** Official Mayhems Development Log **
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ToxicTBag - been running test this morning on the fluids.
Flux ... Ive filtered it down and stuck it under the microscope and we can see tiny particles of sticky flux so it looks like even though you've done your best to get what you can out, you may still have this problem for a while as the flux is still leaching into the water. The best advise for now is run your system with water + biocide for 1 month or even premix (if you need some just gis a shout ill bring some up) then flush again then switch to pastel. The partial count is also though the roof as is the PH of the liquid which explains it all.
If you need any thing else don't hesitate to contact me.
Btw every one what a nice bloke
and make brill cups of tea...
Flux ... Ive filtered it down and stuck it under the microscope and we can see tiny particles of sticky flux so it looks like even though you've done your best to get what you can out, you may still have this problem for a while as the flux is still leaching into the water. The best advise for now is run your system with water + biocide for 1 month or even premix (if you need some just gis a shout ill bring some up) then flush again then switch to pastel. The partial count is also though the roof as is the PH of the liquid which explains it all.
If you need any thing else don't hesitate to contact me.
Btw every one what a nice bloke
and make brill cups of tea...
Brilliant at least now I know. Am going to strip down today and keep the pastel for a few weeks down the line will just use ultra pure + biocide as you suggested.
I can see now that the first thing people think of is the fluid especially if they "have cleaned it thoroughly bicarb n all that" its the rad manafacturers that are using excess flux or not cleaning to a good enough standard etc a good point and one I would not have thought of until you explained it to me.
Am certainly looking at watercooling in a different light now, still love the temps and lack of noise but am thinking a bit more in depth than my usual "bang it in n leak test for 2 minutes" first few attempts.
Cheers Mick much appreciated
I can see now that the first thing people think of is the fluid especially if they "have cleaned it thoroughly bicarb n all that" its the rad manafacturers that are using excess flux or not cleaning to a good enough standard etc a good point and one I would not have thought of until you explained it to me.
Am certainly looking at watercooling in a different light now, still love the temps and lack of noise but am thinking a bit more in depth than my usual "bang it in n leak test for 2 minutes" first few attempts.
Cheers Mick much appreciated
ToxicTBag - been running test this morning on the fluids.
Flux ... Ive filtered it down and stuck it under the microscope and we can see tiny particles of sticky flux so it looks like even though you've done your best to get what you can out, you may still have this problem for a while as the flux is still leaching into the water. The best advise for now is run your system with water + biocide for 1 month or even premix (if you need some just gis a shout ill bring some up) then flush again then switch to pastel. The partial count is also though the roof as is the PH of the liquid which explains it all.
If you need any thing else don't hesitate to contact me.
Btw every one what a nice bloke
Most likely the same thing with mine then.
Im going to run the current pastel for a while then, then clean it out should give the best chance of removing any flux.
Is there anything more aggressive we can use over bicarb soda?
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You don't really want to go aggressive if you send me over you details with a recipient showing what you have bought we will replace the fluids no issues. How ever you never what to use any thing aggressive in your system, Think of it as a delicate ecological system if you put some thing to strong in there it will have long lasting implications. Some times, time is all it takes.
Copper radiators + Colour based Coolants.
Mayhems have been looking into a reported issue about the Red based coolants changing colour (Red to Dark Red and Black to Brown). This is a very rare issue but has been narrowed down a certain type of radiator.
When testing we found that just adding water and leaving overnight will turn the water Acidic meaning that either the rads have not been flush or somehow there is still acid left in the system. When acid is left on copper and air is introduced (in particular oxygen) it will create Copper Oxide over time. Copper Oxide is Blue / Green and this has a negative effect on colour coolants and will also have a negative effect on all coolants over time. (in the picture you can see a rad that has been not been cleaned turning the red coolant a deeper colour)
So say a Red coolant exposed to Copper Oxide it will start turning Dark Red (Red + Blue / Green = Dark Red). If Black is exposed Copper oxide it will turn Brown (Purple + Yellow + Copper Oxide = Brown)
It is imperative that rads are flushed properly and before use. If air is somehow trapped in a rad and the liquid is somehow acidic then once again copper oxide is created and again it will affect any coolants in the system. Some coolants do not react well with copper oxide and could over a period of time have an issue.
If somehow air is trapped in your rad end tank and the liquid is acidic once again it will produce copper oxide and once again this will affect any coolants in your system. Always make sure you remove all air out of you system and bleed them correctly.
Always flush your system fully and correctly and sometimes water alone does not do it. If you are going to acid clean your system using vinegar then you must neutralize that acid afterwards. You can use bicarbonate of soda to help do this or head down to your local aquarium shop and ask for animal safe products to bring the PH level back into neutral.
Also on a side note never add Copper Sulfate Biocide to Pastel as again the above will happen and if you have used copper sulfate in your system before using red pastel make sure you flush it out correctly.
Mayhems have been looking into a reported issue about the Red based coolants changing colour (Red to Dark Red and Black to Brown). This is a very rare issue but has been narrowed down a certain type of radiator.
When testing we found that just adding water and leaving overnight will turn the water Acidic meaning that either the rads have not been flush or somehow there is still acid left in the system. When acid is left on copper and air is introduced (in particular oxygen) it will create Copper Oxide over time. Copper Oxide is Blue / Green and this has a negative effect on colour coolants and will also have a negative effect on all coolants over time. (in the picture you can see a rad that has been not been cleaned turning the red coolant a deeper colour)
So say a Red coolant exposed to Copper Oxide it will start turning Dark Red (Red + Blue / Green = Dark Red). If Black is exposed Copper oxide it will turn Brown (Purple + Yellow + Copper Oxide = Brown)
It is imperative that rads are flushed properly and before use. If air is somehow trapped in a rad and the liquid is somehow acidic then once again copper oxide is created and again it will affect any coolants in the system. Some coolants do not react well with copper oxide and could over a period of time have an issue.
If somehow air is trapped in your rad end tank and the liquid is acidic once again it will produce copper oxide and once again this will affect any coolants in your system. Always make sure you remove all air out of you system and bleed them correctly.
Always flush your system fully and correctly and sometimes water alone does not do it. If you are going to acid clean your system using vinegar then you must neutralize that acid afterwards. You can use bicarbonate of soda to help do this or head down to your local aquarium shop and ask for animal safe products to bring the PH level back into neutral.
Also on a side note never add Copper Sulfate Biocide to Pastel as again the above will happen and if you have used copper sulfate in your system before using red pastel make sure you flush it out correctly.
Cuprous oxide (Cu2O) is red and cupric oxide (CuO) is black. (neither of these are soluble in water either, though Cu2O is soluble in acids) Copper (II) sulphate is blue (CuSO4) and copper (II) chloride (CuCl2 is green. (provided it is aqueous, else it is a brown solid) Copper carbonate (CuCO3) and copper hydroxide (Cu(OH)2) are also options as they have the typical verdigris colour you see copper go if left outside.
Also, metal oxide + acid = salt + water. So whatever is discolouring the coolant is actually a copper salt not an oxide. If you know the composition of the acid in the coolant, you can work out the salt.
Also, metal oxide + acid = salt + water. So whatever is discolouring the coolant is actually a copper salt not an oxide. If you know the composition of the acid in the coolant, you can work out the salt.
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Hello
I need some help with obtaining a particular color.
I need a sort of dark gold/brown, same shade as one used on Black/Gold bitfenix cables or on Asus Z87I-PRO motherboard.
I am making a system with 2 loops, other one will be a Mayhems Pastel - sunset yellow.
Any chance you can help me with obtaining that brown?
Cheers
BH
Ps. If you check my build log, in the sig, one of last pics shows both cables and motherboard part colored in brown I need to obtain.
I need some help with obtaining a particular color.
I need a sort of dark gold/brown, same shade as one used on Black/Gold bitfenix cables or on Asus Z87I-PRO motherboard.
I am making a system with 2 loops, other one will be a Mayhems Pastel - sunset yellow.
Any chance you can help me with obtaining that brown?
Cheers
BH
Ps. If you check my build log, in the sig, one of last pics shows both cables and motherboard part colored in brown I need to obtain.
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- 19 Feb 2010
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Afternoon guys..
You say to make the pastel fluid UV reactive takes a lot of dye. How much are talking here?
Also, I can't see here (or on your site), a UV red dye. Which should I use for pastel red? Or is it not possible?
Thanks
You say to make the pastel fluid UV reactive takes a lot of dye. How much are talking here?
Also, I can't see here (or on your site), a UV red dye. Which should I use for pastel red? Or is it not possible?
Thanks
I'm not that good with dyes yet, but if you start with a base color and slowly add little drops of the colors that you want. It's all about trial and error. Mix it outside the loop, when when you have the color you want, mix the rest and put it in
Because it's a pastel color it will take a lot. Not sure how much exactly but would require a fair amount. I'll ask Mick. as for the UV dye, all dyes come in UV and non UV versions.
Hi
I noticed there is no shade of green I will need in Pastel range, so I have a technical question.
Can I mix base pastel color with aurora concentrate?
Edit: what color is Ice Dragon and can it be mixed with dyes?
Cheers
I noticed there is no shade of green I will need in Pastel range, so I have a technical question.
Can I mix base pastel color with aurora concentrate?
Edit: what color is Ice Dragon and can it be mixed with dyes?
Cheers
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My pastel red has been running for 3-4 weeks now with the loop flushed with DI water for 12 hours and DI + BiCard of soda for 12 hrs, then a final rinse of pure DI again. Still going strong.
Spent a little while making sure there were no airlocks, but overall the system was easy to bleed, however I do really have oversized pumps for the job they're performing. Two 400lph pumps each running their own single block loop, airlocks don't stand a chance
Spent a little while making sure there were no airlocks, but overall the system was easy to bleed, however I do really have oversized pumps for the job they're performing. Two 400lph pumps each running their own single block loop, airlocks don't stand a chance