Road Cycling

@Roady

It's just odd to not test at the given crank length relative to your inseam and total height as a starting point and then perhaps going even shorter depending on mobility. Cranks too long and there is no correct saddle height as you're too low or too high. In other words, you can't fit someone on cranks too long. If something isn't correct, you'll get the imbalance as the compensation strategy will almost always favour a side. How this presents is very different for people. You get this anyway a lot of the time even setup ideally, that's human biomechanics. People seem to understand about bike size, as in, I'm smaller, so my bike is smaller, but they can't make the connection with cranks. It's part down to companies supplying the bikes.

It's why I ask about inseam. I don't even need to see you on a bike to know what your starting point would be as an ideal safe max length. What I can't tell you is if you would be better going even shorter. Lots of people, particularly on mid and small bikes are on cranks too long.

Maybe, but be aware this wasn't my first fit with him, along with being already on a bike he had fitted for me 5-6 years ago and we used to ride semi-regularly together (when he worked at Local Bike Shop I use). This wasn't all 'measure me for a new bike' as he had a starting point - but really a check of my current fit alongside advice for what frame size should I get for a new bike.

I get your point about cranks, especially for those of us 'not-quite-normal' (ha!). Being around 5'7" I've always been slightly below 'normal' height (around 5'8-9"?) which is why I was quite conscious about riding a 54cm frame being correct for me. I was almost convinced it wasn't due to my shorter legs... But fit confirmed a 54cm as best. He did say I'd easily fit/ride on a 52cm but nothing to gain from doing so (for an aero road bike - maybe an all day comfort/tourer it would be). The modern trend is putting more and more focus on the pedal stroke. I guess we're learning through efficiency in the pedal stroke being equally as important as power when it comes to rider comfort/progress. Especially for recreational riders. 'Spinning is winning'!? :D

I didn't say he hadn't checked things - height is something I can quote (172cm) but Matt did check it. Although we didn't specifically measure inseam (mine is around 78cm - does that sound right?!), he did measure inside of knees to pedal spindle so figure that's really the same thing... The first hour of the fit was assessing me on my current setup in various positions (2 bikes) along with replicating that on the RETUL machine before changing anything. The next part was mobility/flexibility off the bike, checking mobility and tightness of muscles while discussing injuries and pain(s). More physio than fit, he identified tight hamstrings both sides (although said that's very common of every recreational cyclist he sees), with the left being tighter so confirming what he'd spotted on the bike about leg length (sent me a bunch of YT videos with exercises to do). Next step was back on the RETUL measuring things and making adjustments. Adjusted cleats slightly - commented they where mostly ok but my pedal stroke very square to the bike (although I'm slightly 'duck footed' when stood). My knee angle was 'very good' with barely any lateral movement. Changed cranks to 170 as a definite & obvious 'easy win', video again to prove ankle angle was better in the various parts of the pedal stroke. Then tried a cleat spacer on the left and it actually made my pedal stroke/angles worse (he seemed surprised by this so maybe it works for others).
 
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Great news on the bike & good choice with the TCR, you'll love it!

Your other half still doing things with shoes? I've a pair of Fizik Powerstrap R5 in 'Coral' with a big scuff on the inside heel (bought them like it). I'm not going to wear them any more (too narrow for me - end up with sore little pinkys every time!) just wonder if getting a repair/coverup done on them is worth it to flog them.

Hope so, hopefully haven't missed all the nice weather.

Yeah she still does, dunno if it'll be worth it though by the time you send them here and she sends them back thats £15 in postage! depends how bad the scuff is and if they're worth anything second hand.
 
Have you gone for rim brakes on your new bike? What was the reason out of interest?


Anyone going to this in November? I've sent it out to my cycling group and got a little interest for a day out in London for bikes, beers and curry. https://www.rouleur.cc/pages/rouleur-live

No I was referring to my old bike which was rim brake, this one will stop me having that fear of being caught out in a downpour like I did multiple times last "summer"
 
Hope so, hopefully haven't missed all the nice weather.

Yeah she still does, dunno if it'll be worth it though by the time you send them here and she sends them back thats £15 in postage! depends how bad the scuff is and if they're worth anything second hand.
Feeling the same as you - just glad I had some good outdoor rides before... Just typical to be injured/busy the whole of July! Saw you've been getting some mileage in anyway. Hope the house side of things is going well too?!

Hmmm good point, would be a different matter if I was going to use them. Only paid £50 for them as a bit of an experiment/shoe test mid-lockdowns! See if I can get £20 for them, needs some elbow grease to get them clean first though!

Actually now riding a pair of Lake CX176 in a wide fit (I have too many shoes...) Not sure who here had said to try them?! They're nice, but very flexible uppers, maybe too much so for me, think I prefer a stiffer shoe...! Not convinced they're going to age well being this flexible but we'll see! :D
 
I think the problem here is the queue to get started. The timer starts from when they open the course, not when you cross the start line, which can be an hour after it's started... Apparently you want to be lining up at least an hour before start time if you want to get the most of the cut-ff time.
thats correct....my mate did it 2-3 years ago, when the event was just schambles...feed stations, fights lol

he said they went for the start line around 5am or so, as the time starts for all at t he same time...
first 150km have most climbs in it, so survive this, you will finish it ;)
 
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Not for me. It makes quite a difference to the average speed you'll need to do 12.6mph vs 16mph (including at least one stop in that average... with a lot of climbing!). I want as much help as I can get!

Am i being stupid? I saw the cut off time was 20.5hrs. That works out at 9.46mph assuming the earlist start time. Assuming maybe 3hrs worth of stops in that time still takes you up to 11.08mph and then with the 1hr delay to start you're at 11.75mph. Unsure how you've got an hour delay making ~4mph variance over such a distance.

Plus the hills are are front loaded, it's just coasting after half way

(I'm aware i'm making this sound easy and yet my longest ride so far is around 4hrs :p)
 
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I saw the cut off time was 20.5hrs.
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They open gates at 6:30am. If you aren't at the 97km mark by 11:15am, you can't carry on to the 225km route. As you can see, starting at 6:30am or later at 7:30am is quite a big difference.
 
On my side i really dropped the ball today. Set my alarm early to get out before it got hot. However went too early and woke up with it being dark outside. My head knew that i should've got up, done some stretching/warm up and then by the time i was dressed etc it'd be light.
However my body decided lying in some coolish conditions was more enjoyable, and then i fell back asleep and when i woke it was then too late :(
 
On my side i really dropped the ball today. Set my alarm early to get out before it got hot. However went too early and woke up with it being dark outside. My head knew that i should've got up, done some stretching/warm up and then by the time i was dressed etc it'd be light.
However my body decided lying in some coolish conditions was more enjoyable, and then i fell back asleep and when i woke it was then too late :(

Every time I read one of your posts I come away thinking "poor guy, he leads a hard life" :p
 
@fez why am I staring at a shopping list full of waxing bits? Am I right in thinking that even a cheap little slowcooker like this should be fine for melting the wax and I don't need to buy the fancy cycling focussed ones that are £100+

The Silca strip chips seem super helpful as well, can just toss it all into one put with a brand new chain and it'll get it ready. Though it needs to get to 125c and I don't know if a regular slowcooker would do that?

If I do this, I'll probably just stick to the regular ultegra chains and get 2 of them instead of a fancy gold one. I also may take it as an excuse to change from a 11-30 to a 11-32 for a tiny bit of help on the hills!

Or shall I just do the lazier, easier and cheaper option and stick with what I know. Isn't Wax a bit of a faff especially once the roads get wet?
 
Had the day off yesterday, with some personal odds and ends to get done, but managed to crank out a quick 60k on the new bike. Riding late morning on Monday is an absolute joy compared to evenings and weekends! The roads were so clear and Richmond Park was delightful
 
@fez why am I staring at a shopping list full of waxing bits? Am I right in thinking that even a cheap little slowcooker like this should be fine for melting the wax and I don't need to buy the fancy cycling focussed ones that are £100+

The Silca strip chips seem super helpful as well, can just toss it all into one put with a brand new chain and it'll get it ready. Though it needs to get to 125c and I don't know if a regular slowcooker would do that?

If I do this, I'll probably just stick to the regular ultegra chains and get 2 of them instead of a fancy gold one. I also may take it as an excuse to change from a 11-30 to a 11-32 for a tiny bit of help on the hills!

Or shall I just do the lazier, easier and cheaper option and stick with what I know. Isn't Wax a bit of a faff especially once the roads get wet?

I just bought the bag of silca stuff and you can stick that in a pan of boiling water and let it melt and its all self contained. Honestly, it would be nice to have an all in one solution and the wax only ever gets up to about 85-90 degrees in the boiling water so perhaps not entirely optimum. No idea how hot a crock pot gets.

Perhaps one of those things I will splurge on when I have a new house with a garage and more space to store stuff like this.

The main benefits of a waxed chain are the cleanliness and longevity. Honestly though, it is more faff than oil as you can wipe the chain and re-oil in 1 minute vs the bit of extra work at the start and slightly more work to keep a waxed chain nice.

I haven't run it through the winter yet but I don't cycle that much outside in the winter so its probably not such an issue. I intend to try this winter though.
 
I was eyeing up one of the proper Silca things and they do look very cool. I like the idea of the waxed chain. Although i also like the idea of tubeless but am too lazy to likely make the switch to either!

Maybe could buy @Junglist a t shirt that says

"I like my chain like i like my balls......Waxed"

In fact, that's genius. I'm copyrighting that!
 
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Yeah, I did see the bag but then it involves cleaning the chain. Using it in a slow cooker you can use those strip chips and just chuck in a new chain. Then I guess once it cools and hardens it'll just stay in the pot waiting for the next application.

The Silca/Cyclowax melters look really smart but at £99 vs £14 for a slowcooker which appears to do the same job, not sure it's worth the extra.

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Just staring at this currently. Hmm..
 
Yeah, I did see the bag but then it involves cleaning the chain. Using it in a slow cooker you can use those strip chips and just chuck in a new chain. Then I guess once it cools and hardens it'll just stay in the pot waiting for the next application.

The Silca/Cyclowax melters look really smart but at £99 vs £14 for a slowcooker which appears to do the same job, not sure it's worth the extra.



Just staring at this currently. Hmm..

You'll also need a tool to remove the quick link in future. Some tools do both in one, but i think mine are separate.
 
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