Power Tools & General Tools Recommendations & Advice

Soldato
Joined
19 Oct 2002
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Soldato
Joined
13 Jan 2003
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23,656
Idea is to buy a worktop and fit it myself as a temporary stop gap until we have the funds saved to redo the house with a 1st floor extension.


Annoyingly I have a 1/4" collet router already, but I suspect that it won't have the length of bit to cut cleanly through a worktop. I may look at trading up..

Looking at this - the Ebauer 1/2" seems ok (although some comments about accuracy).. then a Trend Worktop Jig.. I have the clamps and made a big work bench in the garage already..
 
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Soldato
Joined
6 Nov 2002
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9,790
Location
London UK
Fitting a worktop is a skill and you don't want your first practice to be on your newly purchased lump of wood or laminate.

If hell bent on doing it yourself either practice on whatever worktop you are replacing or try and pick up a very cheap offset.

However for the cost of the tools (saw, router, and bits) it would be far cheaper to just pay someone to fit the already purchased worktop, I'd expect they would only charge £100-200 depending on how many costs/joins needed.
 
Soldato
Joined
5 Aug 2013
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6,611
Location
Shropshire
I have been thrashing my 18v Stanley one now for two weeks - it's a great tool and quick release for blades is so much easier than screwing them on.

Still got another two weeks of sanding to do so might get 240v Lidl one out and wear that one out :)
 
Soldato
Joined
20 Feb 2004
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21,269
Location
Hondon de las Nieves, Spain
When i was looking for mine i found that a lot of opinions were that 1/4" was rubbish and people should only ever buy 1/2" ones.

I couldn't justify a 1/2" one so bought the 1/4" Erbauer one. It's been great for my needs. Similar to you just routing out recesses on the back of frames for glass to sit etc. I've since used a Dewalt and Makita one, and for the same type of job i didn't notice much difference with those and mine. I think the main difference is if you try and cut into hardwoods that the bigger, more powerful units come into their own.

I'd have said that one would be fine. It gets decent reviews. Don't forget to budget for a set of router bits. I think i bought mine from Aldi which were pretty cheap.
 
Soldato
Joined
13 Jan 2003
Posts
23,656
When i was looking for mine i found that a lot of opinions were that 1/4" was rubbish and people should only ever buy 1/2" ones.

I couldn't justify a 1/2" one so bought the 1/4" Erbauer one. It's been great for my needs. Similar to you just routing out recesses on the back of frames for glass to sit etc. I've since used a Dewalt and Makita one, and for the same type of job i didn't notice much difference with those and mine. I think the main difference is if you try and cut into hardwoods that the bigger, more powerful units come into their own.

I'd have said that one would be fine. It gets decent reviews. Don't forget to budget for a set of router bits. I think i bought mine from Aldi which were pretty cheap.

Agreed - you can do a deep cut with a 1/4 but you need to take it easy and to a little each step, they don't have the power.
Also for using a worktop/other jig - check the guide tube diameter as it will need to match the jig.

Also don't under estimate the amount of mess they make.. wear a breathing mask and get a vacuum attached.
 
Soldato
Joined
20 Feb 2004
Posts
21,269
Location
Hondon de las Nieves, Spain
Could i get away with a 115mm angle grinder for cutting through a single brick wall?

I want to open up this opening to the floor and i figure an angle grinder is the best way to go about it. I initially thought i'd need a 230mm one but think i might get away with a bit smaller. I have access from both sides (i hope as it not 100% i'll get flush from the other side).

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Otherwise i've been looking at getting a circular saw, could i just use that, and fit a brick blade to it.

Or do i just go the cheap approach and drill a series of holes downwards and then chisel it out.
 
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