Road Cycling Essentials

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One More Solo said:
Not sure if anyone saw this, but Belgian cyclist Wouter Weylandt was killed by a fall during a descent in the third stage of the Giro today. Very sad news and a reminder as always to look after ourselves on the road. :(

http://www.guardian.co.uk/sport/2011/may/09/wouter-weylandt-giro-ditalia
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Pretty shocking news. None of the reports I've read so far seem to know what happened :|

Jonny69 said:
What thread do the cleats have on them? If they are M6 you should be able to use anything. Saundie, I would have though the guy in Deen's Garage would have some spares. He seems to have most stuff unless it's well long-obsolete when I go in there.
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I've been able to ascertain that they're 16mm M5 countersunk bolts, which saves me from having to buy a whole new set of cleats.

Jonny69 said:
In my news I'm in a bit of a state at the moment. I took a serious hit from a virus and an infection last week, so I've lost 1/2 stone and my legs are week and thin. This has really set me back with my running and cycling and I'm basically back to square 1. As I'm getting my health back I'm trying to stuff in as many calories as I can, but it's hard work and any (very light) exercise is leaving me dizzy and shaky. I'm hoping this will subside asap because, as much as I'd like to get back to work, I'm currently unable to do my commute. It's also 6 weeks to the London to Brighton, which might mean I'll have to re-assess my heroic plan of doing it on my single-speed.
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Sounds like bad times dude, especially considering the injury you'd already incurred. I think you might struggle on the single speed, to be honest - I had a lowest gear of 28.5 inches and ended up walking up Ditchling Beacon. I know you're a bit lighter and a lot stronger than me, but that hill is pretty harsh.

If you'd like some company for your return to cycling I'd be glad to join you - I may even be able to keep up with you in your weakened state :D
 
Reading on here it seems a quite a few of you have done some long distance rides, so I'm hoping you can give me a bit of advice :)

I'm planning on doing the Norwich 100 mile event on the 5th June, so have just under 4 weeks left to prepare. The most I've ridden so far is 60 miles at an average pace of 17.5mph, so I'm reasonably confident I can complete 100 miles, but I'm not sure what I should be aiming for in terms of rides for the next 3 weeks?

Should I be aiming to push up from 60 miles to 70, maybe 80, or should I be focusing on shorter rides and not wearing myself out too much?
 
Mr. Brightside said:
, so with the saddle position right I just need to upgrade the saddle itself (it's the stock Verenti Kilmeston one, which is not great). I ordered one of these when I got back (so many of Wiggle's products are out of stock right now, but through the fact it's clearance I seem to be getting something that would otherwise outside of my budget!): http://www.wiggle.co.uk/selle-italia-prolink-light-gel-flow-saddle/
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Have a look at the specialized riva saddles dave. I'm not sure on their price tho
 
Phil99 said:
Reading on here it seems a quite a few of you have done some long distance rides, so I'm hoping you can give me a bit of advice :)

I'm planning on doing the Norwich 100 mile event on the 5th June, so have just under 4 weeks left to prepare. The most I've ridden so far is 60 miles at an average pace of 17.5mph, so I'm reasonably confident I can complete 100 miles, but I'm not sure what I should be aiming for in terms of rides for the next 3 weeks?

Should I be aiming to push up from 60 miles to 70, maybe 80, or should I be focusing on shorter rides and not wearing myself out too much?
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This late, don't worry about build up your distances, just carry on doing your normal rides. This is presuming you've ridden ~60 miles lots of times?

To ride that extra 40 miles you just need to make sure you fuel yourself correctly while riding.
 
What 6thElement said.

given the location I don't think major climbs are going to be an issue so it's just a question of fuelling correctly. Just make sure you carry some snacks like flapjack and bananas and plenty of water / squash. I don't know the event but I don't doubt that theere will be feed stations that you can and should take advantage of.

Take it steady and enjoy the day.
 
Phil99 said:
Reading on here it seems a quite a few of you have done some long distance rides, so I'm hoping you can give me a bit of advice :)

I'm planning on doing the Norwich 100 mile event on the 5th June, so have just under 4 weeks left to prepare. The most I've ridden so far is 60 miles at an average pace of 17.5mph, so I'm reasonably confident I can complete 100 miles, but I'm not sure what I should be aiming for in terms of rides for the next 3 weeks?

Should I be aiming to push up from 60 miles to 70, maybe 80, or should I be focusing on shorter rides and not wearing myself out too much?
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If you can do 60 at that pace you'll be fine, I hadn't done much more than 50s for a while, then reeled of an 85 with no problem, could easily have done the extra 15. I'd say in the week leading up, do more frequent shorter rides if you can fit them in, rather than long grinds.

And as mentioned, keep the carbs and fluids going in, don't wait until you're drained or thirsty. See you there!
 
Saundie said:
If you'd like some company for your return to cycling I'd be glad to join you - I may even be able to keep up with you in your weakened state :D
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Sounds like a plan. Let me get Brighton out the way and we should get back in the saddle now the weather is nicer.
 
Just to agree with everyone else, I did a 113 mile ride solo (wasn't an event) whilst my previous longest ride was only 40 miles (and that was about a year prior) and my average was 13.5mph. Yes I was knackered afterwards, but no more so than I was after 50 miles really.
 
Saw some dodgy people around my bike today carpark, white van.
So I was questioning my bikes security, currently using Onguard Bulldog D-Lock and was thinking of getting "Abus 54/160 Hb300+Ush54" from the rainforest for £75.
So any tips on what I should do?

That fat guy even asked how much the bike was worth lol, better not park the bike at the same place.
This is at work btw so I'm afraid that they will time my working hours, so I'm going to be a bit cautious from now on. The bike itself is worth £500 after upgrades so not bank breaking.

Any good bike insurance company?
 
remy87 said:
Saw some dodgy people around my bike today carpark, white van.
So I was questioning my bikes security, currently using Onguard Bulldog D-Lock and was thinking of getting "Abus 54/160 Hb300+Ush54" from the rainforest for £75.
So any tips on what I should do?

That fat guy even asked how much the bike was worth lol, better not park the bike at the same place.
This is at work btw so I'm afraid that they will time my working hours, so I'm going to be a bit cautious from now on. The bike itself is worth £500 after upgrades so not bank breaking.

Any good bike insurance company?
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I use a Kryptonite New York 3000 lock. Bit heavy, but I'm riding a tourer rather than a road bike, so it's not a big deal. I need to also get a cable so I can lock my front wheel too. I cover my saddle up, and I would never leave it on it's own - would much rather put it with a bunch of bikes - any opportunistic thieves will not waste their time trying to get through my D-lock.

I suggest you get this - http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/KRYPTONITE-NE...ikeLocks_SR&hash=item1c1b4fdbd6#ht_500wt_1148 - and a cable lock, cheaper and probably just as good as that Abus one.

Also, make sure you lock it properly:

kgnzS.jpg


I do this, but I also put it around the frame as well.

Having said that, I still need to insure it and everything, but like you, I'm not sure where to go.

I've been taking the train to my placement over the past few weeks, and there are hundreds of bikes outside the station. Some are poorly locked, but worthless. Most people with expensive bikes lock them inside the rain shelter with multiple locks, and cover the seat too, especially if it is worth a bit (my Brooks is!).

Edit: Remember locks are only a deterrent. A determined thief will most likely have an angle grinder or very strong bolt cutters. If these guys are really acting dodgy, I'd either move my bike or put it somewhere covered by CCTV, and possibly invest in a heavy chain lock and leave it locked up at work when not in use.
 
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apeZ said:
I use a Kryptonite New York 3000 lock. Bit heavy, but I'm riding a tourer rather than a road bike, so it's not a big deal. I need to also get a cable so I can lock my front wheel too. I cover my saddle up, and I would never leave it on it's own - would much rather put it with a bunch of bikes - any opportunistic thieves will not waste their time trying to get through my D-lock.

I suggest you get this - http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/KRYPTONITE-NE...ikeLocks_SR&hash=item1c1b4fdbd6#ht_500wt_1148 - and a cable lock, cheaper and probably just as good as that Abus one.

Having said that, I still need to insure it and everything, but like you, I'm not sure where to go.
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Thanks that's a good price for it, is it long enough to lock the frame + backwheel?
I'm actually using a kryptonite cable as well to lock the front wheel with my Onguard Bulldog, though my bike are using wheel nuts, just want that extra security though.
Yeah I hope someone else got some information on bike insurance I wouldn't mind paying £30-40 for a year for that.

What do you mean by covering the seat? You mean putting a plastic grocery bag over it? or is there a special bag for it?
I was actually thinking of doing "use an old bike chain wrapped in an old innertube and chain the rails to the seat stay (new york style)" probably make the bike bulkier and not sure if my thighs will hit the chains whilst cycling.
Some good ideas here to secure your seat http://www.bikeforums.net/archive/index.php/t-391849.html

Edit: Thanks mate! Though you should really lock your bike with frame + rear wheel if it's your bike on the picture the D- Lock is kinda useless if it's not locked to the frame, but seeing that bike there is a huge gap between the rear wheel and frame.
I'll see how it turns out.
 
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apeZ said:
Also, make sure you lock it properly:

kgnzS.jpg


I do this, but I also put it around the frame as well.
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Supposedly this is the ideal way to lock your bike with a D-Lock if you cant fit frame +wheel+post inside the lock as, they say, you cant get the d-lock through the rear triangle therefore the rear wheel and frame are still protected.

I am not so sure... I am pretty convinced that you could disconnect the wheel and pull it AND the lock through the gap around the drop-outs....

I might try it next time I am taking the wheel off to see...
 
Hm I suppose you are right didn't think of that, now that I imagine the procedure the wheel can't fully be taken out at that position.
 
remy87 said:
Thanks that's a good price for it, is it long enough to lock the frame + backwheel?
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Tight fit, but I can manage it as long as the bike is nice and snug with the metal post or w/e I'm attaching it to.

What do you mean by covering the seat? You mean putting a plastic grocery bag over it? or is there a special bag for it?
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Plastic grocery bag works fine, and most people seem to do this. Keeps your expensive seat out of eyesight and makes the bike look unattractive!

Personally, I either wrap it with my buff or I with a waterproof seat cover that I have in case of rain.

I was actually thinking of doing "use an old bike chain wrapped in an old innertube and chain the rails to the seat stay (new york style)" probably make the bike bulkier and not sure if my thighs will hit the chains whilst cycling.
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Considered that, but decided against it - most likely going to try and go through the seat post and seat railings with my cable... if that doesn't work I'll look at alternatives.

Edit: Thanks mate! Though you should really lock your bike with frame + rear wheel if it's your bike on the picture the D- Lock is kinda useless if it's not locked to the frame, but seeing that bike there is a huge gap between the rear wheel and frame.
I'll see how it turns out.
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Not my bike, I took that picture from Sheldon Brown's website about lock strategy:

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/lock-strategy.html

I put it through the frame, rear wheel and whatever I'm attaching it to. I'll see if I can find a picture.

Edit: Here you go. Look at the U lock in this picture - this is what I do.

aVQzM.jpg


This guy has some good ideas: http://www.mechbgon.com/lock/index.html

Richie said:
Supposedly this is the ideal way to lock your bike with a D-Lock if you cant fit frame +wheel+post inside the lock as, they say, you cant get the d-lock through the rear triangle therefore the rear wheel and frame are still protected.

I am not so sure... I am pretty convinced that you could disconnect the wheel and pull it AND the lock through the gap around the drop-outs....

I might try it next time I am taking the wheel off to see...
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Not sure if I understand you. Assuming the lock hasn't been cut, I don't see how you can remove the rear wheel and expect to get the lock off as well? My U lock is secured at both ends, so the thief has to make two cuts to get it off.
 
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Yes ideal for the u-lock is frame, wheel and post. But if you can only get it around the wheel and post the thief would have to cut through the wheel to pull the bike away from the post you have it locked to.
 
Those of you who have insured your bikes, who did you go for?

I just asked my parents about the household insurance, and it doesn't cover bikes of my value...and I don't know which insurer to go for :/
 
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