Pc failure help

alexsalter3d said:
Just took out the mobo now, is it still sellable you do think?
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For parts possibly - could take a punt and auction as faulty.

alexsalter3d said:
***Alos are there any rules when it comes to installation using a magnetic screw driver? And also, do I need to like ground the pc or something?
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Fine re screwdriver as long as it's not zoids powerful.

As for grounding: touch an exposed bit of radiator (copper pipe) to earth yourself now and then. Or keep the PSU plugged in (off) and touch the PSU screws at the back of the case, periodically.

Looking at images now - while grabbing a beer...
 
Having difficulty deciphering your fan set up:

In the below image your fans are pulling air from the heatsink to be extracted by the top 3(?) fans? (although this heatsink will be going after upgrade)
owY5uTz.jpg


I would have 2 x fans at the front (there's room)

TVF6Uz5.jpg


I would then remove the middle cage as you will the get direct airflow into the case and around your motherboard.

Keep the rear fan - especially if you get a smaller 120mm heatsink as you would direct it to vent out the rear. You could then have 1 top fan above your optical bays if you use them or in a more central position?. This is all i would keep and have them connected to the motherboard with a fan curve setup in the BIOS. Your system will then be silent/quiet still very cool.

sWP0x7E.jpg
 
Yeah on my old cooler I aimed the fans to extract the hot air upwards. That's great thank you, the middle cage looks rough to get out maybe riveted in. But I ll give it a go tomorrow. Just finished fully cleaning all the dust out. Looks way better now. Thanks for the fan plan. :)
 
https://postimg.cc/gallery/2gppdsrga/

Wow.... The CPU sold. Only been listed like 8 hours. When it sells that quick always makes you think you could have got more lol. Rams taking bit longer to sell though. Now I need to work out the best way to package this guy...... pics above show the front, some cleaned fans! And some other equipment. Tried to get close up of the cages too, below is cpu

https://postimg.cc/gallery/3eei5mwhm/

Well that's like 95£ straight off the credit card lol

Edit. https://postimg.cc/gallery/2mrx0j94q/
It sat on a little blue tac and the black box sat on a little blue tac and the black box surrounded by carrier bag too. There's one watcher on the ram now as well. I forgot about this merchants 10% cut they take as a fee or whatever. But nevermind. Still the bulk that counts

Edit https://postimg.cc/HV7Mw5sz

Edit. I finally worked out how to get one of the cages out lol https://postimg.cc/gallery/1y5bzwire/

One thing I can't decide on is a few of the fans directions. I thought that the general rule is intake at front and bottom and middle let's say. And outtake at back and the top. Is that true? Or is the general view to blast the core with as much direction flow as possible? With no out fans? Surely one is better than the other. I'm thinking the first option? Hot air rises so surely we want to expell? Thanks
 
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*on mobile

Intake at the front (bottom intake too, if required) and ideally on the front pulling air from behind front panel. Two would be ideal for a case that size - no real need for fans behind hdd.

Yes, extraction via rear and top, with the CPU fan (if tower cooler) aimed at venting via rear extraction (or top if required).

As, mentioned if you could reduce your fans from 14 to 4 and on a curve you'll be amazed at how quiet it is.

*First box, for chip, would be suffice in a folded jiffy if worried - would reduce your p&p.

EDIT: You could use some crumpled up brown paper to restrict chip movement within box.
 
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It's here! 11am delivery lol I added note and rang the merchant to try and request delivery as I'm out 2-7pm

https://postimg.cc/hJ9qWKbT

Honestly I love this merchant sometimes. It's a shame I couldn't get the ram as well. I ll havnt to wait till that arrives probably Tuesday . I presume I can't run the system with no ram?

I stuck the CPU down with a little blue tac and the black box down. And padded the black box out. I always send all my eBay's 2nd class signed for. And the post office moan if they can't apply all their labels , so that's why I went for a secondary case. I didn't have any bubble wallets or anything tbh

Im going to set up a curve up for sure. And see how quiet it is. Tbh I'd like all th fans on a curve, I mean is that doable? I can't see how but I feel it should be. Surely I can buy a brain module or something that regulates fans lol
 
alexsalter3d said:
I presume I can't run the system with no ram?
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You presume right - it would not be happy.

alexsalter3d said:
I stuck the CPU down with a little blue tac and the black box down.
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Not sure about the addition of blue tac within/attached to the CPU. I realise that the CPU couldn't flip inside that box but the 'buyer' could play silly buggers and say there's melted blue tac over contacts.

All you need is some crumpled paper to restrict movement and a bit of cushioning all within an additional jiffy - or your plastic box, if that's you're preferred method. But, again, I would use paper/bubble wrap within the plastic box - as the blue tac will get dislodged in transit.
 
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Yeah your right. I tried to find something to cushion it out but struggled . I should have just crumpled some plastic bag. I told the guy anyway and provided full photos . He seems okay with it all.

Now I can start setting it back up!

But like you said. I think I ll apply the CPU and cooler on the board on my table first.

https://postimg.cc/Pv4Sm5sb super happy so far
 
alexsalter3d said:
But like you said. I think I ll apply the CPU and cooler on the board on my table first.
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Definitely do this. Infinitely easier, eradicates shorting as an issue when testing initial boot, if there's a problem. Plus, it makes it easier to install as you can hold onto the cooler.
alexsalter3d said:
Case stand off keep out zones? I presume those highlighted I have to make sure those standoffs are empty and rest as full as I want?
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Only install the stand offs that align with the motherboard holes.
 
Man you need paying for the amount of assistance you provide on this fourm. I hope they reward you.

I expected the heatsink to screw into the back plate easier than it did, but I achieved it with all screws till they stopped screwing.

I really want to reassemble it tonight. I can add the ram when it's built can't I? It was hard dealing with the previous ram because of the k2 cooler but now should be easier.

The old mobo ive listed for 55 including postage and listed it's history. Theres one watcher already, and 12 views. Fair price? Or do you think I could squeeze more? The rams got a watcher as well

I've put the k2 up as well but I doubt this ll sell tbh
 
alexsalter3d said:
Man you need paying for the amount of assistance you provide on this fourm. I hope they reward you.
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I get the occasional warning for not starring out my swearing enough - but that's my bad.

It's a great distraction from work - plus, some great banter with members with similar interests/knowledge - and it's gratifying helping worthy members.

alexsalter3d said:
I really want to reassemble it tonight. I can add the ram when it's built can't I? It was hard dealing with the previous ram because of the k2 cooler but now should be easier.
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Yes, you could and memory would be simple to fix with that cooler - 2nd and 4th slot.

But, as mentioned previously there is a benefit in testing a new 'core' spec outside of the case first - shorting the power pins - as it's easier to troubleshoot if you have any issues. Plus, you don't have to remove everything from the case to rule out shorting if there was a problem. But you have a huge case so fitting/re-fitting not so much an issue.

alexsalter3d said:
The old mobo ive listed for 55 including postage and listed it's history. Theres one watcher already, and 12 views. Fair price? Or do you think I could squeeze more? The rams got a watcher as well
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No idea, i wouldn't buy it - but you've stated its history clearly so the onus is with the buyer. If someone buys it for parts (or is intrinsically stupid) - result!
 
If you hadn't have mentioned I would have put the ram in 1st and 2nd

I actually have no idea what shorting the power pins means? Is there any chance you could explain the whole process and why it's done please?

Thanks
 
Okay cool. I've found out. I need to hook it all up and rest the board on its box for example. And run it to see if it posts. And start it up with either board on button or touching the two pins with a flat head screw driver. Okay I get it now. Never done an out of case start up before
 
alexsalter3d said:
Okay cool. I've found out. I need to hook it all up and rest the board on its box for example. And run it to see if it posts. And start it up with either board on button or touching the two pins with a flat head acrewer driver. . Okay I get it now :D
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Missed your last post.
  • Place the motherboard on table/cardboard
  • install CPU/Heatsink, memory and GPU (the GPU is the one piece of hardware you need to be careful of - don't knock it)
  • attach the PSU
  • attach monitor/keybpoard
  • power up the system by briefly bridging the power pins with screwdriver - briefest of touches.
  • check system
 
Well the products listed on overclockers https://www.overclockers.co.uk/search?sSearch=Alpenföhn+AM4+mounting+kit+for+Olympus,+Atlas+and+Matterhorn+series but I don't know if the mount Doom is part of that series , I presume since that's what I mentioned in the email

Which is great news. So after a few weeks with a working bios I ll be able be to track temps . Then add the mount Doom and see if there's a difference or something : p means I won't have to throw the mount doom and waste invested money
 
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