Road Cycling
- Thread starter FrenchTart
- Start date
Very interested in this too, although as I've already got a Kurt Kinetic Road Machine II I begrudge getting *another* fluid trainer (technically the same) with just the smart components. The KK smart module looks good, but I have a feeling when I'm wanting a smart trainer it either won't be released/still too new & buggy/still stupid money for what it is. I'll probably go the KICKR/MUIN route as they're tried & tested. Can probably find one second hand too when new trainers are released!
Personally I want a smart trainer which will do 15% or more (otherwise I may as well continue with the KKRMII).
Not on my friends list so don't think so. You do get dodgy Strava accounts, not to mention those following thousands of others for no reason... I tend to look at the profile to try and determine if a 'real' person, I then look at area or where they ride to determine if I *should* know them or not. I delete most requests I get from randoms and Zwifters.
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*cough*
Sales on the forum yo.
Sales on the forum yo.
Thanks Shamrock.
Give him a warning for having a Bianchi in the wrong colour!
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No worries. Please can you delete/edit your earlier post though?
There actually arent that many special tools needed. The cassette tool is slightly different, and if you're changing ultratorque/powertorque bearings, you need a puller set, but UT/PT bearings last really well.
everything else comes apart with standard tools. The odd torx bolt here and there, but that's hardly campag specific these days
oh, and the chain tool. But why you wouldnt just use a KMC instead i dont know
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Sorted out my brake pad problems, a mate is selling me his old Tiara groupset for £50. Legend. Couple of years old but plenty of pad left on the callipers and it's an upgrade on the 2012 Sora groupset and FSA cranks I'm currently using.
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Cheers
Noticed I was getting some brake rub on the rear under load so had my wheelset serviced. A bearing replaced, true checked and hubs serviced.
It's improved slightly but is still evident to a degree. I did change wheel skewers recently but I'd noticed this prior to that so it can't be them.
I'll check the caliper housing is secure and not moving though I don't think it's the cause as it occurs riding in straight lines as well as out the saddle & climbing. As if I shift my weight around on the bike leaning & steering side to side it comes and goes too. Even releasing the cable tension with the barrel adjuster and turning the bars 90 degrees L/R can't replicate it, in case anyone was thinking it might be cable tension.
Will see if I can spot what it might be this weekend but does anyone have any suggestions?
It's improved slightly but is still evident to a degree. I did change wheel skewers recently but I'd noticed this prior to that so it can't be them.
I'll check the caliper housing is secure and not moving though I don't think it's the cause as it occurs riding in straight lines as well as out the saddle & climbing. As if I shift my weight around on the bike leaning & steering side to side it comes and goes too. Even releasing the cable tension with the barrel adjuster and turning the bars 90 degrees L/R can't replicate it, in case anyone was thinking it might be cable tension.
Will see if I can spot what it might be this weekend but does anyone have any suggestions?
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Check for dirt in your dropouts & give them a good clean. Check how true the wheel is yourself with a ruler against the rim (with tyres removed), you don't really need a truing stand for observing. As they've had a new bearing and been 'serviced' I'd expect less than 2mm lateral travel across the whole rim. Hopefully less/none!
There is a bit of give in a caliper anyway, pivots wear and some get stiffer so a new caliper might be advisable if they're old?
As it's 'under load' it could be unequal spoke tensions, they might not be 'loose' enough for you to tell, but one section of spokes looser than another would cause the rim to flex when under load, even if the spokes are not getting loose enough to feel by hand...
Ride over to Hereford and I'll check them with my park tension meter (or easier - ask the LBS if they checked them!)
They won't be too bad to buy something from just don't go there for repairs.
Took my bike there for assessment after a crash and they shone a torch down the tube to determine that the carbon isn't damaged
I wonder if they use the same method for checking the structural integrity of tunnels.
Took my bike there for assessment after a crash and they shone a torch down the tube to determine that the carbon isn't damaged
I wonder if they use the same method for checking the structural integrity of tunnels.
Yep. Got to agree. When I built my last campy bike all I needed was the cassette tool. Which I happened to have already.
it could just be your mad sick watttzzzzzz flexing the frame or wheel or both enough to make this happen. It's what i always blame.