OcUK & Cutters Rolling Road Day 19 @ Powerstation (Tewksbury) - Saturday April 25th 2015!!

Lord_ZED said:
Lol those M3s engines cost less than b18s :P


I changed Power steering fluid new iridium plugs and messed around with timing yet again. OFC cant see no marks god damn it :/
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One of great things about a car which was such a huge success in uk and sold in thousands, some parts are cheap, engines as little as 1k and gearboxes for about £300. It was a main reason for buying one should the engine or gearbox blow the cost is like more than 10x less than the Porsche. :)
 
Vita nope what good is my timing gun when you got no marks on pulley :S Thats why i was on low end on Dyno cause retarded timing. Setting it just on eye and ear atm :/

Gibbo ye. B18s start from 1200 for 90k miles on. And You know how those are driven :D
 
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Lord_ZED said:
Vita nope what good is my timing gun when you got no marks on pulley :S Thats why i was on low end on Dyno cause retarded timing. Setting it just on eye and ear atm :/

Gibbo ye. B18s start from 1200 for 90k miles on. And You know how those are driven :D
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Make some marks then, pretty easy just take the plug out of no.1 and drop a rod down onto the piston and turn the crank until you find the highest point and that's your TDC.
 
Not yours Gibbo, I meant Zed's, to set the timing up, it's either woefully retarded or it has some other issue I didn't pick up on!
 
Fuzz cant see ay other reason not puting out moar power than retarded ignition/ over fueling. Well broke off air catch pointing towards ground did not help either :D
My oil after 2500km and moste of it done at 4500rpm or more :] Have not taken a drop since change.
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Starts pulls and sounds like a beast :D
Once i get s300 ill do oil/coolant change plus valve readjustment. Guy that rebuild this engine just finished 500hp EG6 :D
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Want head done like that Full job on it port polish big valves ect.
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DAT TURBO SIZE :D So i know engine is build proper way :)
 
Fuzz thanks for idea with spark plug in C1. There ware not marks but dents left in pulley so .... White hammerite time and..
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Should be much better :D

Going to garage on Saturday for wheel alignment and CV boot change. I was about to change it but borrowed my big socket to someone and obviously not gotten it back..... Anyway while at it they gonna have a look how my ignition setting went :)


BTW. Love sound from new air catch. That sucking sound much louder than on old crappy one someone did years back.

AAAA and while cleaning and greesing up bushings around front i found this
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That should explain why my front left ABS was kicking in much sooner LOL



OLD cars gotta love what you can find when you look out of boredom :D
 
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Hi there

Getting there now, made some custom bolts that will let me drop subframe a lot lower:-

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Engine mounts are also undone so now car is literally ready to have engine supported by engine support and then lower the subframe as much as possible and remove the sump pan.

Also fitted new oil cooler, very easy job! Did not seem to be any debris come out the old oil cooler anyway. :)

Filled with Shell 5W-30 tonight, will leave that in for a day or two and then drain completely off when new bearings and bolts come for engine.
 
Fair play to you Gibbo that is quite a task you have taken on, I've only been changing a rad on my MX5 and feel a little out of my depth, never mind cracking open the engine.

I normally pay someone, currently wish I did, I am sure that will change when/if I succeed, at the very least I will be less of a mechanical virgin and now have a nice set of tools. :D
 
You've probably been researching engine strip downs Gibbo but here's some info for you that will carry across to your engine to help you with what the different components you are looking at in there.
Start at about 0:50 secs
http://youtu.be/oGfgR-RmqOo
 
Fuzz said:
You've probably been researching engine strip downs Gibbo but here's some info for you that will carry across to your engine to help you with what the different components you are looking at in there.
Start at about 0:50 secs
http://youtu.be/oGfgR-RmqOo
Click to expand...

Cheers mate! :)

To give myself even more room and engine access underneath I decided to remove steering rack also, left the track rod ends connects so in theory allignment should stay pretty spot on, but will have allignment double checked once back up and running.

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Gave the rack a good cleaning up as it was filthy.


A lot more room underneath now:

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Anti roll bar is now out the way as are power steering lines.

All I need to do now before removing sump pan is:
Remove power steering pump and belt
Remove dipstick and unplug and un click oil level sensor
Disconnect breather hose from sump and oil return line.

Then support engine and bring front subframe as far down as possible, then sump off, put in new shells, bolts and clean the sump up and then reversal and put in 6.5l of 5W-30 and let engine idle for 30 minutes, drop oil and check filter for any debris.

All being well refill with 10-60W and put car back together. :)
 
With the rack out the way, you might as well just remove the whole subframe. Top mounts, lollipops, brake calipers then drop it off, 10 minutes work?
 
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