Project: Measure twice cut once! (56k no!)

matt100 said:
oh I get you, you mean like a prop? I could try that but it's not sagging, its bending under pressure I think as per the diagram above..

I'll play tonight and see what I can do..

As an aside, do we think I could get this thing into the bios with no water etc? Just using the waterblock as a big passive heatsink for literally 30 seconds just to make sure it boots before I make the working space even more difficult?
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Yeah that should be fine. Your copper waterblock weighs 330g, so its heat capacity is ~120J/K. Assuming your proc disappates 80W, running for 30 seconds would heat it up by no more than 30s*(80W)/(120J/K) = 20°C. That's ignoring heat loss to surroundings too (blow into one pipe of the waterblock if you want to get some airflow going, hehe).

The pentium won't cook itself, it can throttle if things get too hot anyways.
 
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matt100 said:
oh I get you, you mean like a prop? I could try that but it's not sagging, its bending under pressure I think as per the diagram above..

I'll play tonight and see what I can do..

As an aside, do we think I could get this thing into the bios with no water etc? Just using the waterblock as a big passive heatsink for literally 30 seconds just to make sure it boots before I make the working space even more difficult?

EDIT: would you not think the waterblock should just screw straight down on the cpu? its obviously going in at an angle if its causing the mobo to bend which is a bit of a pain..

Also, the cpu won't be bending so perhaps its still making a decent connection with the block?
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yea its "sagging" from the weight of the cooler and the way the wb bends the board when the screws are tightened, ive seen it happen before with big heavy air coolers, but they at least have the standoffs closer, theres a big gap between yours.
 
I still find it hard to believe its sagging, I could understand it if was something like the leverage created with a star ice on a stood up mobo (eg in an atx case) but this is horizontal and whilst the waterblock is heavy it has a very low centre of gravity and no leverage..

I still think the tightening of the rods that hold it in place as created a pinching effect and bending the mobo??
 
matt100 said:
I still find it hard to believe its sagging, I could understand it if was something like the leverage created with a star ice on a stood up mobo (eg in an atx case) but this is horizontal and whilst the waterblock is heavy it has a very low centre of gravity and no leverage..

I still think the tightening of the rods that hold it in place as created a pinching effect and bending the mobo??
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yes its doing both, all u need to do is make a standoff for it to lean on at the top edge of the board, in the centre between the far placed standoffs that are there already :D
 
the plot thickens, I sussed the bending mobo, if you look at the photo you can see the waterblock flat on 3 capacitors (is that what they are?) that was what was causing it to bend because they are higher than the cpu and they were being pushed down :eek:

took the waterblock off and it was only touching the cpu by a tiny bit (shown by tiny smudge of as5!

reorientated it so the step out that is supposed to go over the cpu bracket lever (according to swiftech) is now over these bits and it looks fine..

Onwards tonight!
 
lol good job you didnt turn the pc on then without the block making any contact!!! Best of luck for tonights work and cant wait for the pics
 
We want updates!

I'm planning a similar project, only less ambitious in that I'll be cooling just a CPU, but I'll be doing it with the Shuttle Zen, which is smaller than normal shuttles... Gonna see if I can get it fanless (the PSU is a brick like a laptop PSU and the only fan is on the ICE so if I passively cool the CPU...)
 
lol.. ok ok!

I totally flaked out last night, fast asleep at 10pm! I must be working too hard.. right, now, serious time...

Just about to disconnect my current pc to bios test the new one.. its like going to the dark side of the moon, no comms for a bit!

With any luck I'll be running round the kitchen like some sort of demented chemist with a litre of bright green deionised water in an hour or so.. fingers crossed! See you on the other side...

EDIT: bugger me that was quick, straight into the bios no messing, got to do something aout the fan because it can't spin up against the fan guard built into the case.. other than that very good..

Waterblock got very hot, checked the cpu temp in bios.. 50-52-55-58-60 then I turned it off! lol, I guess seeing as the block got hot there must be a good connection?
 
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good news: its all in, pump working and looking good

bad news: bad leak at the rad :( and I really don't want to be dreaming up solutions at 1am!

anyway, new barb tomorrow along with wet matt :D

EDIT:Pics..

tubing3.jpg


tubing2.jpg


as you can see still major bend on the mobo, I'm waiting to test the temps live to see if this makes any difference, I've stuck a small torch behind the cpu and it appears to be making full contact and as I said before the brief boot into bios made the waterblock very hot.
 
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tubing1.jpg


and here it is bleeding, with me oblivious to the rad leak (because it leaked by the res where you can see the tissue, the res in my current machine leaked in exactly the same place so I was feeling all smug about noticing and dealing with it only to find my kitchen top swamped with hydrx and deionised water from the rad :(

bleed.jpg


never occured to me how hard it would be to bleed considering the layout of the tubing/pump and res.. it was a nightmare! I filled the res and turned the pump on and.... nothing! there was air in the tubes stopping the water getting to the pump and it went on from there!

ANYONE WITH ANY HELPFUL TIPS ON STRESS FREE BARB REPLACEMENT PLEASE POST ASAP!
 
Just a quick check.

You are using PTFE tape on all your barbs arent you??

its a little hard to tell because your using that blue tubing but i cant see any signs of PTFE tape around the barb between the tubing and the barb. If not, thats almost certainly your problem and imo you should drain the system and add PTFE, it also looks like you have overtightened the jubilee ( i think thats what they are called, the screw clampy thing) on the reservoir which can itself cause leaks. Unfortunatly my experience with those reservoirs are unimpressive, the barbs are crappy plastic ( do not exchange for metal as you risk damageing the reservoir) they also have a type of black 0 ring type thing which goes between *** barb and the reservior to seal it, i found this to be very difficult to make a decent seal with and left the barb open to being tightened/loosened by hand insure you PTFE the barb thread on the reservior as well, i infact would consider epoxying it in place or use a silicon sealent around the joint to avoid hasstles and future leaks. they also mean the watercooling has to stay in the case which for me is a big pain.

I use zip ties on all my watercooled systems, never had any trouble with leaks as long as you use plenty of PTFE tape.
 
yes I've got ptfe on the threads. The leak is actualy from the thread on the barb into the radiator... I investigated a bit more last night and the barb won't tighten, it gets so far and then goes slack again..

I left it overnight and the leak is minescule but I'm going to change the barb tonight and try again.
 
Sounds like its definatly the barb then, id advise changing to a brass barb i dont hold plastic barbs in high reguard. They sell them at most places that sell watercooling gear or at plumbers merchants.
 
I've got a bunch at home so I'll find something that'll fit.Got to be done tonight because the thing is currently stricken on the kitchen worktop so my missus ain't too happy :D
 
nearly there!

Pulled the barb off and stuck another on, I was tempted with a metal one I have here but I don't know what metal it is and I've gone to lengths not to mix metals so plastic it was.

Good god the water was flying everywhere! There wasn't enough tube to get the 2 ends to the highest parts of the loop so it was just flowing out of the rad... very traumatic but in the end the new one went on and all appears to be well again (touch wood) it's had the pump on bleeding for about an hour and no sign of any leaks..

The mess!

aftermath.jpg


But like I said, it's nearly there! Just realised I need to cut away some of the shell :rolleyes: that dremel is earning its keep here.. also need to cut away a bit more of the backplate because the hoseclip is in the way...

Then I get the case on the only thing left is installing some lighting.. I fancy getting some 4" uv cathodes installed actually on the shell (in the bends where it's metal so you can't see them) just got to figure some way of wiring them up without having wires trailing everywhere when the case is shut.

Lookee though, I'm getting excited!

almostdone.jpg
 
Bone dry all night yeah!!!

Got to get to the shed to cut it, might not be feasible tonight.. especially if its raining (it's 150ft long, a total mess, on a hill with no lights=deathtrap) but I will! soon!
 
argh ffs!

right, all wired up, turned it on, POSTed fine, went into bios.. temps holding at 32-35 very good..

The I went into the kitchen (to get a beer anticipating a prolonged wxp64 install) came back not 30 seconds later to find it rebooting.. permanently.

Sounds like the power is cutting out, the fan dims and then it all comes back on again, sometimes gets through the POST beep, sometimes doesn't..

Any ideas???? Not experienced this one before, so far I've..

Disconnected the reset switch, connected/disconected a fan into the cpu header, touched the backside (oo-er) of both the gpu and cpu to make sure they were overheating with no contact to the wblock and both are icy cold..

Any ideas???
 
what you mean the cmos?

can't see how that would help but I guess its one to cross off the list.. Disconnected it all again because I wanted to post this..

Bought a kvm off the bay the other day but the helpful seller forgot to remind me I'd need cables... :rolleyes:
 
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