***Official Electronics Thread of Officialness (it starts off with lots of Nixie Tube Clock goodness

  • Thread starter Thread starter Aod
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That's a bit awkward but you have an advantage with the contact being so large, you will be able to scrape the green layer above the contact without causing damage as it's very wide, you could then route a wire back up to the hole in the middle of the circuit.
 
PhillyDee said:
What are the rest of its capabilities?

I am looking for something that can control lights on a timer (via relays / mosfets etc), can measure and report temperatures, and based on that info either turn on or off a heater. Ideally all ran from a central control PC and is infinitley expandable.
This way may work, as with a switch it can have plenty of expansion room.
Click to expand...

It's a general purpose microcontroller (ATmega 328) so all of that is possible, it has 6 analogue inputs (temperature, light, sound sensors etc.) and 14 digital input/outputs. You could quite easily program it with a RESTful script that allows you to issue commands from a program written on your computer and use the nanode to read sensors and operate outputs.

It also has a 4-pin bus that provides power and serial so you can hook up several of these with just 4 wires and talk to them all.
 
May have to buy one to experminet with. I have no knowledge at all of controllable microcontrollers (I have a makerbot, but that was just a case of uploading their stuff over FTDI and the chip programmer I have somewhere!) Its worth £25 or so anyway for a punt!
 
PhillyDee said:
May have to buy one to experminet with. I have no knowledge at all of controllable microcontrollers (I have a makerbot, but that was just a case of uploading their stuff over FTDI and the chip programmer I have somewhere!) Its worth £25 or so anyway for a punt!
Click to expand...

This guy has developed RESTduino which is a RESTful server for the Arduino/Nanode so you don't really need to know how to program the Arduino/Nanode if you're happy to write higher level code on the computer. Here he has an iPhone app controlling a nerf gun:


http://jasongullickson.posterous.com/restduino-arduino-hacking-for-the-rest-of-us
 
Thats just it, ive never written more than basic HTML, I am happy to dabble with stuff like PHP, and know little mySQL, but thats just picked upfrom webservers and the like. No doubt I will figure it out, I could tellyou exactly what it was for, and qhat I really want it to do, but that would be a secret, as it may be sold as a product for the less tech savvy. Then again, it may not!

I do know exactly what I want, how it will work, and what the end product will be, but the middle bit is completely missing :D.
 
Look what just arrived...

LargeTubeClock-20111109-144718.jpg


The tube underlighting on this one is surface mount LEDs and there's three per tube. I've never soldered anything SMD before, this'll be fun.
 
so I've had a cunning idea.

I have an old pair of these
product14996.jpg



they're a bit ratty and kinda crap now, and the aerial snapped out of the base station, but that'll be easy to fix.


I also have one of these,

xminiii2.jpg



which is sexy and awesome :p

it has it's own battery + it takes it's input from either a 3.5mm jack or a 3.5mm socket.

now what i'm thinking is can I take the headphones move both it's AAA batteries into one "cup" of the headphones and removing the other then wiring the speaker outputs into a 3.5mm jack or socket (probably jack cause i have no spare socket :p) so I'll have a single cup of a pair of ear phones with a able that plugs into the xmini so i can have a wireless speaker :D

so will it work or fail miserably? :p
 
Tefal said:
so can the Nanode do everything a normal arduino can or is it purely web/html stuff?
Click to expand...

Yes, it is an Arduino minus a couple of I/O ports that are used by the Ethernet controller. You still program it via the standard Arduino IDE, it is also compatible with the shields.
 
Electronics thread?

***Official Electronics Thread of Officialness (it starts off with lots of Nixie Tube Clock goodness)***

Starts with nixie tubes - has nixie tubes in the middle - has nixie tubes at the end.

I suppose they're 'perrty' and look nice next to your framed Samuria swords from Argos.
 
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Feek said:
I've actually tried. I've started writing one about four times but each time it's not gone well and I've deleted it before posting.
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I've done that quite a few times too, you write something then read it back and think it sounds condescending and stupid, but eventually you realize that nobody's going to read it anyway, and even if they do they're not going to care so you just go for it anyway :p

So what have you made for your HAM setup?
 
Ok, Ive had a PIC programmer a while as I used it for some console mod chips awhile back and decided to learn how to use PIC chips and a bit about electronics.

Ive currently got the following programmed to a PIC16F84-04/P


Code: 
#include "p16f84.inc"	; This includes PIC16F84 definitions for the MPASM assembler


;****Set up the port**** 

	bsf                    03h,5              ;Go to Bank 1
	MOVLW  b'00000'                 ;Put 00000 into W
	movwf              85h                  ;Move 00000 onto TRISA ? all pins set to output
	bcf                   03h,5               ;Come back to Bank 0

;****Turn the LED on**** 

	MOVLW  b'11111'      ;Write W register.  In binary this is 11111
                                     

	movwf              05h      ;Now move the contents of W (02h) onto the PortA, whose
                                     ;address is 05h                                                  ;and also just in case we miss                                                  ;the goto instruction.
	end

and following the wiring diagram on this attached on a breadboard with the addition of an LM317 and appropriate resistors to drop 9v to 3v and the 330k resistor has been substituted for a 4.7k as I wrote the wrong thing down before i went and bought the components.

the LM317 VRM circuit works fine as it will directly power the LED, and the PIC is programmed as it reads as it should.

http://frozennova.limewebs.com/progtu1.jpg
 
You haven't explicitly said what the problem is, but I'm assuming it's that the LED doesn't light up when powered via the PIC through a 4.7K resistor but does when you power it directly from the regulator.

Assuming that is the problem, the cause is the 4.7K resistor; it's far too high and will be resulting in next to no voltage across the LED. You need something considerably closer to 330 Ohm (not 330K, though I assume you actually meant 330 Ohm).
 
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