Soldato
- Joined
- 11 Jun 2013
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- 2,632
Also, you can break through 38mph with a few rocks in your rucksack, or preferably, more cake stops 
Road Cycling
- Thread starter Zefan
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Did the first rider survive?
“Matt Brammeier was involved in a high speed collision with a vehicle during the queen stage of the Tour of Utah. Thankfully, Matt has suffered no head, neck or spinal injuries and is currently stable in hospital. His musculoskeletal injuries are significant however. He suffered rib fractures on both sides as well as a small pneumothorax. He also has fractures of the sacral and pelvic bones. Matt is unlikely to require surgery but will need some time to recover from his injuries.”
£500 will you get you something very nice. Get in touch with a good wheel builder, like the chap at the cycle clinic for example, and tell him your budget and what you're after and he'll be able to spec you something within your budget.
Lots!
They're not 'bad' wheels (hey they are Shimano) but there are plenty of other better wheels out there well within your budget...
Yay, it's back up!
If anybody is on catching up with uploads from earlier, do me a favour and kudos this ride:
https://www.strava.com/activities/365664389
(Friend's wee boy's first time using strava and he's getting excited about all the kudos)
Done.
Definately get new wheels - they make a HOOOOOOGE difference. 105 groupset is just fine for us mere mortals and you won't notice the change (IMHO). I really like my Campy Zonda's which are well within budget
Campy Khamsim G3's here and I rate them. I'd happily buy a set of the Zondas or Scirocco's. Although as mentioned you can get some very good handbuilt for that price, although I'm not 100% sure hand built are what you need, they're great if you know specifically what you want but for a 'general wheelset' there are much cheaper options.
Far too fast, most of them seemed to be - needed better marshalling/signage!
A little cheaper at Rose inc P&P http://www.rosebikes.co.uk/product/detail/aid:789969
Given the strength of the £ at the moment, Rose, Bike Discount, Bike 24 etc are all worth checking!!!
Edit..
Even cheaper at Bikediscount.de (under £60 inc P&P): http://www.bike-discount.de/en/buy/continental-grand-prix-4-season-25-mm-28861
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Got any links to quality discussion on this by any chance? I just can't physically see how it can be possible, particularly with UCI regulations on saddle position.
Cheers, be interested to hear how far fore/aft you are
Sorry not going to have a chance this evening, but haven't forgotten Jonny!
Why worry about UCI regulations? Just do what is comfortable for you!
- Joined
- 3 May 2004
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- Kapitalist Republik of Surrey
It just got me a bit confused, that's all, assuming that their saddles would be in a pretty good position, but at the same time noting that you could keep sliding the saddle further and further forwards and get yourself into quite an extreme tt position. Hence, probably, why they brought in the 50mm limit.
I know it's saddle-specific to some degree, but the nose of my Rolls is about 1cm behind the bb. I think this is skewed slightly by the fact that it's a Rolls which is quite an old fashioned design and also by the fact that I'm trying a bit of midfoot cleat positioning (equivalent in toeclips) so I'm a bit further forwards anyway.
I've had a bit more of a read around and it looks like it happens for some people and not others and is very much dependent on femur length, foot size, length of torso and how flexible you are. Having seen my riding position in profile, I think where I am is basically correct and I just make the occasional tweak to suit my riding, comfort etc.
I know it's saddle-specific to some degree, but the nose of my Rolls is about 1cm behind the bb. I think this is skewed slightly by the fact that it's a Rolls which is quite an old fashioned design and also by the fact that I'm trying a bit of midfoot cleat positioning (equivalent in toeclips) so I'm a bit further forwards anyway.
I've had a bit more of a read around and it looks like it happens for some people and not others and is very much dependent on femur length, foot size, length of torso and how flexible you are. Having seen my riding position in profile, I think where I am is basically correct and I just make the occasional tweak to suit my riding, comfort etc.
Retul bike fit with Planet X is currently down to £75 in Sheffield, if anyone is after a bike fit!
Thinking it might be worth a punt to see if they can sort out some niggling issues, but not really seen any feedback from people who've been, compared to more expensive local fitters in the Derbyshire area
Thinking it might be worth a punt to see if they can sort out some niggling issues, but not really seen any feedback from people who've been, compared to more expensive local fitters in the Derbyshire area
a good builder will pick bits based on what you do, you'll get far closer to your ideal wheel even if you don't know what you want. Just tell them how you ride, how much you weigh etc and boom.
I've borrowed a luggage scale, so have given my bikes a quick weigh:
Barely recognisable Carrera TDF with Claris, mudguards and handbuilt wheels: 11.4Kg. It is what it is. It's a heavy winter bike for heavy winter use.
Single speed steel On One Pompino: 11.7Kg. I'll be replacing the wheels on this next year, so will hopefully get it a bit lighter, maybe rivalling the Carrera.
Planet X RT-58 alloy with Tiagra and H Plus Son/Miche Primato wheels: 9.4Kg. Pretty respectable for an aluminium bike.
One of these days I'll buy a carbon bike and it'll probably come in at under 8Kg, but if I'm brutally honest I know i could lose 1.4Kg if I could really be arsed and it would be a lot cheaper than the carbon.
Barely recognisable Carrera TDF with Claris, mudguards and handbuilt wheels: 11.4Kg. It is what it is. It's a heavy winter bike for heavy winter use.
Single speed steel On One Pompino: 11.7Kg. I'll be replacing the wheels on this next year, so will hopefully get it a bit lighter, maybe rivalling the Carrera.
Planet X RT-58 alloy with Tiagra and H Plus Son/Miche Primato wheels: 9.4Kg. Pretty respectable for an aluminium bike.
One of these days I'll buy a carbon bike and it'll probably come in at under 8Kg, but if I'm brutally honest I know i could lose 1.4Kg if I could really be arsed and it would be a lot cheaper than the carbon.
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After picking up my bike having just stuck two 750ml bottles on there I decided I would have a better performing bike if I could just drink less
Really struggled today, yesterdays fresh legs were a red herring! Last 5 miles felt like I was riding with flat tyres covered in glue
Three more enforced days off the bike due to working away again then out on Friday Better be a good weekend to catch up!
Really struggled today, yesterdays fresh legs were a red herring! Last 5 miles felt like I was riding with flat tyres covered in glue
Three more enforced days off the bike due to working away again then out on Friday
Better be a good weekend to catch up!
Soldato
- Joined
- 8 Dec 2002
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- North Yorkshire
Cheers Von, I've sent him a message
Tried York Cycleworks? Not a million miles from you and they build awesome wheels.
Man of Honour
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- 16 May 2005
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Two of mine had saddle bags and pumps, but I doubt that makes much difference
You could easily be looking at half a kilogram with those.
Posted this in the MTB thread but as usual no responses. Just wondering if anyone from here has any ideas?
I'll weigh them and see. I'd be amazed if the rt-58 is below 9kg but it's possible. Not bad for a £600 bike and £300 wheels.
Man of Honour
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- 16 May 2005
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- 31,297
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- Manchester
Well, that's with the assumption that the saddle bag had some essentials in it of course
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