Post Your Home Cine & HiFi Kit...

I added this to my system last week to replace a Dynavector P75 MKiii.

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You may well ask "why" The answer is very simple. Even if you was to buy it based just on reviews alone the overriding thing that must peak any vinyl users interest is the technical specs. It is just THE quietest phono stage that exists at any price.
The whole design and build philosophy is based around simplicity, well chosen components, meticulous attention to detail and good workmanship.
What does this produce for us as an end user ? You hear everything that any piece of vinyl has to offer. Along with gorgeous mids, highs, copious amounts of bass and a soundstage to die for.
I don't see myself ever needing to replace this, unless Mr Fidler designs another one even better.
 
I had a quick look on Audio Science review and also the companies web-site about these, what is the dial marked xfeed on it do? Are they sold with the linear PSU, or do you have to choose one yourself. I looked at prices but could not find one for sale.
 
JasonM said:
I had a quick look on Audio Science review and also the companies web-site about these, what is the dial marked xfeed on it do? Are they sold with the linear PSU, or do you have to choose one yourself. I looked at prices but could not find one for sale.
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XFEED is low frequency filter that is particularly useful when listening on headphones. Lets say bass is a bit muffled and not as defined as it would be listening via speakers. If you switch on LF XFEED and select 120Hz everything below 120Hz will be shifted to Mono. Bass when shifted to mono becomes more defined and has more clout.
It is selectable from 65Hz up to 600Hz. It also works with speakers as well, at least it does with my Spendor A9's. Probably because the bass crossover point on my speakers is 500Hz. The effect on my speakers is the mids just sing with a real richness that absolutely frees up the treble sweetness, with the added bonus that the bass has better definition and clout.
The stage comes with a linear power supply. In fact if you use another power supply the warranty is void.

There are no dealers, you have to buy it direct from Michael Fidler.
 
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GoRedwings19 said:
But If I have to fork over 12k I would rather it be a Class A/B.
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Rather than class D? Why?


A good amplifier is a good amplifier. Class D enables cheaper production costs but it doesn’t automatically mean bad sounding.




Some of the best sounding amplifiers are Class D. I would rather rate each amplifier on its own merit, rather than pick an amplifier based on topology and circuit design :-)
 
MrRockliffe said:
Rather than class D? Why?


A good amplifier is a good amplifier. Class D enables cheaper production costs but it doesn’t automatically mean bad sounding.




Some of the best sounding amplifiers are Class D. I would rather rate each amplifier on its own merit, rather than pick an amplifier based on topology and circuit design :-)
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Class A is where it's at.

www.whathifi.com

Musical Fidelity A1 review

An iconic amplifier design of the 1980s makes a welcome return
www.whathifi.com www.whathifi.com
 
MrRockliffe said:
Rather than class D? Why?


A good amplifier is a good amplifier. Class D enables cheaper production costs but it doesn’t automatically mean bad sounding.




Some of the best sounding amplifiers are Class D. I would rather rate each amplifier on its own merit, rather than pick an amplifier based on topology and circuit design :-)
Click to expand...
My experience of Class D amps is somewhat limited. I have owned the NAD 3020 and 3090 and hated them. I Suspect the pairing of that and the B&W Pm-1 to not be an ideal synergy match. Then I had a Marantz HD-1amp which i still used till earlier this year until it developed a fault (looking to get it repaired). Then I tried the Marantz Pm-10, Marantz high end integrated Class D amp stupidly powerful and capable. It was fine with my speakers but not what I would describe as reference type amp. I tried a few chords amps and didn't get on with them.

What I find all these amps have in common is I find them dry sounding. Sure they fine for setups and particular use cases. But for me and this is just solely me, so if you have heard a class D amp and thought it was the best sounding amp then I am happy for you but for me I have never heard any class D amp where I have felt the desire to make the jump.

Who knows? Maybe something like the Marantz model 10 might blow me away and convince me. But until I get it in my setup I don't think class D is for me although I have yet to hear a Jeff Rowland take on Class D.
 
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kitfit1 said:
XFEED is low frequency filter that is particularly useful when listening on headphones. Lets say bass is a bit muffled and not as defined as it would be listening via speakers. If you switch on LF XFEED and select 120Hz everything below 120Hz will be shifted to Mono. Bass when shifted to mono becomes more defined and has more clout.
It is selectable from 65Hz up to 600Hz. It also works with speakers as well, at least it does with my Spendor A9's. Probably because the bass crossover point on my speakers is 500Hz. The effect on my speakers is the mids just sing with a real richness that absolutely frees up the treble sweetness, with the added bonus that the bass has better definition and clout.
The stage comes with a linear power supply. In fact if you use another power supply the warranty is void.

There are no dealers, you have to buy it direct from Michael Fidler.
Click to expand...

This might be a daft question, but how does the MC Pro connect into your amp. Are you connecting the MC Pro into another pre-amp, or are you going directly into the amp's pre-amp input? Also are you using RCA out or XLR out from the MC Pro.
 
JasonM said:
This might be a daft question, but how does the MC Pro connect into your amp. Are you connecting the MC Pro into another pre-amp, or are you going directly into the amp's pre-amp input? Also are you using RCA out or XLR out from the MC Pro.
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My amp is a Naim Supernait 2, so going directly into an RCA input from the MC Pro's RCA out. Using Vertere Red Line on all signal cables.
 
kitfit1 said:
My amp is a Naim Supernait 2, so going directly into an RCA input from the MC Pro's RCA out. Using Vertere Red Line on all signal cables.
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So it's still going into a line in on the pre-amp side of the Supernait 2.

I've got a Technics 1200g and i'm using the phono stage of the Yamaha A-S1200, I considered using a MC PRO, and feeding the MC PRO into the Yamaha's Pre amp input, and bypassing the Yamaha's pre-amp all together, but looking at it, I don't think that's possible.
 
The mod box arrived that my mate designed for me. Allows me to use a third party subwoofer wirelessly with the Sony bravia quads. Ended up going for the Elac RS500 as it fit the location where the SW5 was and I liked that it had auto eq room correction and a nice app for adjustments. Definitely a big step up from the Sony RS5 sub and has really helped to enhance the system.

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hornetstinger said:
I don't know why "multi platform soundbar wireless out to RCA box" isn't a thing.

I guess each brand uses their own band, frequency?
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So they can make more money with their own subs basically. :p I bought a cheap banged up SW3 off of eBay and he just took the board out of that. As far as the Sony system goes it just 'thinks' that a SW3 is attached to it. As the subwoofer already has an amplifier built in, the signal is converted into a low voltage signal and then the built in subwoofer amplifier repurposes that signal, so wasn't any point buying the SW5 (or using my original one as traded that in) as it could be a 10w signal and it would still work.

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Sadly the other port was an input port so he couldn't bypass and make use of sub out. Doesn't matter though, it's working really well and the original Sony sub didn't have any room correction or any EQ / PEQ etc so it's helped to dial it in much better.

Original board on the SW3 backboard.


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Then compacted down onto the mod box.

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Still got the original buttons if ever need to pair power off there etc although it works flawlessly with the system. Powers on and off immediately like the speakers do when you switch the TV on/off.

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Could the amplifier section on the Sony be switched off/disconnected/removed etc, otherwise it will be using more power than a "line level device" would be using. Typically you'll have three parts in a active subwoofer, they may be on the same board or different boards etc

1) PSU
2) Control board
3) Amplifier board

Unless the control board does a hardware check on the amplifier board
 
GoRedwings19 said:
My experience of Class D amps is somewhat limited. I have owned the NAD 3020 and 3090 and hated them. I Suspect the pairing of that and the B&W Pm-1 to not be an ideal synergy match. Then I had a Marantz HD-1amp which i still used till earlier this year until it developed a fault (looking to get it repaired). Then I tried the Marantz Pm-10, Marantz high end integrated Class D amp stupidly powerful and capable. It was fine with my speakers but not what I would describe as reference type amp. I tried a few chords amps and didn't get on with them.

What I find all these amps have in common is I find them dry sounding. Sure they fine for setups and particular use cases. But for me and this is just solely me, so if you have heard a class D amp and thought it was the best sounding amp then I am happy for you but for me I have never heard any class D amp where I have felt the desire to make the jump.

Who knows? Maybe something like the Marantz model 10 might blow me away and convince me. But until I get it in my setup I don't think class D is for me although I have yet to hear a Jeff Rowland take on Class D.
Click to expand...

Similar.
I’ve heard class D from some cheapy tripath 2024, a low end Wadia 151, through a couple of Bel Canto tripaths, several of their Ice powered units and the Tact/lyngdorf gear.
Pretty much all of it was very clean and some had seemingly unlimited power and great bass control.

Having said all of that, I ended up with a Class AB unit. Just engages me better. Can’t really explain why.
The BC tripath was the best of the class D for engagement.
The Tact was the best for “hi-fi”. I’d take my current AB any day of the week, despite it costing massively more to run.
 
I am sad to report that my much loved Naim Supernait 2 is now retired and about to go to a new home.
Relaced though by two pre-loved bits of Naim amplification, a NAC 282 preamp and a NAP 250 DR power amp.............................................i is in music heaven :)


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