Post Your Home Cine & HiFi Kit...
- Thread starter -AnthraX-
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Agreed - we need AudioPr0n 
I'm not sure my examples of butt-fugly "beauty on the inside" (ie electronically) DIY creations count
From the left - ADC 5572 with opamp front end (the red film caps in use for AC only), middle - my own designed and built 24.576MHz clock (low noise and jitter), my own design and build i2S and i2c digital isolator board, and finally (blue) on the right the STM32 board that acts as an Audio Class 2.0 USB device to i2s bridge. Outside to this there's three regulators on a protoboard (soon to be replaced by a proper PCB with SMT).
So the average noise floor is low -160dB currently at it's lowest average point... but like all ADCs we're only talking about †120dB dynamic range. So for any bit-tarts there.. for a 24bit chip (ADC or DAC) you're only likely to get about 18-20bits of that at most. (this s a 32bit chip but in reality it will still only give you 20bits before the noise hits).
The clock is a CCHD957 which starts at -100dB close in phase noise and is kept safe from external influence (ie noise corrupting the signal) by using a 4 layer board and using a clock distribution IC to provide a buffer (that's why there's three ports for the clock output). At some point I'll finish the shunt voltage power supply to reduce noise further. If I wanted I could drop that phase noise further starting at -130dB but todo that means the oscillator costs jump to almost £200 each! That's close in phase noise rather than the loons that attempt to use oven controlled clocks which have high long term accuracy but short term (close in phase noise) jitter they're not as good (starting at -60dB or even -40dB!)..
I'm not sure my examples of butt-fugly "beauty on the inside" (ie electronically) DIY creations count
From the left - ADC 5572 with opamp front end (the red film caps in use for AC only), middle - my own designed and built 24.576MHz clock (low noise and jitter), my own design and build i2S and i2c digital isolator board, and finally (blue) on the right the STM32 board that acts as an Audio Class 2.0 USB device to i2s bridge. Outside to this there's three regulators on a protoboard (soon to be replaced by a proper PCB with SMT).
So the average noise floor is low -160dB currently at it's lowest average point... but like all ADCs we're only talking about †120dB dynamic range. So for any bit-tarts there.. for a 24bit chip (ADC or DAC) you're only likely to get about 18-20bits of that at most. (this s a 32bit chip but in reality it will still only give you 20bits before the noise hits).
The clock is a CCHD957 which starts at -100dB close in phase noise and is kept safe from external influence (ie noise corrupting the signal) by using a 4 layer board and using a clock distribution IC to provide a buffer (that's why there's three ports for the clock output). At some point I'll finish the shunt voltage power supply to reduce noise further. If I wanted I could drop that phase noise further starting at -130dB but todo that means the oscillator costs jump to almost £200 each! That's close in phase noise rather than the loons that attempt to use oven controlled clocks which have high long term accuracy but short term (close in phase noise) jitter they're not as good (starting at -60dB or even -40dB!)..
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Not in the same class as yours but I'm so tempted to buy a bottlehead crack headphone amp to put together myselfAgreed - we need AudioPr0n
I'm not sure my examples of butt-fugly "beauty on the inside" (ie electronically) DIY creations count
From the left - ADC 5572 with opamp front end (the red film caps in use for AC only), middle - my own designed and built 24.576MHz clock (low noise and jitter), my own design and build i2S and i2c digital isolator board, and finally (blue) on the right the STM32 board that acts as an Audio Class 2.0 USB device to i2s bridge. Outside to this there's three regulators on a protoboard (soon to be replaced by a proper PCB with SMT).
So the average noise floor is low -160dB currently at it's lowest average point... but like all ADCs we're only talking about †120dB dynamic range. So for any bit-tarts there.. for a 24bit chip (ADC or DAC) you're only likely to get about 18-20bits of that at most. (this s a 32bit chip but in reality it will still only give you 20bits before the noise hits).
The clock is a CCHD957 which starts at -100dB close in phase noise and is kept safe from external influence (ie noise corrupting the signal) by using a 4 layer board and using a clock distribution IC to provide a buffer (that's why there's three ports for the clock output). At some point I'll finish the shunt voltage power supply to reduce noise further. If I wanted I could drop that phase noise further starting at -130dB but todo that means the oscillator costs jump to almost £200 each! That's close in phase noise rather than the loons that attempt to use oven controlled clocks which have high long term accuracy but short term (close in phase noise) jitter they're not as good (starting at -60dB or even -40dB!)..
Soldato
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- 6 Sep 2016
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Agreed - we need AudioPr0n
I'm not sure my examples of butt-fugly "beauty on the inside" (ie electronically) DIY creations count
From the left - ADC 5572 with opamp front end (the red film caps in use for AC only), middle - my own designed and built 24.576MHz clock (low noise and jitter), my own design and build i2S and i2c digital isolator board, and finally (blue) on the right the STM32 board that acts as an Audio Class 2.0 USB device to i2s bridge. Outside to this there's three regulators on a protoboard (soon to be replaced by a proper PCB with SMT).
So the average noise floor is low -160dB currently at it's lowest average point... but like all ADCs we're only talking about †120dB dynamic range. So for any bit-tarts there.. for a 24bit chip (ADC or DAC) you're only likely to get about 18-20bits of that at most. (this s a 32bit chip but in reality it will still only give you 20bits before the noise hits).
The clock is a CCHD957 which starts at -100dB close in phase noise and is kept safe from external influence (ie noise corrupting the signal) by using a 4 layer board and using a clock distribution IC to provide a buffer (that's why there's three ports for the clock output). At some point I'll finish the shunt voltage power supply to reduce noise further. If I wanted I could drop that phase noise further starting at -130dB but todo that means the oscillator costs jump to almost £200 each! That's close in phase noise rather than the loons that attempt to use oven controlled clocks which have high long term accuracy but short term (close in phase noise) jitter they're not as good (starting at -60dB or even -40dB!)..
So when are you putting it together with your box of bits?
There's a lot of options and improvements you can make (some people go overboard). I have designed my own tube headphone amps so I'm familiar with bottle head.
It's fully operational now. I have to order to finish from Farnell - it will cover adding a linear AC mains PS and the parts for a set of SMT PCBs. It's there to provide measurements for audio devices (the requirement is for differential signal analysis).
Next I have the RTZ DAC to finish (the PCBs for that are stuffed but for about 5 components that Mouser backordered - again in the Farnell order). Then I will have a pure DSD streaming DAC
The final step is to finish the tube - hybrid tube amp. It's differential (ie XLR input, fully differential through the design - basically 4 amps and 9 power supplies) can then take the DSD DAC in.. only thing is it's fully different output so the headphones will need updating (currently my existing phones are single ended).
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Basically REW allows you to create test sounds, using a calibrated microphone that you can position in various places (such as your listening position at each ear). It can then create filters to correct the sound based on those measurements. You can load those filters into the DSP (for example CamillaDSP) and the system will correct the frequency response for the room and your kit on the fly.
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The “monster” has arrived, ie the BAT power amp, all 50kg of it.
Temporarily dumped it in front of my other electronics such that the various leads can reach.
Currently warming up, but sounding “pretty good”.
Temporarily dumped it in front of my other electronics such that the various leads can reach.
Currently warming up, but sounding “pretty good”.
Probably needs a good few hours to let the caps fully charge and the system to reach equilibrium. My ADC takes about an hour for the parts to get to a stable temps, same with my A220 and every other piece of kit I have.. should be interesting with the speakers you have.
South west London.
I did own a Strata 3 for a little while. The Storm to me went deeper and was more natural.
Soldato
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- 6 Sep 2016
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For movies you need to upgrade, those old rel subs woefully inadequate for modern movies. Find and plenty for music though.
Look into svs pb2000 pro or similar
My system has always been more optimised for music than AV and that’s not something that I’m looking to change.
Soldato
- Joined
- 6 Sep 2016
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I'd recommend using a sub sonic filter as they never had that, probably add several extra output and lower distortion by quite a bit
My system has always been more optimised for music than AV and that’s not something that I’m looking to changej
Sorry, you’ll have to explain that to me