Road Cycling

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I can understand the reluctance but even in a really minor collision you should replace it immediately after. The one you mentioned sounds fairly serious.
 
I'm trying to downgrade from -;

main road/nice bike
gym/shop bike
ss bike for what ever reason
bmx..

to -;

main
SS
BMX

donee//

some lols..


Clip 1 - Guy jumps a red and then has a moan at the bus driver? what a bell end.
Clip 2 - Cab driver totes loving me and my "ain't going to ride in a ditch" attitude.

ha.
 
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Do any of you ride tubulars day to day. What have your experience of them been? I'm tempted by some carbon tubs, but they just seem more hassle over clinchers

I've trained pretty much exclusively on them in the past. TBH the advantages besides weight are pretty minimal. Only real big plus is that you're unlikely to get an explosive puncture, and you can kind of ride with a puncture for a short duration. But that's unlikely to happen with a clincher anyway.

Changing a flat with tubtape is slightly easier than clincher imho, as its pretty much roll old tyre off, roll new one on, inflate. However its expensive. Decent tubs don't come cheap at almost double the price of a gp400s for example.

Also be careful in buying tubs with latex tubes as some Vittorias have, unless you like pumping them up again each day.
 


Thank you both, I wish I knew bike parts as I do PC parts, would make this much more easier!

They're all a good shout and all good makes, the compromise (as mentioned) comes from the groupset... Sora/Claris don't have much between them, they're both very good entry level groupsets and you won't have a problem with either (think of them as your i3 and i5 dual cores - both good entry level systems for a beginner). 105 is your 'bread and butter' groupset with a price to match (call it your i5 quad core/i7) everyone and their dog wants it eventually or is riding it already. Day to day riders generally prefer it as it's 'tried and tested'. Your groupsets above this (Dura Ace/Campagnolo/Ultegra) are your Extreme/Octa-core processors. Everyone one day would like to own one, but probably won't unless they invest a large sum of money! They're the ones everyones overclocking (racing)! ;)

You'll shop with your eyes (we all do) so will soon decide on the colour or style you want, what we're trying to do is guide you towards a bike which will suit you for all weather commuting. Having mudguard mounts should be a *must*, certainly if you're commuting every day, whatever the weather. Tyre width clearances matter more to you than some others as not all of your commute is along main roads, personally I wouldn't look larger than 25mm clearance as it looks like you're on tarmac even when 'not on the road'.

Visiting a LBS and chatting to them will hopefully lead to them advising you on a frame type based on your height and what you're using it for - a 'racey' frame for your size won't be that comfortable for long distances and easy commuting (at least not when you're starting). A 'touring' or more 'upright' frame will be more comfortable if you're carrying a rucksack and want to easily cover the miles, but you won't be breaking many speed records... And those are just the 2 'extremes' of road/race bikes. Your body size and shape (mainly arm/leg reach) will determine the frame size, if (like me) you're between sizes the personal 'fit' and advice you get from a Local Bike Shop will be worth the extra you'll pay for a bike from them. You may even get an amazing deal on a trade-in they have (I saw an immaculate Giant Defy 1 2014 with full 105 sell for £400 recently).

Might pop in tomorrow and have a look.
Clothing, helmet, rack/bag and mudguard wise, what should I be looking for?

Helmet is all about budget, personally I'd struggle to justify more than £64 on a helmet for day-to-day. My previous was a Bell from Halfords for £25. My current is a £50 Specialized Echelon, loads more comfortable and a better fit than anything else I've tried (I have a large head).

I've been cycling about a year and I had a 30mph crash downhill last year and landed head first on the road the day I got this thing and it scratched it.. Scratched.. no dents cracks or anything!

The general safety consensus is to always replace a helmet if it's had a bash/knock or any kind of impact.

Every bicycle is a compromise, it's just a matter of choosing the right compromise for you. Or owning four.

N-1 :D
 
Ultegra isn't unobtainable, or a particularly big outlay. I probably wouldn't buy the groupset as a kit out-right, but I was able to get my PX Pro Carbon with full ultegra for £999 on the bike to work scheme which works out at around £65 a month. A fair amount, but in the context of an expensive enough hobby, not ridiculous.

With regards to the quality, my other bike is a 5800 10spd 105. When I first upgraded to 105 I thought it was the bees knees, and it performs well, but it lacks a certain something that I can't put my finger on. The ultegra is just so smooth to ride, the shifting is quick, quiet and smooth. Brakes, with decent pads, actually brake. Going back to my 105 is painful these days, to the point where I don't like to ride it.
 
At the moment I have a crap winter aluminium bike which has mudguards and will just about fit 28mm knobbly tyres so will do for light off-road with the family. I have a better aluminium bike for the summer, which will hopefully be coming out again tomorrow. I am about to build a steel single speed bike.

I would like a decent carbon bike, and once I have that I'll find it hard to justify keeping the better aluminium bike. I can't downgrade it to commuter status as it has no mudguard mounts. If I have space I'll keep it, but it may go. Beyond that if I get into touring I'll buy a titanium bike with mounts all over it.

I can't see myself ever getting into TT'ing so I doubt I'll ever buy one.
 
I would like a decent carbon bike, and once I have that I'll find it hard to justify keeping the better aluminium bike. I can't downgrade it to commuter status as it has no mudguard mounts. If I have space I'll keep it, but it may go. Beyond that if I get into touring I'll buy a titanium bike with mounts all over it.

If you're buying a bike for proper touring surely steel is the way to go? If you're stuck in the ass end of nowhere then finding someone to weld your steel bike is going to be far easier.

..and if you're you're not going to the ass-end of nowhere then you probably don't need that many mounts ;)
 
Only as long as we all pull sexy soapy poses in our lycra.

Just. No.

Ultegra isn't unobtainable, or a particularly big outlay. I probably wouldn't buy the groupset as a kit out-right, but I was able to get my PX Pro Carbon with full ultegra for £999 on the bike to work scheme which works out at around £65 a month. A fair amount, but in the context of an expensive enough hobby, not ridiculous.

Planet X are doing a carbon bike with Ultegra for £799 these days too, absolute steal.

But going full Carbon/Ultegra for your first C2W ride that you don't want to max (so you can buy helmet/gear/extras) also for your first commuter (when you don't commute already) it is complete overkill and a large 'investment'. I would argue that 105 is a good start, but that may be out of budget slightly already.

With regards to the quality, my other bike is a 5800 10spd 105. When I first upgraded to 105 I thought it was the bees knees, and it performs well, but it lacks a certain something that I can't put my finger on. The ultegra is just so smooth to ride, the shifting is quick, quiet and smooth. Brakes, with decent pads, actually brake. Going back to my 105 is painful these days, to the point where I don't like to ride it.

I only recently (December) upgraded to 105 from a combination of Sora/Claris and it was quite a good upgrade for me, can't wait until I buy an Ultegra groupset now! ;)
 
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I love how some cyclists get so desperate to stay in front of someone that just over-took them.. :/ it gets to a point where they jump lights to just get ahead.. only to be over-taken again ;)
 
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