Road Cycling

I quite like my domane not the lightest bike but I do like I can put all my spares inside the down tube
Saw some bloke faffing with his earlier and just thought the benefit was far outweighed by the messing around. Rather just have a small saddle bag.

Hopefully new roadbike should turn up this week. Went for the giant tcr advanced pro with rival axs groupset in the end. Hopefully shouldn't be too much of a departure from my felt FR1 just with the benefit of the removal of untimely death if it rains mid ride and I have to break.
 
weather looks okay for tomorrow, so as long I won't oversleep, will be doing LDN- Brighton-LDN.
approx 210-220 km for me
WELVvTB.png
So was 216.9km , 2100m ele and avg speed of 25.8kmh..
4 of us, I was the slowest ... Others had 27odd ..but they did only 180km ;)
 
Saw some bloke faffing with his earlier and just thought the benefit was far outweighed by the messing around. Rather just have a small saddle bag.

Hopefully new roadbike should turn up this week. Went for the giant tcr advanced pro with rival axs groupset in the end. Hopefully shouldn't be too much of a departure from my felt FR1 just with the benefit of the removal of untimely death if it rains mid ride and I have to break.
On the previous bike i did use a saddle bag, but i would take it off the bike to clean and often i forgot to put it back on an go out without it. When i brought the bike i did think it was a bit of a gimic but it seems to work for me. The Flap door has a multi tool as part of the assembly and then in the pouch i only have a set of tyre levers, 2 tpu tubes and 2 co2 canisters and that rolls real tight and is easy enough to get in an out without any bother. I generally carry a pump in the back of jersey on a longer rides as just in case.

I have seen a fair few that try an put way too much into these pouches and then can barly roll them up and then spend ages trying to wedge them in and wonder why they spend ages and struggle to get it out.

As i am making some progress this year if it continues im hoping to go for something a little more sportier than a domane so will be going back to the saddle bag. I was considering an edmonda origionally but that looks like its either going to be a madone or a supersix evo, though because im 165 but i have shorter than normal legs its going to be a xs on the madone but i might have to look at the 44 on the evo as i think the 48 i might struggle with the standover height.
 
Premonition. Riding a rim brake bike with carbon rims last summer in multiple downpours almost saw me in a few ditches.

Have you gone for rim brakes on your new bike? What was the reason out of interest?


Anyone going to this in November? I've sent it out to my cycling group and got a little interest for a day out in London for bikes, beers and curry. https://www.rouleur.cc/pages/rouleur-live
 
Think it's time to replace my chain as the gears are skipping when I try to change on the rear.

I last replaced it with an OEM chain from Merlin cycles but it didn't come with a quick-link, just a regular pin that I pushed through with my chain breaker tool.

If I was thinking about exploring the world of wax, would it be better to buy a chain with a quick link and a quick link tool or shall I just stick to the OEM style chain and not bother about waxing?

Also I am totally thinking of being a gucci belt wearer and going for a gold chain because why not
 
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I've just booked the Mallorca 312 with some friends next year. That will give me something to train towards this coming winter! Realistically, even the 225km version will be a challenge enough for me I think.

What always cracks me up is the lack of consistency on data.

The "Elevation" profile shows 5050m, but then you scroll down and the Strava route says 4600! Ok 400m over 200miles is minimal, but get things consistent!


Also wonder if this would be a nicer target than the Alicante Gravel event for me, albeit likely the year after. Cut off times seem quite generous which is nice
 
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That would look awesome on your black bike :cool:

Have to put colour on it wherever possible! Though a gold chain at £61 is a whole lot less appealing than a Shimano one at £28!

I just don't know if I can be bothered to deal with the hassles of waxing. The Cyclowax bundle is tempting at £160 for everything plus a chain.
 
Think it's time to replace my chain as the gears are skipping when I try to change on the rear.

I last replaced it with an OEM chain from Merlin cycles but it didn't come with a quick-link, just a regular pin that I pushed through with my chain breaker tool.

If I was thinking about exploring the world of wax, would it be better to buy a chain with a quick link and a quick link tool or shall I just stick to the OEM style chain and not bother about waxing?

Also I am totally thinking of being a gucci belt wearer and going for a gold chain because why not

If you chain is skipping I wouldn't be surprised if you need to replace the whole lot. Chain, cassette and chainrings. I would be careful getting OEM chains as dodgy chains are the quickest way to ruin your drivetrain. People have stories of chains wearing out in less than 1000km and taking their drivetrain with it.

Do you have a chain checker btw? You should be getting 2 chains per cassette and with waxing, could be 3+. How many thousand kms have you put through the drivetrain do you reckon?

If you are going down the waxing route you really need to start from a fresh chain and a very clean drivetrain. Basically take everything off and get it immaculate. With regards to waxing, its a bit of a faff at first but after that its super simple. I rotate 2 chains and use drip wax in between immersion waxes. The initial stripping of the chain is perhaps the hardest thing to get right. I ended up buying the silca stuff that you just dump the chain in and it does the job for you. I tried doing it manually a few times but it never came out perfectly clean and took a while to do.


What always cracks me up is the lack of consistency on data.

The "Elevation" profile shows 5050m, but then you scroll down and the Strava route says 4600! Ok 400m over 200miles is minimal, but get things consistent!


Also wonder if this would be a nicer target than the Alicante Gravel event for me, albeit likely the year after. Cut off times seem quite generous which is nice

Yeah, its estimated elevation from the gpx data vs the actual data collected by (I assume) the altimeter on the GPS. It can vary a few hundred metres on a 50km ride for me.
 
If you chain is skipping I wouldn't be surprised if you need to replace the whole lot. Chain, cassette and chainrings. I would be careful getting OEM chains as dodgy chains are the quickest way to ruin your drivetrain. People have stories of chains wearing out in less than 1000km and taking their drivetrain with it.#
Not sure if skipping is the right word. I'll try to change gear and then it may not happen immediately but there is a slight delay, compared to how it was, and sometimes it may go down 2 when I only wanted to go down one.

The cassette looks fine but I wouldn't be surprised if that needs replacing soon as well, if I'm honest!

Do you have a chain checker btw? You should be getting 2 chains per cassette and with waxing, could be 3+. How many thousand kms have you put through the drivetrain do you reckon?

I haven't, it's one of those things I keep saying I'll buy but never do. Since my last chain swap? Definitely on the higher end of things, maybe closer to 7000km. A lot of that was done indoors though, not sure if that makes much difference. Frequently cleaned and oiled but it's only the last few hundred miles I've noticed the sluggish changing.

If you are going down the waxing route you really need to start from a fresh chain and a very clean drivetrain. Basically take everything off and get it immaculate. With regards to waxing, its a bit of a faff at first but after that its super simple. I rotate 2 chains and use drip wax in between immersion waxes. The initial stripping of the chain is perhaps the hardest thing to get right. I ended up buying the silca stuff that you just dump the chain in and it does the job for you. I tried doing it manually a few times but it never came out perfectly clean and took a while to do.

Did you buy a specialist bit of kit or just using a slow cooker? Quite like the look of the Silca kit as well as this Cyclowax kit that has everything.

Or do I just stick with what I know for this bike but start thinking about waxing for the next one. Hmm.
 
I'll message to keep it from clogging thread.
Going to apologise as thought I'd replied - but can't see it now. Much of what you asked me is all down to Fit (which I've had multiples of from a local well regarded fitter - so really unnecessary for me specifically if you're spending time on it for me!) but others here may find the information useful & why certain things are done to improve a fit - so in my opinion keeping things in the thread here is a bit more useful, but also a bit more 'explainy' than doing a digital fit on me rather than face to face...

For me specifically I've always thought I had 'short legs for my height' (so I've got a long torso), much of my fit supports that (as does position on the bike - very minor saddle-bar drop). I've always been quite 'rocky' on the saddle and have done various bits of mobility/pilates/strengthening to try and even it out over the years - with very little success. I've pretty much gave up on trying to fix it - 'just one of those things'. So was not too surprised when a Fit flagged up the leg imbalance. I think I 'knew' without being told, if that makes sense? Matt (my fitter) explaining how riding a narrow saddle for my sit bones, on regular 172.5 cranks with the imbalance was causing me to move quite a bit and can/would cause sores. Then demonstrating it in the videos of the RETUL fit - pausing at various points of a side on shot (both sides), then using the system to show the ankle angle differences between the two sides.

So much of his fit recommendation/changes on new bike was changing to shorter cranks - to promote more ankle rotation, with a wider saddle for more stability. The only other thing was narrower bars to make me more aero. He was happy with my position & flexibility on the 54cm frame. I'd gone in fairly convinced I should be on a 52cm Tarmac due to the leg length and it being more aggressive a geometry compared to the Diverge I was riding, but seems not!

Websites show them as this: https://bikeinsights.com/compare?geometries=5fa5ad268b2b9d00174aae5a,608740a65e818400218b08fe,

So actually not that far apart - the -31mm stack different being probably the biggest (not a problem for me as brings me further over the top of the bike anyway - with good flexibility I hunker down more frequently making me more aero).

Gratuitous photo at pit lane at Albert Park GP track on a Melbourne Winter morning below.

Good to see you still lurking and thank for the picture! Mega bike & deal - well done, but even more so - great speeds & power. Strong stuff!

You're that good on the bike then that's also why the change to the S5 feels so good for you - it's a big modern step up from what you had before (although the Madone would have been no slouch), so you're reaping the benefits of that modern stiffness and aero frame upgrade (unlike the rest of us hunting for marginal ones on what we have!)

Happy to answer any questions but I just truly believe mechanical offers the better experience so I'm sticking with it...

Edit: Though in what could be positive news the solicitors believe our house we are trying to sell abroad should hopefully sell this side of Christmas. So if that's the case hopefully I'll be able to join the cool-bike-club by the Spring... One can hope!
Not sure what took you to that opinion, other than denial?! ;)

Good news on the house!

Have to admit I'm a Di2 convert after riding mechanical for many years (8), but it is a hard sell when costs are involved for new bikes/groupsets. It's an expense, which if you're trying to get a better bike/wheels for the money you can save some money by going mechanical to invest it in other things. Providing you can these days (getting harder to do!). But the performance you get, the reliability, the 'fit & forget' of it I'd recommend electronic. I wouldn't say going electronic has improved my riding that much, but it has certainly increased the enjoyment. The only reason I would encourage someone to go mechanical would be to save money and get a 'better' bike than they would have otherwise, but always with the advice to upgrade it at a later stage.

As soon as you're into the realms of looking at 'good' bikes (with less focus on saving money) then electronic all the way. Certainly with it now down to 12s 105 level on many manufacturers it's the only option with only the 'bottom end' bikes not being electronic. So the price divide is even bigger!

It was on my list with
Canyon endurace
Trek domane
Specialized Roubaix
BMC teammachine
Elves avari

Cheers
Great list, add the Cannondale Synapse into there too. You really can't go wrong with any of those but also consider if this is going to be a 'do everything' bike what tyres you'll be running and if you'll be also running full mudguards so get one with clearance/mounting points for them. Endurance you'll be riding 28mm at least, all modern frames should have clearance for guards with them, but if you're heading towards 32mm things can get tight very quickly for full/fitted guards.

Saw some bloke faffing with his earlier and just thought the benefit was far outweighed by the messing around. Rather just have a small saddle bag.

Hopefully new roadbike should turn up this week. Went for the giant tcr advanced pro with rival axs groupset in the end. Hopefully shouldn't be too much of a departure from my felt FR1 just with the benefit of the removal of untimely death if it rains mid ride and I have to break.
Posterior man satchels all the way! Screw The Rules! Maybe I'm a traditionalist but spending £12000 on a modern aero bike and the best aero wheels you can get, to then compromise it with the aero drag of a handlebar bag to 'look cool' rather than using pockets and a saddle bag. Idiots! ;)

Great news on the bike & good choice with the TCR, you'll love it!

Your other half still doing things with shoes? I've a pair of Fizik Powerstrap R5 in 'Coral' with a big scuff on the inside heel (bought them like it). I'm not going to wear them any more (too narrow for me - end up with sore little pinkys every time!) just wonder if getting a repair/coverup done on them is worth it to flog them.
 
@Roady

It's just odd to not test at the given crank length relative to your inseam and total height as a starting point and then perhaps going even shorter depending on mobility. Cranks too long and there is no correct saddle height as you're too low or too high. In other words, you can't fit someone on cranks too long. If something isn't correct, you'll get the imbalance as the compensation strategy will almost always favour a side. How this presents is very different for people. You get this anyway a lot of the time even setup ideally, that's human biomechanics. People seem to understand about bike size, as in, I'm smaller, so my bike is smaller, but they can't make the connection with cranks. It's part down to companies supplying the bikes.

It's why I ask about inseam. I don't even need to see you on a bike to know what your starting point would be as an ideal safe max length. What I can't tell you is if you would be better going even shorter. Lots of people, particularly on mid and small bikes are on cranks too long.
 
Cut off times seem quite generous which is nice
I think the problem here is the queue to get started. The timer starts from when they open the course, not when you cross the start line, which can be an hour after it's started... Apparently you want to be lining up at least an hour before start time if you want to get the most of the cut-ff time.
 
I think the problem here is the queue to get started. The timer starts from when they open the course, not when you cross the start line, which can be an hour after it's started... Apparently you want to be lining up at least an hour before start time if you want to get the most of the cut-ff time.

Ah never considered that.

Think i'd rather just set off an hour late though to avoid hanging around!
 
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