Soldato
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NVIDIA 4000 Series
- Thread starter MrClippy
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I'd appreciate the same
Think this is right:
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Associate
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Can someone help as my spatial awareness is shot to pieces.
Ref https://store.cablemod.com/12vhpwr-angled-adapter/
If I want to vertical mount a 4090 FE, I'll need the 90 Degree Adapter (A) if I want the cable to run down behind the backplate?
Ref https://store.cablemod.com/12vhpwr-angled-adapter/
If I want to vertical mount a 4090 FE, I'll need the 90 Degree Adapter (A) if I want the cable to run down behind the backplate?
Got my Ek waterbclock on my 4090FE last night and I am disappointed in EK.
Quality of the waterblock is shocking, no where near the levels they used to be.
The block doesnt cover the whole board and as such there are two LR22 phases right next to the power connector which are uncooled.
Not convinced that the thermal pads they send with the block make a good contact all over. I put it all together and stripped it down and there is very little pressure on the pads.
Same with the gpu chip. Nvidia has a very strong spring which clamps their block in good contact with the gpu, the ek waterblock just uses 4 small screws. There dint seem to be much pressure and there is a warning not to overtighten as you could crack the chip (thats the problem you get when not using a big spring.
And lastly, i didnt get much time to do much testing last night but bearing in mind its on its own watercooling circuit with a 560mm rad and 280 rad, the gpu still gets to 60C in gaming.
And thats not even doing any overclocking. But something weird going on power wise I think, I never go above 48% power and never draws more than 280w but it was boosting to between 2850 and just over 3000 last night.
I wish I had waited for waterblock reviews as some of the other blocks available look much better and covers the whole circuit board.
Quality of the waterblock is shocking, no where near the levels they used to be.
The block doesnt cover the whole board and as such there are two LR22 phases right next to the power connector which are uncooled.
Not convinced that the thermal pads they send with the block make a good contact all over. I put it all together and stripped it down and there is very little pressure on the pads.
Same with the gpu chip. Nvidia has a very strong spring which clamps their block in good contact with the gpu, the ek waterblock just uses 4 small screws. There dint seem to be much pressure and there is a warning not to overtighten as you could crack the chip (thats the problem you get when not using a big spring.
And lastly, i didnt get much time to do much testing last night but bearing in mind its on its own watercooling circuit with a 560mm rad and 280 rad, the gpu still gets to 60C in gaming.
And thats not even doing any overclocking. But something weird going on power wise I think, I never go above 48% power and never draws more than 280w but it was boosting to between 2850 and just over 3000 last night.
I wish I had waited for waterblock reviews as some of the other blocks available look much better and covers the whole circuit board.
Something doesn't sound right there , 60 in gaming is shocking when watercooled... 100% sounds like a contact issue somewhere. Have you contacted EK about this yet or anything about it on their FB group?
It was late last night so only had 5 minutes of testing. Will research today and see what other people are getting with their Ek blocks. But I am bitterly disappointed in the quality of the block this time,. I must have owned at least 6 EK GPU blocks for various cards in the past and they have always been sound.
My 3090 over volted and overclocked used to draw 470W when gaming and my watercooling loop kept it to the low 40s so something is very wrong certainly.
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Just saw on reddit there is only one other person who posted with the waterblock and they are getting low 40s. Also I see somebody posted that you should use only the 1mm pads on the gpu side (EK instructions say otherwise though!!!!!!!!!!!). Perhaps the pads are keeping the block from making good contact with the gpu?
I'm going to have to drain my loop again arent i>
Generally speaking, even with aircooled cards, thermal pad thickness and hardness play a very very large role on GPU temps, and especially hotspot. How big is the delta between your gpu die and the hotspot at max wattage, something like 400-450w? That should give you a clear indication on whether your thermal pads allow good contact between the cooler and the die. 10C was perfect for the 3090, but it seems for the 4090 below 10 is actually kind of a normal.Just saw on reddit there is only one other person who posted with the waterblock and they are getting low 40s. Also I see somebody posted that you should use only the 1mm pads on the gpu side (EK instructions say otherwise though!!!!!!!!!!!). Perhaps the pads are keeping the block from making good contact with the gpu?
I'm going to have to drain my loop again arent i>
I'm pretty suspicious of EK after I went through two DDC pump/res combos in a matter of months with both of them failing in the same manner. Some of their stuff is beautifully engineered but some of it is definitely more form over function and with poor tolerances/design. I was tempted but apprehensive of their 4090 waterblock..your experience so far doesn't fill me with much hope.
Yeah does sound like you have a contact issue for sure, for reference my strix would only get to low 40 with 520w and a cpu in the same loop so 60 for a gpu on its own loop would point to bad contact, is it even touchingJust saw on reddit there is only one other person who posted with the waterblock and they are getting low 40s. Also I see somebody posted that you should use only the 1mm pads on the gpu side (EK instructions say otherwise though!!!!!!!!!!!). Perhaps the pads are keeping the block from making good contact with the gpu?
I'm going to have to drain my loop again arent i>
I'm not surprised at all. These days the first run of ek blocks for new cards are all terrible, they keep making mistakes and then need to redo them. Apart from the VRM cooling issue which will require a redesign of the block, your high GPU core temps are likely bad contact due to issues with the screws or thermal pads
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Associate
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Same! I've got an EK FE block on preorder with OcUK and really didn't want to read this!
Hopefully it's just a bad mount @Greebo. Is this a block with an active or passive backplate?
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My Strix 4090 runs cooler than that.
TBH, IMO it's not worth the expense of custom watercooling the 4090s. The higher end models such as MSI Suprim, Strix and AMP extreme all have such huge air coolers that there's 0.1% performance improvement from watercooling.
The air cooled cards are also very quiet, I'd wager most custom water cooling setups are louder, when you consider pump and radiator fan noise.
Not worth the expense, unless you plan to volt/power mod your cards (with physical mods) - then of course custom water (or LN2) is required.
Thats not true at all!! Watercoolling mode altough is expensive,still is the best cooling method without worring about noise, space or high temps ....
i know as i had wattercooled my gpu and it went from 65 to 28 degrees in iddle mode, and when i play the flight simulator 2020 , (everything in max settings) even VR the max it reaches is 55 to 60 degrees (only saw near 60 during summer time..) based in a room of 20 degrees average
So definitely is way better than air cooling....
Passive. with there been no memory on the back I couldn't see the point of having active back cooling
With my 3090 it was a total silent system when browsing/light use. Fans only ramp up to 850rpm when under load as well so still a really silent system (massively over on rads needed). card only ever got to 42c max under load which meant it maintained a much higher boost and consistently remained high.
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