Project: Garage Office/Workshop Thread

Soldato
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Joined
23 Nov 2004
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3,769
Got the plasterboard up last night. My brother came over to help and has some great time saving tools to make it much quicker (Board floor lifter, magazined Plasterboard drill/driver & a Plasterboard Router). We started at 4:00pm and finished at about 8:00pm so not too bad going as we finished everything including the window reveals.

Did the Ceiling first so the wall boards support it around the edges. First Board in place:
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Progress:
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Ceiling done, onto the walls:
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Closeup of a corner
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Window reveal a bit messy, but will be tidied up and covered with a timber window board/sill:
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Also took a couple more in some daylight this morning:
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It was a bit of a mission to get it all done in one hit and a lot of dust/mess to clear up afterwards. The plasterboard dust seems to have engrained itself into the Chipboard flooring. Don't know if I'll try to work out how to remove that or just leave it as it will be covered!

So next it's on to Tape and Joining which one of my other brothers has offered to do as he's done a bit before and owes me a few favours. Will then Mist coat the room.

Now need to think about:

  • Flooring - Considering Laminate/LVT/LFT/Vinyl - Which would work best with an office chair? I don't want to be changing it after a year due to it fading/wearing under the chair
  • Heating - Considering a Wi-Fi controlled heater but not many about that have positive reviews. Want to be able to turn it on, etc from the house before I go out to work in there.
  • Paint - Think I'll just go White
  • Skirting/Architrave - Again, white
  • Door lining & Door - Solid door (did consider windowed door but don't think it would be a nice view into a garage!
I'll then need to think about Desk, etc. I'm thinking I want a height adjustable sit/stand desk so both me and the Mrs can work at the desk. Will go as big as I can. Will also need to consider what else to put in there but still undecided on that and open to suggestions.

Comments/thoughts welcome.
 
Associate
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Installed hundreds of Km of Catx cabling, never once used a labeller, sharpie every time. Not saying that you shouldnt use a labeller, but when you have a braid of cables in your hand, that you are toning out and coning, you dont really want to be reaching for a dymo and starting to try and type labels. Other problem with labels, even wrap around is that unless your cables are 100% clean and dry, they dont stick well. Sharpies will write on almost anything.
 
Soldato
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3,769
So after finishing the Plasterboarding, I was then away for just over a week, but whilst away my brother had been around a few times making a start on the tape and joining. He's done a bit before so had a good idea on the best methods. We then decided to rub back all the filler and give the room a quick coat of paint to make it easier to see where needed extra filling, etc:

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Quick coat of paint:

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Fingers crossed it looks pretty good in daylight, but should be able to see the bits that need filling easier. Plan is to finish any filling tomorrow, then another quick coat of paint. Will then be:

  • Flooring - Considering Laminate/LVT/LFT/Vinyl - Which would work best with an office chair? I don't want to be changing it after a year due to it fading/wearing under the chair
  • Skirting/Architrave - White MDF I think.
  • Door lining & Door - Solid door (did consider windowed door but don't think it would be a nice view into a garage!
  • Second fix Electric for sockets/downlights (4x LED ones on a dimmer switch)
  • Second fix for Network
  • Paint - final coat
  • Plasterboard outside wall
  • Finished???
Starting to look like an actual room now.

Please post any questions/feedback!
 
Soldato
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Minor progress - Gave the room another coat of paint. Made a huge difference and looks good in daylight:

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I'm now negotiating with my friend that does flooring to get this doen ASAP. He's convinced me to go gluedown LVT and am awaiting some samples so I can choose a colour. He's said despite the flooring being flat/smooth he will want to put down some marine ply first. Adds to the cost but he's stated it will be much better.

Can then continue with the below:
  • Skirting/Architrave - White MDF I think.
  • Door lining & Door - Solid door (did consider windowed door but don't think it would be a nice view into a garage!
  • Second fix Electric for sockets/downlights (4x LED ones on a dimmer switch)
  • Second fix for Network
  • Paint - final coat
  • Plasterboard outside wall
  • Purchase Desk (Electric height adjustable desk frame + Worktop/desktop)
  • Finished???
 
Soldato
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Looking good, am surprised the joins don't show without fully plastering.

If it were me I'd consider some uPVC skirting since it's forever maintenance free.

Yep, can't see them at all anymore.

I've never done it this way either, but from what I'm told its not very much a done method to save on drying time, etc. Lots of new builds have it. I guess it depends how well you can fill/sand it though.
 
Soldato
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Location
West Sussex, England
Yep, can't see them at all anymore.

I've never done it this way either, but from what I'm told its not very much a done method to save on drying time, etc. Lots of new builds have it. I guess it depends how well you can fill/sand it though.

It probably helps that it's white as it reflects the light and doesn't highlight imperfections as much which is probably why new builds are often off white. It's fine for a garage room, I don't really approve of it inside a house as ours isn't done great, harder for it not to show on big expanse like along a staircase where the light catches it side on.
 
Soldato
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It probably helps that it's white as it reflects the light and doesn't highlight imperfections as much which is probably why new builds are often off white. It's fine for a garage room, I don't really approve of it inside a house as ours isn't done great, harder for it not to show on big expanse like along a staircase where the light catches it side on.

I was also not convinced before this. However I did some research and it seems to be quite a widely used method now. You can turn a room around much quicker and have it ready for decoration quicker without a massive tone of moisture to have to dry out first, etc. Looking at some of the videos on YouTube, people do it in large/premium quality rooms.

Will wait and see once it's finished how well it does.
 
Soldato
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Right bit of an update.... Electrician came and did the second fix this morning:

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So all sockets are now live and the 4x LED spot lights are in and working.
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Then this evening my friend came round and fitted some Vinyl flooring:

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I've been pushing the last couple of weeks to get this finished, so I went with what my friend had in stock. LVT was my preference but the stuff he had was too dark and lighter shades would have taken time to order in. I was tempted by Carpet tiles but again, the ones he had weren't great. Regardless, it looks light and fresh. Pleased with the result.

So next on the list is:
  • Plasterboard outside wall
  • Skirting/Arcitrave/Door Lining & Door
  • Second Fix Network sockets/Patch Panel/Switch
  • Run external direct bury CAT6 Cable (need to dig a small trench for this about 30m long and go in through the side of the garage wall to patch panel)
  • Fit Window sill/board
  • Final coat of paint on walls + paint wood work
Will try to get the network stuff done this weekend if I get some time. Never terminated Network cables before/done patch panel punchdowns so am a bit nervous about doing this and it being done well. Fingers crossed I can do it.

I've also ordered my standing desk frame/motors and worktop. Will post details on that.

Any feedback/suggestions welcome.
 
Soldato
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23 Nov 2004
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Update...

I have now terminated the CAT6 into the wall sockets:
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Probably not the best job in the world, but like most things with this project, it is the first time I have done it.
I stupidly bought Shielded cable which I haven't grounded or used Shielded modules, etc. I didn't realise until after I had done it. Fingers crossed I don't get any issues with it as changing them would be a right pain in the arse.

I have also fitted my mini comms cabinet to the Garage side of the room, so now need to terminate all the cables to it and setup the switch, etc.

The Door lining is in, Door is hung (still need to fit lock latch & handles), Skirting and Arcitrave is also fitted. These all now need painting but I think its starting to complete the room now:

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So next on the list is:
  • Fit Door lock/latch & Handle
  • Fit Door Stop
  • Paint Woodwork (Skirting, Architrave, Door, Door liner, etc)
  • Fit a Window Sill/Board (Any recommendations here? Was thinking wood, but could go PVC??)
  • Final bit of filling/sanding on walls + Final coat of paint
  • Find a Wi-Fi Panel heater (the ones I've looked at online have mixed/poor reviews) & Fit to backwall
  • Terminate CAT6 into patch panel + Fit switch, etc
  • Terminate CAT6 in ceiling to a plug ready for Wi-Fi AP
On the side I'll also start work on my desk. The Oat worktop has arrived for that (2000x720x27mm) so that needs oiling. Once done it can be fitted to my desk frame Flexispot E6).

Once everything inside the office is done and operational, I'll focus my attention on the Garage side which needs the other side of the wall plaster boarding and a bit of a tidy up.

Any feedback/advice welcome!
 
Soldato
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Castle Anthrax
Might be a bit late now, but assuming the wall sockets are MK logic plus I’d have used the matching euro module faceplates for your CAT6 ports just to keep it all looking nice

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/MKK0182.html

You might be able to just swap the faceplates over if your modules are a good colour match but to do it properly you’d probably need to swap the modules over as well now which may be too much effort!
 
Soldato
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2,864
Location
Lincoln, Uk
Might be a bit late now, but assuming the wall sockets are MK logic plus I’d have used the matching euro module faceplates for your CAT6 ports just to keep it all looking nice

I agree with keeping it matching, certainly the mixed sqaure corners and round corners is a little jarring! Though the mains accessories look to be Click Mode rather than MK, though click do a good range of data plates as well, so isn't a problem
 
Soldato
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Posts
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Might be a bit late now, but assuming the wall sockets are MK logic plus I’d have used the matching euro module faceplates for your CAT6 ports just to keep it all looking nice

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/MKK0182.html

You might be able to just swap the faceplates over if your modules are a good colour match but to do it properly you’d probably need to swap the modules over as well now which may be too much effort!

Yep, the LAN socket/face plates did annoy me once I fitted them. They look a bit naff next to the sockets. I think I'll look to replace them once the room is finished and I'm using it. I may ask the original supplier that supplied the sockets and the modules if they have any.

Thanks for the recommendation.
 
Soldato
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Posts
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I agree with keeping it matching, certainly the mixed sqaure corners and round corners is a little jarring! Though the mains accessories look to be Click Mode rather than MK, though click do a good range of data plates as well, so isn't a problem

Thanks. Yep as above I'll look to change them in the future once the room is complete. Thanks for the recommendation.
 
Soldato
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10,072
Location
West Sussex, England
The ethernet cabling would have been better if you could have routed it down the sides of the pattress boxes so the cables could be brought up into each.

The wires should be terminated as short as possible too without excess showing and the jacket cable tied to the fixing point.
 
Soldato
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Posts
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The ethernet cabling would have been better if you could have routed it down the sides of the pattress boxes so the cables could be brought up into each.

The wires should be terminated as short as possible too without excess showing and the jacket cable tied to the fixing point.

Yep, as above, this is the first time I have done this. Some mistakes have been made. I am going to finish terminating the cables and test it to see how it is. If there are any issues I will look to redo the wall terminations again.

Thanks for the feedback.
 
Soldato
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Posts
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UPDATE:

This week I have been focusing on finishing lots of jobs off. Finishing hanging the door and fitting the latch/lock and then painting. Lots of sanding and painting! I only really get a chance to do this late at night, and despite the weather I've gone out each evening and cracked on.

Masking the floor around the skirting was a real PITA! The skirting was too tight to the floor to get masking tape under it (lesson learn for if/when I do this sort of thing again) so I had to spend a fair bit of time getting the masking tape nice and tight to the skirting without overlapping it, or leaving a gap. The masking tape I was using was also quite old and didn't adhere very well. Anyway, eventually I did it, and then due to paranoia about the floor decided to make a floor covering with some of my left over vapour barrier:

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With everything covered over I decided to prime all of the wood work with its first coat of water based primer. This went on surprisingly well and was easy to work with. I did the Door frame, Door, Architrave and the Skirting.

After that I spent a couple of hours sanding/keying the walls, floor, and all wood work with a sanding pad. With everything sanded I then had a good hoover around the room including the ceiling and walls. I then wiped everything down with a damp cloth before water based priming everything again for its second coat.

I then had another cleanup before putting on the final coat of emulsion onto the ceiling and walls. With that drying I put the first coat of top coat onto all the wood work. I only gave the Skirting and arcitrave one coat of top coat, but the door frame and edge of doors got 2 coats. Despite getting out to the room at about 23:00 I stuck at it and finished it last night.

I was pleased with how it all looked, and managed to hone my cutting in skills to get some nice starlight(ish) lines:

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I left this to dry overnight, before this morning removing the floor covering/masking tape/etc. In the daylight the paint work looked good and dried back nicely:
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So the room itself is now pretty much done!

With cold weather coming in again next week, I'm now going to focus on getting the desk top oiled and the desk setup and ready for use. The Oak desk to has arrived, but needs at least 2 coats of Oil (got some Osmo Top oil) and needs sanding first and around 8 hours between coats! Do people recommend doing the oiling with a paint brush or some lint free rag? I've got both but seen conflicting opinions on it!

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Once the desk is setup and ready to use, I'll focus on the garage side which still needs the CAT6 terminating in the patch panel in the cabinet which I've put up on the wall ready. The Garage side of the wall also needs plaster boarding, painting, skirting, architrave, etc.
 
Soldato
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UPDATE:

With the room itself now complete, it was time to focus on the Desk and stuff for inside the room. I started off by oiling the 2000 x 720 x 27 Oak Worktop. It needed 3x coats of my chosen oil (Osmo Top Oil). Although the process is simple, waiting 8x hours for it to dry between flipping it/re-coating is painfully slow. I could basically do 1x coat in the morning, and then another in the evening.

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After doing 1x coat on the top side, I flipped it and did 3x coats on the underside and edges. I was then itching to assemble the desk and get it mounted to see what it would be like, and also oiling at an adjustable height is MUCH easier than crouching on the floor and doing it! So here is the desk assembled and the motors wired up, but with the top side needing a further 2x coats:

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It looked great, so I did the remaining 2x coats yesterday, and then this morning I quickly set the desk up so that I could use it for the day:

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So today has been rather good to be sat in a nice warm room, and not a damp cold garage!

Although I can now thankfully use the room, lots more still to do:

  • Mount Wifi Heater on the wall (I got a second hand 1000W ADAX Wi-Fi off of the auction site) - Can anyone recommend some decent plasterboard fixings? I've used some terrible ones in the past!
  • Finish terminating the CAT6 in the cabinet (currently using a Powerline Adapter which is fine for work)
  • Run direct burial CAT6 cable from house to Garage network cabinet
  • Install and setup POE Switch
  • Terminal CAT6 and plug into ceiling mounted AP
  • Potentially mount a TV above desk...
Then I need to focus on the garage side to get rid of the excess materials and get back some space for storage/workshop:
  • Plasterboard garage side wall
  • Fit Architrave to garage side wall
  • Maybe tape and join or just paint... Not sure yet
  • Re-instate some workbenches
  • Tidy and put up some shelves/racking for storage
Feel free to offer some feedback/suggestions. Thanks.
 
Soldato
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10,072
Location
West Sussex, England
You might find it more comfortable if you face the window to avoid reflections on the monitors.

Fixings:
If the heater is wider than the vertical stud uprights you could fix a piece of wood horizontally with it mounted to the vertical stud supports. Use a piece of wood large enough to accommodate the heater bracket height. If the bracket doesn't span the width of the vertical studs then you could fix the bracket on one side through the horizontal piece of wood and vertical stud.

Alternatively you could buy some cuttable raw plug type fixing lengths and attach to an outside wall as long as it's not over tightened to crush the plasterboard. Ideally at least one side of the bracket should be screwed through a vertical upright to avoid crushing the plasterboard.

If the heater isn't too heavy you could also use metal anchor fixings that grip the back of the plasterboard.

TV:
You'd be better off fixing that to the end wall so you can swivel to one side to watch it and not have to fit it so high up since it wouldn't be that far away from you.
 
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