***Official GTX 670 thread***

[kitch9]

Yes it is a problem when trying to overclock these cards to their highest safe limit. The Gigabyte can do 1250ish Mhz and remain under 60 degrees without touching the fan so it won't throttle at all. Why should I pay for a card that is running at default speeds and temperature that cause the out of the box overclock to throttle due to not remaining below the thermal limits set by Nvidia?

Its not even an engineering issue, its purely software, and the GPU boost feature is really nothing more than an undesirable virus that can be disabled.

LOL whatever.

By default the cards are tuned to go to 80c under normal operation whilst keeping relatively quiet, so the fan will max out at around 55% with help from the boost lowering voltage and clocks by.........Wait for it....... Around 2%

OOOHHHH matron.....

Its up to you if you want a more aggressive fan profile to get that 2% back.

If not..... Deal with it.

 

[pgi947]

Looking good, look forward to results. I've hit almost the exact same wall as you with regard to stock OC. Will be interesting to see if the block helps as on air I wasn't getting above 54C even at 1360.

IF the wall is still there under water, we can rule out any kind of thermal choke, as the card will be running on a 1080 radiator, without a chiller the temps aren't getting any lower

My one hope is that all the temps are inter-linked to the throttle, the VRM's aren't very well cooled on any 670 card, also we don't know what heat the memory is kicking out, so the hopeful side of me is saying maybe something other than the core is heating and causing the choke.

Something to the effect of VRM temp = power draw, so for example if the temp hit 75c on the VRM, perhaps this calculates it as a power throttle, so the card reads 75c = max power draw, cut back. If that makes any sense

 

[andybird123]

this thread has become hilarious

for a hundred quid less than a 680 you get nigh on 680 performance out of the box and over 680 performance with a small OC... and yet everyone it whining like school girls about a cooler that hits 80C (like that's never happened before) which then loses them less than 1% of their FPS

if temps and noise and 1% of FPS is really that important then just buy a universal waterblock for 20 quid and stop whinging

 

[bhavv]

LOL whatever.

By default the cards are tuned to go to 80c under normal operation whilst keeping relatively quiet, so the fan will max out at around 55% with help from the boost lowering voltage and clocks by.........Wait for it....... Around 2%

OOOHHHH matron.....

Its up to you if you want a more aggressive fan profile to get that 2% back.

If not..... Deal with it.

Maybe you missed the whole part where the KFA2 cards running at maximum fan speed are still going over 70 degrees and throttling the card. Gigabyte windforce is staying below 60 degrees when overclocked with the stock fan profile.

Do you understand this issue any better now?

 

[kitch9]

IF the wall is still there under water, we can rule out any kind of thermal choke, as the card will be running on a 1080 radiator, without a chiller the temps aren't getting any lower

My one hope is that all the temps are inter-linked to the throttle, the VRM's aren't very well cooled on any 670 card, also we don't know what heat the memory is kicking out, so the hopeful side of me is saying maybe something other than the core is heating and causing the choke.

Something to the effect of VRM temp = power draw, so for example if the temp hit 75c on the VRM, perhaps this calculates it as a power throttle, so the card reads 75c = max power draw, cut back. If that makes any sense

With the new setup I don't think there's anyway the VRMS can be run out of spec and cause the symptoms you are hoping for.

 

[bhavv]

this thread has become hilarious

for a hundred quid less than a 680 you get nigh on 680 performance out of the box and over 680 performance with a small OC... and yet everyone it whining like school girls about a cooler that hits 80C (like that's never happened before) which then loses them less than 1% of their FPS

if temps and noise and 1% of FPS is really that important then just buy a universal waterblock for 20 quid and stop whinging

Correction.

A virus called GPU boost has never happened before.

 

[PCplodder]

this thread has become hilarious

for a hundred quid less than a 680 you get nigh on 680 performance out of the box and over 680 performance with a small OC... and yet everyone it whining like school girls about a cooler that hits 80C (like that's never happened before) which then loses them less than 1% of their FPS

if temps and noise and 1% of FPS is really that important then just buy a universal waterblock for 20 quid and stop whinging

Why should you have to buy a waterblock (and a radiator.. and a pump... and a res.. ect) or even a third party heatsink just to get acceptable temps and noise when you just spent £320 on a high performance card?

A 5770 has a better heat sink that a 670.....

If you spend that much money and on a high performance card that is designed to be overclocked, you expect it to have a half decent heat sink on it, not some flimsy thing about an inch big you would find at the £1 shop

 

[kitch9]

Maybe you missed the whole part where the KFA2 cards running at maximum fan speed are still going over 70 degrees and throttling the card. Gigabyte windforce is staying below 60 degrees when overclocked with the stock fan profile.

Do you understand this issue any better now?

No, because you are reading more into it than there is.

I've got a 680 by the way and I've just ordered a 670 for my other rig. Its simple, find your max boost that works under all conditions and that's your max boost. A Windforce model would give you an extra 2% if there was any way you could migrate your exact GPU onto the other card, but you can't so you'd have to use another GPU which as we know could possibly not clock as well full stop so this conversation would be completely irrelevant.

 

[bhavv]

Why should you have to buy a waterblock (and a radiator.. and a pump... and a res.. ect) or even a third party heatsink just to get acceptable temps and noise when you just spent £320 on a high performance card?

A 5770 has a better heat sink that a 670.....

A 5770 doesn't throttle when it reaches 80 degrees either. It won't even throttle at 90 degrees.

 

[~bones~]

this thread has become hilarious

for a hundred quid less than a 680 you get nigh on 680 performance out of the box and over 680 performance with a small OC... and yet everyone it whining like school girls about a cooler that hits 80C (like that's never happened before) which then loses them less than 1% of their FPS

if temps and noise and 1% of FPS is really that important then just buy a universal waterblock for 20 quid and stop whinging

The problem is some cards are doing the same job at apt lower temp so who wouldn't moan when you can get a better card for a fiver more

 

[kitch9]

Why should you have to buy a waterblock (and a radiator.. and a pump... and a res.. ect) or even a third party heatsink just to get acceptable temps and noise when you just spent £320 on a high performance card?

A 5770 has a better heat sink that a 670.....

If you spend that much money and on a high performance card that is designed to be overclocked, you expect it to have a half decent heat sink on it, not some flimsy thing about an inch big you would find at the £1 shop

http://www.guru3d.com/article/geforce-gtx-670-review/10

 

[bhavv]

No, because you are reading more into it than there is.

I've got a 680 by the way and I've just ordered a 670 for my other rig. Its simple, find your max boost that works under all conditions and that's your max boost. A Windforce model would give you an extra 2% if there was any way you could migrate your exact GPU onto the other card, but you can't so you'd have to use another GPU which as we know could possibly not clock as well full stop so this conversation would be completely irrelevant.

My max boost that works under all conditions is 1250 Mhz. If it reaches 70 or 80 degrees, my max boost is lowered.

Due to this virus, I cannot keep my card running at its maximum stable clock of 1250 Mhz. And you are right about potentially getting a card that's worse, and on top of paying to post mine back and paying more for a more expensive card, I could end up with one that's worse.

I should simply deal with my error of buying the KFA2 EX OC then, and advise other people not to buy it.

 

[kitch9]

A 5770 doesn't throttle when it reaches 80 degrees either. It won't even throttle at 90 degrees.

The 670 doesn't "throttle." You really are a bit daft aren't you?

 

[alex_123_fra]

IF the wall is still there under water, we can rule out any kind of thermal choke, as the card will be running on a 1080 radiator, without a chiller the temps aren't getting any lower

My one hope is that all the temps are inter-linked to the throttle, the VRM's aren't very well cooled on any 670 card, also we don't know what heat the memory is kicking out, so the hopeful side of me is saying maybe something other than the core is heating and causing the choke.

Something to the effect of VRM temp = power draw, so for example if the temp hit 75c on the VRM, perhaps this calculates it as a power throttle, so the card reads 75c = max power draw, cut back. If that makes any sense

Kind of hoping and not hoping this is true.

If true = I want to see 1500+ core clocks asap please plus I will be spending more money on watercooling the card(s). Mrs unhappy.

If not true = Save some money and enjoy the card as is. Mrs happy.

 

[bhavv]

http://www.guru3d.com/article/geforce-gtx-670-review/10

Those are open bench / case results, they always are when noise is measured, therefore they are an invalid method of comparing these results to a graphics card installed inside a normal rig.

 

[kitch9]

My max boost that works under all conditions is 1250 Mhz. If it reaches 70 or 80 degrees, my max boost is lowered.

Due to this virus, I cannot keep my card running at its maximum stable clock of 1250 Mhz. And you are right about potentially getting a card that's worse, and on top of paying to post mine back and paying more for a more expensive card, I could end up with one that's worse.

I should simply deal with my error of buying the KFA2 EX OC then, and advise other people not to buy it.

1250 isn't your maximum clock though, 1225 is. When playing games though it will mostly run at 1250, as temps will rarely go as high as benchmarking.

You maximum clock when benchmarking is 1225 (Or whatever boost sets.) NOT 1250.

 

[Xp0c]

The problem is some cards are doing the same job at apt lower temp so who wouldn't moan when you can get a better card for a fiver more

Maybe it's not the cards cooling. Maybe these guys have bad airflow in their case.

 

[bhavv]

The 670 doesn't "throttle." You really are a bit daft aren't you?

YES IT DOES!!!

ATI 5770s and GTX 560 Tis overclocked to 1 Ghz STAY AT 1 GHZ under maximum load regardless of temperature.

GTX 670 overclocked to 1250 Mhz THROTTLES to 1228 Mhz when it hits 80 degrees.

It doesn't matter if you find this clock speed reduction to be meaningless, THAT IS YOUR OPINION. I don't want my maximum overclocks being reduced in situations that could use them due to the GPU boost virus.

 

[bhavv]

1250 isn't your maximum clock though, 1225 is. When playing games though it will mostly run at 1250, as temps will rarely go as high as benchmarking.

You maximum clock when benchmarking is 1225 (Or whatever boost sets.) NOT 1250.

Boost sets my clock to 1250 MHz, stable for continous heaven loops if the temperature stays below 69 degrees.

1250 Mhz would be stable even at 90 degrees. Why should I have to have it reduced due to a virus?

 

[Xp0c]

YES IT DOES!!!

ATI 5770s and GTX 560 Tis overclocked to 1 Ghz STAY AT 1 GHZ under maximum load regardless of temperature.

GTX 670 overclocked to 1250 Mhz THROTTLES to 1228 Mhz when it hits 80 degrees.

It doesn't matter if you find this clock speed reduction to be meaningless, THAT IS YOUR OPINION. I don't want my maximum overclocks being reduced in situations that could use them due to the GPU boost virus.

Should have bought the 7970 or the 680 if you want that extra performance.
Changing cards and all that will have cost you the same.
I dont think you will be any further ahead with another 670.