Project: Garage Office/Workshop Thread

Soldato
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23 Nov 2004
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3,772
I'm gonna use this as a bit of a project thread. Mainly for me to keep a log of it, but thought a few on here would enjoy reading through it.
I have little DIY knowledge so all of this is a bit of a learning curve for me. I work full time and have hobbies/kids so finding time to do it is difficult!

The aim is to build a Office/Workshop room in the back half of my garage and insulate it. Working in a single skin block garage in the winter is ruddy cold, so I want to improve it and make it a much nicer place to be.

When lockdown hit, I had a perfectly useable spare room I could use. Within a couple of months that quickly changed as my oldest daughter needed her own room and the youngest was transitioning from Moses Basket in our room to the youngest's room. Annoyingly, there wasn't anywhere else in the house I could setup a workstation and not be bothered by noise or be in the way, etc. So my only option was to move into the garage.

Initially I just put everything on my workbench and stood at the desk. This was OK for a few days, but quickly got old uncomfortable when doing 8+ hour days at it:

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IMG_20200503_183429.jpg

As you can see, there is very little space and lots of stuff in there. So the next stage was to start sorting through everything, selling what I could and scrapping the rest to make room for a better setup. I then moved onto version 2, which was much more comfortable. I essentially made room for my desk and chair to go. I also spent £20 on some second hand carpet tiles so I didn't wreck my wheel chairs.

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There was still a lot of stuff in the garage. I'd sold all my car parts from the days I used to do motorsport and scrapped a lot of stuff. With still lots of stuff to store, and more stuff accumulating due to kids, I decided I needed a Shed.

Behind my garage was a Log store I'd built a few years ago. Whilst it was useful to have it there, once full it had enough wood in it for 4 years worth of burning, so I've moved to a smaller log store and sold this one:

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Once cleared I had a decent sized area to work with. I wanted an 8x8 Shed, but getting one during Lockdown was very difficult. All online retailers had huge waiting lists. I ended up calling the suppliers and finding out when shipments were due so I could F5 during that day to ensure I got anything I could. I ended up with a Keter 8x7 plastic Shed. To lay the shed on I bought a plastic interlocking shed base.

The area itself was chippings and soil and looked fairly level, however after setting out my base dimensions it was clear it was anything but!

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(Fence is rotten, I paint it every year but its my neighbors and they aren't keen to replace it!)

So as the area was hugely out of line, and I didn't want to raise the level against the fences or the garage wall, I decided to dig all the chippings out and see what I was left with

y4mgt6nBoCk5DG21XcBw0Z22EkwU7R8TSLrGpgDvWKDV0N8Wx1uhzVGBjjXVEWwEFpHx1mCu8diG3hdPVzFCmB7LyXY_uj4SZAQSxmdv3PYvQXh2-ncJgzl690Iox-cYxKsesTPPhh64lMOvKqk8Xlak7vnnwoyflBIyV2DdwofDsVsGbfr5z7GXBaSttWOH8IO


This bit of timber was sat level, so you can see the difference in level I had to work with.

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After much thought, I decided my only option was to essentially build an island out of the chipping I had removed, lay a strong weed membrane then put my shed base on that and infill as a slope to the fences and garage wall to ensure I didn't cause any damp/drainage issues, and it also meant the shed could sit on the base, level with the hard standing area I had:

This picture is poor and doesn't show the difference in level. The back half of the island was about a foot tall and it reduces to barely nothing towards the slabbed area

y4m0FodRwOYkHwdHxqa5dlKxEMfXJwOUfgqWpzepnIBWUAbG1ZKY8bvTzyvchQJIl61rOnMwwRqjzw149rADOloeU691kUAFFJA80aaMskyJTJNbRqObJKdwfrqg0SWuLvyY45XTepE_hzRBtt8t46RpKshxXzyw4pMPkjZtKjQegA8vOp0Zu-IN0UD7BvqmkNP


Weed membrane down and shed base laid:

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Finished off Weed membrane:
y4mAAvHQYUsxfEGSPg47m4FwCOceZQJGMyXkxom-C0cTmAqVv5JcorrxcJy0VKQCC3SG-96tVBuiUnz3dbSIo-QidaW0dpCTqYJ1Les1j6tIGA92Slxp10TXG-PmLntsVLvMgReGI2_rvo9nozDuOvJUOBKEkuFTzH_Noat0ilG_e2Dz2SfbAxQaHjjMAb-YGwo


I then ordered 1x bag/ton of chipping and filled up the Shed base and then infilled the edges to tidy it up

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Finished and ready for when the shed arrived. It arrived on a day when it was howling it with rain and wind, but as it was delivered in unwrapped cardboard I decided I'd get on with it. Not the easiest task on your own (especially the roof in the rain and wind) but I managed it. Here it is finished:

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I then put up some shelving to move everything I could left in the garage to the Shed:
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This now gave me half of the garage empty, enough space to build my box/room for my workshop/office:

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From the strut pilar to the back wall was 2.7M, and it's 2.7M wide. This is ample enough space for a small room and it meant I could keep the front half of the garage for storage, etc.

To be continued...
 
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Soldato
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With the garage now mostly empty, next on my list was to add more light. I did consider velux/tunnels but decided their cost/value wasn't worth it, and instead opted for a Window that would be big enough to let light in, but not too big so that it looked on in the garden where the ground is higher.

When I measured the Window size for ordering, I went for a size that meant I'd only be cutting a block every other row. The Window and glass took months to arrive, and when it did I had no time to fit it, so I got a builder to do it for a reasonable price (£250). Not the tidiest of jobs, but good enough!

Here's the wall before the Window was fitted. The wall is slightly stained due to a plant/bush being there before which I cut down to make space for the Window:

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During/Post Window fitting:
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I'll need to tidy up that rendering and re-paint the garage once the project is finished inside.
 
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Soldato
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With the Window now fitted and some space available, it was time to order some materials to start the room build. The plan is essentially build a Stud box/room inside the back half of the garage with a door in the middle of the Timber wall as you walk up to the room. The floor will be floating chipboard on top of the PIR Insulation, PIR Insulation in the walls, Rockwool in the ceiling. There is already power in the garage, but its a simple circuit so I'll be having a small consumer unit put in, and new rings run for sockets/lights. I'll be getting an electrician to do most of the electrical work.

Material prices are currently mental, but I want to crack on so after a few quotes from local merchants this little lot turned up:

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  • 38x63x2400mm CLS for the Stud walls
  • 60mm PIR for the Floors and Walls (Will probably use rockwool for ceiling insulation)
  • 22mm Chipboard for floating floor
  • Tapered Edge Plasterboard for the walls
As the Garage is a single Skin construction, from research I decided to lay a DPM on the floor and up the walls past the Damp course. I attached this to the walls with Gorilla Tape which has worked well in most places, but I could do with some suggestions how how to affix it better (not sure if it matters if it comes unstuck in the future??

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My brother is a carpenter and owes me a few favors so he came round with his Paslode gun and we made a start on the stud walls for a few hours. I've spaced the timbers 50mm off of the walls to make sure the timbers wont be getting damp/creating and cold-bridging.

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After Day 1:

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Day 2:
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This takes us up to the current stage.

I now need to order some more timbers for the roof as the span for the plasterboard is too long and some additional CLS for noggins.

Some questions:

  1. My walls will be infilled with PIR Insulation. My research says I should have a membrane on the WARM side of the room to prevent cold and hot air mixing and condensing... What sort of a membrane should this be? Can I just staple the same sort of membrane I used on the floor (Damp Proof Membrane 5m x 4m Blue (300mu) (toolstation.com)) or does it need to be something else?
  2. What lights would people recommend for this? I'll ask my electrician, but was considering downlights but know they can be expensive and cause hassle with insulation, etc....
  3. Heating - I would have liked to of got a Air Conditioning system fitted, but cost/space means this is a no go. Should I instead opt for a wall mounted electric heater? Any recommendations?

Comments/suggestions welcome!
 
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Associate
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looks great, very similar to what I had done in my basement.

How's the bottom plate attached to the floor without piercing the membrane out of interest?

1. The insulation you have in your pictures looks to be standard with foil on both sides so shouldn't matter which way you have it and shouldn't need an extra membrane, just friction fit and foil tape the joints

2. I used LED fire rated wide angle spots - these you can insulate over the top of without having to worry about going up in flames

3. simple oil filled rad?
 
Soldato
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Pictures are now showing :)

Well done, this looks like a good project - Give you your own man cave!

Thanks! Glad they are now showing. Had to use the Embed function for each picture in OneDrive unfortunately.

Great work!

Thanks!

looks great, very similar to what I had done in my basement.

How's the bottom plate attached to the floor without piercing the membrane out of interest?

1. The insulation you have in your pictures looks to be standard with foil on both sides so shouldn't matter which way you have it and shouldn't need an extra membrane, just friction fit and foil tape the joints

2. I used LED fire rated wide angle spots - these you can insulate over the top of without having to worry about going up in flames

3. simple oil filled rad?

I was keen to avoid attaching the bottom plate to the floor and pierce the DPM. Essentially its not fixed to the bottom, it is fixed to the joists in the roof and once all the uprights were in place it is now solid and I can't move it even if I really try and pull it. The initial plan was to fit the bottom plates to the floating chipboard flooring spaced off of the wall, but that wouldn't allow the chipboard to expand/contract. This seems to work well and I can't see it moving at all once the plasterboard is fitted, etc. I've gone for 400mm centred uprights to add extra strength and rigidity.

Thanks. Yea, I did read that there is a vapour barrier in the PIR, but had seem some posts on other forums recommended upping it. I haven't got any of the silver tape but will be sure to get some and spend time taping everything up before plaster boarding.

Will mention those lights to my electrician when I get him round and see what he says. The window lets in quite a lot of light, but will need more for winter, etc.

A good read and looking forward to more updates.

That's too much work for me, I would have worked from the car with a laptop :)

Yea, initially it was just going to be put up a stud wall and some rockwool and chipboard, but I decided I'd spend a bit more time/money and get it right first time.
 
Soldato
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Additional timber for the roof has arrived, the prices have gone up AGAIN! Timber prices are genuinely awful at the moment. Hopefully Saturday I can do the roof/ceiling timbers + missing noggins and then do the flooring. Then it will be cutting and pressure fitting the PIR insulation.
 
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How good are those plastic sheds? Thinking of getting one to house some electrics and and few bits and bobs.

How would you mount a fuse box to the wall of one of these? Or perhaps run a cable along the outside of it clipped under the eaves some how?

Would it be possible with a plastic shed?

Thanks
 
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How good are those plastic sheds? Thinking of getting one to house some electrics and and few bits and bobs.

How would you mount a fuse box to the wall of one of these? Or perhaps run a cable along the outside of it clipped under the eaves some how?

Would it be possible with a plastic shed?

Thanks

Some have 'eaves' but they aren't particularly big, usually used to screw the roof down more.

As for inside and mounting, official it would need to be a sturdy fixed surface I think? So you might want to talk to a sparky.

Unofficially I guess you could floor mount a box to the floor and to the wall somehow.
 
Soldato
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How good are those plastic sheds? Thinking of getting one to house some electrics and and few bits and bobs.

How would you mount a fuse box to the wall of one of these? Or perhaps run a cable along the outside of it clipped under the eaves some how?

Would it be possible with a plastic shed?

Thanks

Sorry for the delayed reply.

Honestly, they are fine. The Plastic one will last for a long time and wont need any treatment. They are easy/quick to put up. However... I wanted a wooden one but you couldn't get one anywhere for months. If I end up needing a shed again I'd go for wood if it's available because it is stronger and more secure. If you wanted to you could cut through the walls of the plastic sheds with a stanley knife. Luckily mine is just filled with junk no one would want to steal!

I can't see why you couldn't clip the cable and secure a consumer unit (fuse box) to it, but you would need to check the regs/with an electrician to be sure.
 
Soldato
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OK, so the new timber arrived and a couple of Saturdays ago I put up the additional roof timbers and finished off the missing noggins on the wall studs.

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After the timbers were finished I had a few minutes spare, so I started cutting up some of the PIR Insulation and pressure fitting it between the studs. I cut it 1-2mm too big so its a snug fit....

I borrowed my brothers Jigsaw and a breadknife type of blade to cut it which seemed to be fairly easy and created very little dust.

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Currently still trying to find time to continue with it, but it may have to wait for the weekend.

Questions still in my mind before I continue:
  1. How can I properly secure the DPM I've taped to the wall with Gorilla Tape? On some bits it has come away a bit... Do I just ignore it because it can't fall down or is there a proper method used to do this?
  2. Still unsure of what Vapor barrier I should buy the the walls... I read I need to prevent the hot air and cold air hitting each other and creating moisture/condensation... I know this needs to go on the warm side of the room top of the PIR before I PBoard...

Order of things to do still:
  1. Properly affix the DPM to the wall
  2. Finish doing PIR in between studs
  3. PIR on floor, then Chipboard on top (allow 10mm gap around the edge for shrinkage/expansion)
  4. Silver Tape all around the edge of each PIR Board
  5. Fit Vapor Barrier with staple gun
  6. Fit Counter battens (battens on top of CLS to crate a service void for cables, etc between PIR/Vapor barrier and plasterboard and allow things to be screwed to the wall without piercing PIR/etc)
  7. Get Electrician in for first fix/run cables/fit consumer unit/etc
  8. Loft Roll insulation in ceiling
  9. Plasterboard ceiling
  10. Plasterboard walls
  11. Electrician in for second fix
Anything I am overlooking or have forgotten?
 
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18 Oct 2002
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1,798
I have a project log on here for very similar conversion and I added another layer of 50mm PIR on top of the framing and then taped it all up. Building control wanted 100mm of PIR so I did it in 2 layers. Did ceiling with PIR too including a 2nd layer and taped it all go form a giant foil box which is continuous and forms the vapour barrier. I had to make a few holes in it in the end for electrical sockets etc but sealed as best I could with expanding foam and more tape.
 
Soldato
OP
Joined
23 Nov 2004
Posts
3,772
Right, time for a bit of an update. Project has been neglected a bit due to holiday/work/etc. But with the colder weather coming and not wanting to sit in a bare garage in winter again I have cracked on and done some more.

The PIR got done in stages whenever I had an hour or 2 spare. Annoyingly, every time I wanted to do some work on it I had to empty the area of slides/trampolines/bikes/etc which just wasted time before I could actually do anything. I continued to cut up the 60mm PIR and pressure fit in between the CLS studs.

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Once the walls were done, I repeated this on the ceiling with the same 60mm PIR
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I then laid the same 60mm PIR Insulation on the floor on top of the DPM and taped all the joints. We then laid the floating 28mm Chipboard flooring and glued it together with wood glue.

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Here you can see my current desk area, with the office space in the back half of the garage
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Once the glue had dried I then started taping all of the joints with foil tape:

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So this brings it to where it is right now.

You will see some odd gaps need the edge of the room on the ceiling, I can't get PIR in there so plan to put some rockwool or similar in there (Knauf Insulation Earthwool Dritherm Cavity Slab 32 Ultimate 100 x 455mm x 1.2m | Wickes.co.uk) Will I need to foil tape over the Rockwool?

Next stages:
  • Vapour Barrier - Although over the top as I've been foil taping, I've got a Vapour barrier on a roll, so will fit this next over the top to make ultra sure I wont get any damp/moisture issues. I'll affix this with a Wacker tacker or a staple gun.
  • Counter Battens - These will be nailed/screwed on top of the CLS to give me a service void for cables in between the plasterboard and the insulation.
  • Electrics - Been waiting a few weeks for an electrician to come over and assess/do first fix. He's busy so I'll wait a bit more before chasing
  • Plasterboard
  • Electrics - Second fix
  • Tape and join
  • Fit door lining and door
  • Skirting board/architrave/coving
I still need to fully think out how I want the room. Currently I'm thinking of having a electric desk on the left (opposite side to window). This will help me decide on socket positions.

Also need to consider:
  • Heating - Should I go for electric under floor or just a wall mounted panel heater? Either way I want it to be Wi-Fi connected so I can operate it remotely/set a schedule
  • Flooring - Should I go for wood or carpet?
  • Lighting - Considering downlights, or should I look at alternatives?
Any feedback/questions welcome!
 
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