No sorry, I meant a replacement glass panel for the glass version, not for the standard acrylic one.
*** Phanteks EVOLV Owners Thread ***
- Thread starter colinmcr
- Start date
No sorry, I meant a replacement glass panel for the glass version, not for the standard acrylic one.
Associate
Jasonst888 is right. We provide replacement / spare parts for purchase. Just send an email to [email protected] or [email protected] with your shipping details so we can give you a quote.
Man of Honour
I might have missed something here, but where the hell is the HDD activity LED on this case? Just migrated to the new build tonight and can't seem to find the HDD LED!
Man of Honour
Ah yes, gotta flip th USB port cover down to see it. Bit of an odd design choice to have it hidden!
Soldato
I did this and worked out very reasonable. For some reason I expected it to be silly prices but it was good value.
Thought I'd stop by and fly the flag for the Mini ITX owners
Liam.
Very nice, how did you find building the PC. I have the same case but in white. I rebuilt it a few times due to an RMA on my motherboard, found it quite tight with a h115i and a 1080 hybrid going in, but managed it.
Yours looks very tidy compared to my attempts.
Associate
Yes I think so. When I sneeze or cough next to mine I can hear it resonate through the case. It's on the desk next to my monitor so level with my head.
How much did your temps drop after you did the mod on the top panel please.
^ I know your question was aimed at Jasont, but there are also a couple of less severe mods that can help with temps.
1 - Adding rubber washers as spacers behind the brackets on the front panel. This increases the gap around the front panel for air to get in without altering the look of the case at all. See Here
2 - If you use a top mounted rad or CLC sealing up all the holes in the radiator bracket prevents the hot air leaking back in to the case. See Here
These two mods dropped my load temps by around 8 degrees.
1 - Adding rubber washers as spacers behind the brackets on the front panel. This increases the gap around the front panel for air to get in without altering the look of the case at all. See Here
2 - If you use a top mounted rad or CLC sealing up all the holes in the radiator bracket prevents the hot air leaking back in to the case. See Here
These two mods dropped my load temps by around 8 degrees.
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Associate
Thank you very much Zola. Both are great ideas. Cheers. 
8 Degrees is a good amount.
8 Degrees is a good amount.
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Man of Honour
Just to put into perspective how quiet the stock fans on this case are, I replaced the H115i fans with 2x Nanoxia DS14, and now the entire PC is deathly silent 
Associate
Does the top panel clip off the same as the front panel does then?
Associate
No there are 2 screws front and 2 on the back, then it lifts off quite easily.
Associate
Apologies for the delayed reply, only just popped into this thread again since my last post with the photo of my rig.
Many thanks for your reply too - originally when I built the rig it was mostly a breeze despite the decreased space when compared to ATX. Though I think in my case I may of had it easy because I measure & compact the cable lengths down with cable ties before hand and the fact that I'm using a Gigabyte 1060 so the card itself is smaller in comparison to the bigger counterparts.
The only thing that was a slight fiddle was fitting together my Be Quiet AIO onto the case and fixing down the CPU pump onto the motherboard due to limited space once everything else was together.
Another thing that I did originally was remove all of the bay compartments where the SSD/HDD's go - this was to allow for flexibility with the power cables going into the PSU but this was only a precaution. Upon installing the NZXT lighting kit a couple of weeks ago, I compressed down the PSU cables and reinstalled all the compartment frames in order to slot the lighting kit hub in place in the tray.
In my experience and taking into account that this is the Mini ITX version of the case, the cable management is superb - so many different places to put cable ties and cable ribbons across the back of the case & the ability to tie these ribbons to the case frame itself. Even after all the cable management in place the back case panel still slots into place with ease, and with no force at all (in comparison to previous ATX cases, where cable management was somewhat different - it used to be sometimes a challenge to reinstall the back panel due to all the cabling and also how narrow the access was).
The only thing I would change about the case and something I'm going to do soon to improve the airflow more is to remove the supplied front 200mm case fan and install 2 x 140mm case fans.
Liam.