***Official Electronics Thread of Officialness (it starts off with lots of Nixie Tube Clock goodness

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Wow, an electronics thread appears while I'm away. Looks like I've been missing out.

I've posted some of my exploits before in the DIY Audio thread where I've done headphone amps, DACs, Class D Tripath amps and a LCD displays.

I guess what I'm about to post is less "electronics" and more "electrical", but it's pretty cool anyway, and hopefully a bit different.:D

I've been involved in Cambridge University Eco Racing for the last couple of years. We build and race solar electric cars, and I've just got back from Australia where we raced 3000km across the outback against 35 other teams from around the world. We didn't do as well as we'd hoped but we were using an old car from 2009 and the weather screwed us over a bit. But we're still the UK's best car.:D

Here's our car in our pit garage at Hidden Valley Race Track, Darwin:
ysf1O.jpg

Two days into the race, and we're tilting the array to catch some late evening sun:
9GARU.jpg

We had a convoy of 5 vehicles, and I was driving chase. So this was my view for the whole week. We're driving through a zone that was ON FIRE only a few hours before:cool::
cHftx.jpg


And here's some of the "electronics" from inside the car. The main components are a 4kWh LiFePO4 battery pack, 6m^2 of silicon solar cells, a brushless DC hub motor with a really good controller, and a CAN bus that everything communicates over.

Driver controls/steering wheel. This was designed and built by a team member. The aluminium wheel was machined from a single solid piece and took about a week. Once the lid's on, the driver has 2 paddles, 12 buttons, 12 LEDs and the LCD. Far too much information to be useful, but seriously cool.
t0RCQ.jpg

Battery management system. Me and another guy designed and programmed this one. It takes data from an off-the-shelf lithium cell management system and opens and closes the safety contactors. It also passes all the data from one CAN bus to another, and enables it to be sent out over telemetry.
QsjKD.jpg

A slightly messy view of our electronics shelf. The main boards on show are the Maximum Power Point Trackers (MPPTs) which are essentially big, expensive DCDC converters that the solar array plugs into. These make sure you're always getting the most power possible from the sun.
jHP1Y.jpg


I have loads more pictures, and there are loads more electronics to be shown, but I'm still sifting through
 
p4radox, that's very cool. How come you were allowed to use off-the-shelf battery management? Obviously if that's what everyone else is doing then it's just easiest, but...would making your own have been feasible?
 
We used half and half, to be accurate. Our battery sponsor gave us the cells and their balancing hardware, we decided against using their overly complex CAN interface and safety box. The black PCB was what we developed and is a much more lightweight protection system.

As it turned out, our home-made hardware worked perfectly, whereas the professionally made balancing boards were a bit crumby. We had a few issues with capacitors falling off during the race, which was slightly concerning...

There are no competition rules about how much of the system you make yourself. The best teams subcontract all their carbon fibre work, for example, because with the best will in the world, students are never going to match the professionals. Most of our electrical system was designed and built by others, but we did our own CAN system, driver controls, and battery protection.

The better teams have large teams, large budgets, and take a sabbatical year off from studies, whereas we have to do it all in our spare time. This is extremely challenging, especially during the final year of a Cambridge MEng!:p
 
Just built my Nanode. It's essentially an Arduino that has a built in Ethernet port for under £20. You can hook it up to the Internet and use it as remote sensor or you could add an LCD and turn it into a Twitter client.

P1010836.JPG


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All seems to be working so far, managed to load up the DHCP test and it got an IP address and also tried out the web server example and served up a basic HTML page.
 
Tangent's guide is a good starting point as it is already an evolution of the original CMoy design. It's orignally what I used but with a few replacement components because I couldn't find them. I then made another with an Op-amp for the virtual ground part of the circuit and it behaves better.

Maybe worth a look at DIYAudio.com for any further evolutions of the design.
 
What a great project to be involved in! Is it all funded through sponsorship? Looking forward to more updates. :)

Yeah we're funded by sponsors. Our biggest are Schlumberger, Intel and Cambridge Precision who do quite a bit of machining for us.

The most useful sponsor for me personally was Farnell - they set us up a £5000 account to buy whatever we wanted with.:D

Unfortunately we're still a very poor team. We've been in the red all year, and despite popular opinion Cambridge is not a rich university and won't give us any money. What we would ideally like is a big energy company to give us a couple of million and attach their name to the project. Some teams (for example the Dutch) have this kind of deal, and it makes things a lot easier.

Any advice for a quality Cmoy?

Tangentsoft's page gives you all the basic details you need to get started. The most important modification I made was improving the power supply. A decent active rail splitter is a much better solution than a couple of resistors.:)
 
Tangentsoft's page gives you all the basic details you need to get started. The most important modification I made was improving the power supply. A decent active rail splitter is a much better solution than a couple of resistors.:)

Agreed. An op-amp or a TLE2426 based virtual ground will be more that adequate power wise for most CMoy designs :)
 
Forgive me if it is in this thread already but I searched and nothing came back.

I am a noobish, maybe a level above noob at electronics and would like do have a crack at this : http://amblone.com/guide for my HTPC Projector setup using 2 1M strips of LED's.

However I am unsure exactly what to buy. The microcontroller is easy enough to source, where is a good place to get the rest? I am not 100% sure on which RGB LED Strips to buy, and what Resistors and Transistors I need to go with them, some strips have resistors already, so does that mean I don't need the extra ones?


I can take a good guess at the stuff I need but if anyone can help make sure I buy the right stuff that would be excellent.

Thanks :)
 
Just built my Nanode. It's essentially an Arduino that has a built in Ethernet port for under £20. You can hook it up to the Internet and use it as remote sensor or you could add an LCD and turn it into a Twitter client.

http://rbrt.s3.amazonaws.com/P1010836.JPG[/i'mg]

[img]http://rbrt.s3.amazonaws.com/P1010837.JPG[/i'mg]

[img]http://rbrt.s3.amazonaws.com/P1010839.JPG[/i'mg]

All seems to be working so far, managed to load up the DHCP test and it got an IP address and also tried out the web server example and served up a basic HTML page.[/QUOTE]

What are the rest of its capabilities?

I am looking for something that can control lights on a timer (via relays / mosfets etc), can measure and report temperatures, and based on that info either turn on or off a heater. Ideally all ran from a central control PC and is infinitley expandable.
This way may work, as with a switch it can have plenty of expansion room.
 
I have a question; what's the best/cheapest way to remove the green layer on a PCB? Broke a few traces :(.

You will probably get a better answer, but when I have broke a trace in the past I found it easiest to just work backwards to the closest pad and add a patch wire in place of the track.
 
You will probably get a better answer, but when I have broke a trace in the past I found it easiest to just work backwards to the closest pad and add a patch wire in place of the track.

Yeah, I've thought about that but the pad goes to a contact that's on the outside of the plastic casing (NES Cart) so I can't really do that.

I'll try the knife idea out, cheers for the ideas guys :).
 
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