OcUK & Cutters Rolling Road Day 19 @ Powerstation (Tewksbury) - Saturday April 25th 2015!!

Gibbo said:
My engine does not use M10 or M11, the stock BMW bolts in my car are M12......

The ARP kit I have is M11, I cannot see how going even smaller with M10 bolt will fit.
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The bolt head size doesn't matter, it's the thread size that matters.

Get them both measured tomorrow and go from there.

In the picture the ARP does look smaller, but it could be an illusion as it tapers in the middle.

The M11 ARP might actually be bigger, and therefore it could be catching the edge of the threads in the rod, but not tightening as it can't get in the hole (purely guessing).
 
BigglesPiP said:
If it's M12 you need M12, this is not something you can change and not trash the thread. They use a different thread pitch.

@Andy: Go get a cheap Digital caliper and check.
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The problem is, BMW only list M10 (for later engines or those that had bearing recall done), and M11 (earlier engines).
 
cossie1 said:
The bolt head size doesn't matter, it's the thread size that matters.

Get them both measured tomorrow and go from there.

In the picture the ARP does look smaller, but it could be an illusion as it tapers in the middle.

The M11 ARP might actually be bigger, and therefore it could be catching the edge of the threads in the rod, but not tightening as it can't get in the hole (purely guessing).
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Got a vernier, just found it, digital as well, will measure tomorrow.

Yes could be an illusion but the ARP bolt does go into the hole and it does hand tighten very tight without issue. It is when I torqued it which meant it was being tightened much further than I hand tighted that it just felt like it was coming lose again and spun. Stripping thread or because it was too small. I put the stock bolt back in and it initial torqued, torqued and angled with no issue.

Will measure the bolts tomorrow, but logic would suggest the M10 ARP set is probably smaller than the M11 ARP set.
 
cossie1 said:
I agree, but since when did logic come into it, when your modifying cars ??? :D
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Seems they sent me wrong kit, the part code I have is 201-6102 which is the M10 kit (45mm), I thought it was the M11 kit as it uses an M11 socket.

So seems I need the 201-6103 kit which is as they call it M11 kit (47mm) and will no doubt use an M12 socket. ;)

Does anywhere in the UK stock ARP bolts? As could do with a fast delivery or being able to collect in person?
 
Gibbo said:
Seems they sent me wrong kit, the part code I have is 201-6102 which is the M10 kit (45mm), I thought it was the M11 kit as it uses an M11 socket.

So seems I need the 201-6103 kit which is as they call it M11 kit (47mm) and will no doubt use an M12 socket. ;)

Does anywhere in the UK stock ARP bolts? As could do with a fast delivery or being able to collect in person?
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co-ordsport in dudley "might" have some in stock

0121 6616263

http://www.part-box.com/product_info.php?products_id=6311
 
Well this virtual remap is most certainly costing you a shedload of time if not money.

Perhaps avoid in the future?

Lucky doing all this when you did though looking at that old bearing, explains all the filings in your oil filter etc!
 
Stormster said:
Well this virtual remap is most certainly costing you a shedload of time if not money.

Perhaps avoid in the future?

Lucky doing all this when you did though looking at that old bearing, explains all the filings in your oil filter etc!
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Yeah but I've enjoyed it in a strange kind of way, all made the better as the car now lives again.

The remap is spot on and it's not virtual it was done on the dyno. The problem as stated previously was the RPM. The map shall be kept but rev limit reduced to 8000rpm. :)
 
Hi there

Well today has being a long day, 8am start, 9pm finish.

Started with:
Remove front subframe
Remove oil pan
Install new ARP bolts and torque to 70lb/ft
Refit oil pump and chain
Refit oil pickup lines
Clean up sump and gasket area.
RTV sump, add gasket and more RTV.
Refit oil pan, making sure dip stick is partially inserted, this was a royal pain in the ass and a lot of swearing happened.
Tighten up sump starting from centre working outwards including all awkward bolts.
Refit power steering pump
Refit power steering pulley
Refit drive belt
Refit oil pipe and power steering brackets
Refit subframe, but do not tighten up much, say one turn.
Refit wishbones
Refit steering rack, very tight hence reason for not tightening up subframe.
Now tighten up subframe bolts, steering rack bolts, steering guilbo, ensure wheels and steering wheel are centre before tightening.
Refit and tighten PS lines, make sure there is a washer either side
Refill power steering fluid, dextron 2/3 ATF/PS fluid for M3.
Tighten wishbones and track rod ends, use a pumpkin jack to prevent nut from just spinning.
Check oil return lines, oil level sensor, headlight sensor/levelling and any other plugs are all connected and re-check all bolts.
Fill with 7l 5W-30 running in oil.
Leave plugs and coils out, crank the engine 5-6 times for 5-8s to build oil pressure and check oil level.
Install plugs and coils.
Start the engine, oil pressure light should go out within 5s, turn steering wheel left to right to flush air out of PS system and leave to idle until warm (80c) oil temp and then give some gentle revs. Once 30 mins passes shut off and drain oil and remove filter for inspection.
If all OK refill with correct Castrol 10W-60
Refit chassis brace, all undertrays, air box, pollen housing, rocker cover, strut brace etc. and check oil level.
Test drive. :D

Probably missed loads.

The noise myself and others heard in the car park has gone, even after an hours drive so oil upto around 90c, did not get over 100c as keeping revs under 5500rpm but car sounds healthy and is driving fine.

The oil from the filter from running in did seems to have a little debris but very hard to tell whereas before it was very clear, but this I suspect is what was left in the system, couple of picture:

81c41e19790ac2bb7634982a658d6d34.jpg


4ae0ff34f71b55a0396b91ef88f5638a.jpg



Hopefully that is the last of it, but shall check the current filter in a couple of days to see if anything is in that one, fingers crossed.

It's good to have the car up and running again, drives superb, sounds great with no knocks, but only driven for an hour so far.

I've always being quite willing to work on my own cars, but not done anything major like this since I super charged the Mustang. I've learned a lot completely dissembling the front end of the car and opening up the engine. Quite enjoyed it but hope I don't have to do it again. ;)

Finally a picture of some green from when it was all back together:

dac2cca50ffcf2e19bd20d436301b0a5.jpg



Will take the car to a couple of mates garages tomorrow who both build engines for them to have a listen, check the old shells out and inspect the filter in the car to see if they think it's all healthy. :)
 
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Stormster said:
So, it is to do with the map then is what you're saying? lol.

It's good you've got stuck in though Gibbo, kudos to you and I bet you've learnt a lot so I can understand it will be personally rewarding too :)
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It could have been any map with a higher rev limit, the point is that it wasn't the fact the car has been mapped via email at all.
 
Only the rev limit, not the ignition table or anything like that. And has Gibbo has said it was probably on the way out anyway, seems a common thing on these engines. Rev limit probably pushed it beyond the edge.
 
S2KIP said:
Only the rev limit, not the ignition table or anything like that. And has Gibbo has said it was probably on the way out anyway, seems a common thing on these engines. Rev limit probably pushed it beyond the edge.
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This, infact it's a brilliant map after it was custom done on the dyno. Shame they just set the rpm to high. :(
 
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