Road Cycling

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So that should be enough to remove and install the majority of the kit? If that's the case then it would be much cheaper to do it myself!

Though this still comes back to how do I route the cable. I'd like to assume that there would be enough room for the cable to go around the top of the BB but I wouldn't know without tearing it apart
Personally I would get the Shimano branded mineral oil. No idea if it makes a difference or not though.

I'd also get Wera Allen keys, just to help with potential rounding bolts due to low quality tools.

Fitting a new di2 groupset is fairly straightforward and good fun if you can take your time. Easier than servicing a used groupset.

When filling your brakes for the first time be careful tightening the hood bolts, they round super easy and just need a very light tighten.

Other tools you'll need
Hydraulic line cutter and tool to put barb and olive on. Get this from AliExpress or Amazon as you have above.
Grease for assembly
Potentially thread lock for bb, read guides.
BB removal tool
Chain splitter
I personally like the little T shaped torque wrench, as most bolts are around the 4-6nm.

The most informative videos I've found are by this guy. https://youtube.com/@freetocycle
 
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think I sorta realized why I can't get comfy on my current bike.. always feels off. - Been trying to get into biking but each ride breaks me.

I looked at my previous "comfy" bike geometry and its quite a long top tube compared to current yet sizing wise the current bike matches my height, problem is, my wing span is unusual, really long arms which is probably why I felt a lot better on a long TT bike. Never really thought about it until now.
I got fitted ages ago at Specialized and they recommended me a large frame and it was only when literally ten years later when I tried riding a 53 or a 55 for longer distances that I've been on the wrong frame size the whole time. It was giving me fatigue and back/shoulder pain that I thought was just par for the course.
 
@Junglist

Not seen it elsewhere, but weirdly as i woke up this morning i was also thinking you'd need

Crank Removal tool
Chain Whip
Cassette removal tool

We are all far too invested in his di2 upgrade. :p

In other news, I have ordered a 50/34 set of chainrings to replace my 52/36. I have accepted that I am a noodle and that trying to do any sort of easy ride around here with a 36-34 as my easiest gear is just awful. Pushing 300+ watts when trying to do a Z2 ride isn't idea so down I come.
 
@Junglist

Not seen it elsewhere, but weirdly as i woke up this morning i was also thinking you'd need

Crank Removal tool
Chain Whip
Cassette removal tool
Maybe some spanners too. Usually 15/16/17mm i think are the main ones


I've got those bits already just from when I bought new wheels and to change cassette on the turbo. I do have a range of tools, just none of the specific ones :cry:

edit: No, I do need a crank removal tool.

Fez said:
We are all far too invested in his di2 upgrade. :p

In other news, I have ordered a 50/34 set of chainrings to replace my 52/36. I have accepted that I am a noodle and that trying to do any sort of easy ride around here with a 36-34 as my easiest gear is just awful. Pushing 300+ watts when trying to do a Z2 ride isn't idea so down I come.

I think more than the cool noise of changing gear (and reliable gear changes!) I'm most excited about having a 34-34 climbing gear! 36-30 I just end up staring at my rear wheel really questioning if that's as low as it can go :p
 
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I mean I have so few it may as well be starting from scratch. But it's more about the key items I'll need as I think I've got the bare essentials to add parts to the frame. But it's things I wasn't aware of like removal of the BB with that weird questionable silver shaft and how to get one back in

I'm going to sort out the mortgage first (I say I. Our advisor) then I'll look to do this over the winter as a birthday treat to myself :D
 
I got fitted ages ago at Specialized and they recommended me a large frame and it was only when literally ten years later when I tried riding a 53 or a 55 for longer distances that I've been on the wrong frame size the whole time. It was giving me fatigue and back/shoulder pain that I thought was just par for the course.
that's interesting.. I got a new bike, 53.9 TT and this feels a lot better already and I still have some adjustments to make. I could increase reach on a smaller frame basically - longer stem/move saddle back etc if I wanted but for now I'll run the "default" config.

I still suffer with neck and upper trap pain but I think it's muscle in-balance from years of lifting heavy stuff at the gym. I get the same pain during other activities too.
 
I wrote a lot of this yesterday and didn't post it... Some of it has already been answered, will do a follow-up shortly...

Tools i would definitely go individual, i find a lot in my Lifeline tool kit that i don't need. The benefit though is a nice plastic moulded case for it all to sit in.
You tend to get better quality buying individual - scrimping on tools can mean you damage components. But also getting specific things you need, rather than paying for things you may never need...!

I knackered a chain while breaking the tool, rounded any number of hex heads, bent the chain whip and the cone spanners as soon as I used them on a PX toolkit very similar. I'm sure when I got mine it was barely £20. But a couple of things in there proved useful in future for occasional use on various other things (external BB spanner, crank remover & spoke tools) so not a total waste. Buying ok-quality specifics I needed for the things I broke, probably worked out at around the same price as the toolset...

Hex wrenches ended up with a Lifeline Hex Wrench set for £8.79. Not available any more, the Draper ones probably ok. T bars would be nice, but much can be said for a 'no frills' L wrench with a ball end... Just works!
Chain tool bought the Park Tool basic 'brute' one. Cost me £9.48. Would say the current price of £15 is worth it, mine is 9 years old and done probably 50+ chains.
Chain whip, ended up with Park Tool SR11. Crazy money for them now, wouldn't buy at that price. Heard good things and the neat idea of the Decathlon, would get one.

Most of those will easily reach 10 years old and regularly used. You get your moneys worth on things you'll use frequently!

Press Fit 86.5
Think that's just DUB isn't it?!

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So that should be enough to remove and install the majority of the kit? If that's the case then it would be much cheaper to do it myself!

Though this still comes back to how do I route the cable. I'd like to assume that there would be enough room for the cable to go around the top of the BB but I wouldn't know without tearing it apart
Should be enough. Check the hex bolts come small enough - fairly sure for the tops of the Shimano reservoirs you need a 2mm or 2.5mm - quite specific. Small size for limit screws on derailleurs too...

BB press... Hmm! They're an awkward thing - costs a lot to get a good one, but so easy to damage a cheap one, or the BB, or your frame regardless how much you spend.

I'd be tempted to get a different specific removal tool - I've generally always bought the specific park tools one for my BB/bearings. Cost £20-30 but worth it if you're doing it more than a couple of times. Then the BB press although I've got a Lifeline one which is ok, do wish I'd invested in a bigger chunkier one. For the £45 I paid it does feel cheap and it's not going to last. Have probably used it 15 times. But they're also expensive for what they are... A threaded bar with some nuts & washers. Very easy to put together, but also have to know what you're getting/doing if going that route. I'd be almost tempted to ask around clubmates to borrow one?!

As mentioned, get the specific Shimano oil. Just less to worry about. 100ml is enough for what you're doing. I used mine up doing a couple of bleeds and got myself the 1L. It's a massive amount and going to take me years to use! But that kit could be worth it too... The parts in there very useful and soon mount up if you're buying them separately. I ended up getting the little brass spacer thing and some hose stuff from Epic Bleed Solutions, very happy with it so easy to recommend, will use them again for stuff rather than the Shimano branded stuff, it feels same quality: https://epicbleedsolutions.com/collections/shimano
 
For a BB press (or anything bearing related) BearingProTools are brilliant. Their tools are extremely well made in the UK and are decently priced for the quality.
 
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They look decent quality to be fair.

Am I right in thinking I need both the press fit removal tool (the silver shaft thingy) and then a bearing press to put the new bottom bracket back in?
 

Great to see that one incident of a cyclist hitting a pedestrian has basically shut down any organised cycling in Richmond park completely but hundreds are killed on our roads every year and not a single **** is given.
 

Great to see that one incident of a cyclist hitting a pedestrian has basically shut down any organised cycling in Richmond park completely but hundreds are killed on our roads every year and not a single **** is given.

Mental, it's like shutting down every road rally type event just because a pedestrian was once killed in a hit and run in a non organised event.

Surely the route is closed off to pedestrians in Richmond Park and that should be enough to mitigate any safety concerns.
 
Mental, it's like shutting down every road rally type event just because a pedestrian was once killed in a hit and run in a non organised event.

Surely the route is closed off to pedestrians in Richmond Park and that should be enough to mitigate any safety concerns.

Its got nothing to do with safety concerns. Its got everything to do with the widespread dislike of cyclists. Anything anti-cyclist is a win in far too many peoples books.
 
I guess, i'm probably in the minority (especially in this thread) where i think there's probably a higher % of bad cyclists than bad motorists as an overall number of each, and can understand some of the annoyance. The difference being that bad motorists end up causing accidents whereas the bad cyclists (generally) only cause annoyance for others.

The above seems absolutely stupid though. Might as well ban the London Marathon because a runner once ran into a pedestrian knocking them over!
 
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