Nvidia 30X0 series waterblocks

Installed, think I totally messed up the thermal paste and mounting so will need to strip down again, sigh. Water temps reach about 35ish-38ish degrees under load (abit fans going), but GPU temps itself is mid 60's to 70's, which is way to high a delta for a waterblock IMO. Granted 360 not expecting great temps, but given water temp, delta seems off.

9zG5IXv.jpg
 
Installed, think I totally messed up the thermal paste and mounting so will need to strip down again, sigh. Water temps reach about 35ish-38ish degrees under load (abit fans going), but GPU temps itself is mid 60's to 70's, which is way to high a delta for a waterblock IMO. Granted 360 not expecting great temps, but given water temp, delta seems off.

Welp, as thought mounting was wrong. Down to using longer screws around main core area. Thought no way the smaller screws they supplied were the ones to use as thread is so small. Seems smaller screws are the ones to use, even if you need to apply decent amount of pressure to point it gets worrying!
 
So I fitted both 3090 FE water blocks this week and installed them into my loop yesterday. Installation of the blocks went smoothly and I took the opportunity to also fit Thermalright pads.

Unfortunately I couldn’t complete my build the way I had in mind. I had planned to mount both GPU’s vertically. As I have an O11 Dynamic XL with a thick 58mm radiator on the bottom, I could not fit the Lian-Li 5 slot GPU mounting bracket. I even removed the radiator bracket and set the radiator into the bottom of the case but I still needed around 10-15mm clearance. Disappointing as I really wanted to see the water loop but at least the back plate design of the EK FE block is very nice too. Actually though, holding two 3090 FE cards in hand with the block installed is rather heavy and I don’t think the vertical bracket would cope well, even if I could have fitted it so the support stand could be screwed into a motherboard standoff.

Of course being horizontally mounted and without 4 slot spacing on the motherboard, I won’t be able to use NVLINK. Not a huge deal, it is just a bit of a shame. I might look at the other 3 slot Ampere NVLINK models but the FE one looks the best.

I had a bit of a mind boggle thinking how the two GPU’s would connect using a front mount distro plate but I figured it out.

I have not had time to do extensive testing but so far, results based on mining etherum are very good I would say.

My configuration is:

- XE bottom, intake
- PE top, exhaust
- SE side, intake
- Front mount Quantum Reflection Distro
- Rear exhaust fan

- 5950x (set to ‘Power Saver’ and 95% power limit)
- 3090 FE x2 with EK Special Edition water blocks and Thermalright 1.0mm pads

Temps recorded in HWinfo while mining etherum all day with OC set in EVGA Precision X1.

-300 Core
0 memory OC
77% power limit

Top GPU
- Core: 46.3
- Memory Junction: 82.0

Bottom GPU
- Core: 48.8
- Memory Junction: 86.0

CPU
- 59.0

Coolant
~43.0

Fans
~1500 rpm

After playing around pushing memory higher, I did find the memory junction went up but not above 90.0. I didn’t gain a lot in terms of hash rate and had to also increase power limit which also contributed to increased temperature of the entire loop to around ~46.0 and fans would also need to run faster. So I think I’ll leave my settings as they are ie not push for the absolute highest performance in order to maintain lower (more respectable) temperature.

Considering the noise and general fear about running temperatures of 104-110 before, I am more than happy with these results. IF I was building again however, I would get a larger case and E-ATX motherboard. I didn’t set out to have two 3090’s though, it was something that happened when I already had most of the other components and could not return them.

Until today I was set on getting the active backplates when they are launched. Now though, I’m not sure. And it isn’t because I don’t think they will lower temperature of the memory further - they will - but I don’t think I have enough cooling capacity to cope with even more heat being transferred to my loop. Again, if I was starting over, I would be looking at larger cases to solve this!

EDIT:
Made a slight modification this morning. Changed the side radiator fans so they are exhaust instead of intake. The result is similar temps to before but at 500 rpm reduction on all fans. Definitely not silent but very comfortable. In fact now the loudest thing is one of my fans squeaking, will need to replace it.
 
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So I fitted both 3090 FE water blocks this week and installed them into my loop yesterday. Installation of the blocks went smoothly and I took the opportunity to also fit Thermalright pads.

Unfortunately I couldn’t complete my build the way I had in mind. I had planned to mount both GPU’s vertically. As I have an O11 Dynamic XL with a thick 58mm radiator on the bottom, I could not fit the Lian-Li 5 slot GPU mounting bracket. I even removed the radiator bracket and set the radiator into the bottom of the case but I still needed around 10-15mm clearance. Disappointing as I really wanted to see the water loop but at least the back plate design of the EK FE block is very nice too. Actually though, holding two 3090 FE cards in hand with the block installed is rather heavy and I don’t think the vertical bracket would cope well, even if I could have fitted it so the support stand could be screwed into a motherboard standoff.

Of course being horizontally mounted and without 4 slot spacing on the motherboard, I won’t be able to use NVLINK. Not a huge deal, it is just a bit of a shame. I might look at the other 3 slot Ampere NVLINK models but the FE one looks the best.

I had a bit of a mind boggle thinking how the two GPU’s would connect using a front mount distro plate but I figured it out.

I have not had time to do extensive testing but so far, results based on mining etherum are very good I would say.

My configuration is:

- XE bottom, intake
- PE top, exhaust
- SE side, intake
- Front mount Quantum Reflection Distro
- Rear exhaust fan

- 5950x (set to ‘Power Saver’ and 95% power limit)
- 3090 FE x2 with EK Special Edition water blocks and Thermalright 1.0mm pads

Temps recorded in HWinfo while mining etherum all day with OC set in EVGA Precision X1.

-300 Core
0 memory OC
77% power limit

Top GPU
- Core: 46.3
- Memory Junction: 82.0

Bottom GPU
- Core: 48.8
- Memory Junction: 86.0

CPU
- 59.0

Coolant
~43.0

Fans
~1500 rpm.

If you switch the SE & XE you will be able to vertically mount both cards. The bracket might need a bit more support though.
You get to see the block, you also get airflow from bottom rad fans over both cards.
 
Of course this might not work with a distro plate!! Dho my bad!

Yep, I was just about to say that exactly! I cannot fathom why EK couldn’t have moved the pump on the distro inwards to allow for 25mm thick fan at the bottom, then you could fit an XE radiator behind or do a push-pull setup with a slimmer radiator.

Anyway, I can live with it.

I think two GPU’s on a vertical mount would require something more substantial than the Lian-Li bracket anyway to be honest.
 
Installed, think I totally messed up the thermal paste and mounting so will need to strip down again, sigh. Water temps reach about 35ish-38ish degrees under load (abit fans going), but GPU temps itself is mid 60's to 70's, which is way to high a delta for a waterblock IMO. Granted 360 not expecting great temps, but given water temp, delta seems off.

9zG5IXv.jpg
Thats beautiful mate, i absolutely love that case and colour combo. The way you mounted the gpu and utilising the end ports, its how it shoold be for a clean build.

i do agree though your temps seem off even for a single 360. Should be in the mid or low 50’s gpu temp wise. Paste might not be the issue, i would say mounting pressure is the culprit.
 
Thats beautiful mate, i absolutely love that case and colour combo. The way you mounted the gpu and utilising the end ports, its how it shoold be for a clean build.

i do agree though your temps seem off even for a single 360. Should be in the mid or low 50’s gpu temp wise. Paste might not be the issue, i would say mounting pressure is the culprit.

Thanks bud. yeah as per comment underneath was mounting heh. The block comes with longer screws and smaller screws, used longer screws around the core. Initially thought no way to use smaller ones as the thread is so small you need to apply decent amount of force to get them to work! Alas turns out you did need to use them. With remounting my Water temp goes to around 40 degrees and GPU sits around 50 - mid 50 when loop is dumping about 425w into the loop. Not the best temps but reasonable for a 360 slim rad for everything and what I would expect. Mostly about looks and fitting into the case for me!
 
Torx drivers, namely size 3, 4 and 7 ones that you may not have on hand and I had to buy after the fact. For screws just uses smaller Philips heads. Tweezers or something are a must to get the RGB header cable off, I managed to rip mine away entirely from the PCB so stock cooler if I ever use it again will have no RGB :o
 
I'd honestly suggest buying something like this.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Precision-...ords=computer+tool+kit&qid=1617882860&sr=8-11

I don't have that specific package but they're all much of a muchness and mine has been incredibly useful. The plastic tools (spudgers) really help in removing the smaller cables or levering things open without marring anything. They're useful for scraping off adhesives or even just stuck on thermal paste as well.

Been used on laptops, phones, computers, graphics cards... a toaster! All sorts of electronics really.

Edit:

I have one that has a screwdriver extension in like this one.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Screwdrive...ter+tool+kit+extension&qid=1617883167&sr=8-24

That has been incredibly useful for some harder to reach places in my case (watercooling does get in the way sometimes).
 
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Torx drivers, namely size 3, 4 and 7 ones that you may not have on hand and I had to buy after the fact. For screws just uses smaller Philips heads. Tweezers or something are a must to get the RGB header cable off, I managed to rip mine away entirely from the PCB so stock cooler if I ever use it again will have no RGB :o

many thanks! I am indeed missing a couple of those. Time to find a new kit...
 
I'd honestly suggest buying something like this.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Precision-...ords=computer+tool+kit&qid=1617882860&sr=8-11

I don't have that specific package but they're all much of a muchness and mine has been incredibly useful. The plastic tools (spudgers) really help in removing the smaller cables or levering things open without marring anything. They're useful for scraping off adhesives or even just stuck on thermal paste as well.

Been used on laptops, phones, computers, graphics cards... a toaster! All sorts of electronics really.

Edit:

I have one that has a screwdriver extension in like this one.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Screwdrive...ter+tool+kit+extension&qid=1617883167&sr=8-24

That has been incredibly useful for some harder to reach places in my case (watercooling does get in the way sometimes).

perfect thanks. I’ll grab the first one. Nice to have one kit with everything in it. I’ve got a few scattered around in draws and can never find the bit I need!
 
perfect thanks. I’ll grab the first one. Nice to have one kit with everything in it. I’ve got a few scattered around in draws and can never find the bit I need!

No worries :). Of all the cheaper tools I've bought I think my one of those has been the most useful and least disappointing. It is useful having everything available like that and the quality seems fine for the parts that matter and get used most. The carrying bag thing is a bit rubbish but it's not like it goes very many places!
 
tease me tease me tease me baby...

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you want more?;)
 
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Got some pics of block and mounting photos if interested? Wasn't too difficult but could make a mini-DIY for the FTW3 card.
 
Anyone else buy the newly available matching backplate for the EK 3080/3090 FE blocks? My GPU is mounted vertically but I still bought a silver backplate...
 
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