Power Tools & General Tools Recommendations & Advice

yeah
TBH a electric one would be better as you are in an attic
Gotta watch the fumes with a petrol one in an enclosed space
Don`t for get the usual safety gear mask,earplugs and goggles.Some way to vent the fumes or only cut for a min or two then GET OUT FOR A FEW MINS to let the fumes clear
EDIT looking at that pic again i would probably go for drilling a row of holes and a hammer+chisel or breaker gun.Not a great amount of bricks to remove
 
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ANDARIAL said:
yeah
TBH a electric one would be better as you are in an attic
Gotta watch the fumes with a petrol one in an enclosed space
Don`t for get the usual safety gear mask,earplugs and goggles.Some way to vent the fumes or only cut for a min or two then GET OUT FOR A FEW MINS to let the fumes clear
EDIT looking at that pic again i would probably go for drilling a row of holes and a hammer+chisel or breaker gun.Not a great amount of bricks to remove
Click to expand...

Certainly would be less mess - my 4" grinder put lots of dust up (even put water down) doing hard concrete slabs. It would go through brick but the depth would be an issue. SDS drill could be an option. Hammer and chisel another.

I'd be tempted to run a vaccum nearby to remove some of the dust.
 
If you have a 115mm grinder then use that, vut as much as you can then chisel out the rest, if you don't already have the grinder though, I'd just drill a chain of holes and chisel out the rest, is the surface finish important?
 
The edges of the holes actually line up with some of the edges of the bricks below it. I would just drill the mortar out on them and remove the whole bricks, then use a drill/hammer/bolster and your small grinder the tidy up the few bricks that actually need to be cut rather than removed entirely. If a really neat finish is needed, then completely remove the bricks you have had to cut down (scrape of any old mortar off the un cut end), spin them round so the cut end is not showing and re-mortar then in place.

Dave
 
Marvt74;30488276 said:
Moving onto Impact Drivers. Can anyone explain the difference between these?

http://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-eri692ipd-18v-2-0ah-li-ion-brushless-cordless-impact-driver/5012p

http://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-eri6041pd-18v-2-0ah-li-ion-cordless-impact-driver/7485f

Being Erbauer the only source of info is screwfix. One has a slightly higher torque but the other is faster and lighter. Seems bizarre to have 2 models so similar though.
Click to expand...
Top link has more torque and is the newer model.
 
Having failed at trying to drive some 7.5mm concrete screws today i've decided i definitely now need an Impact Driver!

Now am just in two minds between the Erbauer one above for £100 with 2 batteries or the Dewalt DCF886. The dewalt is about £10 cheaper but is the naked tool.

I have other tools for the batteries but convinience wise it would be handy not to mess around digging out batteries from other tools.
 
Well i ordered the Dewalt which should be here tomorrow but was in the Lowry Outlet Centre today and they had a Stanley Fatmax 10.8v impact driver for £50 with an extra £10 off for good measure so picked it up.

Will see if it's up to the job an return the other. Or be lazy and keep both!
 
Marvt74 said:
Having failed at trying to drive some 7.5mm concrete screws today i've decided i definitely now need an Impact Driver!
Click to expand...
What are you driving them into? If its a hard engineering brick even my 160nm impact driver struggles sometimes. The brick is so hard it just strips the teeth off the screw. I usually use a slightly larger drill bit for super hard bricks, which helps a lot.

The Dewalt DCF886 should be a lot better than the fatmax, but i guess for £40 you can't complain if it does what you need.
 
It's a stone gatepost

Not the best pic but

nvf6yIp.jpg

The wood is coming away from the stone wall. Because it's just a rented house my mother in law has just moved into i didn't want to pull the whole wood piece off to start again which would have been the better solution, so i drilled a few 6mm holes and then got 7.5mm concrete screws to try and pull the wood back into place.
 
Yeah stone can be hard on these screws as well, an impact driver should do the job though. I'd tap the post back up to the stone with a hammer before putting the concrete screws in as the thread will bite into the timber as well as the stone, so it wont pull the post upto the stone like a normal screw would.
 
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