Mentioned previously that I wasn't too happy with the pin design in the top of the case for using slim fans up there. Even with the slim fans installed, the long pins (designed for normal fan thickness) were pressing down on my NH-C14S cooler when I put the lid on. It wasn't particularly bad but you could definitely see the heatsink 'notch' down when you snapped in the pins from the top panel into the chassis. So I set about trying to fix it...

Tried to find a threadless bolt of some kind that could replicate the original pin in thickness but it was actually pretty hard to find something unthreaded. There's plenty of dowels and metal rods of the right size but then it needed to have a head on it, that was wider, to prevent the fans dropping out of the pin if the case was ever moved or nudged.

The cheapest method is far and away just getting some threaded bolts but I didn't want the fan housing and rubber grommets of the case to be eaten away over time with installing and uninstalling - so that's when I discovered something called a clevis pin. Which was designed for something much more sophisticated than this application but it works really well.

This was before with the original pins:

1IOzT1M.jpg
OLp4N0l.jpg

And this was after:

ktDwZek.jpg
ljZZZRg.jpg

For anyone that is interested in the dimensions of the pins, they're 4mm (m4) in diameter and 25mm in length.
 
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Mentioned previously that I wasn't too happy with the pin design in the top of the case for using slim fans up there. Even with the slim fans installed, the long pins (designed for normal fan thickness) were pressing down on my NH-C14S cooler when I put the lid on. It wasn't particularly bad but you could definitely see the heatsink 'notch' down when you snapped in the pins from the top panel into the chassis. So I set about trying to fix it...

Tried to find a threadless bolt of some kind that could replicate the original pin in thickness but it was actually pretty hard to find something unthreaded. There's plenty of dowels and metal rods of the right size but then it needed to have a head on it, that was wider, to prevent the fans dropping out of the pin if the case was ever moved or nudged.

The cheapest method is far and away just getting some threaded bolts but I didn't want the fan housing and rubber grommets of the case to be eaten away over time with installing and uninstalling - so that's when I discovered something called a clevis pin. Which was designed for something much more sophisticated than this application but it works really well.

This was before with the original pins:

1IOzT1M.jpg
OLp4N0l.jpg

And this was after:

ktDwZek.jpg
ljZZZRg.jpg

For anyone that is interested in the dimensions of the pins, they're 4mm (m4) in diameter and 25mm in length.

It seems you put the PSU in the front, does it conflict with the rad too ?
 
Soldato
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It seems you put the PSU in the front, does it conflict with the rad too ?

It is fine with the PSU in the other position, no issue with the heatsink in that layout. But it does limit your ability to comfortably put a 140mm fan on the underside of the heatsink. I'm sort of toying around with different layouts at the moment so I could end up going back to the original PSU position but it would be with a view to having a 120mm fan on the underside and a 140mm on the outside.
 
Associate
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Posts
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Mentioned previously that I wasn't too happy with the pin design in the top of the case for using slim fans up there. Even with the slim fans installed, the long pins (designed for normal fan thickness) were pressing down on my NH-C14S cooler when I put the lid on. It wasn't particularly bad but you could definitely see the heatsink 'notch' down when you snapped in the pins from the top panel into the chassis. So I set about trying to fix it...

Tried to find a threadless bolt of some kind that could replicate the original pin in thickness but it was actually pretty hard to find something unthreaded. There's plenty of dowels and metal rods of the right size but then it needed to have a head on it, that was wider, to prevent the fans dropping out of the pin if the case was ever moved or nudged.

The cheapest method is far and away just getting some threaded bolts but I didn't want the fan housing and rubber grommets of the case to be eaten away over time with installing and uninstalling - so that's when I discovered something called a clevis pin. Which was designed for something much more sophisticated than this application but it works really well.

This was before with the original pins:

1IOzT1M.jpg
OLp4N0l.jpg

And this was after:

ktDwZek.jpg
ljZZZRg.jpg

For anyone that is interested in the dimensions of the pins, they're 4mm (m4) in diameter and 25mm in length.

So they slide right in for easy install just like the normal fan cages provided, no need to secure with a cotter pin or anything?
 
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Greetings everyone
it's a pleasure meeting you, this is my first build and I am getting the nr200p version, I want to use arctic freezer liquid ii 240 with vertical gpu
I have 2 concerns
1- do you think every gpu will fit because i am aiming for rtx 3000 and I heard they are going to be 2.5 slots
2- I worry about gpu sag issue so is it safer to have the gpu vertically mounted because i am using this system as a laptop replacement with a portable monitor so I am going to be on the move with the build.
you help is much appreciated
 
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@McPhee
@Slogan
@Bindlestiff

Answer from noctua regarding NH-U9S Vs NH-C14S

Greetings from Noctua!
Thank you very much for contacting us.

While the NH-C14S does have more heat pipes and 140mm fans, C-Type coolers due to their design aren't as efficient as U- or D-Type coolers when it comes to the heat transfer efficiency of heat pipes. The heat pipes of the NH-C14S have a few sharp bends as well as long heat pipes, this reduces the thermal transfer between the cold plate which contacts the CPU and the heat-dissipating cooling fins.

For this very reason, we'd recommend going for the NH-U9S instead as it's (depending on the CPU) slightly better than the NH-C14S in performance.

The NH-U9S is around the corner and will hit the market in 1-2 months.
 
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Nice work with the slim fans @Slogan, good to know that's a pretty easy thing to do!

Greetings everyone
it's a pleasure meeting you, this is my first build and I am getting the nr200p version, I want to use arctic freezer liquid ii 240 with vertical gpu
I have 2 concerns
1- do you think every gpu will fit because i am aiming for rtx 3000 and I heard they are going to be 2.5 slots
2- I worry about gpu sag issue so is it safer to have the gpu vertically mounted because i am using this system as a laptop replacement with a portable monitor so I am going to be on the move with the build.
you help is much appreciated

1 - Think you should be fine here, even with using the glass panel you'll have some space to get airflow to the card even if the vented panel will perform better. A triple slot card that only has a double slot PCI plate will fit vertically and work with the vented panel.
2 - I don't think sag will be an issue, providing the card is built well it will be supported fine vertically. But I would be concerned about how much the card can move around side to side. I attached my card vertically as a test and it wobbled wobbled a lot, granted I didn't have the riser cable connected which would reduce this. But it put me off of a vertical mount considering I regularly attend Lanparties (or did prior to Covid... sigh)
Suspect you could make some sort of bracket from the PSU cage to the card to hold it rigid though :)
 
Soldato
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If your going to be moving it around regularly, I would get one of those packs of ‘insta pan’ that uses a chemical reaction to expand the material around what it’s being packed against. You can take it in and out as and when you need to move it and you’ll know the GPU is secured.
 
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Any thoughts on this for Maxed out Fan setup with vented side panel?

Bottom: 2x Arctic P12 INTAKE
Top: 2x Arctic P12 EXTRACT
Rear: 1x Arctic F9 EXTRACT
Side: 2x Arctic P12 on 240mm AIO INTAKE (Fans in push config)

Maybe overkill, but I have the fans AND ambient in the room gets up to 33 degrees.
 
Soldato
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@McPhee
@Slogan
@Bindlestiff

Answer from noctua regarding NH-U9S Vs NH-C14S

Greetings from Noctua!
Thank you very much for contacting us.

While the NH-C14S does have more heat pipes and 140mm fans, C-Type coolers due to their design aren't as efficient as U- or D-Type coolers when it comes to the heat transfer efficiency of heat pipes. The heat pipes of the NH-C14S have a few sharp bends as well as long heat pipes, this reduces the thermal transfer between the cold plate which contacts the CPU and the heat-dissipating cooling fins.

For this very reason, we'd recommend going for the NH-U9S instead as it's (depending on the CPU) slightly better than the NH-C14S in performance.

The NH-U9S is around the corner and will hit the market in 1-2 months.

Interesting.

Would still like to see a head-to-head of these coolers in this type of case. I think the results could be interesting. With the window panel, U9S is going to walk it. But with the vented panel? C14S will have an intake fan blowing directly on to it, while the U9S will be dealing with GPU exhaust air.

Not a test I'll be doing though as I've got no intention of using the vented panel :p
 
Soldato
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Any thoughts on this for Maxed out Fan setup with vented side panel?

Bottom: 2x Arctic P12 INTAKE
Top: 2x Arctic P12 EXTRACT
Rear: 1x Arctic F9 EXTRACT
Side: 2x Arctic P12 on 240mm AIO INTAKE (Fans in push config)

Maybe overkill, but I have the fans AND ambient in the room gets up to 33 degrees.

The 92mm probably won't do much; I wedged a 120mm in there and it barely moved the needle. The rear panel is quite blocked with that vertical GPU mount. Wil be interesting to see if your experience is the same.
 
Soldato
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Interesting.

Would still like to see a head-to-head of these coolers in this type of case. I think the results could be interesting. With the window panel, U9S is going to walk it. But with the vented panel? C14S will have an intake fan blowing directly on to it, while the U9S will be dealing with GPU exhaust air.

Not a test I'll be doing though as I've got no intention of using the vented panel :p

Good point on the panels used, I'll be using the TG panel so its decision made for me I'm waiting for the NH-U9S Chromax to be released and I'll get one as soon as they become available and add a second fan potentially. The only other cooler I considered is the Scythe Mugen 5 but I cant get passed the shiny surface of it or the black edition reminding me of a gimp mask and I'm not fussed on RGB. Plus it looks like it takes up too much of the interior so the NH-U9S is a good all rounder for this case IMO
 
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The 92mm probably won't do much; I wedged a 120mm in there and it barely moved the needle. The rear panel is quite blocked with that vertical GPU mount. Wil be interesting to see if your experience is the same.

Indeed there is a fair amount of blockage there. I figured that having the the AIO fans in push, anything I can do to extract the hot air and keep it moving through the case would be a good thing.

When you say it barely moved the needle, is that CPU, GPU and VRM?
 
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