Project; Turbo GSXR Slingshot
- Thread starter Danm54
- Start date
**WARNING**
THE VIDEO IS DAMN LOUD!!!
Hahaha! Jesus Christ man, that almost deafened me!
Good work!!
Oh yea, forgot to mention that...
Ive got some RAM air filter sheet on the way, 15mm think with a stainless mesh behind it. Will make up a temp filter to see how well it works and see if it gets in the way. Its easily accessible so not hard to keep clean.
Few pics to catch up on, my trigger wheel being made
This shows the run if the oil lines to the cooler, they've gone in really well and very discrete
Also cut some vents in the undertray for the cooler fans, got one at the bottom drawing air in and the other 2 blowing/sucking through the cooler.
Need a lot of tidying up but I'll see if it flows enough air to keep it cool first.
Also set the height and made up some dog bones, also still to be finished off as long as they're the right length.
The bike sits about an inch higher than my other gsxr but I think it looks right.
Got the chain and sprockets here too, the chain caught on the top of the swinger so a massive thanks to WSR for fitting it in to take a little out of it. Pics will follow soon.
Few pics to catch up on, my trigger wheel being made
This shows the run if the oil lines to the cooler, they've gone in really well and very discrete
Also cut some vents in the undertray for the cooler fans, got one at the bottom drawing air in and the other 2 blowing/sucking through the cooler.
Need a lot of tidying up but I'll see if it flows enough air to keep it cool first.
Also set the height and made up some dog bones, also still to be finished off as long as they're the right length.
The bike sits about an inch higher than my other gsxr but I think it looks right.
Got the chain and sprockets here too, the chain caught on the top of the swinger so a massive thanks to WSR for fitting it in to take a little out of it. Pics will follow soon.
Well its been an eventful few weeks to say the least!
The bike got a little ride down the road but it was very lumpy and didn't want to rev at all. As well as that, it was really difficult to start and eventually didn't start at all as it was losing rpm signal when cranking.
Initially I found a loose ground and found that it didn't really like the 36-1 trigger wheel. With the ground sorted and the 36-1 wheel reduced to a 12-1 wheel it still lost rpm signal when cranking. The wheel would work fine from a drill at all speeds but never on the engine.
I've resorted to buying an oscilloscope (learning how to use it) and recorded the trace of the wheel/VR sensor and found that after looking for interference problems from the starter and/or wiring it isn't anything like that at all!
This is the trace.
Now I have to thank Chris from Trigger Wheels for his help and advice so far, I was lost ages ago!
The trace shows the signal is being affected by the engine speeding and slowing during cranking, (as mattturbocar said in my oss thread) apparently the ECU could have problems picking this up cleanly as there is such a difference in the peak heights and it could well group all the high peaks together and the low peaks together. That would explain why I didn't have any issues picking up and rpm signal with no plugs in!
So a 24-1 wheel will be made and this should hopefully sort my problem out.
Fingers crossed!
The bike got a little ride down the road but it was very lumpy and didn't want to rev at all. As well as that, it was really difficult to start and eventually didn't start at all as it was losing rpm signal when cranking.
Initially I found a loose ground and found that it didn't really like the 36-1 trigger wheel. With the ground sorted and the 36-1 wheel reduced to a 12-1 wheel it still lost rpm signal when cranking. The wheel would work fine from a drill at all speeds but never on the engine.
I've resorted to buying an oscilloscope (learning how to use it) and recorded the trace of the wheel/VR sensor and found that after looking for interference problems from the starter and/or wiring it isn't anything like that at all!
This is the trace.
Now I have to thank Chris from Trigger Wheels for his help and advice so far, I was lost ages ago!
The trace shows the signal is being affected by the engine speeding and slowing during cranking, (as mattturbocar said in my oss thread) apparently the ECU could have problems picking this up cleanly as there is such a difference in the peak heights and it could well group all the high peaks together and the low peaks together. That would explain why I didn't have any issues picking up and rpm signal with no plugs in!
So a 24-1 wheel will be made and this should hopefully sort my problem out.
Fingers crossed!
Well its been a rocky month with the bike, had various ECU issues which all turned out to be corrupt or the wrong firmware had been loaded before it was sent out to me.
So with that finally fixed the bike ran much nicer, I had a good lambda reading and the auto tune function was working nicely.
Then it suddenly started to make a very horrible rattle!
Killed it straight away and set about investigating the cause. Took the tank off and the plugs out, all good and straight, took the cam cover off and the valve caps had all returned and looked ok. Spun it over and could hear a faint knock but hard to locate it but it sounded more bottom end now so the engine came out!
Took the clutch out and some of the fibres have fallen off which isn't great but I didn't think too much of it, turned the engine over and removed the bottom case, all crank bearings look good, a little worn but nothing major. Big end caps came off next and all of those were good too.
Starting to wonder if I'd dreamt it now!
Turned the motor back over and pulled the cams out, first valve cap to came off had a loose shim and a collet wedged sideways where the shim should be!
Head came off to reveal valve and piston love making had taken place!
Now I knew this engine had dropped a valve before and it was purely to see if my set up worked so its no massive loss but it is a bit disappointing as it was so nearly road worthy.
After much discussion I think the original reason for it dropping the first valve was the clutch fibres in the oil, that crap is everywhere in the engine. Then the valve has been sorted but not the clutch, the valve cap is a little loose in the bore so I'm guessing its the same valve gone again.
Scrap head, scrap pistons and scrap barrels.
What can you do, sometimes you don't get lucky
So with that finally fixed the bike ran much nicer, I had a good lambda reading and the auto tune function was working nicely.
Then it suddenly started to make a very horrible rattle!
Killed it straight away and set about investigating the cause. Took the tank off and the plugs out, all good and straight, took the cam cover off and the valve caps had all returned and looked ok. Spun it over and could hear a faint knock but hard to locate it but it sounded more bottom end now so the engine came out!
Took the clutch out and some of the fibres have fallen off which isn't great but I didn't think too much of it, turned the engine over and removed the bottom case, all crank bearings look good, a little worn but nothing major. Big end caps came off next and all of those were good too.
Starting to wonder if I'd dreamt it now!
Turned the motor back over and pulled the cams out, first valve cap to came off had a loose shim and a collet wedged sideways where the shim should be!
Head came off to reveal valve and piston love making had taken place!
Now I knew this engine had dropped a valve before and it was purely to see if my set up worked so its no massive loss but it is a bit disappointing as it was so nearly road worthy.
After much discussion I think the original reason for it dropping the first valve was the clutch fibres in the oil, that crap is everywhere in the engine. Then the valve has been sorted but not the clutch, the valve cap is a little loose in the bore so I'm guessing its the same valve gone again.
Scrap head, scrap pistons and scrap barrels.
What can you do, sometimes you don't get lucky
Not sure yet, if I source another complete engine its £100 in gaskets to fit the spacer plate under the barrels. So easily looking at £400-£500 for that option.
Next option is to build the engine that I want, balanced crank, rods and pistons, new shells and bearings throughout, got a nice gearbox to go in, carrillo con rods, oversized low comp pistons for some good boost etc etc.
The £400-£500 would go nicely towards the engine rebuild and its not like there's a lot of summer left to ride it anyway.
Tough one.
Next option is to build the engine that I want, balanced crank, rods and pistons, new shells and bearings throughout, got a nice gearbox to go in, carrillo con rods, oversized low comp pistons for some good boost etc etc.
The £400-£500 would go nicely towards the engine rebuild and its not like there's a lot of summer left to ride it anyway.
Tough one.
Seems unlikely to be caused by clutch fibres to be honest. If the engine has dropped a valve before it's more likely that that valve was walking wounded from previous contact. Alternatively, if you have had the head skimmed have you checked valve/piston clearance?
Regarding the crank sensor, a VR sensors output is proportional to speed that the tooth passes it Having more or less teeth on the same diameter trigger wheel won't fix this, but making the trigger wheel bigger will.
That said it's also important that the sensor being used is suitable for the size of the teeth on the wheel. If the sensor is designed for a larger trigger wheel (e.g. a sensor from a car) then output will be lower with a smaller teeth, as the magnetic end of the sensor can bridge the gap between the teeth. In this case either fewer teeth, or a sensor with a smaller pole size will help.
Regarding the crank sensor, a VR sensors output is proportional to speed that the tooth passes it Having more or less teeth on the same diameter trigger wheel won't fix this, but making the trigger wheel bigger will.
That said it's also important that the sensor being used is suitable for the size of the teeth on the wheel. If the sensor is designed for a larger trigger wheel (e.g. a sensor from a car) then output will be lower with a smaller teeth, as the magnetic end of the sensor can bridge the gap between the teeth. In this case either fewer teeth, or a sensor with a smaller pole size will help.
This valve I think is the same one that went before, so a damaged guide or worn cap is a likely cause. Only needs to stick slightly or return a little slow and its in the way of a piston.
Think the first time it dropped a valve could be put down to the clutch fibres, only needs a bit to get by the valve caps to make it stick or wear the cap, its like grinding paste.
Just turned down an engine, will have a sort out and sort a few things out then start going through my engine bits a pick the best of everything, then start spending money again!
Ooo, this came the other week
Sadly arrived with a little dink on the edge of the cover so it went back for a little touch up on the mill. Got a lock-up clutch being made too.
Think the first time it dropped a valve could be put down to the clutch fibres, only needs a bit to get by the valve caps to make it stick or wear the cap, its like grinding paste.
Just turned down an engine, will have a sort out and sort a few things out then start going through my engine bits a pick the best of everything, then start spending money again!
Ooo, this came the other week
Sadly arrived with a little dink on the edge of the cover so it went back for a little touch up on the mill. Got a lock-up clutch being made too.
Ooo big update here!
Firstly, I have a new set of pistons here ready for the new motor, forged and slightly lower compression but with a spacer plate it'll put it at about 8.5:1
Comparison with the standard piston
A set of KPMI valves, standard size.
And as I got bored and seen these on another bike, I went and bought some new wheels!
Seen these ages ago and liked the look but never really hit the buy button until the other week.
All from a 2009 Buell 1125r
Been having a mock up tonight and thankfully, my spindles are smaller than the Buells!
The front will go in with some different bearings, a few spacers and some clever cnc bracket for the caliper I'd imagine.
The rear needs a little more, can't get bearings to suit the wheel and spindle so some top hat spacers to centre the wheel up and fit the bearings, not sure on brake caliper mounting yet and I need to come up with a way to cush, and inset the rear sprocket. Think I've got it but we'll see how it pans out.
Firstly, I have a new set of pistons here ready for the new motor, forged and slightly lower compression but with a spacer plate it'll put it at about 8.5:1
Comparison with the standard piston
A set of KPMI valves, standard size.
And as I got bored and seen these on another bike, I went and bought some new wheels!
Seen these ages ago and liked the look but never really hit the buy button until the other week.
All from a 2009 Buell 1125r
Been having a mock up tonight and thankfully, my spindles are smaller than the Buells!
The front will go in with some different bearings, a few spacers and some clever cnc bracket for the caliper I'd imagine.
The rear needs a little more, can't get bearings to suit the wheel and spindle so some top hat spacers to centre the wheel up and fit the bearings, not sure on brake caliper mounting yet and I need to come up with a way to cush, and inset the rear sprocket. Think I've got it but we'll see how it pans out.
Soldato
- Joined
- 11 May 2007
- Posts
- 9,094
- Location
- Surrey
You should do a running total cost every time you update. Any idea what you've spent so far?
Nice stuff, very envious!
Any idea what you've spent so far?Nice stuff, very envious!
You should do a running total cost every time you update.
Nice stuff, very envious!
No idea what it's cost so far. I did start keeping receipts but I only have a few for the bigger bits.
Could easily make £5k I think without things like the stainless bolts, clips, all the smaller orders for wiring parts etc. Plus all the things that I've ordered that haven't quite fitted as planned and all the bits I've changed as the build has progressed.
Thing is, the more I do and learn, the better the build looks and then the first bits I've done don't look so good anymore!
These wheels are the final big items I'll be swapping I think, I'm happy with the rest of it. Just bodywork that I still haven't decided what to do with yet!
The master cylinders have changed too actually, got a K7 radial brake master and need to find a matching clutch sometime.
Does anyone know where I can find the Buell disc mounts? Found them in Europe but at a cost of 125 Euro!
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One fork will see more bending stress than the other under braking, but I very much doubt it's been engineered so that one fork is actually stiffer than the other. Plenty of bikes in the past had only one disc brake and the forks were always exactly the same diameter.