OcUK & Cutters Rolling Road Day 19 @ Powerstation (Tewksbury) - Saturday April 25th 2015!!
- Thread starter Gibbo
- Start date
For sure crank it over until you see oil pressure before letting it fire up.
I think it's pretty mad too tbh
Done loads of mechanical work but I would shy away from messing with the engine internals. You only need to make one mistake and that's all your hard work and moneys up in smoke.
I think it's pretty mad too tbh
Done loads of mechanical work but I would shy away from messing with the engine internals. You only need to make one mistake and that's all your hard work and moneys up in smoke.
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Well to be honest the brake cleaner idea did not come from the internet, it came from a reputable garage, lol......
It's the internet (Fuzz) who has recommended I don't go to crazy with it.
Caporegime
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Which will not fit if the crank needs doing.
Yes, leave coil packs disconnected and leave plugs out and crank the car a good 30 secs after the oil pressure light has gone out....
If it doesn't have a light, buy a gauge.
Don't always go off the car picking up pressure/light off when cranking over on the key. My Zetec Turbo doesn't and its oil pressure is fine.
Gibbo, if you have taken the gearbox off the for the sake of a few other bits and bobs take the engine out. It will make life MUCH easier and a better job and its easier than dropping the subframe. Where abouts do you live?
Gibbo, if you have taken the gearbox off the for the sake of a few other bits and bobs take the engine out. It will make life MUCH easier and a better job and its easier than dropping the subframe. Where abouts do you live?
You really don't need to drop the 'box on an e36 or e46 to get the engine out, so if it's already off, getting the lump out would be easy as pie.
Again, never removed an M3 lump, but done a number of non "M" 6-cyl removals!
When Gibbo says bellhousing bolts, I suspect he means the ones that tie into the sump pan.
Yes for us lot with equipment, it would be easier to take the engine out but unless Gibbo goes out and buys an engine crane, that's not going to happen.
For limited tools and a bit more u bolting, he's doing well.
Yes for us lot with equipment, it would be easier to take the engine out but unless Gibbo goes out and buys an engine crane, that's not going to happen.
For limited tools and a bit more u bolting, he's doing well.
Or rents one. Renting an engine hoist, assuming the space to a) use it and b) store it, isn't expensive. I certainly don't own one, yet have used one numerous times!
Spoke with Fuzz (Andy) last night, he said irrelevant of what local garage (Specialist) are saying to not pour brake fluid all over the engine, its a bad idea.
So far I'd only put it down plug holes and filter housing, he said not to worry and from now on to just use the brake cleaner for cleaning the oil sump/pan when it comes out and the end caps.
What I am going to do is pour a load of oil all over the engine internals (not plug holes) and let it drain through, so if there is any debris that will hopefully catch it and drag it through but in all honesty I think the filter caught it all as the oil which came out the pan had no debris, glitter, tinsel, metal fragments in it, all the glitter stuff came only out the filter.
Yes it is the three 10mm torx (e-bit 10mm) bolts which go through the bell housing into the sump pan, what an absolute pain they were to get off especially the one that you cannot get to, but they are all off now.
Removing the engine from the car would be a huge job due to the hydraulic lines and I've got the car pretty high up in the air, jack stands extended to maximum so quite a bit of room.
If I struggle once it is all apart several people have offered to come and help with the shell installation and are fully aware that they will be doing upside down in a driveway.
I've got pretty much everything out the way now, radiatior fan gone, car had no viscous fan or housing which saves some work, plugs are out, most of underside of car is all undone.
All I need to do now is undo engine mounts, disconnect oil cooler, oil return lines, steering pump etc and then undo subframe bolts but not take them full out which supposedly lowers subframe enough to give good access. Hopefully going to tackle that at weekend as am back in work now and weather for most of this week looks miserable, hope its dry at weekend and I shall try to be at the point where the sump pan is off and visually inspect, then put it back on and wait for new parts to arrive.
Hi there
My plan is to buy 15l of this:
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-68977-s...-synthetic-technology-premium-engine-oil.aspx
As its a 10W-40 and semi-synthetic at £15 per 5l, so very good price.
Plan is to run 6-8l through the engine and then put 6l in the engine and run it at idle for 20 minutes and then drop it and check the filter.
I assume for just running at idle purposes this oil will be fine as the weight is same from cold and close when hot and for just running at idle I can't see an issue, what do people think? Also common sense tells me that running a 10W-40 part mineral and part synthetic will help break in of the new shells a bit better also as BMW ran a mineral oil in these engines when new.
I shall then fill with the correct grade Castrol 10W-60 full synthetic for M cars.
My reasoning is if it is safe to do then it saves quite a bit of cash as the Castrol is around £40 per 4l, spoken to a few specialist/garages and they say for just idling purposes the Shell stuff will be fine, but it was also specialist/garage who said spraying brake cleaner on the engine was also fine to do.
P.S.
For assembly lub, I assume this is the correct and good stuff?
http://www.24mx.co.uk/lucas-oil-sem...RKX_-_s9r6PvkQINZMB9OrGl-ojzZjQS6RhoCAmfw_wcB
My plan is to buy 15l of this:
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-68977-s...-synthetic-technology-premium-engine-oil.aspx
As its a 10W-40 and semi-synthetic at £15 per 5l, so very good price.
Plan is to run 6-8l through the engine and then put 6l in the engine and run it at idle for 20 minutes and then drop it and check the filter.
I assume for just running at idle purposes this oil will be fine as the weight is same from cold and close when hot and for just running at idle I can't see an issue, what do people think? Also common sense tells me that running a 10W-40 part mineral and part synthetic will help break in of the new shells a bit better also as BMW ran a mineral oil in these engines when new.
I shall then fill with the correct grade Castrol 10W-60 full synthetic for M cars.
My reasoning is if it is safe to do then it saves quite a bit of cash as the Castrol is around £40 per 4l, spoken to a few specialist/garages and they say for just idling purposes the Shell stuff will be fine, but it was also specialist/garage who said spraying brake cleaner on the engine was also fine to do.
P.S.
For assembly lub, I assume this is the correct and good stuff?
http://www.24mx.co.uk/lucas-oil-sem...RKX_-_s9r6PvkQINZMB9OrGl-ojzZjQS6RhoCAmfw_wcB
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Cheap oil absolutely fine for flushing purposes.
Assembly GREASE is slightly better than the oil based stuff as it stays in place better but the oil based lube is still way goopy-er than normal oil so anything is better than nothing, depends what you can get hold of.
Joe Gibbs does a nice assembly grease type
Millers does a nice assembly oil.
Take your pick but they are all much of a muchness.
This is what I use when the engine is in a position where it's not going to drip all over me,
http://www.millersoils.co.uk/automotive/tds-automotive.asp?prodsegmentID=255§or=Motorsport
Assembly GREASE is slightly better than the oil based stuff as it stays in place better but the oil based lube is still way goopy-er than normal oil so anything is better than nothing, depends what you can get hold of.
Joe Gibbs does a nice assembly grease type
Millers does a nice assembly oil.
Take your pick but they are all much of a muchness.
This is what I use when the engine is in a position where it's not going to drip all over me,
http://www.millersoils.co.uk/automotive/tds-automotive.asp?prodsegmentID=255§or=Motorsport
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He won't be changing the mains unless he takes the box off and gets brave with the cam timing chain....
Leave well alone there! there will have been little to no extra load on the mains from the over rev.\
Oh and some back up from Rich and BMW engine builder we know, 8200 MAX on all the race cars they do.
With the shrick cams they use, the power is at peak revs and beyond but the revs are limited to that for the very reason you have just found out!
Leave well alone there! there will have been little to no extra load on the mains from the over rev.\
Oh and some back up from Rich and BMW engine builder we know, 8200 MAX on all the race cars they do.
With the shrick cams they use, the power is at peak revs and beyond but the revs are limited to that for the very reason you have just found out!