RC cars

Typical nitro propaganda drivel :D

:p

Horses for courses! I ended up running BL for the convenience and speed, but I preferred the handling of nitro - just didn't like all the extra hassle :(

There is just something with the way the rotating mass of a cylinder engine makes a car drive. Can't even explain it other than to say nitro just felt right, whereas BL felt a bit akward.

But meh, what do I know. I'm just a nitro Nazi :D
 
castle creations mamba max pro and it go's as far as giving you a throttle curve graph you can shape, so you can have complete control over how power is delivered.
Yea castle motors are epic but expensive.
I had one of these back when I used to do RC
NYmsR38.jpg
insane torque on that for a high speed motor and would hit full speed in about a second if you could keep the power planted lol
There is just something with the way the rotating mass of a cylinder engine makes a car drive. Can't even explain it other than to say nitro just felt right, whereas BL felt a bit akward.
It's the weight the power to weight ratio of brush less is insane you could just add a kg or two and have a nitro handling car :P


I seriously keep considering buying another RC but I don't no anyone else who does it anymore so meh
 
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Yea castle motors are epic but expensive.
I had one of these back when I used to do RC
NYmsR38.jpg
insane torque on that for a high speed motor and would hit full speed in about a second if you could keep the power planted lol

It's the weight the power to weight ratio of brush less is insane you could just add a kg or two and have a nitro handling car :P


I seriously keep considering buying another RC but I don't no anyone else who does it anymore so meh

I mostly used MMM's in my cars (all 1:8 scale). Cracking pieces of kit but silly money for genuine UK versions.

I also used a hobbyking/EZrun ESC too, 150A. Pretty good for the money.

To be fair, you can program the throttle on most modern ESC's. When I first got a MMM my ST Pro was mental. I dialled it down some to make it less punchy but I could never really get on with the feel of the drive. For instance, feathering the throttle on banked corners never seemed to work properly on my BL cars. I think I posted a couple of pics of my most recent cars early on in this thread somewhere.

Although, I do concede I was only just starting getting into my BL cars when I sold up and had a lot to learn and much tweaking to be done. But even if a BL could match the drive of a nitro, it won't ever have the noise or smell :)
 
Odd that this thread would pop up now, was looking earlier at rc cars earlier for some reason, maybe it's a sign :D :p

Thinking of a 1/8th Nitro Buggy, something like the HoBao Hyper 7 (TQ2 Mach 28 edition looks shiny?), they seem to get decent reviews etc, anybody here have one?

I know brushless > nitro and all that, but this is just for fun and I prefer the noise/smell of nitro, so that works for me :)
 
Odd that this thread would pop up now, was looking earlier at rc cars earlier for some reason, maybe it's a sign :D :p

Thinking of a 1/8th Nitro Buggy, something like the HoBao Hyper 7 (TQ2 Mach 28 edition looks shiny?), they seem to get decent reviews etc, anybody here have one?

I know brushless > nitro and all that, but this is just for fun and I prefer the noise/smell of nitro, so that works for me :)

Be wary of the machstar .28 engines. They can be a bugger to run in and tune!

What do you want to do with the car? Where will you run it? .28 is an overall bashing type of engine. But to be fair I always ran .21's even in my bashers simply because they tend to have higher top ends. .28's have a bit more low down grunt but I can't say I ever struggled using .21's.

The best nitro buggy I ever had was a Losi 8ight 2.0 with an STS .21 in it. Fired up first time and ran sweet till it had no juice left. It also used to fly like a bird on the jumps! Such an awesome handling car :)

Hyper 7 cars are a good enough place to start with but I would always recommend a good Truggy. They are do-it-all cars and a lot easier to drive for a beginner. They can also handle rougher terrain.

A Hyper ST is a good choice (in Pro flavour if you can get it). Likewise the equivalent Hong Nor is a cracking car, and the Losi 8ight T 2.0 is a tougher car than many give it credit for.

I would consider a 2nd hand car as you often get more bang for your buck. If you are really interested in RC cars pop over to MSUK forum or Maxbashing. Plenty of help and advice over there, plus a decent second hand market from registered users. I have bought and sold loads over the years from those two forums :)
 
Cheers for the response.

That's good to know about the machstar, did watch a few videos where it didn't seem to pose any issues but might be better to stick to .21's.

Not sure where I'll run it yet, but it'll just be bashing, need to find/think of somewhere nearby where I can do it without being a nuisance...

I do have some experience, many years ago had some various rc cars, mostly tamiya (on-road + 1 electric buggy) and a Traxxas Nitro 4-Tec. So not a complete n00b, but still am mostly and been out of it a fair while so lots to learn :)

I know it's probably not the most sensible but I prefer the looks of the buggies over the truggies :p

Second hand is a good shout, and the forums, I'll head over now and do some reading.
 
Had the original Wild Willy as a kid, man that was a tough car, survived a few dips in the pond, going crazy and straight across a busy road, smashing into walls, so good at the time. :D

P1050055.jpg
 
tbh it's more likely
2 stroke > brushless > nitro > brushed

Brushless speed doe

I don't get the obsession with speed. Above a certain speed it doesn't add any enjoyment and it's just a novelty. Give me a properly geared car with lots of low end but controllabe grunt any day of the week.
 
With brushless a decent speed controller will allow some tuning of how the power is delivered, they can be made very smooth, or punchy depending on what you want. I have a castle creations mamba max pro and it go's as far as giving you a throttle curve graph you can shape, so you can have complete control over how power is delivered.

I gave my tamiya m-05 a little love during the holidays. A new shell and some aluminium hop ups to tighten up the steering. This car is great fun, its a different feel to my other cars given its fwd, its quick even on the stock motor and the battery lasts for ages, great fun for thrashing about the driveway on a quiet afternoon!.


http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g20/zuban88/vlcsnap-2015-01-05-13h23m04s114_zpsbc7c7446.png
http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g20/zuban88/vlcsnap-2015-01-05-13h23m04s114_zpsbc7c7446.png

That's much quicker than my M-05. Is it on a stock motor & ESC with a lipo?
 
Hi, its the stock esc, half charged nimh, but the motor is a Tamiya torque tuned, so its a little better than the stock silvercan although that one is pretty well run in, and I have used bearings instead of the kit bushes from when I built it. I was quite surprised by how quick it was on the silvercan though. I'm waiting on a roundcase lipo coming any day now so I can try it on lipo.
 
Cheers for the response.

That's good to know about the machstar, did watch a few videos where it didn't seem to pose any issues but might be better to stick to .21's.

Not sure where I'll run it yet, but it'll just be bashing, need to find/think of somewhere nearby where I can do it without being a nuisance...

I do have some experience, many years ago had some various rc cars, mostly tamiya (on-road + 1 electric buggy) and a Traxxas Nitro 4-Tec. So not a complete n00b, but still am mostly and been out of it a fair while so lots to learn :)

I know it's probably not the most sensible but I prefer the looks of the buggies over the truggies :p

Second hand is a good shout, and the forums, I'll head over now and do some reading.

I think it is a bit hit and miss with the machstar units. I have had 3 in total. One failed completely shortly after run-in, one was a nightmare and wouldn't hold a tune and the other was a cracking engine with no problems at all.

I know others with similar experiences, but if you get a good one the machstar .28 can be a cracking engine.

I would also personally think about second hand because often you get better engines and bump starts rather than the pull start engines you get in most RTR nitros. Pull starts almost always fail. I much prefer bump starts or roto-starts. The trouble with bump starting is the cost and size of starter boxes though.

MSUK is an all round site and their 2nd hand forum is generally bashers and a mixed bag of cars and other RC's.

Maxbashing has the higher quality kits as it is mostly used by the RC racing community so a lot of their 2nd hand forum is ex race cars. But you can often pick up a cracking RTR car from there with spares and so on as many racers change car each season and sell their last one on the forum :)
 
MSUK is an all round site and their 2nd hand forum is generally bashers and a mixed bag of cars and other RC's.
msuk is cool I sold my traxxas slash with castle motor upgrade on there for a really good price just to get rid quick.

No doubt other people do the same too if you "luck out" for them you'll find some bargains
 
Forgot I had this stashed away in the garage. needs about £100 worth of parts to run - might start building it up.

IMAG10061_zpsffc18c87.jpg
 
Forgot I had this stashed away in the garage. needs about £100 worth of parts to run - might start building it up.

IMAG10061_zpsffc18c87.jpg

That shell looks great when finished!. I couldn't leave something like that hidden in the garage, i'd have to build it!

You most likely know this already so its more for anyone else who might not, but Tamiya basic kits usually come with plastic or brass bushings instead of bearings, upgrading to bearings from the start is a must if you can, the bushings slow the cars down, and reduce your run times, and it only gets worse with time.

I recently refurbished a TA-03F, and when I got it, the drivetrain was working like a brake, the esc overheated in 30 seconds, I never got to the end of a battery with it, it overheated so much. A quick clean, and rebuild with bearings, and its the total opposite, rolls smoothly and no overheating. The bushes I took out were so filthy and out of shape I couldn't believe the previous owner used it like that, but maybe that's why they sold it.
 
That shell looks great when finished!. I couldn't leave something like that hidden in the garage, i'd have to build it!

You most likely know this already so its more for anyone else who might not, but Tamiya basic kits usually come with plastic or brass bushings instead of bearings, upgrading to bearings from the start is a must if you can, the bushings slow the cars down, and reduce your run times, and it only gets worse with time.

I recently refurbished a TA-03F, and when I got it, the drivetrain was working like a brake, the esc overheated in 30 seconds, I never got to the end of a battery with it, it overheated so much. A quick clean, and rebuild with bearings, and its the total opposite, rolls smoothly and no overheating. The bushes I took out were so filthy and out of shape I couldn't believe the previous owner used it like that, but maybe that's why they sold it.

Already has bearings - bought it from a guy at work as an unfinished project about 3 years ago - already has some other upgrades (alloy bits as per photo etc) :-)
 
I don't get the obsession with speed. Above a certain speed it doesn't add any enjoyment and it's just a novelty. Give me a properly geared car with lots of low end but controllabe grunt any day of the week.
its the same with any hobby, some people get more enjoyment out of pushing their hardware more than using it for its intended purpose.
 
So last night I decided to dig through a pile of stuff in the garage that I thought/know included some of my old cars, with some success :p

First up is a Tamiya TL-01 Skyline, very tatty as it was bought second hand and then abused by me but still looks to be ok and includes several of the hop-up options, that's complete with rx, esc, servo, motor, battery etc, but obviously being an ancient Nicad battery it's going to be dead by now (several years untouched).

So I need a new battery or three, and I also haven't found any Tx yet which is annoying. I do have a Nicad/Nimh capable charger as well.

I've also found an old nitro car I bought but never tried to get running, it was bought as a 1/10th touring car of unknown make, but I found some old Tamiya buggy suspension bolted straight on, also got the original suspension. That needs an rx (including battery) and some servo heads/connectors sorting out, and no idea if the engine runs but it does turn over smoothly.

So yeah, before splashing out on a 1/8th buggy/truggy I might as well just get those running and see if/how much I use them.

With the radio situation, I've had a look for 27MHz Tx's and they don't seem that common anymore, is it worth trying to find one hopefully cheaply or go for something like the Hobbyking TS3t as a full 2.4GHz set?

Also was thinking a Nimh battery for the TL-01, could go lipo but it seems to add more cost and/or complication to the ESC/setup (need a voltage warning/cut-off, although the TS3t would add that)
 
its the same with any hobby, some people get more enjoyment out of pushing their hardware more than using it for its intended purpose.

yeah thats it, i quite enjoyed getting my buggy's to cope with a powerfull brushless motor, I enjoy the process of testing, researching and inevitably breaking things along the way and replacing them with shiny hop up parts. And once the drivetrain can cope, getting the handling up to scratch is another challenge. Hitting a kerb at 50mph is just an excuse to get more shiny bits lol.

Also appreciate just having some cars that are a good balance for when you just want to drive it, so keep some that way. Its the different aspects of the hobby that keep it interesting.
 
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