Should be fine with that Torque wrench. Just note that some things can require ~40Nm, but you should be ok just just do that by hand. I've never used my torque wrench on my bike. Although i do admit it's a bit foolish given i own one and could be over tightening things.
There's not many things need over 20nM, you're better making sure you have a quality/accurate one for the lower end stuff. That is generally the expensive carbon which is easily broken! Bars/stems/frames etc. The Wiggle/Lifeline M-Part and
Jobsworth ones (2-24nM) are good enough for the majority of things with enough range and well priced (£25-40). I've got a big one for something I did fitting stuff on smart trainers which needed 60nM, actually an Amazon Basics. I've used it more on the car... There's a
cheap Topeak bar one I use which isn't that accurate, I tend to use it on cleat bolts and only alloy things after I stripped a seat collar with it...
Have to admit I've never used a Torque on a cassette lockring, thru axle or bottom bracket... So 'Man tight' on the bigger things which are metal/alloy and need to be tight, 'finger tight' on stuff which just needs to be snug and you're using fairly regularly like a thru axle. Anything carbon, or small enough to strip threads/easily work loose use a torque, every time. They're usually expensive components, so worth the extra time.
Indexing gears is probably one of the trickiest elements and with DI2/AXS you don't even need to do that.
Yes you do... Certainly when building from scratch... Or need to check and be aware when changing wheels/freehubs/cassettes around!
I should be able to have the cable go down the seat tube and back up through this part here....
Though I expect i'm going to have to find a solution to block the holes back up as I doubt the DI2 connector would pass through the rubber? Or maybe a very careful cut with a blade
You'll likely find that rubber grommet comes out. It might have a split on the side so you can slide it over a cable, then push it into the frame. Just be aware before you try to yank it off, it may have a collar or some kind under it, so removes from below (which you'll only be able to do with your BB removed), likely just pulls out the top so make changing the cable easy, but it is a Canyon so might not be logical. At least there will be diagrams for it - your one above looks like it just pushes in but there could be a difference between the electronic & mechanical ones.
Di2 cables (certainly SD50) are made 'cable width' with the plugs being 'outer width' so they should fit through frame holes. SD300 is smaller, but you couldn't push it through that grommet without taking it out the frame first. Hopefully it just pushes out and has a split on it, so you can just wrap it around your cable and then push it back in. I'll take a picture of what I did with mine.
We are all far too invested in his di2 upgrade.
In other news, I have ordered a 50/34 set of chainrings to replace my 52/36. I have accepted that I am a noodle and that trying to do any sort of easy ride around here with a 36-34 as my easiest gear is just awful. Pushing 300+ watts when trying to do a Z2 ride isn't idea so down I come.
How worn are the 52/36 and any need to keep them? I might be interested...
edit: No, I do need a crank removal tool.
I've got several of the little crappy black plastic shimano ones. Wouldn't pay money for one, they 'cam out' when screwing in so should reach a certain torque (6-8nM?) if you go too far with your fingers. But as they're just plastic, once you've done that a few times they get worn enough that they'll also not grip enough to undo the damn thing when it's tight... I bought a metal version (again another component I don't torque, just as tight as I can!).
I always meant to get the park tools one, although quite an expense it's metal, has ears for easy grip with greasy fingers, as well as having a hex on it to tighten with a torque...
I'm going to sort out the mortgage first (I say I. Our advisor) then I'll look to do this over the winter as a birthday treat to myself
It's good to build up a tool 'shopping list' and work your way through items on it. When you're ordering other stuff, just bumping orders up to get free delivery... Or waiting for sales on stuff, etc etc.
Certainly lots of us here with the knowledge to help/advise... And again as I've said before - I'm not a million miles away!
I'll be genuinely impressed if you **** up the cable routing. The battery sits in the seatpost and 2 cables go from there to the FD/RD. Both take the only path possible. Its honestly super easy. I rebuilt an entire bike in an afternoon with 12 speed di2 and thats inc. the faff with bleeding disc brakes etc.
Yup, just wang the cables in.
Reminds me, fairly sure I've got a 1200mm one in my downtube when it only needed to be 800. Just shoved it in. Not even sure I fitted any of those black zip tie like things to stop it moving. Not heard enough of a rattle from it to remind me...!
My carbon frame not designed for electronic (2016 Diverge Comp) had no issue running any cables through it. Next week I'm off work and I do have my 'spare' new 12s Di2 groupset from the smashed bike so could swap it over... Hmm. Did mean to do new hydraulic hoses at the same time so may delay as not got new ones... Then if I'm doing that will switch the calipers over too... But they're flat mount and old frame is post mount so need to hunt down the adaptors which fit. It's never ending isn't it! Yeah, lets not do it next week - better to hassle the LBS to get my new bike and ride that! I need the miles...
Told some Zwift friends I'd do a
200km audax in a few weeks time and I've barely done over 100km the last few months... Certainly only once or twice since May and barely over 70km since I got injured!
@Martynt74 watch this space the next couple of weeks on how to do 'panic training' for an all day on the bike
