Racing Simulators

SKILL said:
The CST's are, or have the option of, Load Cells for the brakes don't they?

Taking that into account does a real hydraulic system really add much more, and surely it would be un-servo'd whilst most race cars will be servo based which is going to affect the feel? Who knows, it's unlikely I'll bother upgrading my G25 pedals for a good while yet :p

I'll admit I've not read much about the Frex pedals (read a bit about the wheel, do want), one downside with the Frex stuff does seem to be the support, seemingly down to the language barrier more than anything, at least the american option speaks something vaquely similar to english :).
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It's difficult to explain. At least, what I mean is I'm having difficulty. :)

With spring loaded pedals, all you have as resistance is the spring. Your brakes are still operated from 0-100% of motion. This means on spring loaded, if you are not on the pedal it is 0%, fully depressed is at 100%. It may be "tougher" to press it, but you still have to press it all the way to reach 100% braking.

On hydraulic pedals, you can increase the resistance of the fluid, so you actually change the axis range of the pedal - meaning I could (if I were inclined to do so) make it 100% braking at only 1% pedal motion.
 
Dj_Jestar said:
On hydraulic pedals, you can increase the resistance of the fluid, so you actually change the axis range of the pedal - meaning I could (if I were inclined to do so) make it 100% braking at only 1% pedal motion.
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Doesn't in-game calibration allow you to do that with spring loaded pedals? My G25 Pedals can be set to 100% braking with only 50% pedal motion. My clutch pedal is already set to 100% with only 5% pedal travel.

I know actual resistance can be adjusted for extra realism or preference.
 
unKn0wn said:
Doesn't in-game calibration allow you to do that with spring loaded pedals? My G25 Pedals can be set to 100% braking with only 50% pedal motion. My clutch pedal is already set to 100% with only 5% pedal travel.

I know actual resistance can be adjusted for extra realism or preference.
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In-game calibration or DXTweak.

DXTweak was the easiest way to fix some pedal issues on the Momo/DFP, where you did not get 100% throttle at full pedal travel.
 
unKn0wn said:
Doesn't in-game calibration allow you to do that with spring loaded pedals? My G25 Pedals can be set to 100% braking with only 50% pedal motion. My clutch pedal is already set to 100% with only 5% pedal travel.

I know actual resistance can be adjusted for extra realism or preference.
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But you don't get the feeling that it has been done. :) On screen/in-game it will show it but you won't feel it with your foot :)
 
Dj_Jestar said:
It's difficult to explain. At least, what I mean is I'm having difficulty. :)

With spring loaded pedals, all you have as resistance is the spring. Your brakes are still operated from 0-100% of motion. This means on spring loaded, if you are not on the pedal it is 0%, fully depressed is at 100%. It may be "tougher" to press it, but you still have to press it all the way to reach 100% braking.

On hydraulic pedals, you can increase the resistance of the fluid, so you actually change the axis range of the pedal - meaning I could (if I were inclined to do so) make it 100% braking at only 1% pedal motion.
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Indeed, but load cells give the same effect, eg they're a pressure sensor rather than a movement sensor,

Not sure if the CST's come with a load cell as stock nowadays but it's definitely an option, and you'd be mad not to go for it...

Whether they're quite 'as good' as a hydraulic I have no idea, but the premise is the same.
 
Dj_Jestar said:
But you don't get the feeling that it has been done. :) On screen/in-game it will show it but you won't feel it with your foot :)
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Got ya.
So what he meant was Calibrating the pedals to 100% with only 10% movement means the pedal wont actually travel any further than 10%. You actually change the physical ROM %? Not the software ROM %?

Correct???
 
Yes. :)

The physical ROM of the pedal will change, but in-game it will still report full motion.

The simplest way to explain this is in my car, the brake pedal only moves a few inches when I press it, but in my girlfriends car it moves a whole lot more and is softer. The ROM in my car is about 2 inches at most, but in her car about 7-8inches (and feels like she has sponges for brakes :o)

The hydraulic pedals can be calibrated to feel like either, or anywhere in between (or probably worse than both!)

And for £1,100 I'd want hydraulic over load cell :p
 
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Surely for normal spring loaded pedals you want as much movement as possible to aid with precision? I've tried changing the braking curve to something other then linear but it just seems to make it harder to brake without locking them up. Am i missing something?
 
SKILL said:
Not for long, my motorbike racing costs a minimum of £500 per round really and that doesn't include either the bike/van itself or any damage I may/will do to it...
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I only recently instructed a new race driver who spent £3k on his car and could do 3-4 races with the remaining 1k. :)

That said most national series I would budget 1k a race.
 
Dj_Jestar said:
Yes. :)

The physical ROM of the pedal will change, but in-game it will still report full motion.

The simplest way to explain this is in my car, the brake pedal only moves a few inches when I press it, but in my girlfriends car it moves a whole lot more and is softer. The ROM in my car is about 2 inches at most, but in her car about 7-8inches (and feels like she has sponges for brakes :o)

The hydraulic pedals can be calibrated to feel like either, or anywhere in between (or probably worse than both!)

And for £1,100 I'd want hydraulic over load cell :p
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The CST's aren't £1100 though :p

As I said, really not sure whether Hydraulics offer a massive improvement over load cell (I guess tweaking the feel like you say), I certainly haven't read anything with people raving about it...

Bleek said:
I only recently instructed a new race driver who spent £3k on his car and could do 3-4 races with the remaining 1k. :)

That said most national series I would budget 1k a race.
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I guess, I was thinking more in terms of £4k may get you half a season of racing, but the wheel would last several races a week for several years,

Still a silly amount of money to spend on a wheel though, I can see the point in spending some money on better pedals (although even then £1100 might be too much :p) but not sure the wheel would give much other than stronger/better ffb which is a nice to have and nothing more, imo.
 
Just spent an hour and a half in a class B race of Daytona only to get wrecked on lap 59/60 on turn 4 while in 6th place.... :(

Oh well, was fun anyway! Can't wait for the full release of the new tyre model. It's going to be awesome :)
 
Did you make sure to get a knife sharp enough to cut them? I have a image of you getting home, getting ya balls out then screaming as you realise you cant do anything with them.
 
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