Road Cycling

On di2 (sorry) you get a beep when you hit the end of the range but I still occasionally try to shift again. You know, just in case the computer was wrong.

Haha i do the same.

It's also nice to have a data screen for gearing. My main screen is the map taking up ~75%, then under it i have average power and my gears (Edge 1030 so big screen)

Having the current gear selection on the display is hugely useful as sometimes i'll hold off on a change because i know it gets steeper and i need that mental element of knowing i can drop a gear. Probably stupid physcially because i tire out more not changing early, but mentally it helps and i think that's bigger.
 
That and probably always having reliable gear changes is probably quite a sweet deal!

Though I'm not sure what I'm more excited about. Easier gears or electric! I probably have a body type (assuming I was in fit condition :p ) better suited to a sprinter/punchuer but I enjoy riding up hills which I happen to suck at it, go figure!

Edit: Stopped messing about and ordered it. My partner said she wouldn't mind me doing her bike as well if it means she doesn't get the leg tattoo any more
 
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think I sorta realized why I can't get comfy on my current bike.. always feels off. - Been trying to get into biking but each ride breaks me.

I looked at my previous "comfy" bike geometry and its quite a long top tube compared to current yet sizing wise the current bike matches my height, problem is, my wing span is unusual, really long arms which is probably why I felt a lot better on a long TT bike. Never really thought about it until now.
 
The whole having a clean drivetrain and not black gunk everywhere is quite appealing
Very appealing! But the amount of time and faffing involved with wax... Rotating chains and such. Too much maintenance for me, I'd rather spend the time riding - or doing more useful maintenance, like the current cleaning & sorting of things I never seem to do enough of! ;)

Have thought of going the 'Squirt' route as don't have to do all the special waxy stuff with it, treat it more like a lube and then see how different it is to my preferred Finish Line Green (which is a very gunky 'Road Gravy' lube). But for me, I know I abuse chains, I don't spend enough time cleaning them enough to prolong their life as it is, so any extra time cleaning & lubing what I already have & use is the more sensible option. Or spend the money on better quality chains... I'll have to do that with my new bike anyway - but that won't be ridden all weathers! :D

Let us know your adventures with wax. Should prove entertaininginteresting

I had a slow cooker until I left it on for 2 months with my wax in :D need to get a new one, although think it'll be quicker and easier to just use an old pan with a thermometer.

Yes sonic bath here roady, works a treat with white spirit.
Haha, oooh defo get one with a timer or thermal cutoff! I'd be better off just buying a new pot for one of ours as can you imagine her face if I wanted to use it for doing bike stuff! :cry: ;)

With the sonic bath, for the general 'tricky' cleaning tasks would it work? The times I look at the bits in the rear derailleur I just can't get to which pick up such a coating of grime from dirty riding. Like the inner parts of the cage, that almost solid buildup of dust and chain lube over many years. Would it (safely) strip all that out? Not sure I'd want to put an electric motor into white spirit overnight but somehow thinking just the moving mechanical parts of derailleurs...

Decided I will give the wax a go. Though my idea of going up to a 32t at the back has been ruined as apparently my short cage derailleurs only supports up to 30t.... Which is worrying because I have 11-32 on my trainer :o

So I'll stick to a 11-30 at least the chain sizing is already completed

I actually just checked and it’s a 11-28 on my trainer. No idea why I thought it was an 11-32.

I’ll just play it safe and get the same 11-30 cassette just in case - just rule out something rude I can break lol
The cost of cassettes and the price you're paying for that new chain I'd go with what you want, shouldn't be compromises when you're spending that much...! Short cage can do 32t with some careful indexing (pretty sure there's a GCN video on it - worth googling). Certainly an 11s Di2 (R8070) short cage derailleur can so a R8000 mechanical can. Bu I do know my older 6780 didn't seem to (but didn't try too hard).

Nothing wrong with 11-30, although personally I do prefer a 11-32. Many of the newer bikes come with 11-30, whereas a few years back that was 11-28 and you had to choose to go lower - to 11-32. I have changed to 11-34 without noticing many more gaps - but I love hills so it's all the lower part rather than really pushing the top end and finding them there. My trainer has an 11-28 and wouldn't bother with lower indoors (you cab lower trainer 'feel'/'difficulty' to decrease the impact of gradients - but you can't increase it to give yourself faster gears on the flat).

Although I'm running a 50/34 at the front indoors (same outdoor) and before my accident had reached the point where I was starting to spin it out on the turbo at the top end, so need to change that when opportunity arises... I have previously ridden 52/36 outdoors for a few years, didn't really notice a huge difference at the top end, but did suffer more in the small ring. I don't find 50/34 slow outdoor for the area I live in and the sort of riding I do...
 
think I sorta realized why I can't get comfy on my current bike.. always feels off. - Been trying to get into biking but each ride breaks me.

I looked at my previous "comfy" bike geometry and its quite a long top tube compared to current yet sizing wise the current bike matches my height, problem is, my wing span is unusual, really long arms which is probably why I felt a lot better on a long TT bike. Never really thought about it until now.
Gurrddddeeeerrrrrrssss!

Get a longer stem, maybe fiddle with shifters to drop yourself a bit lower. See what happens! Sure saddle height is good?

I'm in Sussex this weekend. Eastbourne for 3 days. Know any dog friendly beaches with sand for a 6 year old to build sandcastles?! :D
 
Gurrddddeeeerrrrrrssss!

Get a longer stem, maybe fiddle with shifters to drop yourself a bit lower. See what happens! Sure saddle height is good?

I'm in Sussex this weekend. Eastbourne for 3 days. Know any dog friendly beaches with sand for a 6 year old to build sandcastles?! :D

somehow still around lol.

that's what I was thinking.. or just get a whole new bike because n+1 right? saddle height is fine, followed a million guides etc to make sure it's fine. It's the reach that's odd so a longer stem may-be the way forward as this one is 80mm..

never really been down to look at any beaches around eastbourne, west wittering beach is where we usually go down to but it'll be crazy busy if the weather is nice on sunday! enjoy either way..
 
Very appealing! But the amount of time and faffing involved with wax... Rotating chains and such. Too much maintenance for me, I'd rather spend the time riding - or doing more useful maintenance, like the current cleaning & sorting of things I never seem to do enough of! ;)


Haha, oooh defo get one with a timer or thermal cutoff! I'd be better off just buying a new pot for one of ours as can you imagine her face if I wanted to use it for doing bike stuff! :cry: ;)

With the sonic bath, for the general 'tricky' cleaning tasks would it work? The times I look at the bits in the rear derailleur I just can't get to which pick up such a coating of grime from dirty riding. Like the inner parts of the cage, that almost solid buildup of dust and chain lube over many years. Would it (safely) strip all that out? Not sure I'd want to put an electric motor into white spirit overnight but somehow thinking just the moving mechanical parts of derailleurs...
Waxing is great if it's a nice summer road bike! everything else not worth the effort.

HAHA i kept wondering everytime what the smell was and could never figure it out! absolutely stunk, very lucky didn't catch fire.

Yes, I know of someone who after every cross race takes off cassette chain and chainrings and just chucks it in the sonic cleaner for an hour. might need a few cycles for your case as the liquid you're washing it inc will get contaminated but would do it perfect.
 
8S0Tmhr.jpg


Not the best picture but all done. Process wasn't too bad though I can imagine doing the proper way and degreasing it would take some time. Now I have to wait until it's dry to try it :cry:
 
Nice

I'm unsure if i need to adjust my FD. It keeps dropping when switching from the big to little chainring. I've done ~3000km with the bike pretty much all in nice conditions, although maintenance has been slack to say the least. The rest of the changes are still excellent.

It's not every time, but not sure what could be causing it.
 
Also been trying to decide on this mornings ride (i managed to get up and out this time!) I genuinely don't think i'll be in a place to do the event in October. The weather has hit me a lot this last months and training has dropped with my body struggling in the heat combined with my erm "discomforts".

I'll have September and October and the aim of losing weight for the climbs so it's not out there, but i think the impact of steep hills which absolutely kills my pacing, there's little chance i'll be able to keep up the average pace needed factoring in a few checkpoints. The minimum pace on their site is quoted at 25kph which is around my standard pacing on rides half that distance and without the amount of elevation involved.

I figure i therefore have 2 options

1 - Drop down to the 80km version which still has ~1500m and would be a decent test
2 - Accept i may well get dropped by the pacer teams, but just carry on as a solo rider to complete the course.


Option 1 means i might get a little medal, although there's still a chance of me getting dropped! I also don't really care about medals, any running ones i have are shoved in a tub somewhere. I also missed a cut off on a long running event 2 years ago and always wished i'd just carried on even if unofficially. It was front loaded with hills and i was feeling decent at the checkpoint and was confident i would've made the overall time goal had i been allowed to continue. That's always annoyed me that i didn't prove to myself i could do it. The difference being i was confident going into that event of finishing. I'd done loads of training and been prepared. Just wasn't experienced on some absolutely horrific technical terrain which meant i couldn't run without risking breaking ankles.

I feel like it's option 2 for me. It'll be much more fulfilling i think and by trying to make the decision before hand, it'll help my pacing during the event rather than trying to kill myself keeping up with the pack and blowing up.
 
Nice

I'm unsure if i need to adjust my FD. It keeps dropping when switching from the big to little chainring. I've done ~3000km with the bike pretty much all in nice conditions, although maintenance has been slack to say the least. The rest of the changes are still excellent.

It's not every time, but not sure what could be causing it.

Does it happen when you're putting power through the pedals or even when pedalling lightly?

I really need to learn how to index my gears but the thought of tinkering and making it worse puts me off!
 
Does it happen when you're putting power through the pedals or even when pedalling lightly?

I really need to learn how to index my gears but the thought of tinkering and making it worse puts me off!

It can seem a black art and even at times I have "WTF is going on" moments on the winter bike. Don't start 10 minutes before you're heading out on a ride, it's one of those jobs to do without pressure IMO.

Park Tools have good videos to walk you through eg

 
Does it happen when you're putting power through the pedals or even when pedalling lightly?

I really need to learn how to index my gears but the thought of tinkering and making it worse puts me off!

No, i like to think i'm fairly good at easing off the pedals when changing gears. Especially at the front. I probably need to be more focused, but it's one of those where i'm conscious of it and it doesn't do it, then BAM no chain, suggesting it probably is when i'm not as focussed and therefore pedaling with more power than i should.
 
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The problem I always had with mechanical is that everything would be perfect in the stand but as soon as power was going through the drivetrain it wouldn't behave in quite the same way and 2-3 rides later I would be frustrated again. I think there was a problem with the internal cable routing causing friction or something.

Luckily Di2 doesn't have these issues to the point where I don't really think about it any more.
 
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