OcUK & Cutters Rolling Road Day 19 @ Powerstation (Tewksbury) - Saturday April 25th 2015!!

[mrk]

I've been a berk!

All this time I've been thinking the E46 M3 was 343BHP stock but when Vita mentioned the PS<>HP of his car earlier I made note to check later and indeed, 343 is the PS, 338 is the stock BHP.

So mine is producing 99.9% of its original power 10 years on

 

[skaif]

lol I was there all day but it seems you went home early.

haha, next time eh? dagadagadagadagadagadaga....

I've been a berk!

All this time I've been thinking the E46 M3 was 343BHP stock but when Vita mentioned the PS<>HP of his car earlier I made note to check later and indeed, 343 is the PS, 338 is the stock BHP.

So mine is producing 99.9% of its original power 10 years on

Quality, even better result! Must be chuffed with that

 

[mrk]

Indeed! I would have been happy with a mere 300HP though either way

 

[Clarkey]

Gibbo if you're plan is to pull the engine then doing it with the gearbox attached is massively easier you know, unless the SMG causes an issue with that I guess.

 

[-Neil-]

Unfortunately I don't think bearing material is magnetic, I could be wrong but I do not think it is.....

Seems like we're both having the same job done and then some, mine is down at Redish-motorsport for:

24x Worn cam follower fingers (replaced with Schrick DLC).
Both camshafts being replaced with Schrick items.
Beisan vanos rebuild (one exhaust hub tab broken).
Head gasket whilst head is off for above.
Oil pump replacement as producing slightly low pressure.

Fingers crossed the bearing shells are good on mine, they are looking at them today

Neil

 

[Clarkey]

Low oil pressure would suggest a problem, probably best to get them done as a matter of course while you're already into the engine.

 

[Vita]

I've been a berk!

All this time I've been thinking the E46 M3 was 343BHP stock but when Vita mentioned the PS<>HP of his car earlier I made note to check later and indeed, 343 is the PS, 338 is the stock BHP.

So mine is producing 99.9% of its original power 10 years on

Yeah it's really dumb how the calculate it. But at least you know you got a sweet engine. Mines going to get a service and I'm going to import some zhp bits from the states if I can get hold of any that is. Remap time as well.

 

[Gibbo]

Seems like we're both having the same job done and then some, mine is down at Redish-motorsport for:

24x Worn cam follower fingers (replaced with Schrick DLC).
Both camshafts being replaced with Schrick items.
Beisan vanos rebuild (one exhaust hub tab broken).
Head gasket whilst head is off for above.
Oil pump replacement as producing slightly low pressure.

Fingers crossed the bearing shells are good on mine, they are looking at them today

Neil

Seriously whilst its apart buddy and for how little they cost get them to throw in treated shells and ARP bolts. Then should you ever decide to go crazy with cams your bottom end is safe for some higher RPM.

Sounds to me though like yours is going to be a lot more expensive.

My cost so far is £60 on some new tools and brake cleaner. Of course more expense to come and no doubt lots of money in beer for those who give me a hand.


P.S. Why does yours need all that doing, did something break and what mileage on the engine?

 

[Gibbo]

Gibbo if you're plan is to pull the engine then doing it with the gearbox attached is massively easier you know, unless the SMG causes an issue with that I guess.

Leaving engine in situ and supporting its weight on an engine support bar that local garage have loaned to me.

So plan is drop subframe, steering rack etc. Get the sump off and inspect shells.

Then a case of going crazy with brake cleaner and cleaning everything like crazy from underneath, then remove rocker cover gasket and pour brake cleaner over entire engine, down plug holes, down filter housing etc and let it all drain out in a hope that should their be any debris the filter did not catch that will clean it. Then fit new shells and bolts.

Then pour engine oil over everything, let it drain. Put all back together, fill with Shell Helix 10-40W synth as its cheap and thinner, let car idle for 20 minutes. Re-inspect filter and drop that oil and then fill with correct Castrol 10-60W and well hope for best.

 

[Clarkey]

Fair enough, will be a fairly horrible messy job doing it upside down

 

[Gibbo]

Fair enough, will be a fairly horrible messy job doing it upside down

Yeah I will come out looking like a can of brake cleaner.

Protective goggles at the ready.

 

[Zeed]

Well finished working on new WORKING air catch. For comparison old small one in intake pipe. Had some black roof sealant in garage so now air got no way to go other way than i want

Day 2 and top rings on coil-overs wont move as expected but i managed to spin coil over right and afaik that's what i need to move left side up around 0.5cm :]

As always i dont mess about :]

Tomorrow i maybe have another go on Ignition timing but without marks on pulley cant see it doing mutch better. Better safe than sorry just few months for proper engine tune so

 

[adam cool dude]

Then a case of going crazy with brake cleaner and cleaning everything like crazy from underneath, then remove rocker cover gasket and pour brake cleaner over entire engine, down plug holes, down filter housing etc and let it all drain out in a hope that should their be any debris the filter did not catch that will clean it. Then fit new shells and bolts.

Then pour engine oil over everything, let it drain. Put all back together, fill with Shell Helix 10-40W synth as its cheap and thinner, let car idle for 20 minutes. Re-inspect filter and drop that oil and then fill with correct Castrol 10-60W and well hope for best.

You need to keep an eye on your crank. If it is scored you will need to get it done and another set of bearings. Personally I wouldn't order anything until you can see what you're dealing with.

 

[Gibbo]

You need to keep an eye on your crank. If it is scored you will need to get it done and another set of bearings. Personally I wouldn't order anything until you can see what you're dealing with.

Well ordering now what I want to replace for sure which is:
Oil cooler
Oil pump
New shells/bearings kit
New arp bolts
Sump gasket
Rocker cover gasket
New artichoke and gasket
Dipstick seal
Oil filter and oil.

Those are what I intend changing, of course if any further damage is found such as crank needs re grinding etc then that will be done also.

 

[-Neil-]

Seriously whilst its apart buddy and for how little they cost get them to throw in treated shells and ARP bolts. Then should you ever decide to go crazy with cams your bottom end is safe for some higher RPM.

Sounds to me though like yours is going to be a lot more expensive.

My cost so far is £60 on some new tools and brake cleaner. Of course more expense to come and no doubt lots of money in beer for those who give me a hand.


P.S. Why does yours need all that doing, did something break and what mileage on the engine?

Mine is tapping like crazy from the worn fingers and cams, to change those is head off and whilst off do the vanos and hg. The oil pump was tested as wanted to know why all this has happened and to stop from happening again.

Neil.

 

[Freefaller]

Indeed! I would have been happy with a mere 300HP though either way

 

[Fuzz]

Go easy on the brake cleaner Gibbo. You don't want to wash out the oil that is in the main bearing shells (those you cant change with the engine in the car so leave well alone!)
you HAVE to have oil in the shells before you crank the motor over.
Rebuild the shells with proper engine assembly grease (Joe Gibbs does it) or you'll have a mare of job and it'll be dripping in your face if you try using oil.
and don't just bolt the new oil pump in dry, strip it and apply the same assembly grease, this will help it to suck up the oil out of the pan quicker.
oh and take all the spark plugs out if you haven't already..
1. It'll be easier to turn the engine over by hand as you do the big ends from underneath.
2. the engine will spin faster and with less load on the new shells whilst bringing the oil pressure back up after fitting all the new bits..
Capisce?

 

[adam cool dude]

Well ordering now what I want to replace for sure which is:
Oil cooler
Oil pump
New shells/bearings kit
New arp bolts
Sump gasket
Rocker cover gasket
New artichoke and gasket
Dipstick seal
Oil filter and oil.

Those are what I intend changing, of course if any further damage is found such as crank needs re grinding etc then that will be done also.

That's the thing if the crank does need doing then you will need to buy another set of bearings sized to suit leaving the ones you have already purchased useless.

 

[Gibbo]

That's the thing if the crank does need doing then you will need to buy another set of bearings sized to suit leaving the ones you have already purchased useless.

BMW only do one size of shells.

 

[Gibbo]

Go easy on the brake cleaner Gibbo. You don't want to wash out the oil that is in the main bearing shells (those you cant change with the engine in the car so leave well alone!)
you HAVE to have oil in the shells before you crank the motor over.
Rebuild the shells with proper engine assembly grease (Joe Gibbs does it) or you'll have a mare of job and it'll be dripping in your face if you try using oil.
and don't just bolt the new oil pump in dry, strip it and apply the same assembly grease, this will help it to suck up the oil out of the pan quicker.
oh and take all the spark plugs out if you haven't already..
1. It'll be easier to turn the engine over by hand as you do the big ends from underneath.
2. the engine will spin faster and with less load on the new shells whilst bringing the oil pressure back up after fitting all the new bits..
Capisce?

Ok only sprayed brake cleaner in plug holes so far and down oil filter housing.
Yeah I'm gonna buy some assembly lube for the shells and thanks for the advice on oil pump.

1. Plugs are out as I've being spraying brake cleaner down the holes.
2. So are you saying when it's all back together still leave plugs out and start/crank car?